I'm slow, go around
Is Gates still based in Denver? They used to have a big plant there, and that might help explain things a little.
Carrboro Bike Coalition - putting the "bike" in "CARrboro" :)
2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014)
Non-Bike hardware: Arch Linux - openSUSE 13.2 / Mac OS 10.6 - openSUSE Tumbleweed - CyanogenMod 11
In any case, if you are not going to ride this bike on rocks, I would recommend you replace with slicks or semi-slicks. Eliminating knobby tire rolling resistance is the number one way to speed up a bike on hard surfaces, i.e. asphalt; or even smooth hardpack dirt trails.
brake levers, pedals, grips, saddle...If possible, get thee to a co-op! All these things should be available very cheaply used, and most anything that looks non-crappy will work fine for you. Exception, you'll probably want to buy new grips, but those will be under $10. And seats are very hit-and-miss, and particular to individuals. If you still have the seat you liked before, swap seats at least in the short term while you shop. You might have to go through a large number of seats before you find one that works for you.
Racks/fenders: Your bike has the interesting, but for this purpose unfortunate, design element of wishbone seatstays (with no rack mounts that I can see), and cantilever brakes. There are rack- and fender-mount screw-holes at the top of the dropouts, that's a start, but any rack you might want to clamp up top is going to have a hard time getting around the cantilever brake cable. Maybe you can find a rear rack that mounts onto dropout holes below, and cantilever brake bosses above (i.e. screw on top of your brake calipers). Other than that, I think you're stuck with seatpost racks, which IME are annoyingly difficult to keep stable, and don't keep bags out of your spokes. Fenders, similar issues. I can't tell if there is a mounting hole at the junction of the wishbone.
If it was me I'd replace the flat bars with risers, replace the crappy lever, and find some comfortable ergo grips. With fenders and a rack this bike will look great and should be a very capable urban assault vehicle tm
That series of Shimano lever is pretty solid... LX level STI's are very nice and you will need to match the number of speeds so it indexes properly and get the model that works with cantis as they have a different pull than v brake levers.
Thanks for your entire reply. With regards to the quote above - you can't see them in the picture, but on each side of the single tube that forks into two for the rear wheel is a hole. I'm no expert, but it looks pretty easy to me. Still, thanks for pointing stuff like this out. I have been away from bikes for a long time and don't know nearly as much as I wish I did.
I think fenders will work too. There is a hole in the vicinity of the...uh...uh, part of the frame that the pedals connect to each other through...sorry, don't know the correct names...that I think is for mounting a rear fender. I have two eyelets on each side in back and one on each side in front.
Somewhat of operation drop bar disc MTB, I've still got a few parts I'm waiting to ship, and I still need to finish paint but this is the basic form.
A Nashbar Mk. III (Ishiwata Steel!) frame I found and and then cobbled together as an about town bike.
^ you're tall! Nice bike though
I'm sure someone will chime in with a good recommendation for a tail light, but if your saddle bag has any kind of strap or hook going across the back of it, most of the relatively cheaper rectangle ones have a clip that will hook onto the strap.
I'd still keep the current one, but would try to find another one that has more lumens and will be brighter.
I'm slow, go around