Commuter Bicycle Pics
bill nyecycles
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Thanks!!
To answer questions: Nashbar cx fork, vuelta corsa hd wheels (great value, very sturdy I hear) and panaracer pasela tires to start with. I actually decided with a brooks Cambium based on the look of the gumwall tires (didn't match as well as I'd hoped with saddle) .. or maybe that was the other way around? lol. Anyway, so far its great! Very comfortable. I actually have the one with the cutout but its not seen in the picture.
To answer questions: Nashbar cx fork, vuelta corsa hd wheels (great value, very sturdy I hear) and panaracer pasela tires to start with. I actually decided with a brooks Cambium based on the look of the gumwall tires (didn't match as well as I'd hoped with saddle) .. or maybe that was the other way around? lol. Anyway, so far its great! Very comfortable. I actually have the one with the cutout but its not seen in the picture.
I've toyed with the idea of putting a carbon fork on my cross check - but I had the hospital foam green one, and that black would not look good with it.
I don't think anyway.
You think it'd be ok for touring?
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2012 Trek 2.1 Apex. SKS-Raceblade long fenders, imported from Memphis TN when I moved back to London A lot more rain here so had to get some fenders.
aka Tom Reingold
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You must be a fast rider, @MattMem.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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I don't post gloom and doom warnings on stuff that might happen, but this is a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK with a high likelihood of failure.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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WARNING the frame is too small for you. It wouldn't matter that much, but you've extended the fork well above the headset top nut, and the stem is ending above the headset bearing. The steerer isn't strong enough to be cantilevered like that, and more importantly you have the stem ending in the threaded area where the wall thickness is halved, with 24 stress risers per inch. With any extended use and stress you can expect the fork to snap at the bottom of the stem.
I don't post gloom and doom warnings on stuff that might happen, but this is a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK with a high likelihood of failure.
I don't post gloom and doom warnings on stuff that might happen, but this is a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK with a high likelihood of failure.
As far as frame size goes, this frame is pretty spot on, for me, in terms of effective top tube length and stand over height. I wouldn't be comfortable riding anything much bigger as I am a pretty short person. As far as the stem situation goes, my local bike shop assured me it would be all right. However, in light of what you are saying I will revisit the topic with them as soon as possible.
Thanks again.
Last edited by mrblue; 09-23-14 at 02:22 PM.
Fork and spoon operator
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I've been fiddling around with finite elements software for estimating material stresses recently-- I'm going to see if I can model this today, because I'm curious about about how much the stress is increased here. However, that's a steel fork with a steel steer tube, right? Steel deforms plastically so much before it fails, I think the fork would be noticeably deformed for quite a while before it failed. I wouldn't think you'd have to worry about it snapping without warning. Am I wrong about that?
WARNING the frame is too small for you. It wouldn't matter that much, but you've extended the fork well above the headset top nut, and the stem is ending above the headset bearing. The steerer isn't strong enough to be cantilevered like that, and more importantly you have the stem ending in the threaded area where the wall thickness is halved, with 24 stress risers per inch. With any extended use and stress you can expect the fork to snap at the bottom of the stem.
I don't post gloom and doom warnings on stuff that might happen, but this is a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK with a high likelihood of failure.
I don't post gloom and doom warnings on stuff that might happen, but this is a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK with a high likelihood of failure.
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WARNING the frame is too small for you. It wouldn't matter that much, but you've extended the fork well above the headset top nut, and the stem is ending above the headset bearing. The steerer isn't strong enough to be cantilevered like that, and more importantly you have the stem ending in the threaded area where the wall thickness is halved, with 24 stress risers per inch. With any extended use and stress you can expect the fork to snap at the bottom of the stem.
I don't post gloom and doom warnings on stuff that might happen, but this is a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK with a high likelihood of failure.
I don't post gloom and doom warnings on stuff that might happen, but this is a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK with a high likelihood of failure.
However, I just took the stem out to see how far down it goes. It is one reeeeaaaallly long stem! The stem actually extends, in addition to what is visible, 3/4 of the length of the head tube, which is as far as it will go. With the current set up, the stem is at its lowest possible point. I think it'll be ok since it pretty much fills the entire length of the head tube area, in the fork steer tube.
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I've been fiddling around with finite elements software for estimating material stresses recently-- I'm going to see if I can model this today, because I'm curious about about how much the stress is increased here. However, that's a steel fork with a steel steer tube, right? Steel deforms plastically so much before it fails, I think the fork would be noticeably deformed for quite a while before it failed. I wouldn't think you'd have to worry about it snapping without warning. Am I wrong about that?
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I've been fiddling around with finite elements software for estimating material stresses recently-- I'm going to see if I can model this today, because I'm curious about about how much the stress is increased here. However, that's a steel fork with a steel steer tube, right? Steel deforms plastically so much before it fails, I think the fork would be noticeably deformed for quite a while before it failed. I wouldn't think you'd have to worry about it snapping without warning. Am I wrong about that?
I might add that forks have been breaking below the headset for a long time if threaded beyond the stem depth. That's why it's been SOP for a for forks to be threaded less than 2" or so, while stems are inserted at least that far, ensuring that the stem ends below the last thread.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Thanks again for looking out! I really appreciate it.
However, I just took the stem out to see how far down it goes. It is one reeeeaaaallly long stem! The stem actually extends, in addition to what is visible, 3/4 of the length of the head tube, which is as far as it will go. With the current set up, the stem is at its lowest possible point. I think it'll be ok since it pretty much fills the entire length of the head tube area, in the fork steer tube.
However, I just took the stem out to see how far down it goes. It is one reeeeaaaallly long stem! The stem actually extends, in addition to what is visible, 3/4 of the length of the head tube, which is as far as it will go. With the current set up, the stem is at its lowest possible point. I think it'll be ok since it pretty much fills the entire length of the head tube area, in the fork steer tube.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I love pictures of bikes IN the house. I think that's where they belong. Not in a cold garage or shed. A shop is ok if there are other bikes so they can commune amongst themselves for a while.
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OK, as long as you have an extra long stem which extends below the headset and past the last thread, then you're fine. I wouldn't have posted at all, but eyeballing the photo and knowing standard quill stem length I thought the stem was ending above the headset. I see these combinations and the results too often to let it go.
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When you model, be sure to factor the thread depth and the fact that the stem ends at a thread. If you're curious you might run two models, one with threads and one without. And yes, steel steerers are moderately ductile, and would tend to bend slightly before breaking, but unfortunately there's no time gap and both will happen within a microsecond as a single event. There's no way the rider could ever see a warning sign of impending failure.
I might add that forks have been breaking below the headset for a long time if threaded beyond the stem depth. That's why it's been SOP for a for forks to be threaded less than 2" or so, while stems are inserted at least that far, ensuring that the stem ends below the last thread.
I might add that forks have been breaking below the headset for a long time if threaded beyond the stem depth. That's why it's been SOP for a for forks to be threaded less than 2" or so, while stems are inserted at least that far, ensuring that the stem ends below the last thread.
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Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
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I wonder about this because I ride larger bikes with tall headtubes. That means that when I bought a replacement fork for one, there is more like 3-4" of thread (if memory serves threading runs from 150-240 mm and I have a 200 mm headtube - something like that). That means I either need a super long stem like a Nitto Technomic that only has the exposed length of a much shorter stem, or I have a stem that ends up with the end over threads even though it's still in the middle of the head tube.
This was fine as long as enough was cut off, but they had a very high failure rate if not cut short enough that the stem extended beyond the last thread. It's unfortunate that the bike world has such a short institutional memory, and after 20+ years of threadless headsets, the experience of the prior generation is forgotten.
However, there's a sea change difference between the likelihood of failure when the fracture plane is well below the upper bearing vs. above.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Fork and spoon operator
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I'm still skeptical about the catastrophic failure of a steel steerer tube (maybe I'm just grumpy about being an hour into a calculation and it turns out no one wants to see it. I guess it's not the first time that's ever happened though). Look at this video of the material testing of a steel sample. It basically sustains the same enormous stress until it looks like laffy taffy!
Tensile Test - YouTube
Tensile Test - YouTube
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However, you've discovered the difference between theorists and technicians. The former use analysis to discover what should or could happen, and the latter make decisions based on the cumulative experience of what did happen in the past.
In any case, consider the issue as applied to a threaded tube. As the tube is flexed all the elongation is concentrated at the root of the thread. Consider how far it must elongate before a noticeable bend in the tube occurs. This is exactly why threaded axles break at the first thread beyond the cone, which is a more common event because bike makers know better that to design forks prone to snapping at a thread.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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This is my commuter, a 2012 Jamis Aurora. So far I've added Soma Sparrow bars and a Brooks Cambium C17 saddle. Next up: upgrade the pedals and swap that crate for baskets.
Fork and spoon operator
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Wow, that looks great like that! I really like the aurora, but I've never seen it with upright bars on. The crate looks pretty cool too.
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Thanks! They're only sort of upright bars--I have them flipped down, so they're a bit lower than the hoods on the drop bars that came with the bike (my grip is a bit lower than seat height). But they bring my grip a lot closer in. Fits my weird proportions great!
Freewheelin' Fred
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Here's my new bike.
It took me a while to get it set up, but I'm very happy with it now.
It took me a while to get it set up, but I'm very happy with it now.
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Freewheelin' Fred
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I like the red accents. I also have taken the red accent route with my LHT. SomaFab has nice red fenders.
I got my inspiration from the handlebar bag (which is actually a purse I found at REI). I liked the red stripe on it so when I came to add reflective tape, a seat bag, etc. I got them in red. The red B17 was good luck, I didn't even know they existed until about a month ago.
I don't know if I'll put fenders on this bike or not. I almost never ride in the rain anymore. If I do, I take a look into the ones from SomaFab.
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That is one slick looking bike. Awesome.