Tire size for commuting
#52
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I think the OP is leaning towards 28's which seems pretty sensible. I don't know what the typical hybrid has for rims but the couple I saw in the office today didn't look like they had much wider rims than what's on my road bike. If they are at all wider then I would say 23 is definitely too skinny and 25 isn't that much wider than a 23 so...
As for that I don't know if anybody was really recommending a 23 or 25. I think folks were mostly addressing what they viewed as misconceptions about tires that narrow.
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If you wind up putting a rear rack on the bike, you will really regret going smaller than 700x28
I suppose that would have made sense if I had bothered to read your post before it.
Egads.
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Sorry, I should have just edited my original post. I can see now how that would seem like an attack on 700x23's.
#57
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I had 32's, then moved to 28's, now I'm back to 32's. (I use studded 35's in the winter.) Wider tires can absorb bumps better and are less likely to get stuck in small cracks. Narrower tires will help you go faster. I think 32's are the best balance, but you really have to just try it to decide what works best for you.
I have had Schwalbe Marathon Pluses for a couple of years, and they are bomb proof. I have not had a puncture flat since I got them. The only flats were when I was careless switching between the Schwalbe's and the winter studded tires. If I were buying tires today, I'd probably go for 32 Marathon Supreme's, but those weren't available at the time.
I have had Schwalbe Marathon Pluses for a couple of years, and they are bomb proof. I have not had a puncture flat since I got them. The only flats were when I was careless switching between the Schwalbe's and the winter studded tires. If I were buying tires today, I'd probably go for 32 Marathon Supreme's, but those weren't available at the time.
#58
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In that case, would I notice any difference riding with 32's vs. 35's with a rack attached? It is starting to look like my potential mini-turbocharge upgrade (smaller tires) may completely roll over the road bike fund.
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Hello! I am a new user to the forums and fairly new to commuting via bike. I ride a 2007(I think) Trek 7500 Hybrid and am debating changing the tire size from the standard 700x35 to something thinner to get less rolling resistence (700x25 or 700x23 maybe?). Is this a good idea for a commute bike, or would it be better to keep the larger tires on? I don't have a rack on my bike yet, but this is something I may do for groceries and errands.
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Oh and if it makes you feel better, I was hauling my lickton cycles order home from work in one heavy pannier. I forgot to increase my PSI a bit and pinch flatted a half mile from home. Serves me right.
#63
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Another consideration, and sorry if it has already been mentioned. I find 26" tires a lot easier to change than 700's. If I'm on my way to work, I want it fixed fast.
Fortunately I don't get flats and I ride anywhere from 25's to currently some 1.5 city tires.
Studs in the winter.
Fortunately I don't get flats and I ride anywhere from 25's to currently some 1.5 city tires.
Studs in the winter.
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I have a 2007 Trek 7.2FX that came stock with 700x35 Bontrager Select Invert Hard Case tires rated at 80psi. When the rear tire wore out I replaced it with a 700x32 Bontrager Race Lite Hard Case 110psi tire. I noticed an apparent increase in cruising speed, but I could also feel the bumps slightly more running at the full pressure. Currently I'm running about 75-80psi in the front tire (still the original 700x35, almost 4000 miles on it with no flats) and I'm running about 100-105psi in the rear tire. This is working well for me. I think when it's time to get a new tire I'll get another 700x32 race lite hard case and see if that's still comfortable enough. If not I'll go back to an 80 or 90 psi tire for the front for the extra shock absorption.
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I have always been a skinny tire guy. I do a lot of urban riding on a fixy MTB with 1.25 slicks. My commuters are 700x28. But I just put huge 700x60 Schwalbe Big Apples on my 29er. Holy cow, what a ride. They are heavy as hell, but the rolling resistence seems reasonable. I am toying with the idea of going wider on everything now.
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FWIW I'm at about 155 lbs right now. When I started commuting/riding my bike everywhere last April I was over 200. I always made sure to keep the tires at max psi when I was heavier from what I heard on here about heavier riders/pinch flats. Recently I've gotten a bit lazier about keeping the tires pumped up, but when they drop down to about 70 front/90 rear I can definitely tell a difference (and I don't like it).
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You would notice a difference. The questions is whether you the slightly less-jarring ride is worth the slightly higher rolling resistance. Unfortunately, the only way to know is to try. Fortunately, either width will do just fine.
#68
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+1
The 'dillos are quite a bit heavier (nearly twice as) and ride like bricks...not sure if they are that much slower. Its a great tire.
I've been running the Continental Ultra Gatorskins (700X28) for a couple pf months and love them. They have taken quite a bit of abuse without a mark (or flat). My commute is mostly paved roads (typical city stuff)...with an industrial park section which seems to be paved with some strange aggregate of gravel/sand/sparkplugs/bolts/nails/glass.
The 'dillos are quite a bit heavier (nearly twice as) and ride like bricks...not sure if they are that much slower. Its a great tire.
I've been running the Continental Ultra Gatorskins (700X28) for a couple pf months and love them. They have taken quite a bit of abuse without a mark (or flat). My commute is mostly paved roads (typical city stuff)...with an industrial park section which seems to be paved with some strange aggregate of gravel/sand/sparkplugs/bolts/nails/glass.
#69
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Example: according to Bontrager's site,your tires weigh 500gr. If I remember right,I had the same tires on my old 7200 and they took like 80-85psi. They also have alot of tread. Now,Specialized All Condition Sports in 28 weigh 330gr,take 120psi,and basically have no real tread. So the lighter weight,greater psi,and smooth surface would make these tires much faster than what you have now. If however you went with some Specialized Infinitys in 32,they weigh 600gr,are treaded,and go to 100psi. These would be skinnier than what you have now,have a smoother tread,and take higher psi,but they are also heavier. So they may or may not be faster. You'd have to try them back to back with the Hardcases to see if the greater psi and smoother tread could overcome the increased weight.
Understand now? You can't just look at the tire's width,you have to look at all it's characteristics.
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#70
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I can't believe the advice columnist at freaking zipp.com fessed up that skinny high-pressure tires are only efficient on perfect surfaces.
https://www.zipp.com/Support/AskJosh/...4/Default.aspx
Of course to them, a fat low pressure tire probably is a 28 at 100 psi.
https://www.zipp.com/Support/AskJosh/...4/Default.aspx
Of course to them, a fat low pressure tire probably is a 28 at 100 psi.
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I have always been a skinny tire guy. I do a lot of urban riding on a fixy MTB with 1.25 slicks. My commuters are 700x28. But I just put huge 700x60 Schwalbe Big Apples on my 29er. Holy cow, what a ride. They are heavy as hell, but the rolling resistence seems reasonable. I am toying with the idea of going wider on everything now.
jim
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#72
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I ride one bike for just about everything, commuting, hauling stuff and day rides, roads and trails. I vary between narrow 28 and 32 mm. I prefer wider tyres in winter when I ride in the dark but the narrower ones feel a bit sharper for long day rides on the road.
Your hybrid rims probably limit you to 28mm. If you have 35, keep them for winter and get some 28mm for summer.
My current 28 are Schwalbe Marathon (not the Plus version) , they are generously sized for 28 and tough enough and unlike the Plus version are easy to remove.
Your hybrid rims probably limit you to 28mm. If you have 35, keep them for winter and get some 28mm for summer.
My current 28 are Schwalbe Marathon (not the Plus version) , they are generously sized for 28 and tough enough and unlike the Plus version are easy to remove.
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Sure - and keep in mind you can remove the rack itself in just a minute or two - it's only attached by four screws.
#74
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Depends on the tires. Air pressure,tread design,and casing weight all make a difference.
Example: according to Bontrager's site,your tires weigh 500gr. If I remember right,I had the same tires on my old 7200 and they took like 80-85psi. They also have alot of tread. Now,Specialized All Condition Sports in 28 weigh 330gr,take 120psi,and basically have no real tread. So the lighter weight,greater psi,and smooth surface would make these tires much faster than what you have now. If however you went with some Specialized Infinitys in 32,they weigh 600gr,are treaded,and go to 100psi. These would be skinnier than what you have now,have a smoother tread,and take higher psi,but they are also heavier. So they may or may not be faster. You'd have to try them back to back with the Hardcases to see if the greater psi and smoother tread could overcome the increased weight.
Understand now? You can't just look at the tire's width,you have to look at all it's characteristics.
Example: according to Bontrager's site,your tires weigh 500gr. If I remember right,I had the same tires on my old 7200 and they took like 80-85psi. They also have alot of tread. Now,Specialized All Condition Sports in 28 weigh 330gr,take 120psi,and basically have no real tread. So the lighter weight,greater psi,and smooth surface would make these tires much faster than what you have now. If however you went with some Specialized Infinitys in 32,they weigh 600gr,are treaded,and go to 100psi. These would be skinnier than what you have now,have a smoother tread,and take higher psi,but they are also heavier. So they may or may not be faster. You'd have to try them back to back with the Hardcases to see if the greater psi and smoother tread could overcome the increased weight.
Understand now? You can't just look at the tire's width,you have to look at all it's characteristics.
#75
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Really, only four screws? That isn't bad at all, contrary to what the bike store told me when I was looking at them (maybe they wanted me to pay for them to install one). They said there was around 70 parts and an hours worth of labor. I thought that sounded a bit off for such a simple device.