Cantilever Brake Suggestions?
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Cantilever Brake Suggestions?
I am looking to replace the Tektro Oryx cantis on my Cross Check. Does anyone have suggestions on a good cantilever brake for this application? Right now I am leaning towards the Shimano 550, but I'd love to know if anyone's found a better one.
I probably will not go with Avid Shortys - they are strong and I like their aesthetics, but I had them on a Kona a couple of years ago and I could never get them to stop squealing.
Let me know if you have any suggestions. Also I'm curious if I would get measurably better performance from using a straddle cable with a wide carrier instead of using a link wire set-up.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I probably will not go with Avid Shortys - they are strong and I like their aesthetics, but I had them on a Kona a couple of years ago and I could never get them to stop squealing.
Let me know if you have any suggestions. Also I'm curious if I would get measurably better performance from using a straddle cable with a wide carrier instead of using a link wire set-up.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
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Ouch, I was looking at the Oryx for my own cross build. Are they really that bad?
I've seen good things about the Tektro 720 cantis but they stick out the sides old school style. Rather cobbly to my senses.
Tuning the straddle cable to a flatter angle will help if you only need a little extra. And switching to Koolstop salmon pads also provides better bite for the same pressure.
I've seen good things about the Tektro 720 cantis but they stick out the sides old school style. Rather cobbly to my senses.
Tuning the straddle cable to a flatter angle will help if you only need a little extra. And switching to Koolstop salmon pads also provides better bite for the same pressure.
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Well they don't squeal at least. The return springs on them always seem either too tight or too loose which is why I'm looking to replace them. I am using the stock pads that came with them so maybe I should try some Koolstop pads before chaning out the cantilevers?
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I also could never get the Avid Shortys to stop squealing. I thought it was because I am a lousy mechanic. I am having good luck with Oryx's - very little squealing.
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My Avid Shortys didn't squeal with the stock pads, but since I replaced them with Koolstop (black MTB, not salmon) they do squeal when I brake really hard, but not terribly and often when I'm braking hard there's someone I wish would notice that I'm there anyway.
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I got a set of Shorty's set up nicely on my wife's bike, with no squealing, btu eventually they just broke. Some genius decided that the return spring only needed to be long enough to rest against a PLASTIC washer, rather than the whole metal peg. Great design decision there...
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I got a set of Shorty's set up nicely on my wife's bike, with no squealing, btu eventually they just broke. Some genius decided that the return spring only needed to be long enough to rest against a PLASTIC washer, rather than the whole metal peg. Great design decision there...
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Those are realllyyyy nice but man they are spendy.
My Avids--despite three different sets of pads-- would never stop squealing.
The end-all be-all of canti's are Paul's.
The end-all be-all of canti's are Paul's.
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My Avids--despite three different sets of pads-- would never stop squealing.
The end-all be-all of canti's are Paul's.
The end-all be-all of canti's are Paul's.
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The more I hear the more I am tempted to just stick with the Tektros. They are easy to set up and they don't squeal.
Also, are Cane Creek cantis the same as Tektros? They look almost identical:
Also, are Cane Creek cantis the same as Tektros? They look almost identical:
Last edited by taliesin; 08-04-08 at 09:41 PM.
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Brake squeal has everything to do with pad quality and pad positioning. Toeing in the pad slightly will eliminate the squeal.
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I'm still running the stock Oryx cantis on my Cross Check, and I'm going to replace them before the winter. They're OK, and that's coming from a guy who's stopping nearly 300 pounds tearing down a hill at 45mph. So that should be a pretty good endorsement of the Tektro Oryx right there.
I'm going with the Cane Crees SCX-5 (see pix above) because they are a similar arm shape (meaning I know there won't be clearance issues with racks/panniers/straddle-cables and fenders, etc.) The other reason is that the SCX-5 uses cartridge pads. Man am I tired of farting around with pad adjustment every time I need to change 'em out... or when they start to wear thin, but not thin enough to throw out, only thin enough to need adjustment. Ugh. I'll spend the extra $$ on replacing thinner cartridge pads more often for the set-it-and-forget-it convenience factor.
The Paul cantis are strong enough to crush rocks, but I've seen in this and other threads about how they're a pain in the behind to adjust properly.
I'm going with the Cane Crees SCX-5 (see pix above) because they are a similar arm shape (meaning I know there won't be clearance issues with racks/panniers/straddle-cables and fenders, etc.) The other reason is that the SCX-5 uses cartridge pads. Man am I tired of farting around with pad adjustment every time I need to change 'em out... or when they start to wear thin, but not thin enough to throw out, only thin enough to need adjustment. Ugh. I'll spend the extra $$ on replacing thinner cartridge pads more often for the set-it-and-forget-it convenience factor.
The Paul cantis are strong enough to crush rocks, but I've seen in this and other threads about how they're a pain in the behind to adjust properly.
Last edited by CliftonGK1; 08-04-08 at 02:10 PM. Reason: forgot to close a parenthesis
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Incorrect. I used to agree...but I found that using a brake shoe with the proper material, in addition to proper adjustment, quiets them down. I thought I'd never get the squeal out of the Shortys on the front of my Fuji...till my LBS wrench finally replaced my salmon kool-stops with some black shimano shoes.
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Probably because Cane Creek Makes the Tektros (or visa versa).
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Incorrect. I used to agree...but I found that using a brake shoe with the proper material, in addition to proper adjustment, quiets them down. I thought I'd never get the squeal out of the Shortys on the front of my Fuji...till my LBS wrench finally replaced my salmon kool-stops with some black shimano shoes.
I had had it with my oryxes but have since reached peace with them (and w/ k-s salmons at that, though I might consider their dual compound ones in the future).
What's this about cartridge pads being easier to adjust? I figured the 'cartridge' was just a metal backing.
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With the cartridge pads you can just slide a new pad into the cartridge and not have to fool with adjustment when you change pads. Initial set up is the same.
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Look for some old NOS or even used Shimano XT/XTR canti's on fleabay. They were super reliable, had a snappy feel, and should be easy to get for cheap as most ppl don't like/want that style of brake anymore.
Here is a XTR set that was just listed.
https://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-XTR-Cant...6.c0.m14.l1318
The Cheap Avid and Cane Creek/Tektro canti's for sale now are just that, cheap. If you can hold out for a bit, I would get some better quality Shimanos.
Here is a XTR set that was just listed.
https://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-XTR-Cant...6.c0.m14.l1318
The Cheap Avid and Cane Creek/Tektro canti's for sale now are just that, cheap. If you can hold out for a bit, I would get some better quality Shimanos.
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Incorrect. I used to agree...but I found that using a brake shoe with the proper material, in addition to proper adjustment, quiets them down. I thought I'd never get the squeal out of the Shortys on the front of my Fuji...till my LBS wrench finally replaced my salmon kool-stops with some black shimano shoes.
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I have some Avid Shorty 4s with the Koolstop Dual pads up there ^^^ and I have zero squeal issues. It took a bit of work to get the toe in set up right, but everything has worked beautifully since then.
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Not always. There is a complex interplay between pads, rims and brake mechanicals that can cause various degrees of squeal and chatter. Both pad material and rim surface are important. Even the properties of the frame and fork can be important. Setting up cantis is an art where all those elements must be work together. Sometimes no amount of toe-in can solve the problem and you have to change one of the other elements. What works for one set-up won't always work for another.
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I have the Tektro Oryx on my LHT with Kool Stop Salmon color pads and they work great even when loaded up. I haven't even thought about replacing them.