IGH + Full Chain Case + Flat = Need Cell Phone
#1
No one carries the DogBoy
Thread Starter
IGH + Full Chain Case + Flat = Need Cell Phone
I recently purchased a Breezer 8. I love the thing, but if I ever get a rear flat I think I'm SOL.
I have never had an IGH before, so I figured I needed to do it as practice before needing to do it on the road, plus, I wanted to put some winter tires on it, so I hauled my bike, the stand and everything into our dining room (no table for now) to change it out.
The front tire went fine. Unplug the wire from the dyno, unscrew bolts, remove tire. Almost as easy as a quick release, so time for fixing would be about the same.
Then we got to the rear wheel...First, you have to remove the chain-case. This is NOT an easy process. There are some main screws, and then minor screws that hold the front and back parts together. After this is done, the job gets pretty easy...shift the thing into first gear, pull the shift cable out of the stop, and then work the wire out of the slots, and the nutpretty much just comes out easy.
Putting the tire back on was a bit of a challenge too. I kept having issues about the degree to which the wheel was straight. I kept sighting the chain to see that it was happy, and then I clamped it down. Re-attaching the shift cable was easy, but then it was back to the blasted chain case. Ug. That thing took me a good 15 minutes to figure out.
So while it provides excellent protection for the chain against road grime, salt and other gunk, it sure does complicate the whole tire changing process. I've decided that if I actually get a flat on the road, I'm just going to call my wife and have her come get me and the bike with the van.
I have never had an IGH before, so I figured I needed to do it as practice before needing to do it on the road, plus, I wanted to put some winter tires on it, so I hauled my bike, the stand and everything into our dining room (no table for now) to change it out.
The front tire went fine. Unplug the wire from the dyno, unscrew bolts, remove tire. Almost as easy as a quick release, so time for fixing would be about the same.
Then we got to the rear wheel...First, you have to remove the chain-case. This is NOT an easy process. There are some main screws, and then minor screws that hold the front and back parts together. After this is done, the job gets pretty easy...shift the thing into first gear, pull the shift cable out of the stop, and then work the wire out of the slots, and the nutpretty much just comes out easy.
Putting the tire back on was a bit of a challenge too. I kept having issues about the degree to which the wheel was straight. I kept sighting the chain to see that it was happy, and then I clamped it down. Re-attaching the shift cable was easy, but then it was back to the blasted chain case. Ug. That thing took me a good 15 minutes to figure out.
So while it provides excellent protection for the chain against road grime, salt and other gunk, it sure does complicate the whole tire changing process. I've decided that if I actually get a flat on the road, I'm just going to call my wife and have her come get me and the bike with the van.
#3
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
After some practice this is not as hard a job as one would think... running a good flat resistant tyre is a good idea for any bike and especially so when tyre removal is such a pita.
#5
Fossil
Many times it is possible to patch a tube without removing the wheel. If you can locate the leak, lay the bike on its side and pry one bead off the rim enough to remove the leaking portion of the tube. I've done this many times with good results. It is especially useful for internally geared hubs and/or when a wrench is needed to remove the wheel.
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drill a second valve hole in your rim, insert 2 tubes, only pump up the tube on the outside, keep the inside tube unpumped. If you ever get a flat, pump up the 2nd tube, ride home, then fix things up.
#7
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Many times it is possible to patch a tube without removing the wheel. If you can locate the leak, lay the bike on its side and pry one bead off the rim enough to remove the leaking portion of the tube. I've done this many times with good results. It is especially useful for internally geared hubs and/or when a wrench is needed to remove the wheel.
I usually unhook one side of the tire. I pull out the tube & fill with enough air so I can find the leak. I then patch.
#8
aka: Mike J.
#9
No one carries the DogBoy
Thread Starter
Any recommendations for a good patch kit?
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I just use the little green box kit that the LBS sells for ~$2. Follow the directions in the box and you will be good to go.
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Many times it is possible to patch a tube without removing the wheel. If you can locate the leak, lay the bike on its side and pry one bead off the rim enough to remove the leaking portion of the tube. I've done this many times with good results. It is especially useful for internally geared hubs and/or when a wrench is needed to remove the wheel.
#13
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This sounds like it might be THE best idea ever. A true innovation in biking.
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Show me your setup.
Pics man ... pics.
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This works only if the sharp thing that caused the flat can be removed from the outside... otherwise you still have to pull part or more of the tire off the rim to remove the item. Hopefully it wouldn't dig right into the second tube once the first one flatted. I like the idea, though.
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Many times it is possible to patch a tube without removing the wheel. If you can locate the leak, lay the bike on its side and pry one bead off the rim enough to remove the leaking portion of the tube. I've done this many times with good results. It is especially useful for internally geared hubs and/or when a wrench is needed to remove the wheel.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#17
Senior Member
doesn't the new breezer 8 come with schwalbe puncture-resistant tires? or is that just on the uptown 8?
#18
Senior Member
How do you get the valve stem of the outer tube through the inner tube?
#19
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Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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Another vote for an indestructible tire, especially on the rear. Schwalbe, Continental, and Panaracer all make excellent durable city tires.
#21
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Yup, that's why I paid for an upgrade to Marathon Plus tires on my soon to arrive Jamis Commuter 3.0! I want to reduce the possibility of having to do roadside fixes on my way to work as much as possible.
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I've been investigating racks for the car, but the sheer weight of this thing makes the idea of carrying it kind of unlikely. It really needs its own towtruck.
#23
No one carries the DogBoy
Thread Starter
Yes, it came with those, but I want to ride over snow and ice, so I put some Nokian M&Gs on it. Also pretty decent in the flat resistance arena, but I know flats can and do happen, which is why I'm carrying my cell phone so I don't have to do a 3 mile walk with the bike.
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Many times it is possible to patch a tube without removing the wheel. If you can locate the leak, lay the bike on its side and pry one bead off the rim enough to remove the leaking portion of the tube. I've done this many times with good results. It is especially useful for internally geared hubs and/or when a wrench is needed to remove the wheel.