Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-06-10, 09:08 AM   #1
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Get new Cyclecross or fnagle fenders on current bike.

I have a dilemia. Nashbar has a really good deal on a Mongoose Cyclecross Here is the link: I think they are also offering a coupon for 20% off. So, I may be able to get it for around $400.

http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/st...olt@parker.com

The main reason I would like this is I can put full fenders and a hard mounted rack. On my current bike , Giant OCR Aluminum. It has the bladed front forks. So I could put the full fenders on the front, with some zip ties and the reach arounds at the top, but on the back, there is barely clearance for the tires to fit. I could only put fenders on it up to where the back brake is. I would still get the water ad debris that would fly to the drivetrain. Also, during the winter, there comes a point that the shifters stop working because of the cold.

Also, the Giant has the Ultegra / 105 mix. Mostly Ultegra, except for brakes / shifters. So, I was thinking that the cyclecross bike could be a good winter bike, but how reliable in general would the component group be related to Ultegra grade that I have. Will I be doing more maintenance / repairs because the bike is an overall cheaper bike?


Or, would it be better to just rig the Giant with the full fenders as best I can and just deal with the debris?

Any suggesions would be appreciated.

Last edited by gholt; 10-06-10 at 09:12 AM.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-10, 09:33 AM   #2
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I also have a third option. I have an 02 or 03, stumpjumer hard tail that I could convert to a commuter. I would have to replace the stem as it is slightly big for me. I have fenders for mtb. Also, I forgot to mention that my work reimburses $300 / a year for fitness equipment. They will pay for a bike, new / used, or fitness equipment. So, it amounts to about $150 - $175 after taxes. Also, my commute is 17 - 20 miles each way. Depending on whether I take the quickest route or the safest.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-10, 09:37 AM   #3
tsl
Plays in traffic
 
tsl's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax
Posts: 6,961
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Nothing at all wrong with Tiagra.

I have bikes that are full Sora, 105/Ultegra mix and Ultegra/Dura-Ace mix. They all shift just fine, run quietly, and are reliable.

If anything, in winter the 9-speed is an advantage over 10-speed since the replacement chains are a whole lot cheaper. Winter is tough on chains. On the other hand, it means keeping spares in stock for both 9 and 10-speed.
tsl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-10, 09:45 AM   #4
Seattle Forrest
Senior Member
 
Seattle Forrest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Bikes:
Posts: 14,567
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1472 Post(s)
If you're talking about a 35 to 40 mile commute, I think the cross bike would be a lot more comfortable than the Stumpjumer.
Seattle Forrest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-10, 09:47 AM   #5
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Well my 3 bikes are all 9 speed. It makes it easy for chains. I just keep an extra on on hand at all times.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-10, 09:51 AM   #6
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The only other question I have is on the brifters. Do all makes of brifters end up not shifting after a certain temp, or is is just the ones that I have?

If this is the case, I may want to go with my stumpjumer as the shifters on it do not freeze.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-10, 01:36 PM   #7
tjspiel
Senior Member
 
tjspiel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Minneapolis
Bikes:
Posts: 8,057
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gholt View Post
The only other question I have is on the brifters. Do all makes of brifters end up not shifting after a certain temp, or is is just the ones that I have?

If this is the case, I may want to go with my stumpjumer as the shifters on it do not freeze.
I was using lowly Soras on my winter bike last year. They never froze up. The front derailleur was a different story.
tjspiel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-10, 05:36 PM   #8
tsl
Plays in traffic
 
tsl's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax
Posts: 6,961
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gholt View Post
Do all makes of brifters end up not shifting after a certain temp, or is is just the ones that I have?
I've never had a problem. (Shimano 8-speed R-500s, 10-speed 105s, and 9-speed Ultegras)
tsl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-10, 06:00 PM   #9
Kojak
Senior Member
 
Kojak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: PNW - Victoria, BC
Bikes: 2002 Litespeed Vortex - 2007 Trek Madone 5.9 - 2004 Redline Conquest Pro - Specialized S-Works Festina Team Model - 93 Cannondale M 800 Beast of the East
Posts: 1,482
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If you opt to fit your current bike with fenders, this is an option:

http://rivercitybicycles.com/sitesea...SiteSearch.y=9

Aside from that, I'm all for the (n)+1 philosophy on bike ownership.
Kojak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 08:54 AM   #10
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kojak View Post
If you opt to fit your current bike with fenders, this is an option:

http://rivercitybicycles.com/sitesea...SiteSearch.y=9

Aside from that, I'm all for the (n)+1 philosophy on bike ownership.
I bought those about 2 or so years ago and haven't bothered to put them on yet. I have the full fenders and such. So, this year I am going to put them on, or get a new bike.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 08:57 AM   #11
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsl View Post
I've never had a problem. (Shimano 8-speed R-500s, 10-speed 105s, and 9-speed Ultegras)
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjspiel View Post
I was using lowly Soras on my winter bike last year. They never froze up. The front derailleur was a different story.
So, I have had this happen with two different sets of brifters. one on a Tiagra and another on on a 105. It seems after the temp dips into the 30f or below, they do not shift down. I can shift up, but when I need to shift down, I have to keep shifting the lefer for about 10 - 15 minutes before the shifter wants to cooperate. Any suggestions, as to why this would be the cases. I add a spray lube every so often so they have plenty of lubrication.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 09:17 AM   #12
tjspiel
Senior Member
 
tjspiel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Minneapolis
Bikes:
Posts: 8,057
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gholt View Post
So, I have had this happen with two different sets of brifters. one on a Tiagra and another on on a 105. It seems after the temp dips into the 30f or below, they do not shift down. I can shift up, but when I need to shift down, I have to keep shifting the lefer for about 10 - 15 minutes before the shifter wants to cooperate. Any suggestions, as to why this would be the cases. I add a spray lube every so often so they have plenty of lubrication.
I've ridden in temps well below 0 F and never had this problem. I have had cables freeze near the derailleurs and it tends to happen when temps dip below freezing after riding in slushy/wet weather. They loosen up after a bit. Make sure you're lubing the cables.
tjspiel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 09:25 AM   #13
himespau 
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Bikes:
Posts: 9,692
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Doesn't look like those nashbar bikes are going to be available until after the sale ends.
himespau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 09:32 AM   #14
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjspiel View Post
I've ridden in temps well below 0 F and never had this problem. I have had cables freeze near the derailleurs and it tends to happen when temps dip below freezing after riding in slushy/wet weather. They loosen up after a bit. Make sure you're lubing the cables.
Its always been the shifter. I could never hear or feel it click to the next gear. So, I would move it back and forth for about 10 min and eventually, I think, it would warm up and I could shift down.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 09:32 AM   #15
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by himespau View Post
Doesn't look like those nashbar bikes are going to be available until after the sale ends.
It shows up in the cart with the discount. I think I can pre order it at the sale price and not have to pay for it for another month. It could be worth a try.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 11:38 AM   #16
himespau 
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Bikes:
Posts: 9,692
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Not sure why everything's Tiagra except the FD that is 2200 (and the brakes, crankset and cassette, which are a mish mash as is sort of to be expected). Also wish they told you a weight, but if you want it, seems like a rather inexpensive way to go.
himespau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 12:04 PM   #17
JeremyZ
Senior Member
 
JeremyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Chicagoland
Bikes: 1997 Schwinn Searcher GS, 2007 Dahon Curve D3
Posts: 794
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
40 miles is a hell of a commute, especially in winter.

I'd want something with drop bars and proper full fenders if I were going to tackle it. Not sure how much snow you get, but if it is anything like Chicago, there will be a lot of days when it is just not worth the risk of falling down and getting run over, or just getting run over.

The grit you're thinking of ignoring: where would it go? Would it mostly land in harmless areas or is it going to mess up the front derailleur? It will for sure mess up your chain and sprockets.

I was thinking about winter commuting, but to me, it is just not going to be worth the risk of getting run over. Our streets out here don't have sidewalks, the shoulders are gravel, and they plow the snow onto them anyway. My commute would be about a mile each way, but still not worth the risk.

Forget the fenders and look for a beater car.
JeremyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 12:19 PM   #18
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gholt View Post
Its always been the shifter. I could never hear or feel it click to the next gear. So, I would move it back and forth for about 10 min and eventually, I think, it would warm up and I could shift down.
So, any ideas what would cause a brifter to do this after a certain temp?
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-10, 03:30 PM   #19
gholt
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Layton, UT
Bikes: 2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
Posts: 686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyZ View Post
40 miles is a hell of a commute, especially in winter.

I'd want something with drop bars and proper full fenders if I were going to tackle it. Not sure how much snow you get, but if it is anything like Chicago, there will be a lot of days when it is just not worth the risk of falling down and getting run over, or just getting run over.

The grit you're thinking of ignoring: where would it go? Would it mostly land in harmless areas or is it going to mess up the front derailleur? It will for sure mess up your chain and sprockets.

I was thinking about winter commuting, but to me, it is just not going to be worth the risk of getting run over. Our streets out here don't have sidewalks, the shoulders are gravel, and they plow the snow onto them anyway. My commute would be about a mile each way, but still not worth the risk.

Forget the fenders and look for a beater car.
Alot of the days are like this. When it's snowing or too icy out, I don't go, but when it is dry and just cold. It is not too bad. They sand / not salt the roads and once it is dry, then it is OK to ride. The route I take is country roads. So, I normally don't ride in the shoulder. I ride mainly where the right tire of a car would be. So, I'm real cautious during the winter. A lot of the time, I end up on the trainer at night for 1:30 hrs. Not as much fun, but it is what it is.
gholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:18 AM.