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  1. #76
    This bike is cat approved monsterpile's Avatar
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    Another thing I will mention if you like the laid back geometry of the old mountain bikes is just get setback seatpost. This may cause reach problems, but it could work in some cases. If you went the vintage frame route you might even be able to fine a 90's vintage frame thats aluminium. Some guy has a nifty Raleigh Technium on CL that I want, but I have no idea what for and its not cheap enough to just buy and ask questiosn later. LOL
    My SUV is a bicycle

  2. #77
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAG410 View Post
    If using linear pull/V-brake mtb levers, you'll need standard mountain cable discs. If using any short pull road lever (reverse style/drop style) you'll need the avid BB5/BB7 road calipers. Supposedly Hayes is coming out with a super shiny road cable disc caliper this summer, but currently Avid is your only option. Let you desired handlebar decide what levers you need, then get the correct calipers.
    cool, thanks for the info.

    can the same rotors be used interchangeably between hydraulic and mechanical calipers or will those need to be switched out too?
    Last edited by Steely Dan; 05-25-11 at 03:54 PM.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steely Dan View Post
    i can't be the only person in history that has ever formed an emotional bond with an inanimate object like a bicycle, can i?
    A few days late to this party but I recommend you listen to Zappa's "Joe's Garage" album to hear about an extreme case of attachment with non-humanoid objects.

    Like others said, glad you're still with us.

  4. #79
    Born Again Pagan irclean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steely Dan View Post
    a new contender arises:

    2011 Scott Sub 10 Men




    8 speed alfine IGH, disc brakes, sportier-looking geometry. looks like it can take tires up to 40 or even larger. i'm gonna check one out tonight.



    two questions for the forum:

    is there anyway to get brake levers for hydraulic disc brakes that work on drop bars or bullhorns or something else other than a flat bar?

    if not, is it possible to switch out mechanical disc brakes for hydraulic disc brakes?
    Very nice... reminds me a lot of the Giant Seek 0. Some nice Ergon GC3s would give you more hand positions on those flat bars, or you could try some trekking or H-bars.
    Gettin' my Fred on.

  5. #80
    Senior Member JAG410's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steely Dan View Post
    cool, thanks for the info.

    can the same rotors be used interchangeably between hydraulic and mechanical calipers or will those need to be switched out too?
    The rotors are the same for cable and hydro discs, so no need to change them.

    Throwing more gas on the fire here, but look how this build doesn't look very upright compared to the pics you posted.

    http://milltowncycles.blogspot.com/2...rly-troll.html

  6. #81
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    so i went to REI last night to check out the Scott Sub frame bikes. they didn't have any Sub 10 Men bikes in stock, but the frames in the Sub line are all of very similar, if not identical, geometry. i really think i can make this bike work for me. i'll switch out the hydraulic disc calipers for mechanicals and then either put on a drop bar with drop levers and an aftermarket bar end shifter for the alfine 8 IGH, or put on bullhorns with revers levers and stretch-out the rapidfire shifter hanger for the afline 8 IGH to fit around the wider bullhorn bar diameter (just as i did with my old bike). i'll probably go the bullhorn route because i think i can salvage the reverse levers from my old bike. it will come down to whether or not i can get the bullhorns low enough to offer some degree of aero advantage. i might have to use a long stem with an aggressive downward angle.

    for some reason, all of these IGH/disc brake hybrid frames have extremely tall head tubes, which is why i'm considering going a size smaller than the sizing charts dictate because i think it'll allow me to get my bars lower, more like they were on my old raleigh. that may necessitate getting a longer seat post to get my saddle up high enough and a longer stem for proper reach (though the bullhorns will add a significant amount of reach as it is), but that's ok. my old raleigh was technically undersized for me as well, and i really loved the feel of that set-up. i'm more comfortable making a smaller frame ride a little bigger than vice versa.


    one more question, having never before dealt with a bike with an IGH drive train and eccentric bottom bracket, how hard is it to remove the rear wheel to fix a flat in the field? is it a complex process involving lots of tools and technical steps, or is it fairly straightforward and only a little bit more of a nuisance compared to a derailleur bike?
    Last edited by Steely Dan; 05-26-11 at 09:29 AM.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  7. #82
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    well, after measuring my old raleigh frame and comparing it against the frame geometry charts from Scott, i went ahead and ordered the small size Sub 10 Men from REI. i know it's the bike i want and REI has a 15% off sale on all bikes right now, so why not. it should arrive at my local REI store in about 2 weeks.

    thanks to all in this thread for your concerns, help, and suggestions. while i mourn the loss of my old bike, i'm now really excited to get my hands on a true disc-brake/IGH all-weather 4-season urban assault vehicle.
    Last edited by Steely Dan; 05-27-11 at 03:56 PM.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  8. #83
    Born Again Pagan irclean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steely Dan View Post
    ...one more question, having never before dealt with a bike with an IGH drive train and eccentric bottom bracket, how hard is it to remove the rear wheel to fix a flat in the field? is it a complex process involving lots of tools and technical steps, or is it fairly straightforward and only a little bit more of a nuisance compared to a derailleur bike?
    This is a very good, detail-laden instructional video that teaches you to do just that. With practice, I've been able to remove the wheel in well under a minute.



    In my seat bag I keep a stubby 15 mm wrench for the axle nuts, a multi-tool that includes a 2 mm Allen key to rotate the cam that releases cable tension, and another multi-tool that unfolds into a set of needle-nose pliers to remove the nut/bolt assembly that holds the cable.
    Gettin' my Fred on.

  9. #84
    Senior Member funrover's Avatar
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    That sucks, sorry to hear that

  10. #85
    Senior Member KD5NRH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lug View Post
    Yes aluminum will corrode. Especially around areas where a dissimilar metal is. Usually though it will be under something. On a bike I would expect to see it start under clamped on items where the surface treatment has been damaged. Haven't seen it on a bike, but a fair amount on airplanes.
    Try http://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php?...&parent=6&pg=1 I've got some 2400 series that I've done a couple of pistols, a shotgun and a rifle with and will try on a bike frame as soon as I get it sandblasted. I don't know how good the air-cure version is, but it would eliminate the biggest hassle of using 2400 series on stuff too big to fit in the oven; keeping a wood-fired cooker at least 350F for an hour works, but leaves you cleaning a bunch of soot off afterward.

  11. #86
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irclean View Post
    In my seat bag I keep a stubby 15 mm wrench for the axle nuts, a multi-tool that includes a 2 mm Allen key to rotate the cam that releases cable tension, and another multi-tool that unfolds into a set of needle-nose pliers to remove the nut/bolt assembly that holds the cable.
    Is it possible to use quick release skewers on an IGH? My new bike uses an EBB for chain tension because of the disc brakes, so the frame has a regular dérailleur frame style vertical drop-outs instead of horizontal drop-outs, so I'm thinking I should be able to switch out the nutted skewers for some QR ones, no?
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  12. #87
    Senior Member JAG410's Avatar
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    I wouldn't bother, you're going to need to get tools out for the ebb anyways when you remove the wheel, so qr skewers aren't really worth it.

  13. #88
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    whether it's worth it or not is a different issue, Im just curious if it's possible to use QR skewers with an IGH from a functionality/safety perspective.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  14. #89
    Senior Member JAG410's Avatar
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    I don't think you can swap it anyways. The Rohloff is the only IGH I can think of that has a QR option.

  15. #90
    Mister Bleak! mconlonx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAG410 View Post
    I wouldn't bother, you're going to need to get tools out for the ebb anyways when you remove the wheel, so qr skewers aren't really worth it.
    Why would you even need to touch the EBB when removing the wheel? All you really need extra is a 15mm wrench for the axle nuts.

    Disk brake IGH wheel removal seems pretty quick and painless.
    Quote Originally Posted by Six jours View Post
    Bottom line: everyone here should listen to Mconlonx... he has it figured out and the rest of you, well, don't.
    I know next to nothing. I am frequently wrong.

  16. #91
    Senior Member no motor?'s Avatar
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    I never knew there were so many new bikes sold as commuter bikes. There's one in the front of the new Performance ad today with IGH 8 speed Alfine, disc brakes, fender and a rack. It's aluminium and wouldn't fit your specs (especially after you already ordered the Scott), but I figured it mention it anyway in the hopes someone else may find it useful.

  17. #92
    Green Tea Lemonade Oil_LOL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no motor? View Post
    [URL="http://www.performancebike.com/bikes//CatalogSearchResultView?storeId=10052&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&pageSize=16&beginIndex=0&sortBy=Dollar+Rank%2F%2F1&searchType=resultSet&cn1=&searchTerm=30-7845"]one in the front of the new Performance ad today[/URL**

  18. #93
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no motor? View Post
    I never knew there were so many new bikes sold as commuter bikes. There's one in the front of the new Performance ad today with IGH 8 speed Alfine, disc brakes, fender and a rack. It's aluminium and wouldn't fit your specs (especially after you already ordered the Scott), but I figured it mention it anyway in the hopes someone else may find it useful.
    it is good to see more companies addressing the disc-brake & IGH-equipped 4-season commuting/utility bike need. i only wish that someone would start making them with something other than flat bars. i know that i can't be the only bike commuter out there who has ever wanted a disc-brake/IGH bike with something other than flat bars.
    Last edited by Steely Dan; 06-01-11 at 11:52 AM.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  19. #94
    This bike is cat approved monsterpile's Avatar
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    They make them they are just pretty expensive. Civia Bryant Alfine is one I saw (maybe the only one), but its at least $1500 which is like $500 above your price range and its steel.
    My SUV is a bicycle

  20. #95
    Born Again Pagan irclean's Avatar
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    Of course, there's always the $5200 Co-Motion Americano Rohloff.

    Or you can save a few bucks and pick up the awesome Van Dessel WTF (Whiskey Tango Foxtrot).

    But seriously, many SS drop-bar bikes can be converted to IGH using the Jtek bar-end shifter or the Versa brifters. One could also add front disc brakes to a rim-braked bike with a fork swap.

    There's also the handsome Steelwool Tweed which can be equipped with IGH and disc brakes. Their website is being updated at the time of this writing, so here's a pic:



    Lastly, of course, you could always swap out the flat bars for some trekking bars to gain hand positions, which is exactly what I did on my IGH-equipped, disc-braked, belt-driven, 4-season commuter:

    Gettin' my Fred on.

  21. #96
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    so today was my first ride into work since my bus accident. last night my hand and wrist, where i have some small fractures causing me a fair bit of pain and discomfort, were feeling the best that they have since the accident, so i decided to take my bike on a little spin over to the local bike shop to check out their aerobar selection. because my big trip across great britain is coming up, i thought that getting some aerobars for my road bike to help relieve pressure off my wrist would be a good idea. they had the bars i was looking for in stock so i got 'em and put them on my bike and road in to work this morning. it feels so great to be back on a bike after two weeks, even if it was still painful.

    my hand and wrist still hurt when i'm on the hoods in traffic, especially going over bumps in the road (i get a sharp shooting pain with each thump-thump), but stretches where i can get down on the aerobars, it felt much, much better to get the weight off my hand/wrist. i feel so much more confident now that i'm gonna be able to go on my big ride in britain coming up in two weeks, which makes me overjoyed. for awhile i was nervous that i was gonna have to bail, and that would have crushed me as i've been planning and looking forward to this trip for the past 10 months.

    and my new scott sub 10 is due to be delivered at REI next tuesday, can't wait!
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  22. #97
    RT
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    The Weird Beard RT's Avatar
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    I hate waiting.

  23. #98
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    Definitely post some pics once you pick up/trick out the Scott.

  24. #99
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    ^ for sure. pics of my new pony will be posted here as soon as i get her home (hopefully tomorrow!).
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  25. #100
    Senior Member canyoneagle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irclean View Post
    In my seat bag I keep a ..... 2 mm Allen key to rotate the cam that releases cable tension, a....
    I use an old 14ga spoke snipped to about 6" long. Works like a charm,

    Congrats, SteelyDan! The Sub10 looks like a great bike!
    For handlebar setup, if the TT length allows you to do it, you can get a set of drop bars, stem, brake levers and shifter (I highly recommend the J-Tek) to have a second set whenever you want the drops.

    I've done this on my bike. I have a flat bar everything all set up, with the IGH cable/housing/barrel assembly attached to the shifter (my frame uses the hydro-clamps for cables so I can remove them easily).

    I can swap from flat to drop or vice versa in less than 30 minutes. It is nice to have the option.

    Flat:
    Vesta flat side.jpg

    Drop:
    Norco Vesta Alfin&.jpg
    Last edited by canyoneagle; 06-10-11 at 11:08 AM.
    Currently one bike: Singular Gryphon do-it all bike with Nuvinci N360
    Coming soon (winter project) Ciocc Designer '84 mod build
    Temporary (on loan from a buddy): 1985 Raleigh Prestige

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