diesel_dad

I bought a used Brodie Ocho a few months back for a good price. I added a rack and fenders -- commuted for a few weeks. I could not get used to straight bars for any length of time.

I ordered a Jtek shifter based on good experiences with a couple of Shiftmates with the thought of converting to moustache bars. My local LBS owner let me test ride his bike with moustache bars -- did not like them at all.

So I ordered Cane Creek Drop V levers and FSA Omega shallow drop handlebars and waited.

Last week, I took the bike in and got it all installed. Here are a few pics of the new cockpit:







The Jtek shifter is smooth and has a nice positive shifting action. A real winner.

I still need to find a high rise stem because the headtube on the frame is a little short for my tastes. The bars are about 3 inches below the seat with no steerer showing, so I need a high rise stem.

I also added my Brooks B-17 Imperial black saddle and a Truvativ seatpost.

The handlebars are a real winner for commuter use. The brake levers and mechanical discs work great. I need to get used to a bar-end shifter but for an IGH with only 8 choices it seems workable.

I can't wait to put it through the paces next week, but it looks like a solid commuter setup.

Now all I really need is to save up for a Steelwool Tweed frame and I'll have the ultimate commuter. The Brodie Ocho cost less than the sum of the parts, so I am not too attached to it. But we will see.

Sawtooth

Sounds Great,
Pics?

diesel_dad

Too dark right now -- but tomorrow for sure.

gord

What is the clearance like on the rear wheel with fenders? Can you remove it easily if you got a flat? I'm in the market for the commuter with an IGH. Like you, I like the idea of the Steelwool Tweed with the EBB so fenders and tire repair aren't an issue.

Barrettscv 

Consider this stem: https://store.somafab.com/sosfsthiri.html

Michael

diesel_dad

Removing the rear wheel is painful. You need a 15mm wrench for the axle nuts and then you need to detach the cable from the hub. The dropouts are vertical, so removed the wheel is easy enough when you get to that point. The Civia website has a pdf with good instructions for removing an Alfine hub.

bkbrouwer

Where did you get the cable barrel adjuster for your jtek shifter?

Cue

Those are standard barrel adjusters from Jagwire.

MichaelW

Do you need to cut down the bar-end to stop the shifter tangling with stuff or getting damaged?

diesel_dad

So far, the bar-end shifter has not gotten in the way of anything but it is pointier that a Shimano bar-con. If it was smaller, it would be too hard to reach.

The only thing I am not too keen on so far is the cable routing for the shifter. I wish they'd routed the cable under the tape all the way to the stem but I guess that would be easy to change. The barrel adjuster does just what one would expect it works well for any setup that does not have a braze-on adjuster.

I rode it to work today at 5 degrees celsius in a pouring rain and it hung together really well.

BikEthan

That's pretty standard routing for a barcon. I think you'll likely find that your shifting will get sticky if you route the cable housing to the stem and then back down to the frame stops. Also where are you going to run the housing past the brake lever?