In my experience internal geared hubs do not click at all. MY N360 clicks, but that is because it is not geared and relies on a ratcheted freewheel like a traditional cassette setup. I have little to no experience on non-coaster brake rear hubs, though, so it may be different with a pure transmission with no brake built in.

- Andy

Both my SRAM iMotion 3 and 9 hubs made clicking sounds,as does the SA on my Brommie. Don't remember offhand if any of my Shimano hubs did.

My assumption is that a hub with pawls would click just like a freewheel or freehub with pawls would.

I do not remember my trek clicking, it had a 4 speed coaster hub.

- Andy

This is exaclty what I was after. Thanks very much, it's clear to me now.
I wonder why the hub clunks though when changing gears? Is that just what the Nexus sounds like?
Anyway cheers for the photo's.

OK, thanks.

My Nexus Redband was almost always quiet while shifting and so is my Afline. They both would complain on occasion though. I've also had the occasional ghost shift, - sometimes because of a shifter maladjustment but it's happened when everything appears to be adjusted fine.

My Nexus 7 makes ticking noises like a clock while pedaling, but only in certain gears. If I'm riding next to a hard surface that the sound will bounce off (parked cars, bridge structures) it's very pronounced.

Rode a CaBi today;the Nexus 3 ticked in 2nd and 3rd,but was silent in 1st. Nowhere near as loud as my i3 or SA.

If you use a front brake in the wet, or on damp grass, or greasy roads, can turn your bike into a sleigh, ie rim locked up, no breaking. Rear drum or roller work in the wet, and even if rear wheel locks up you still don't lose steering. Release the wheel and gently bring it back on. A locked up front wheel mean you are off the bike. The whole front brake to stop logic is only applicable in dry conditions.

You quoted my post to respond to something completely unrelated to what I actually wrote. It has a certain amount of logic to use both a front and rear drum brake - you lose braking power, but you gain reduced brake maintenance. And reduced braking power means you need to apply the brake sooner, yeah, but you can arguably just brake sooner. I have an older car with twice the stopping distance of my newer car - I didn't die when driving it, you gave people more room, start pushing on the brakes sooner, etc.

But I see no point whatsoever in having one non-drum brake on the front and a drum brake on the back - your front brake means you still have brake maintenance work, and now your rear brake has even less stopping power. You gain neither maintenance advantages, or increase stopping power, it seems like an awkward combination with more hassle and little benefit.

My Nexus 7 is quite loud. There is also a cyclical thunk I can feel which each revolution, especially in 3 and 5.

That's what happens with my Raleigh DL-1. Rod brakes and steel rims, reduced maintenance but brakes almost nonexistent in the rain. But if you compensate for it by riding slowly and carefully, at a safe distance from everything, I don't think it's dangerous. You adjust your riding style to your braking power, that's all.

Someone needs to learn how to properly use their brakes. I've twice gotten air under my rear tire by having to panic brake going down a steep hill in the rain. Stopped both times,no issues. I rode a very hilly route through Snowpocalypse and Snowmageddon with basically only a front brake because the rear pads were shot;again,no stopping issues. If you can't properly modulate your front brake on downhills,wet roads,and snow,then you either need to practice or park the bike.

If what you're saying is true,why do MTB's bother with a front brake?

You are in a 'Commuting' thread.
My point is simple. A coaster brake works in the wet. Regardless of whether you have a drum or rim brake on the front, if it is raining, and/or you are on grass, and/or going downhill( I am not mountain biking - I am commuting on road tyres, possibly taking a short-cut across a school playing field) and you rely on your front brakes the front wheel will lock up and slide. So you need a rear coaster brake. Hands up all those in favour of the coaster brake over any other brake?

The ghost shift thing has been the biggest frustration with mine - same as you, even when everything seems perfectly lined up.

Yep. Those panic stops I mentioned above both happened while commuting.

No they don't. Had the rear step out on me going downhill in the rain with a coaster. Never had that happen with a hand brake. If you're somewhere flat,riding at a sedate pace,then a coaster is fine. But at speed or down hills,they just can't be modulated as well as a hand brake. Also note: having a rear brake only reduces your braking ability by 70%. Do some Google searches. Plenty of tests done with motorcycles regarding using the front,rear,and both brakes. If you're going to be commuting in traffic,you really need brakes on both ends for safety. And you need to learn to use your front brake properly. I've never had the issues you talk about after over 40yrs on bikes and 35yrs on motorcycles. I have no issues riding on wet roads,grass,or snow. I've even ridden in freezing rain with studded tires. I commute no matter what the weather.

Here,argue with the master:
http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html

The Nexus 7 on my Moulten is noisier than the Alfine 8 on my wife's Breezer when it is coasting... other than that it has been pretty flawless and the evenly spaced steps make for nicer shifting.

The occasional ticking one hears in an IGH is the hub shell over-running the pawls, usually at higher speeds / gearing and outside of the direct drive ratio.

. If you're going to be commuting in traffic,you really need brakes on both ends for safety. And you need to learn to use your front brake properly. I've never had the issues you talk about after over 40yrs on bikes and 35yrs on motorcycles. I have no issues riding on wet roads,grass,or snow. I've even ridden in freezing rain with studded tires. I commute no matter what the weather.
[/QUOTE]

Some people can write and paint with their feet. Some people can't.

Some people can brake with their feet. Some people can't.

It's a burden having such a skill.

Ego quieti se

You are arguing with the Master!

Not to be off topic (if indeed i am), but i came back to report that my N360 no longer clicks as it once did, and is nearly silent. I am guessing this is due to the thing finally wearing in after a few months of use.

As for reflecting off of nearby surfaces, it's amazing how loud some drive systems are when the crank is not moving, and you really only realize when you ride near a tall curb etc.

My old nexus 4 speed did clunk when shifting, however it was also in heavy duty everyday use for 9 years. Newer geared hub bikes I've ridden seem to shift very quietly (no noise from hub), but i am sure it's different between different hub manufacturers

- Andy

Yeah,ok. I'm not the one having problems braking in wet grass.:rolleyes:

Couldn't find any articles espousing the use of just a rear brake?

Yeah see,first,quoting Latin doesn't make you smart. Second,quoting improper Latin can actually have the opposite effect. Google is curious what you were trying to say.

Still arguing with the Master...