Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Commuting
Reload this Page >

A little help?

Notices
Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

A little help?

Old 08-15-09, 10:03 AM
  #1  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
A little help?

Hi all, I'm new to these forums and to the biking world in general.

In September, I will be moving from Maryland to Pennsylvania (Philadelphia specifically) for college (Drexel) and I'm looking for a bike mainly commute around campus, to and from a local job near the city and for fitness. I need a bike that's fast and durable and can last me at least 2-3 years. Something that can handle the construction, rain (and maybe snow), a curb jump and some of the uneven roads. I also need something that can handle my body type at the moment (5'5 1/2 & 212lbs)

The price however, is going to probably be an issue. I only have $275 max (this includes tires, lights, breaks ect.) to spend. I'm aware that isn't a lot of money and I will most likely have to go the used route (which is fine). For now, after I choose a used bike, I would like to upgrade the most necessary parts and add other things later when I have more money. I've only really owned the bikes brought at Target so I'm unsure of what to pick. I was looking on ebay and I saw this. Would that be something in the realm of what I'm looking for?

If anyone could make any recommendations it would be greatly appreciated.
neopolygraphics is offline  
Old 08-15-09, 10:24 AM
  #2  
Female Member
 
KitN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 915

Bikes: Citizen Tokyo (Silver), Schwinn Collegiate (1980's)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You should definitely check out your local Craigslist. You can also check your local flea market and yard sales.

Since you're going to be commuting to/from/around collage, you definitely don't want to spend a lot of money on a bike. The chances of it getting stolen, especially if it's new, flashy and/or epensive is very, very high.

So ride a solid, cheap bike or "uglify" a nice bike and no matter what you choose, you MUST get good locks! Get a solid u-lock like a Kryptonite Evloution Mini and/or a good chain like a Kryptonite NY series. These locks separately will run you between $30 and $100 so set aside some of that $275 you have saved for locks.

(If you can, take the bike indoors with you. And try not to leave it on the street overnight.)

Do a search on the forums and you will pull out quite a few people in your same situation. It's worth the read. Good luck.
KitN is offline  
Old 08-15-09, 11:32 AM
  #3  
Thunder Whisperer
 
no1mad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NE OK
Posts: 8,847

Bikes: '06 Kona Smoke

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 275 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 2 Posts
The one on Ebay says that is not returnable. That would be a deal breaker for me.

You might be better served to wait until you get to PA to find a bike. See if there any bike co-ops near where you will be. You might ask about them in the Regional subforums (web searches don't always return accurate/up to date info).
__________________
Community guidelines
no1mad is offline  
Old 08-16-09, 03:13 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Find out what size you need, bikes are measured in inches and/or cm of the seat-tube length.
You will need sufficient tyre clearance, threaded eyelets to take a rear luggage rack and preferable, eyelets for front and rear fenders.

You could use a hybrid or MTB style bike. Road racing bikes dont have the clearance for wide tyres. Touring bikes are good but generally more expensive.

The best bikes in your price range are probably used bikes that were quality, mid-range when new and are not too worn out. It really doesn't matter if the frame is made from aluminium or steel, or if the wheel size is 26" or 700c.
Don't upgrade components unless you really need to, eg if the chain or brake blocks are worn out. The only exception are tyres. Quality, kevlar-protected tyres will reduce the rate of punctures and keep you on time for class.
Budget for lock, helmet, luggage, fenders, simple repair kit.
MichaelW is offline  
Old 08-16-09, 08:19 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
bluegoatwoods's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
I'll go at this from a somewhat different angle:

The first thing you want to do is prepare yourself (if you haven't already) to be your own mechanic. If you rely on others, then you'll have too much downtime. That is, unless your bike is one of the very best. In which case it'll get stolen. Even if not, it'll still need some tinkering.

So start with a tool kit. Metric wrenches from about 8mm through 15mm. Allen wrenches from about 3 through 6 mm and a phillips head screwdriver. You'll need more tools, but these will give you a good start.

Also consider your cargo carrying needs. Probably the best way to do this would be $20.00 basic racks. The rear is easy. There's probably cheap front racks available, too. Failing this, you could make a rear fit up there. I've done it. With a few bungee cords you can fit your books, rain gear, tool kit, etc on.

After that, it hardly matters at all what bike you buy. You could do just fine with a $70.00 wal-mart bike. Those wheels won't last long, but you could squeeze a couple of years out of them with care. After that spending another $80 to $100 for better wheels that will carry you far into the future will be perfectly worthwhile. The very cheapest bikes likely will need a bit of adjustment to be comfortable for you. Maybe new handlebars. They're cheap.

I think that following this path will get you a comfortable, reliable, utilitarian bike within your budget. You'll likely have a bit left over as well.

Good luck.
bluegoatwoods is offline  
Old 08-16-09, 03:44 PM
  #6  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank you guys and girls for all the help. I'll definitely take all of this into account.
neopolygraphics is offline  
Old 08-16-09, 04:38 PM
  #7  
member. heh.
 
lambo_vt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 1,631
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
For 275 and a bike to ride around campus (ie, it will sit outside in the elements, distances are short, loads are light, WILL get stolen eventually), either:

1) Get something used on craigslist. You should be mechanically inclined and willing to learn and spend money on tools.

OR

2) Get something from Target or Walmart. Avoid anything with shocks. Check everything or have it checked by a friend, or spend a few bucks getting a bike shop to do it.

Don't spend money upgrading a campus bike, especially if your budget is limited. Ride it into the ground and replace stuff as it breaks.
lambo_vt is offline  
Old 08-16-09, 05:02 PM
  #8  
not a role model
 
JeffS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,659
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Why is it that 75% of new riders list jumping curbs as a requirement (after saying they don't know anything about bikes).

I haven't jumped a curb in 3 years of daily commuting.
JeffS is offline  
Old 08-16-09, 10:06 PM
  #9  
Goathead Magnet
 
aley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 673

Bikes: Surly LHT, Cannondale Caffeine F3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by JeffS
Why is it that 75% of new riders list jumping curbs as a requirement (after saying they don't know anything about bikes).

I haven't jumped a curb in 3 years of daily commuting.
Then again, I jump at least three on my daily commute - it depends a lot on your route and your riding style.

That said, I think that most new riders worry that jumping the occasional curb will instantly taco anything but a mountain bike wheel. If you expect to ride your bike on somewhere as curb-happy as most college campuses I've been on (including the one that's on my daily commute), and you think that you'll damage a wheel by hopping off a curb if you don't have something built to take it, then you'll naturally put it in as a requirement.

To the OP, bicycle wheels are pretty amazingly tough, and most bikes won't be damaged by going over a curb if you have a bit of technique. When going down, stand up and let your knees flex so your legs absorb the shock, rather than the bicycle; when going up, "pop" the front over with your arms, then either go very slowly and have your pedals in a good torque position when your back wheel hits, or put a foot down and lift the rear wheel over the curb.
aley is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.