Cannondale Bad Boy Rohloff 2010 for commuting - review
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edit: actually it is easier to get the back wheel on and off as a derailleur wheel as you just have to adjust the gear at the handle bar when you put the cable connector back on- its really easy.
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Last edited by royalflash; 03-15-12 at 03:24 AM. Reason: update
#52
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the head shock is really good and quite efficient in terms of weight/benefit I would say- I am normally a bit sceptical of the need for suspension on commuting bikes but since I sometimes jump off sidewalks with my 100kg onto the poor little front 28 inch wheel, it is not bad to have a bit of cushioning to avoid any wheel damage. It feels a bit like the wheel has landed on a little cushion. And when you don^t need any suspension you can just lock it out while you are riding just by twisting the lock thing on the top of the head set. So surprisingly good I would say.
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#53
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
On my Cannondale Rush, I can lock out both the more conventional Fox fork and rear shock -- but it's definitely not as convenient to do as it is to lock out a Headshok. Sometimes I wish I had sprung (ha!) for a Headshok or Lefty.
#55
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Go where someone can see your bike and hear your squeak,
a Bike shop, is highly recommended.
a Bike shop, is highly recommended.
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-29-12 at 02:11 PM.
#56
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Thanks- as I have been using the bike for just more than a year it is time to update.
I just did the yearly service- the chain was basically still not worn out after a year which is quite impressive as with a derailleur system the chain can be worn out in less than 6 months Rohloff chains being hard to find I tried a SRAM SSchain but it was too wide and didn't seem to fit right. So just threw a SRAM 9 speed chain on it it in the end. Did the Rohloff oil change- no problem. The adjustment of the eccentric bottom bracket has not been a problem as the chain lasts so long it has not been necessary to adjust it yet.
Rohloff hub is fantastic- no messing around-adjustments etc.
The weakness on this bike is the brakes (Tektro Auriga). When new they are adequate but when I left the bike in the garage over winter and then started to ride it again the brakes had become to my mind dangerous. (You could pull them on and still push the bike forward). I swapped out the disc pads (they were not completely worn out) and cleaned the rotors and the brakes are now back to adequate. Compared however to a basic set of Shimano hydraulic discs they are definitely poor. And I am comparing them to a 10 year old bog standard set of Shimano LXs here which stop like hitting a brick wall compared to the Aurigas. Maybe it is because the pads are relatively small (they look about half the area of the shimano pads) Also the right pads are hard to find and i only found one online shop that stocked them. Another worrying point it that you don't get a new pad return spring delivered with the new pads so when the original one corrodes or breaks then you have a big problem. So it is thumbs down for the brakes i am afraid. I can see me eventually swapping them for a basic set of shimanos. Luckily they are not integral with the shifter so can be swapped.
I just did the yearly service- the chain was basically still not worn out after a year which is quite impressive as with a derailleur system the chain can be worn out in less than 6 months Rohloff chains being hard to find I tried a SRAM SSchain but it was too wide and didn't seem to fit right. So just threw a SRAM 9 speed chain on it it in the end. Did the Rohloff oil change- no problem. The adjustment of the eccentric bottom bracket has not been a problem as the chain lasts so long it has not been necessary to adjust it yet.
Rohloff hub is fantastic- no messing around-adjustments etc.
The weakness on this bike is the brakes (Tektro Auriga). When new they are adequate but when I left the bike in the garage over winter and then started to ride it again the brakes had become to my mind dangerous. (You could pull them on and still push the bike forward). I swapped out the disc pads (they were not completely worn out) and cleaned the rotors and the brakes are now back to adequate. Compared however to a basic set of Shimano hydraulic discs they are definitely poor. And I am comparing them to a 10 year old bog standard set of Shimano LXs here which stop like hitting a brick wall compared to the Aurigas. Maybe it is because the pads are relatively small (they look about half the area of the shimano pads) Also the right pads are hard to find and i only found one online shop that stocked them. Another worrying point it that you don't get a new pad return spring delivered with the new pads so when the original one corrodes or breaks then you have a big problem. So it is thumbs down for the brakes i am afraid. I can see me eventually swapping them for a basic set of shimanos. Luckily they are not integral with the shifter so can be swapped.
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Yeah, nice bike, really sharp looking. And I put a fork the wrong way once too. The ride felt really weird, I didn't catch on until I looked at the pictures of the bike that I took during the ride. Duh...
I wonder if you could put belt drive on that bike? It'd make it uber cool! Have fun riding it and be safe!
Yeah, I'd put Avid Juicy 5 on that bike instead of those Tektros. Anything below Juicy 5 is not much better than BB7 mechanical brakes. If you're going to store the bike over the winter in a garage or basement, take the pads out and put them in a watertight container or a plastic bag and put some plastic bags over the rotors.
I wonder if you could put belt drive on that bike? It'd make it uber cool! Have fun riding it and be safe!
Yeah, I'd put Avid Juicy 5 on that bike instead of those Tektros. Anything below Juicy 5 is not much better than BB7 mechanical brakes. If you're going to store the bike over the winter in a garage or basement, take the pads out and put them in a watertight container or a plastic bag and put some plastic bags over the rotors.
Last edited by AdamDZ; 03-15-12 at 05:01 AM.
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after about a year of riding on it have experienced the first problem- broken spoke on the rear. Although I weigh about 100kg it would seem that a spoke breakage after only a year is not very impressive. Sent a mail to the online shop i bought it from (Evans UK) and they said they could not provide me with a replacement spoke as they would have to stock too many. Looked through my old wheels and I might have some old spokes that would fit. It is extremely frustrating however that it is always a struggle to get hold of replacement parts for bikes.
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Anyway i found that the spokes on an old 26 mtb wheel are exactly the right length for the 28 Rohloff wheel.
So i put one of those on (and checked the spoke tension).
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as i thought the eccentric bottom bracket would be a pain- The new chain was loose so I had no choice but to try and adjust the eccentric bb.
I unscrewed the wedge screw and bought a pin spanner. No way the eccentric bb would budge.
Took out the cranks. Tried hammering the pin spanner the eccentric bb would still not budge.
No choice but to hammer out the eccentric bb shell from the frame. No lube whatsoever in the eccentric bb shell when the bike was assembled. I can confidently say that you will never be able to adjust the chain tension without taking the bb shell out of the frame and applying some lube. Not really impressed as it has been quite a major job just to adjust chain tension and still have not finished. You should have to reassemble the bike to adjust chain tension.
I unscrewed the wedge screw and bought a pin spanner. No way the eccentric bb would budge.
Took out the cranks. Tried hammering the pin spanner the eccentric bb would still not budge.
No choice but to hammer out the eccentric bb shell from the frame. No lube whatsoever in the eccentric bb shell when the bike was assembled. I can confidently say that you will never be able to adjust the chain tension without taking the bb shell out of the frame and applying some lube. Not really impressed as it has been quite a major job just to adjust chain tension and still have not finished. You should have to reassemble the bike to adjust chain tension.
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#63
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as i thought the eccentric bottom bracket would be a pain- The new chain was loose so I had no choice but to try and adjust the eccentric bb.
I unscrewed the wedge screw and bought a pin spanner. No way the eccentric bb would budge.
Took out the cranks. Tried hammering the pin spanner the eccentric bb would still not budge.
No choice but to hammer out the eccentric bb shell from the frame. No lube whatsoever in the eccentric bb shell when the bike was assembled. I can confidently say that you will never be able to adjust the chain tension without taking the bb shell out of the frame and applying some lube. Not really impressed as it has been quite a major job just to adjust chain tension and still have not finished. You should have to reassemble the bike to adjust chain tension.
I unscrewed the wedge screw and bought a pin spanner. No way the eccentric bb would budge.
Took out the cranks. Tried hammering the pin spanner the eccentric bb would still not budge.
No choice but to hammer out the eccentric bb shell from the frame. No lube whatsoever in the eccentric bb shell when the bike was assembled. I can confidently say that you will never be able to adjust the chain tension without taking the bb shell out of the frame and applying some lube. Not really impressed as it has been quite a major job just to adjust chain tension and still have not finished. You should have to reassemble the bike to adjust chain tension.
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i bought it mail order from the UK so not so easy to take it back- in any case the 2 year warranty is about up now.
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It seems from your description that the eccentric bottom bracket is held in place by a couple of grub screws that dig into the bottom bracket itself?
I have seen two solutions to the eccentric bottom bracket, one is with the grub screws, the other is a more clamp like arrangement. It is as if the bottom bracket shell part of the frame is cut along the axle line, under the bike, and a couple of flanges are added. Two bolts clamp those flanges together, holding the bb in place.
I think the latter arrangement is superior.
Could you give us a pic or two showing the bb arrangement?
z
I have seen two solutions to the eccentric bottom bracket, one is with the grub screws, the other is a more clamp like arrangement. It is as if the bottom bracket shell part of the frame is cut along the axle line, under the bike, and a couple of flanges are added. Two bolts clamp those flanges together, holding the bb in place.
I think the latter arrangement is superior.
Could you give us a pic or two showing the bb arrangement?
z
#67
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It seems from your description that the eccentric bottom bracket is held in place by a couple of grub screws that dig into the bottom bracket itself?
I have seen two solutions to the eccentric bottom bracket, one is with the grub screws, the other is a more clamp like arrangement. It is as if the bottom bracket shell part of the frame is cut along the axle line, under the bike, and a couple of flanges are added. Two bolts clamp those flanges together, holding the bb in place.
I think the latter arrangement is superior.
Could you give us a pic or two showing the bb arrangement?
z
I have seen two solutions to the eccentric bottom bracket, one is with the grub screws, the other is a more clamp like arrangement. It is as if the bottom bracket shell part of the frame is cut along the axle line, under the bike, and a couple of flanges are added. Two bolts clamp those flanges together, holding the bb in place.
I think the latter arrangement is superior.
Could you give us a pic or two showing the bb arrangement?
z
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-will-not-move!
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The bb is a wedge type and shown here: The bb has two wedges that are pulled into each side of the bb by a long screw.
https://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf
instructions here
https://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf
https://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf
instructions here
https://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf
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and another thing I noticed is that the frame under the BB has a hole in probably so excess lubricant can drain out (not that it looks like they use any at the factory).
So probably is a good idea to put cover it with duct tape or something.
So probably is a good idea to put cover it with duct tape or something.
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#70
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got the bike out after winter and the same deal with the brakes. Couldn´t even lock up the wheels on a wet and greasy road!. Even though i still have some more brake pads for them I can´t be bothered messing around with them anymore. They have been consigned to the bin where they always belonged. Would have preferred to pay a bit more and get some decent basic set of shimanos. Bike manufacturers please take note - it is not worth fitting Tektro Auriga´s.
I had some Avid cable operated BB7s on a different bike so I transplanted them over.
I had some Avid cable operated BB7s on a different bike so I transplanted them over.
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Hello. I am new in here. I have a Cannondale Bad Boy 1 Ultra 2010 and my rear caliper went south, so I am thinking what caliper or the set is comparable with my model?
Thank you.
Thank you.
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