Convert your old mtb to 700c wheels
#1
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Convert your old mtb to 700c wheels
Mavic Caliper Adjusters
https://www.dirtragmag.com/blogarific...iper-adjusters
https://www.dirtragmag.com/blogarific...iper-adjusters
Posted: October 23rd, 2008 by Andrew
Do you own a 26-inch wheeled mountain bike that you ride more on the road than on the trails? Have you ever wanted to make that slow mountain bike faster on the street? Have you tried skinny tires, but people on their road bikes are still whizzing past you? By losing the small, sluggish 26 inch-wheels and installing a pair of light, nimble 700c wheels, you will be able to turn your mountain bike into a road-worthy machine.
It’s an easy job when you have a frame with disc brakes. All you need to do is pull out the old wheels, slide in those thin, fast 700’s, and your ready to roll. But what if your bike doesn’t have disc brake tabs, are you out of luck? No, that’s where Mavic’s caliper adjusters come to the rescue.
When you try to install 700c wheels in a 26 inch-wheeled mountain bike frame, the brake pads don’t line up with the rim, they hit just below it. The brake pads need to be a little higher in order for them to line up with the braking surface. This is where Mavic’s caliper adjusters will come in handy.
The caliper adjusters remind me of the old school brake boosters that were popular back in the nineties, but with a set of brake bosses welded to the adjusters to allow you to mount your brakes higher on the frame. This will bridge the gap and perfectly line up your brake pads with your new 700c wheels.
Installation is simple, just remove the brakes and bolt the caliper adjusters to the brake bosses on the frame using the supplied stainless hardware. Then bolt your brakes to the caliper adjusters. The next step is to install the new wheels.
Pay close attention here to avoid purchasing a wheelset that will not fit your bike. Essentially, don’t simply purchase a standard 700c road wheelset. Here is why. When it comes to buying a set of wheels, you need to be sure to get a pair of wheels that match the spacing of your frame. Mountain bikes have 100mm front-wheel spacing and 135mm rear-wheel spacing. Road bikes have 100mm front-wheel spacing and 130mm rear-wheel spacing. As you can see, the front wheel has the same spacing, but the road bike’s back wheel is 5mm narrower. So be sure to get a 135mm-spaced 700c back wheel.
Hybrid bikes as well as some touring and cross bikes use 135 mm spacing, so it won’t be hard to find a new 700c wheel. You may also pick up Mavic’s Speedcity wheelset, made specifically for this purpose. Once again, Mavic has another easy solution.
The last part to sort out is the tire size. If you plan on sporting your super tight Lycra to dominate the roads, you can put on the smallest tire your rim will allow. If you still crave a little dirt and prefer a little cyclocross action, you can fit a 32mm tire onto your sweet new rims. However, when you take the tire size up to 35 mm, you tend to pick up a few noisemakers (i.e. leaves, sticks, and stones) in the gap between the adjusters and your tire. Once you’ve slapped on your new tires and your cassette, go ahead and put your new wheels onto your old mountain bike frame. All thats left is a quick brake adjustment and you’re ready to roll.
I used to race my old, rigid mountain bike at cyclocross races, and after I switched to the larger wheels, I could really feel a big difference. I was glad I made the switch to 700’s. The caliper adjusters were a great way to transform my ride into a completely different machine. Whether it’s a great commuter or cyclocross bike you’re looking for, there are many options for that old 26 inch-wheeled mountain bike.
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Do you own a 26-inch wheeled mountain bike that you ride more on the road than on the trails? Have you ever wanted to make that slow mountain bike faster on the street? Have you tried skinny tires, but people on their road bikes are still whizzing past you? By losing the small, sluggish 26 inch-wheels and installing a pair of light, nimble 700c wheels, you will be able to turn your mountain bike into a road-worthy machine.
It’s an easy job when you have a frame with disc brakes. All you need to do is pull out the old wheels, slide in those thin, fast 700’s, and your ready to roll. But what if your bike doesn’t have disc brake tabs, are you out of luck? No, that’s where Mavic’s caliper adjusters come to the rescue.
When you try to install 700c wheels in a 26 inch-wheeled mountain bike frame, the brake pads don’t line up with the rim, they hit just below it. The brake pads need to be a little higher in order for them to line up with the braking surface. This is where Mavic’s caliper adjusters will come in handy.
The caliper adjusters remind me of the old school brake boosters that were popular back in the nineties, but with a set of brake bosses welded to the adjusters to allow you to mount your brakes higher on the frame. This will bridge the gap and perfectly line up your brake pads with your new 700c wheels.
Installation is simple, just remove the brakes and bolt the caliper adjusters to the brake bosses on the frame using the supplied stainless hardware. Then bolt your brakes to the caliper adjusters. The next step is to install the new wheels.
Pay close attention here to avoid purchasing a wheelset that will not fit your bike. Essentially, don’t simply purchase a standard 700c road wheelset. Here is why. When it comes to buying a set of wheels, you need to be sure to get a pair of wheels that match the spacing of your frame. Mountain bikes have 100mm front-wheel spacing and 135mm rear-wheel spacing. Road bikes have 100mm front-wheel spacing and 130mm rear-wheel spacing. As you can see, the front wheel has the same spacing, but the road bike’s back wheel is 5mm narrower. So be sure to get a 135mm-spaced 700c back wheel.
Hybrid bikes as well as some touring and cross bikes use 135 mm spacing, so it won’t be hard to find a new 700c wheel. You may also pick up Mavic’s Speedcity wheelset, made specifically for this purpose. Once again, Mavic has another easy solution.
The last part to sort out is the tire size. If you plan on sporting your super tight Lycra to dominate the roads, you can put on the smallest tire your rim will allow. If you still crave a little dirt and prefer a little cyclocross action, you can fit a 32mm tire onto your sweet new rims. However, when you take the tire size up to 35 mm, you tend to pick up a few noisemakers (i.e. leaves, sticks, and stones) in the gap between the adjusters and your tire. Once you’ve slapped on your new tires and your cassette, go ahead and put your new wheels onto your old mountain bike frame. All thats left is a quick brake adjustment and you’re ready to roll.
I used to race my old, rigid mountain bike at cyclocross races, and after I switched to the larger wheels, I could really feel a big difference. I was glad I made the switch to 700’s. The caliper adjusters were a great way to transform my ride into a completely different machine. Whether it’s a great commuter or cyclocross bike you’re looking for, there are many options for that old 26 inch-wheeled mountain bike.
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"By losing the small, sluggish 26 inch-wheels and installing a pair of light, nimble 700c wheels"
I guess I'm missing the point of how larger wheels help you go faster. I like larger wheels because it's easier to roll over crap, but I'm not seeing how a good 700C wheel will be a whole lot faster on a smooth road than a good 26" wheel.
Not to mention which, a lot of times there are frame/fork clearance problems as well. There's a reason manufacturers actually make different frames for 29ers.
I guess I'm missing the point of how larger wheels help you go faster. I like larger wheels because it's easier to roll over crap, but I'm not seeing how a good 700C wheel will be a whole lot faster on a smooth road than a good 26" wheel.
Not to mention which, a lot of times there are frame/fork clearance problems as well. There's a reason manufacturers actually make different frames for 29ers.
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"By losing the small, sluggish 26 inch-wheels and installing a pair of light, nimble 700c wheels"
I guess I'm missing the point of how larger wheels help you go faster. I like larger wheels because it's easier to roll over crap, but I'm not seeing how a good 700C wheel will be a whole lot faster on a smooth road than a good 26" wheel.
Not to mention which, a lot of times there are frame/fork clearance problems as well. There's a reason manufacturers actually make different frames for 29ers.
I guess I'm missing the point of how larger wheels help you go faster. I like larger wheels because it's easier to roll over crap, but I'm not seeing how a good 700C wheel will be a whole lot faster on a smooth road than a good 26" wheel.
Not to mention which, a lot of times there are frame/fork clearance problems as well. There's a reason manufacturers actually make different frames for 29ers.
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Most 700C wheels will fit in most mtn bike frames with tires to 38C or more. If you have disc brake mounts on your frame, you can use 700C disc wheels - several companies make wheelsets, but it's easy enough to build up a set of mtn bike hubs with some road rims. Personally, I used Hope Pro II hubs with Mavic Open Pro rims. This approach probably won't work if you are using actual mtn bike tires on the rims, but that's not the purpose of this.
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Great looking adapters. I have also seen some that keep your arms on the existing studs. You clamp adapters onto the slots in the V arms & then you mount your pads onto this adapter that moves the pad above the traditional mounting slot.
#6
always rides with luggage
Interesting, but what about toe strike?
Also disagree about 700c hardware magically being faster. Actually, for the same rim/spokes/tire size, 26" would actually have less rotating mass than the 700c, making for better acceleration. But I think we've been through all this before.
Also disagree about 700c hardware magically being faster. Actually, for the same rim/spokes/tire size, 26" would actually have less rotating mass than the 700c, making for better acceleration. But I think we've been through all this before.
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Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
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--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
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"By losing the small, sluggish 26 inch-wheels and installing a pair of light, nimble 700c wheels"
I guess I'm missing the point of how larger wheels help you go faster. I like larger wheels because it's easier to roll over crap, but I'm not seeing how a good 700C wheel will be a whole lot faster on a smooth road than a good 26" wheel.
Not to mention which, a lot of times there are frame/fork clearance problems as well. There's a reason manufacturers actually make different frames for 29ers.
I guess I'm missing the point of how larger wheels help you go faster. I like larger wheels because it's easier to roll over crap, but I'm not seeing how a good 700C wheel will be a whole lot faster on a smooth road than a good 26" wheel.
Not to mention which, a lot of times there are frame/fork clearance problems as well. There's a reason manufacturers actually make different frames for 29ers.
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Larger tires effectively change your gain ratio, so with the same gearing and same cadence you would go faster on 700c wheels. Of course it would require more effort to do so.
Thanks Sheldon! https://sheldonbrown.com/gain.html
Thanks Sheldon! https://sheldonbrown.com/gain.html
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Larger tires effectively change your gain ratio, so with the same gearing and same cadence you would go faster on 700c wheels. Of course it would require more effort to do so.
Thanks Sheldon! https://sheldonbrown.com/gain.html
Thanks Sheldon! https://sheldonbrown.com/gain.html
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Yeah you guys go ahead.
I reject the notion completely. I do not need another "solution" that could possibly prevent me from buying another bike.
I reject the notion completely. I do not need another "solution" that could possibly prevent me from buying another bike.
#11
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I'd like this idea if only for the fact that I'm 6'6" and small wheels on big frames look funky to me. When there are thick knobby tires on them it's not that bad, but with 1.25" tires on the 26" wheels it looks pretty dorky.
#12
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
I'll vouch for the disc brakes making a wheel swap stupidly simple. I bought a Cannondale Rush FS MTB with a regular fork -- that is, not a Lefty -- mainly because I discovered that I could toss on the 700x28 wheels from my Bad Boy. That turns the Rush into a fast street bike, with a choice of plush suspension or rigid efficiency enabled with just a turn of the lockout switches.
So, in my case, the "solution" gave me an excuse to buy another bike.
#13
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I built a disc "hybrid" back before there was such a thing. No such thing as 700c disc wheels other than custom at the time either. So I built my own wheelset and I've been using it on a Stumpjumper M4 for something like 7 or 8 years now. Cost was up there but the bike is amazing.
However the very next Spring what should come along? The first Kona Dr Dew with hydraulic disc brakes at about 1/2 my total price on the Stumpie...... I should have just stayed patient....
As for these conversions I have my doubts. Sure they'll work but I forsee some serious squeal issues thanks to the flexibility of the horseshoe and the leverage the pads will have. It would be far better if there was a stay bolt and spacer setup at the top of the fork and through the rear brake bridge to provide a 3 point mounting.
However the very next Spring what should come along? The first Kona Dr Dew with hydraulic disc brakes at about 1/2 my total price on the Stumpie...... I should have just stayed patient....
As for these conversions I have my doubts. Sure they'll work but I forsee some serious squeal issues thanks to the flexibility of the horseshoe and the leverage the pads will have. It would be far better if there was a stay bolt and spacer setup at the top of the fork and through the rear brake bridge to provide a 3 point mounting.
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Running open pros on XT centrelock hubs, generally happy with it.
Although the wheelset was built for commuting (and a certain mixed-medium race I do every year), I ended up doing some singletrack last week on them and things went better than expected.
Remember that running higher-volume tires on 700's may increase the BB height of your mountain bike noticeably, unless you can drop your suspension ride height.
Although the wheelset was built for commuting (and a certain mixed-medium race I do every year), I ended up doing some singletrack last week on them and things went better than expected.
Remember that running higher-volume tires on 700's may increase the BB height of your mountain bike noticeably, unless you can drop your suspension ride height.
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Arguing the merits of 622 wheels on 559 wheel frames is fine and good, but back to the OP:
I found Mavic Caliper Adjuster at this website. Note that it is ONE caliper, for ONE set of brakes. So you would have to buy two of them to deck out a bike front and rear.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.a...S¤cy=USD
I'm just not that excited about over-priced bike modification widgets.
Would you pay 46 DOLLARS for this?
I found Mavic Caliper Adjuster at this website. Note that it is ONE caliper, for ONE set of brakes. So you would have to buy two of them to deck out a bike front and rear.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.a...S¤cy=USD
I'm just not that excited about over-priced bike modification widgets.
Would you pay 46 DOLLARS for this?
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Been there, done that, without spending stacks of cash. Quick and dirty ghetto brake mod and I ran 633's (27"ers).
Looks like the tire rubs the fork crown, but even at max tire pressure there was like .47 millimeter clearance.
Only rode it less than 100 miles, so I can't speak definitively on the durability. It stopped the wheels quite handily!
Looks like the tire rubs the fork crown, but even at max tire pressure there was like .47 millimeter clearance.
Only rode it less than 100 miles, so I can't speak definitively on the durability. It stopped the wheels quite handily!