tjspiel

So I found a new model Red Band for under $100 with the small parts kit. I'm thinking I'm going to get away with my IGH conversion relatively cheaply. Then I start adding up the cost of the stuff I still need:

Yikes! The drop bar makes it more expensive, but all the extras far exceed the cost of the IGH itself. I hope it's worth it.

BotByte

I would look for a older bike that was loved and added onto later in it's life. I found a nishiki with some $$$ upgrades for like $150 and picked the parts off it and slapped some cheaper parts on it and sold it for $300. I've never understood specialty parts, but a wet weather cassette joint sounds like bull**** to me. I ride in rain 25% of the time and my cassette doesn't have any problems. Also look on ebay for everything you need. I go to the LBS and ask them what i need, remember the parts, then buy them online.

BotByte

Also, I have bought a nice pair of bar end shifter, shimano, used for like $20 with all the cables and metal covers at a used LBS. I love them.

tjspiel

Sorry for the confusion, the "wet weather cassette joint" has nothing to do with the cassette used with derailleur systems. It's for Shimano's internally geared hubs. I'm only getting it because it's going on my winter bike which gets plenty of gunk splashed and thrown on it.

Thanks for the ebay tip. I use it when I can. I found a jTek shifter on it a couple of weeks ago but hadn't yet committed to getting an IGH so I didn't bid on it. I could have save about $25 over a new one.

rhm

1. Rather than mess with a chain tensioner, I'd find an old steel frame with horizontal dropouts.

2. I wouldn't get the JTek shifter until I had the rest of the build tweaked. I'm sure it's nice, but there are so many other variables to play with first. As alternatives to the JTek bar-end shifter, I suggest looking for unconventional handlebars that measure 22.2 mm (7/8"); a flipped Northroad bar, for example, gives a good low aggressive position. I am especially partial to Soma's new reproduction of the Lauterwasser bar, mostly because it's got such a cool vintage look, but it is also a practical way to get a Nexus twist-grip shifter on a drop bar.

tjspiel

Thanks, but this is a 700c frame with clearance for 45mm tires + fenders. That's not very common among older frames, though newer frames like the Crosscheck have that feature too. It's an old Bianchi off-road bike and came with flat bars. I could always put those back on and get a cheaper shifter, but I know I'll want the drops eventually. I'd end up wasting money and time on a shifter setup I'd only use for a short while.

edit: I should also mention that jTek is a local MN company, the shifter is made in the U.S. and I don't mind throwing some money their way, - just wish it was less.

clasher

I sucked it up and just bought the SA 5 speed wheelset that is on bikeisland and am gonna put it on an old road frame... gotta compromise on gearing but it's only 260$ to convert an old road bike to an IGH.

rhm

On your first point, I think you are mistaken. Most bikes made for 27" wheels will accept fenders, and most will accept 700c with no modification. In the rare cases where modification is necessary, it typically involves a slightly longer rear brake caliper.

Here's a photo of my bike with the Lauterwasser bar that I mentioned; as you see it is a shallow drop bar. It would doubtless fit your existing stem, existing brake levers, and existing shifter.



I do not, of course, mean to imply that this is necessarily the best option for you. I merely point it out as a possibility you may have missed.

As to your last point:

tjspiel

Nice looking bike !

Maybe I'm wrong but while I know those old road frames had more clearance than modern road bikes, I doubt they'd have room for 45mm tires and fenders.

Those handlebars look nice on your bike but I want something with useable hoods as well as drops (and be able to brake from both positions).

tjspiel

I remembered you mentioning that deal and I was seriously considering it, but in the end decided I wanted more gears. I might regret it as this will be my first attempt at building a wheel.

chucky

Not sure if they do or not, but since 27" (ISO 630) is 8mm larger in diameter than 700c (ISO 622), I'd expect the conversion would buy you plenty of clearance.

How about bullhorn bars with aerobar attachments? All the same positions as drop bars except the drop position is replaced by the aero position which is, well...more aero.

You can get 22.2mm bullhorns for peanuts here:
https://www.crowcycleco.com/

clasher

Due to an mistake on my part I ended up with two SA hubs, so I built one myself... it worked out alright, but take your time and follow some good instructions, I like the e-book at www.wheelpro.co.uk and sheldon's instructions helped too... it's just a matter of being careful and focused... don't rush the job, and I did build and take apart a front wheel for more practise.

tjspiel

Thanks. Practicing on a front wheel sounds like a good idea.

modernjess

Yeah the additional bits always add up to more than you ever imagined. Good luck with the wheel build. I'm thinking about it myself for a front dyno hub set up to match my IGH rear.

I'm interested in this wet weather cassette joint? I've never heard of it. I'm riding my Alfine IGH year round on my Crosscheck and it's handled our winter weather quite nicely. Im going to look into it though.

I love the Jtek shirfter - it was expensive, but yes local company and they were responsive to my questions when I first got it. It's a great/simple piece of machined beauty. I move it from my drops in the summer to albatross bars for winter. Each set up has it's own brake levers and stems and cables. I switch it in about 15 minutes. I also have a nexus grip shifter for flat bars, barely used, which I'll never use anymore. PM me if you want to buy it cheap.

tjspiel

Here's what it looks like:



Maybe the Alfine comes with that one? The one that came with mine is more open and doesn't have the rubber boot. I just assumed I should get it because I have trouble with the cable freezing up with my current derailleur.

Good to hear you've had success with your IGH in our climate. Did you use the regular grease? I've heard some folks switch to oil. Thanks for the offer on your grip shifter. For now I've got my heart set on the Jtek.

Mr IGH

My Alfine 8 and Nexus 8 kits have come with the open cj. I bought a weather proof cj like yours but I haven't installed it because to date I haven't had any issues (3 Chicago winters). My guess is that if the cable housing opening is facing downward then H2O doesn't get in. I'm running oil in two of my three hubs, the oiled hubs shift better in cold weather, the oiled hubs are louder in the summer. Once the hub needs maintanience it's hard to do anything except oil it.

tjspiel

It my case the cable opening will be angled upward because of the top tube routing. This might be why I was having more trouble with cable freezes this year.

modernjess

My Alfine has the standard joint too, more open and no boot. It's horizontal to the ground, and just below the chain stay. So far so good no issues. But if it start to wear I'll replace it with the wet weather model I think. Why not?

As far as grease, I've never touched it, nor do I want to really. It feels like one of those things I'll let the LBS take care of.

megalowmatt

Is the jtek an indexed shifter? Also, how do you do the fine tuning adjustments? It doesn't seem to come with any kind of mechanism to fine align the yellow dots on the hub.

I recently switched from the twist shifter to the Versa STI shifters for my Nexus hub and they work great.

HardyWeinberg

Sweet! Good luck. Are planning on cranking this out soon, or taking the spring and summer to put it together for next year?

2wheelcommute

I've been wondering this myself (thinking of getting the Jtek bar-end shifter for an Alfine 11 if it ever comes out). Their specs for the shifters confirm that there's no sort of barrel-end adjuster for lining up the yellow dots. I assume you just have to get the adjustment perfect on the hub end?

That sounds like it might be a chore, but once it's adjusted properly (and after initial cable stretching), I'm sure it's something you rarely have to worry about. On my other IGH, I think I've only touched the barrel adjuster once (half a turn) in the few thousand miles I've put on it. Does anyone have any experience with the Jtek bar end shifters and an IGH?

Mr IGH

Yes, Alfine/Nexus hubs need specific indexed shifters, regular indexed deraillieur shifters won't work. An in-line adjuster should work if there's not an adjustment mechanism in the J-Tek shifter. BTW, Alfine 8 and Nexus 8 use the same shifters, the Alfine trigger or Nexus gripshift work equally well in either hub.

megalowmatt

Thanks for the clarification.

mconlonx

Further clarification:

- The (Shimano) JTek shifter is indexed for Shimano 8sp hubs.

- An inline cable adjuster is necessary and works great.

Maybe a clever monkey could fit a cable adjuster out back at the housing stop on the cassette joint, but really, only inline adjuster is necessary. Should come standard with the JTek kit...

Of course you need to get the end of housing to that terminal cable button pretty close to spec, first.

2wheelcommute

in-line adjusters--brilliant! I hadn't heard of them previously, but it sounds like they solve an exact problem I was pondering.