swoody

Hello all!

I started commuting by bike lately, and have been enjoying it so far. I am currently riding my mountain bike as it's the only one I have at this time, and I am looking to outfit it a bit more for my commuting needs.

First, it has been raining here the past couple days, and I have been looking into fenders for 26" wheels. My main concern is to find a set which offers great coverage so I don't get a lot of water mist being thrown off of the tires and onto me. It seems that prices are much better online, but it's hard to really get a feel for how much protection different fenders will offer without seeing them in person. So, I was hoping to ask around here to see what other bike commuters use and recommend I am really open to ideas and suggestions that anyone may have.

Secondly, I want to put some more street-friendly tires on my bike. The ones I currently have are some knobby 26x2.0 trail tires which are pretty rough considering my entire commute is on pavement. I am hoping to find some quality tires with a low rolling resistance, and would be good on dry pavement and in rain. Again, I'm hoping to get some advice from my fellow commuters here for recommendations.

Looking forward to some tips. Thank you all in advance

ZManT

I have the 700c tire size version of these fenders, and I'm very happy https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Rainrunn...8&sr=8-1-fkmr0

as for tires, there's a "city tires" thread in this same message board that has a number of great suggestions for sturdy, lower rolling resistance tires - as for me, I roll with Specialized Armadillos 700x25mm and although I've paid a little more $ up front, this is a bomb proof road tire and zero flats is worth some cash to me.

Good luck with outfitting yourself - I find that part to be a lot of fun too - hopefully you are already (or will become) interested in maintaining your bike, which is a ton of fun too.

FunkyStickman

On my mountain bike, I use Axiom Roadrunner Reflex fenders, they are fantastic. Very easy to set up, full coverage, and a reflective strip down the middle. I also use Kenda Kwest 100 psi tires on it, they roll wonderfully, but aren't very flat proof (I use tire liners).

chandltp

If you're not sure what you need for parts, nothing beats taking the bike to a LBS (local bike shop). I've gotten tons of help that way, and they have a great return policy if they tell me something will fit and it doesn't, they take it back. They don't really care about open packages as long as it's in good condition, because they'll install it themselves on someone else's bike. It's not like Wal-Mart where they need to be able to resell it.

Yes, I've paid more for parts to some extent. But I also have a valuable resource and I'm helping keep it open.

I do buy some parts online, but only things that I really want a wide variety of choices and I know what I need.

meanwhile

That thread was for a road bike designed for 23mm-25mm 700c tyres; this guy's bike is an MTB and probably designed for about 50mm rubber - in 26 inch. Big difference!

Anyway:

1. Look at the rim width chart here:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

2. Fit 26 inch slicks of a suitable size. Marathon Supremes, Marathon Racers and Big Apples (excellent for pot holes and curb assaults) are all good choices. Or Marathon Duremes are fast on tarmac, but still behave well on gravel, if that matters. Marathon have lots of stuff on their site explaining the relative points of their tyres: study it and choose the most applicable.

3. Ignore people who tell you that you need a very narrow slick. Besides probably being unsafe and your rim, narrow tyres aren't really faster except in special (and to you irrelevant) circumstances:

https://www.bikeradar.com/news/articl...e-myths-29245/

Re mudguards: the standard for MTBs are the crud catchers. If you want to be really OTT you add the bar-mounted race fender to the usual front (mounted on the down tube) and rear (post-mounted). Take a look at their site. The cruds are nice because they still work with offroad tyres and remove easily.

meanwhile

Fitting tyres is easy. And most LBS will have a very poor range of road slicks for MTBs. Some, in fact, will have none. Ditto for MTB mudguards.

rumrunn6

any smooth tire & any fender will be a huge improvement. cheap tires can be found but fenders are all pretty much the same price range I think.

but if you commute more than 20 miles round trip you're gonna want a bike with bigger wheels.

I used these 26" tires from Bike Tires Direct before switching bikes. And now my wife uses them on her MTB for family rides anywhere from the campground to the bike trail to country roads.
Innova Swifter City Tire
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...ftor-city-tire

I got these BMX tires for my current MTB and also for my kids MTBs. they are easy rolling but still provide traction in the dirt. Maxxis Holy Roller. They are pretty cool but i wouldn't commute with them.
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...roller-26-tire

I use Planet Bike Fenders and bought both MTB and hybrid versions for my two foul weather commuters.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_7jdsm0guc0_e

https://www.rei.com/gear/feature/search/Google_Cycling/Planet%20Bike?s_kwcid=TC|13029|planet%20bike%20fenders||S|p|6741016565&cm_mmc=ps_google_Action-_-Category%20-%20Cycling-_-Cycling_Brand_Planet_Bike-_-Planet%20Bike%20fenders%20sunwt&gclid=CNyU94Td5KcCFQY65Qod7kQX_A

MTB fenders are different than hybrid or road fenders. road fenders are the narrowest, then come the hybrids, and the MTB fenders are the widest.

chandltp

I guess my experiences have been different. Never looked for MTB slicks, but plenty of selection for fenders or mudguards (which I have found to be pretty useless for commuting in the wet). Nothing beats a full fender for commuting in the wet, IMO.

swoody

Thank you for the great post I appreciate your recommendations on tires and the link provided a great read as well as some claims which go against common thinking. After reading it I think I may even try a wider tire - possibly something of the 26x2.25 variety. Most notably this section caught my attention:
"Riders have argued for years that narrower tires – especially on the road – roll faster and are more efficient than wider ones when in fact, the opposite is true. According to Wheel Energy, the key to reducing rolling resistance is minimizing the energy lost to casing deformation, not minimizing how much tread is in contact with the ground. All other factors being equal, wider casings exhibit less 'bulge' as a percentage of their cross-section and also have a shorter section of deflected sidewall."

Indeed, it is almost as fun as riding to me I have been riding for many years now, however my riding up until recently has been more focused on mountain biking and everything I have learned so far is applicable more to single-track and mud than daily commuting. As you can see in my sig, I am restoring a 1975 road bike which I will be using for 'nice day' commutes and road riding on the weekends. I am planning on using my mountain bike more for inclement weather and the occasional mule-bike needs (groceries, moving stuff, etc.). I have also gone so far as to make my own 100% biodegradable chain lube which I have used for quite some time already.

I truly love supporting local shops (not just cycling), however the only one within riding distance is very poor as far as (what I call) 'actual' cycling needs. The ones I have dealt with here in the past have all sold parts and accessories based solely on what bike manufacturers they sell. It is nearly akin to shopping at a big-name box mart for your biking needs.

This is very true! I have found the "bike-parts-for-mountain-bikes-which-are-trying-to-be-road-bikes" market to be a much smaller niche than both the road cycling or mountain biking groups. Parts are much less abundant especially when trying to shop at a LBS. That was one of my main reasons for posting a thread here - I know all of you guys in the BikeForum community are going to be knowledgable and able to help me out here

chandltp

Can you explain the reason for this? I've never really understood the desire for bigger wheels.

meanwhile

That's nonsense. 700c wheels have ***slightly*** less rolling resistance than 26ers if all things are equal. But most of the work you do while cycling is against air resistance and, if you have hills, gravity. As long as you buy decent slicks, and not cheap-as-you-can-find rubber, you can ride forever on a decent 26er. Also: a 26 fitted with a Big Apple is about as big as a regular 700c but has far more suspension.

To the OP - your fork does have lockout and you are using it, yes?

meanwhile

I have to confess: I'm English and therefore very rain tolerant. A lot of people here don't bother fitting any sort of fender or guard to bikes that they ride in the rain. Otoh, some people go the other way and fit full fenders with perspex side pieces, so that the wheel is virtually enclosed! "In matters of taste.."

canyoneagle

I can second much of the advice here, namely avoiding using a tire that is too narrow on a 26" rim. Going too skinny will make the ride much harsher and only slightly more efficient. Very slightly. I am a very happy Schwalbe Marathon Supreme rider and can highly recommend these tires. The ride quality is quite good and the flat resistance is among the best tires available.

For fenders, the Planet Bike Cascadia MTB, Hardcore MTB or Full MTB will all keep you dry and your bike clean, as they offer full coverage. Axiom makes fenders of slightly better quality than PB, and prices tend to be about the same.

Other recommended items would be blinking front and rear lights (if you ride on public roads). The Planet Bike Blaze 1w or 2w gives great front visibility to drivers (in flash mode), and the PB Superflash (new model) and PDW Radbot 1000 offer decent bang for the buck out back.

Mountain bikes are easily adapted to commuting duty.

Welcome to BF!

gunner65

Kenda Kwest high pressure tyres are great. I have no fenders to suggest.

canyoneagle

Kwests have a decent road feel, but are very prone to flats (from my own experience, plus what I've read from others).

rumrunn6

I went through a migration from MTB with knobby tires, to slicks and bolt on drop bars, then a dumb hybrid and roadified that bike too with drop bars, saddle and high press road tires. if the OP is even thinking about what width tire is faster then he needs a road bike. that old 10-speed should do fine. the difference between this or that slick tire on an MTB is meaningless compared to switching to a road bike. if you want to ride trails use your MTB. if you want to travel a distance on the road and be efficient use a road bike. that's all I'm saying. I'm trying to save the OP the ignorant moves I made using precious time and money. don't get me wrong though I love biking all kinds of bikes but when it comes to commmuting I know which of my 4 bikes to use. I use a different one for paved trail rides with my teenage kids. my MTB is quite versatile and comfortable on dirt; snow; paved trails and even yes, the road. I have 3 sets of tires for it, but for commuting I use my road bike.

rumrunn6

summer commuter
foul weather commuter
winter heavy snow commuter tank
70s era backup to my backup commuter

here's the old MTB (wrong size for me) that I started with and spent too much time screwing with

gunner65

I have about 1200 miles on mine no flats (yet). I also ride a 1/2 mile gravel lane shortcut twice a day no problem.

canyoneagle

I generally agree that bicyles that are made for road use are generally more efficient. However, a well-equipped mountain bike works quite well for commuting, and the OP can accommodate this with $100-150 max outlay on his existing bike.
I've commuted on road racing bicycles, cafe cruisers (up to 26 miles RT), mountain bikes (with slicks), and urban-specific commuting bikes. I can honestly say there is not much difference between them in real world conditions (weather, traffic, lights, etc), and in several instances, my mountain bikes were better suited for the role. I used my mountain bikes on routes up to 22 miles RT and they were great. Nice slick tires, lock out the fork, good to go. I frequently passed roadies.

Of the bikes, my "road bikes" - as in road racing bicycles - were the worst for commuting. They lacked the utility and comfort/control in the day-to-day road conditions encountered on my commutes. I would occasionally take my road bikes - typically on a friday - when I had little to no load and could take a longer, more road bike friendly route.
If my commute were rural in nature or very long, I would think a "club racer" or Randonneur / touring bike would be best suited for that duty.
The only way I could see using a "road bike" for a daily commute would be with a minimal (if any) backpack load on really good roads, and as part of a training regime for racing. Otherwise, why bother with the less than optimal positioning on a racing machine?

I think the OP is on the right track with some simple, affordable modifications to a bicycle he already owns. At some point in the future he may decide to spring for a Surly or Rivindell, or Civia, etc........ or not.

rumrunn6

re: "I think the OP is on the right track with some simple, affordable modifications to a bicycle he already owns"

I might agree but do we know how many miles his round trip is?

Oh BTW my "summer" road bike is old school cromoly steel not one of those new ultra light carbon jobs which I would agree is NOT appropriate for commuting - certainly not on New England roads!

canyoneagle

Sounds like you've had good luck. I never had problems with my Kwests on unpaved surfaces. Where I flatted (frequently) was on paved surfaces. Glass, goatheads, wire scraps, metal bits - those tires let all of it through. In 2000 miles on my Kwests I had 7-8 flats.

The same mileage on my Marathon Supremes - not 1 flat. <<<knocks on wood>>>
I've pulled glass and broken goatheads out of the tread. No penetration ---- yet

canyoneagle

I've never owned a carbon bike *shudders*
The ones I've test ridden felt dead to me, and, quite frankly, they felt cheap and fragile under my 195 pound frame. No thanks.

I'm a big fan of well-made steel frames.
I do agree that the road bikes with more relaxed geometry than full-on race bikes (i.e. space for fenders, eyelets for rack, space for 32's etc) make fabulous commuters.

himespau 

slimming down the tires and putting drop bars on my mtb have helped, but what I've found is I really want a cyclocross or touring bike and what I got for a lto of time/money invested is a poor substitute.

RI_Swamp_Yankee

I have the Velo Orange 60mm stainless steel fenders, and they are fantastic. They look really sharp, provide full coverage, and are Nigh Indestructable. For tires, I have CST Squamas in 26x2.1, which I don't think they make anymore - I've had no flats with them. I think my next tires are going to be either Panaracer Ribmo or Continental Town and Country.

Sixty Fiver

The type of mtb you have will determine the type of fenders you can fit... with a full suspension full fenders will be a problematic install due to the lack of mounts and because they are designed for a rigid fork.

My favourite slicker all purpose 26 inch tyre is the Schwalbe Hurricane... they get superb mileage, roll out fast, and are very flat resistant. They can also be used off road because they retain a side lug and have dual compound tread with a much harder centre tread that is very slow to wear and makes it rolls out like a road tyre.

The Schwalbe Marathon and Marathon plus are also excellent, they are considered to be among the most bulletproof of tyres but do add more weight... I have actually had more flats on my Marathons over shorter distances than I have had on the Hurricanes over 12,000 plus km.

The notion that wider tyres are slower or that you can't ride long distances on them is simply untrue... a road bike will be faster because it is generally lighter and more aerodynamic and this is more important than tyres.

With tyres it is all about how they are built... most well designed tyres roll out very well regardless of size.

I have several touring bikes... none of them run 700c wheels and some of the longest distances I have ridden have been on a 20 inch wheel, my expedition bike runs 26 inc wheels with Schwalbe Marathons and when it is unloaded I can hang with some pretty fast riders.