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Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

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Old 03-03-11, 07:37 PM   #1
mosquito
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Bottom Bracket question

I am currently running a 1x8 internal gear hub drive train. My crank length is only 165 but when I turn my toe strikes the front wheel. I'm wondering if it's possible to perhaps get a longer BB so when I turn the wheel won't strike my toe so much. Is this possible? I'm thinking I'll also need a Surly Singleator to get the chain to line up more with the increase in BB length.
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Old 03-03-11, 07:42 PM   #2
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Longer BB will change the angle of the front wheel where it hits your foot. If you're using a 165mm crank, and your feet are hitting the front wheel, your bike is probably too small for you. What bike/size is it? What size shoe do you wear, and what type of pedals are you using?

A Surly Singleator only fixes chain tension, and has nothing to do with chainline.
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Old 03-03-11, 07:48 PM   #3
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I ride a 58 and size 10 shoes. My Pacer has 175 cranks with no problems with toe strike. I am using MKS Grip Kings on both bikes.
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Old 03-03-11, 08:46 PM   #4
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Usually toe strike is only an issue at very slow speed, like starting off. Get up to speed and you are OK. Are you striking the wheel at speed? That could be iffy.
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Old 03-03-11, 09:25 PM   #5
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Yes I go slow a lot while turning as there is a lot of stopping and starting where I bike. Toe clearance is paramount for me.
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Old 03-03-11, 09:36 PM   #6
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Yes I go slow a lot while turning as there is a lot of stopping and starting where I bike. Toe clearance is paramount for me.
Toe overlap is inherent in the frame. A lot of designers don't really care about it, as gerv pointed out, it's usually only an issue at low speeds. If you really want to eliminate it on your current frame, just about the only thing you can do is to reduce your tire size.
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Old 03-03-11, 09:51 PM   #7
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Is your fork bent? Sometimes a good crash will bend the fork back and consequently your tire will be closer to your toes resulting in clearance issues. From the side you should have a straight line running from your stem, through the head tube, to the fork blades.
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Old 03-03-11, 09:57 PM   #8
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Toe overlap is inherent in the frame. A lot of designers don't really care about it, as gerv pointed out, it's usually only an issue at low speeds. If you really want to eliminate it on your current frame, just about the only thing you can do is to reduce your tire size.
This.
Sounds like you have a relatively short wheelbase.
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Old 03-04-11, 06:23 AM   #9
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It's all about the top tube length and front wheelbase (bb to frt axle). Road bikes can have really short top tubes, it can suck on a commuter w.r.t. toe overlap if there's lots of lights, curbs etc. I've got a 25" frame with 24" top tube, no toe overlap, another 25" frame has a 22.5" top tube, toe overlap big time.
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Old 03-04-11, 09:31 AM   #10
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I doubt it would fix your problem, but there's a product called "kneesavers" that moves your pedals out from your crank arms by another 20-30 millimeters. You also might be able to find a fork with more rake. Overall though, I think a new frame is a better solution.
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Old 03-07-11, 09:22 PM   #11
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I doubt it would fix your problem, but there's a product called "kneesavers" that moves your pedals out from your crank arms by another 20-30 millimeters. You also might be able to find a fork with more rake. Overall though, I think a new frame is a better solution.
Those kneesavers seem real interesting. They kind of look like MKS EZY adapters. What do you think of me getting those instead?
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