vja4Him

Please help me decide which bike to buy. I just sent in my tax returns today, so I know how much I have to work with. The Surly Cross Check is at the top of my list, but I can afford to spend more -- around $1,500-1,800, or perhaps a little more, not counting all the extras and upgrades.

What would be a comparable bike to the Cross Check, but perhaps a little lighter? Still able to carry front and rear racks/panniers, and pull a Bob Ibex once in awhile for short distances (shopping mostly).

I will be using the bike mostly for commuting, runnings errands and shopping. Plan on short camping trips (3-5 nights). Someday maybe a trip up to Yosemite ....

NormanF

The Salsa Casseroll... if I had the funds, that's the one I would buy today. Its the perfect all around can do bike. It will accept racks, fenders, panniers, and very fat tires as well as standard road tires so its versatile whether you want to do fast riding or all around commuting.

rumrunn6

Specialized Tricross? or Tricomp?

Wish I had your doe - here's my junk yard MTB commuter. It's fast and strong.

barturtle

I think we need to know what you ride now and what you like/dislike about it.

lil brown bat

Is that $1500-$1800 for the bike alone, or is it your total budget for bike plus any other gear you might want/need to get? It makes a difference -- depending on how you want to roll and what you may already have lying around, the "other gear" you need could be minimal and cheap, or it could be significant.

markhr

trek portland - https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...land/portland/

cannondale cross xr7 - https://www.cannondale.com/bikes/08/c...del-8XR7C.html

Brodie Ronin '09 - https://www.brodiebikes.com/2009/bikes/ronin.php
Brodie Ronin '08 - https://www.brodiebikes.com/2008/2008_bikes/ronin.php

rocky mountain solo cxd - https://www.bikes.com/main+en+01_102+...tml?BIKE=606#2

kona sutra - https://www.konaworld.com/08_sutra_w.htm
Kona Sutra - https://www.konaworld.com/09_sutra_en.cfm
Kona Dew Drop - https://www.konaworld.com/09_dewdrop_en.cfm

Orbea Diem Drop Disc (2009) - https://www.orbea.com/en-gb/productos...icicletas.aspx (see road bikes > fitness > diem drop disc)

focus cross disc - https://www.focusbikesuk.com/focuscyc...cross_disc.php
focus mares disc 2009 - https://www.focusbikesuk.com/focuscyc...mares_disc.php

Devinci Caribou2 (2009) - https://www.devinci.com/11628_an.html

Raleigh USA Sojourn (2009) - https://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/road/sojourn/

Rei Novara buzz road bike (2009) - https://www.rei.com/product/779985

rotwild rs1cx - https://www.rotwild.de/en/ (street bikes section)

Fixie Inc. Pureblood - https://www.cycles-for-heroes.com/bik...oss/pure-blood
fixie inc. pureblood - https://www.cycles-for-heroes.com/200...pureblood.html

Salsa la Cruz - https://www.salsacycles.com/laCruzComp08.html
Salsa Fargo - https://www.salsacycles.com/fargoComp09.html

Opus Sentiero - https://opusbike.com/site_route.php?lang=en (see 2009 bikes > road > cyclocross)

Genesis Croix de Fer - https://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/series/croix_de_fer

BikesDirect Motobecane Fantom Cross Outlaw - https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ane/outlaw.htm

Baron bicycles - https://baronbicycles.com/spec.htm

vja4Him

I can spend easily $1,500 to $1,800 for just the bike, and more if I really want to, maybe even $2,500.00 for just the bike. I'm figuring on spending around $500.00 extra for front/rear rack/panniers. And whatever I need to get any additional equipment. I'd like to get lightweight fenders, and some kind of handlebar extensions, allowing for varied positions. Also, I want to spend at least $500 for lightweight camping gear (tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad and stove).

vja4Him

I mostly ride my Townie, which is too long (4 inches too long, so won't fit on the bus rack), too heavy, and not as comfortable as my old mountain bike! It's difficult for me to ride around town any faster than about 11mph. Not very aerodynamic ....

I'm actually planning on riding my mountain bike more. Need to get the rear wheel fixed, and rack for front and rear, with good panniers.

ratell

If I was going to spend $2500 on a bike I'd buy a handbuilt bike.

https://www.cascadiabicycles.com/

https://www.sproutcycles.com/

https://www.ahearnecycles.com/

https://www.signalcycles.com/

https://vanillabicycles.com/ -
well it's a 5 year wait for a vanilla so maybe not, but you get the idea.

vja4Him

Does anyone have the Bianchi Vigorelli? I've been calling around to bikes shops in Stockton and Sacramento, and found City Bicycle Works. They recommended the Bianchi Vigorelli, Trek 520, or Bianche Volpe.

How does the Surly Cross Check compare with the above bicycles?

dtipton

If you're wanting to add racks and pull a trailer why the cross check and not the long haul trucker?

vja4Him

I only need to pull a Bob maybe once a month.

vja4Him

What are the differences between the Surly Cross Check and LHT?

BengeBoy 

There are three bikes in your price range I'd think about right now, in no particular order:

1. Salsa Casserroll, as mentioned

2. Jamis Aurora Elite (the 2009 model, not the 2008).

3. Buy a Bob Jackson frame from Bob Jackson Bicycles in the UK. With the decline in the value of the pound, you can get a Bob Jackson World Traveler "off the peg" frame delivered to the US for about $600. Then have it built up the way you want it.

I guess I'd add a fourth idea - getting a Thorn Touring Bike from the UK. Will be $1500-ish equipped nicely.

bugly64

Cross check only fits 700c in all sizes; the lht in 650c in the smaller sizes and 700c in the larger sizes. Cross check doesn't have front rack mounts on the fork. Of course, I would say "get the Cross check" since I have on and love it. I bought the frame and bought every piece just like I wanted it (105, and Ultegra mix) and saved tons. I am not over $1500 on this bike including the cost of labor.

lil brown bat

So what exactly are you buying, a bike to commute to work with, or a bike to go touring with? You don't need a tent and sleeping bags to go to work...I hope...

kuan

Save your money so you can buy stuff. It might cost more than you think. I got myself a LHT and probably spent over a thousand bucks on racks, fenders, panniers, saddlebags, handlebar bags, new tent, new sleeping pad, flashlights, saddle, pedals, Schwalbe Marathons Supremes.

vja4Him

I plan on camping several times a year. My long-term goal is to bike up to Yosemite.

bragi

I have the 2008 Surly LHT, and it's proven itself an excellent choice for commuting and for touring, and easily my favorite bike of all time. It's a bit on the heavy side, though; if you're into a fast, responsive bike, the LHT isn't your first choice. It's more like a 1950's Buick: big, comfy, solid, good components, great for long rides and beer runs, but not a bicycling sports car by any stretch of the imagination. It all depends on what you want.

Before I settled on the LHT, I also carefully tried out the Cross Check, the Bianchi Volpe, the Jamis Aurora, REI's touring bike, I forget what it's called, a used Rivendell Atlantis, and the Trek 520. I really liked the Cross Check, but I liked the Bianchi Volpe even better. If I wanted a lighter, zippier, less beefy bike than the LHT, but still good for commuting and light touring, I'd take a long look at the Volpe before I made my final purchase.

lil brown bat

And you want one bike to do it all? You're going to have to make some compromises, then, so better start by picking your poison: commuting daily on a bike that's better suited to touring, or touring on a less-than-ideal touring bike.

riddei

You can't come to the Inter-web to find the perfect bike for you. One person's perfect bike is an-other's imperfect bike. Bike fit will be the most important thing for you. Go to the local bike shops and ride a ton of bikes. You have a great list here. Most would say that the cross check is a very versatile bike. That Casseroll is another choice for an outstanding "do almost all" bike. Enjoy.

vja4Him

I think I'm pretty much sold on the XCheck! What upgrades would you recommend? I'm considering upgrading the wheels to at least 36 spokes. I'd like to have narrow tires, and the best tires, especially for puncture protection.

Should I just keep the bike otherwise stock, or upgrade any components? The bike shop I'll be dealing with is nearly 200 miles round trip, and so it won't be easy for me to get back there. I have to hire someone to take me to Sacramento. So I figure I might as well take care of everything I can while I'm at the shop.

What pedals should I get? I weigh about 204 pounds. What kind of seat? Also, I want a heavy-duty kickstand.

lil brown bat

You're not heavy enough to need special equipment or large-spoke-count wheels, and unless you've got some unusual conditions to deal with, I wouldn't recommend going to the trouble of puncture-resistant tires. I also don't see why you need to go 200 miles to buy a crosscheck, much less to buy additional gear. I think your best bet is to just buy the bike, ride it, and let experience dictate what (if any) upgrades you need.

riddei

I still recommend RIDING the bike before buying. Cross Checks have long top tubes. Some people have found that they are not comfortable for them. Any bike shop that patronizes QBP (the largest parts distributor in the US) can get you a Surly. Please ride the bike (and others) before making your decision!

PaulRivers

Around here, the stock advice for a strong durable wheelset is Mavic Open Pro's with an Ultegra Hub. Search around the forum and you'll find lots of people who talk about riding them for years and they never even need to be trued. You certainly do not need more than the standard number of spokes for your weight - 200 lbs is pretty average. I don't know for sure if you would need more spokes for the Bob Ibex trailer, but seeing as how it has it's own wheel for support I would really doubt it.

I haven't done it myself, but if you want to upgrade your wheels people keep suggesting either getting them handbuilt by an experienced wheelbuilder, or at least having them retensioned by an experienced wheelbuilder (if they're factory built).

The other guy must have been thinking of something different than I am when he wrote that he wouldn't go to the "trouble" of puncture resistant tires. They're totally the way to go, and generally the only difference between puncture resistant and non-puncture resistant is a somewhat higher price - a cost that's definitely worth it if you ask me.

Personally, I really like my Panaracer TServ Messenger tires for puncture resistant tires. Haven't had a flat on the outside of the tire in 2 years of riding (had a defective stem, a stem break because I used the skinny valve tire in a wide value tire wheel, and a weird hole on the inside of the tube, but no tire would have prevented any of those). I've also heard good things about the Continental GP4000s's and Continental Gatorskins.

There are more puncture resistant tires than the one I just mentioned, but then you start to get crappy ride quality in exchange. The Specialized Armadillo tires are reputed to be extremely puncture resistant, but have a crappy ride. Unless you're constantly getting flats I'd stay away.

As for pedals I can only suggest you get some "clipless" pedals and bike shoes if you're interested in getting places faster or easier. The ones with the small clip (mountain bike ones) let you walk around in the shoes off the bike without much trouble.

I'm afraid I don't have any particular advice for seats or kickstands. Seat are highly individual (what one person loves another person hates).

You might consider getting the rear derailler, cassette, and chain upgraded from Tiagra to 105. But it's not really a huge deal.

P.S. Actually, looking at a pic of the stock bike I would first replace the bar end shifters with integrated shifters if I could (integrated shifters are the ones where there's 2 levers on the brake and you push them sideways to shift). I know some people claim they love their bar end shifters, but I really really prefer to be able to shift without taking my hands off the handlebars, and I would never go back to shifters where you can't do that.

Another random thought is lighting. Do you ever bike in the dark? If you'd prefer to have a little extra weight on your wheel over having to replace batteries, modern dynamo generators are pretty awesome. You get the magnet built into the front wheel (inside the hub) and a good light and they put out way more light than the old ones used to (apparently, I'm waiting for mine to actually get there). Take a look at this page for pics of the amount of light these things put out now:
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp

I just ordered a Lumotec Cyo. It's not on that page unfortunately, but it's the upgraded replacement for the Lumotec IQ Fly displayed there. You can get a dynamo powered rear light to go with it, to.

And personally I like disc brakes, though I have no idea if the CrossCheck has the mounts for them. And if you're commuting in the winter an internal hub is nice, though if you're not I'd stick with the traditional derailleur... :-)

P.S.S. Like the other guy said, though, I'd still highly recommend riding the bike before you buy it. You can always upgrade the components later if you want, but if you frame doesn't fit you there's nothing you can do, and spending all that money to end up with a bike that's uncomfortable...well, that really sucks.