My Arms Are F***ing Killin me...
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My Arms Are F***ing Killin me...
Hey i'm a newbie rider just got a single speed bike i bought used for 120 bux... the frame is heavy... but the bike is solid... anyway the bike rolls smooth(to me at least) it's not hard to ride at all but i find myself putting alot of weight on my forearms... and there burnin' boys and girls yumm! anyway... i just wanted to know if i need to raise the handle bars or the seat... i'm 5'8 and the frame feels really comfortable just my arms... so is this something i can fix or is it just strain from riding?
#2
Mirror slap survivor
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 1,297
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Surly Pacer, Access MTB, Ibex Corrida, one day a Simple City
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You need to get your bars UP. It's not going to look hipster messenger cool, but raise the bars.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 639
Bikes: Bottecchia CF frame and fork, Ultegra 6603 crank and FD, DuraAce RD, Easton Vista wheels, Brooks B-17 saddle, Shimano 105 brakes, Michelin Pro2 Race tires
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Also try moving your seat back. You need to move your center of gravity so that you put less weight on the bars. It's a basic bike fit problem. You should be able to ride with almost no weight on the bars when everything is just right.
#4
Non-Spandex Commuter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 1,025
Bikes: Trek Soho S
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#5
Peripheral Visionary
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Jax, FL
Posts: 1,157
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
https://www.ridefixedgear.com/howto/c...bars-bullhorns
Last edited by spock; 03-26-09 at 06:44 AM.
#6
20+mph Commuter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Greenville. SC USA
Posts: 7,512
Bikes: Surly LHT, Surly Lowside, a folding bike, and a beater.
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1430 Post(s)
Liked 330 Times
in
218 Posts
Hey i'm a newbie rider just got a single speed bike i bought used for 120 bux... the frame is heavy... but the bike is solid... anyway the bike rolls smooth(to me at least) it's not hard to ride at all but i find myself putting alot of weight on my forearms... and there burnin' boys and girls yumm! anyway... i just wanted to know if i need to raise the handle bars or the seat... i'm 5'8 and the frame feels really comfortable just my arms... so is this something i can fix or is it just strain from riding?
Then, like any new physical activity, expect some discomfort at first. And remember that racers who set up their bikes for speed are generally not all that comfortable anyway. If you want comfort in the long run (like on a bike tour vacation), yes, raise the bars - but check stem length too!
#8
Freewheelin' Fred
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 742
Bikes: Surly Cross Check
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
... Also, your stem may be too long. A rule of thumb - put your elbow against the nose of the saddle and extend your fingers toward the bars. At least one finger should come close to touching the top of the handlebar. In other words, the distance from the nose of the saddle to the top of the bars should be equal to forearm+hand.
#9
long time visiter
Most people who start biking after a long hiatus think that there legs will be in the most pain, however it's usually the arms/hands and sometimes the stomach muscles that feel it the most. It might pay to have a professional fitting for your bike. As others have stated, a seat adjustment might help. However you should expect some mild soreness for a while until your muscles adjust to biking. However if it extends beyond a couple of weeks, then try some adjustments.
#10
Didn't make it
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Weymouth, Mass.
Posts: 931
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Every one is right. Have some one fit you or pay to get fitted.
Cheaper than a doctor bill. I have the long torso that I adjust
by raising the stem. That after an lbs fitting on all my bikes.
Cheaper than a doctor bill. I have the long torso that I adjust
by raising the stem. That after an lbs fitting on all my bikes.
#12
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Delaware shore
Posts: 13,557
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Liked 2,171 Times
in
1,462 Posts
Before you do anything, check your saddle position to be sure the nose isn't pointed down. The saddle should be level (or close to it). The most common reason new riders feel soreness in arms, hands and wrists is too much weight is held with your arms. The saddle should keep you balanced on the bike so you aren't using your arms to hold your body from going forward.
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
thanx for the advice, my arms are sick sore right now though so i might hold off on riding(long Distance) until tommorow or until they get a little better i will however make adjustments to see what works thanks for all your help!
#14
Female Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 915
Bikes: Citizen Tokyo (Silver), Schwinn Collegiate (1980's)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Raise the handlebars and make sure the nose of your seat is level, not pointing down.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 117
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times
in
1,417 Posts
It wouldn't hurt to work on your core strength: situps, crunches, superman raises, pushups.
#17
Spinning @ 33 RPM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 747
Bikes: '89 Fuji Saratoga, '97 Schwinn Mesa SS, '07 Felt F1X, '10 Transition TransAM, '11 Soma Analog SS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
A rule of thumb - put your elbow against the nose of the saddle and extend your fingers toward the bars. At least one finger should come close to touching the top of the handlebar. In other words, the distance from the nose of the saddle to the top of the bars should be equal to forearm+hand.
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
i'm pretty sure the nose on my seat is pointing down, i'm going to try to get it level and lift the bars up a bit, thanks again for all the help.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 334
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Good luck!
#20
it's easy if you let it.
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: indoors and out.
Posts: 4,124
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
A rule of thumb - put your elbow against the nose of the saddle and extend your fingers toward the bars. At least one finger should come close to touching the top of the handlebar. In other words, the distance from the nose of the saddle to the top of the bars should be equal to forearm+hand.
#21
Dances With Cars
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 10,527
Bikes: TBL Onyx Pro(ss converted), Pake SS (starting to look kinda pimped)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
But what if the seat does need to come forward a bit? How does one tell? Hmmm I think I need a shorter stem.... I'm of the bar over the hub school-of-thought. I know KOPS is an old model but it's what I know, despite it seemingly being impossible to fit sometimes... neat tip. Joey, not just a hornet nest stirrer-er.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 639
Bikes: Bottecchia CF frame and fork, Ultegra 6603 crank and FD, DuraAce RD, Easton Vista wheels, Brooks B-17 saddle, Shimano 105 brakes, Michelin Pro2 Race tires
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm a firm believer in getting the saddle position correct first, both height and setback. Level the seat, or slightly pointed up with a Brooks. Then you can adjust the stem length to get the bar in the correct position. That's all assuming you start with the correct frame size.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: UT
Posts: 398
Bikes: Ibex Xray
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
But what if the seat does need to come forward a bit? How does one tell? Hmmm I think I need a shorter stem.... I'm of the bar over the hub school-of-thought. I know KOPS is an old model but it's what I know, despite it seemingly being impossible to fit sometimes... neat tip. Joey, not just a hornet nest stirrer-er.