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See headlight

Old 06-06-11, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Leisesturm
I guffaw in your general direction... 20mph... you're serious too, aren't you. Post #12 everybody. Read it and weep, but he has it right on. At night every other kind of road user goes out the door armed with a minimum amount of light that is hundreds of times brighter than a MagicShine for 1/10th the cost of a Magicshine. They are not traveling 100x faster. Sorry brethren the MagicShine must be considered the minimum amount of light adequate at night and while it is very possible to make do with less... why? I've had salespeople try to sell me $600 headlights with a straight face. Lights that are about as bright as a MagicShine. Again, ... why? Why are cyclists so contrary? Either they want to pay $600, $800 and more for adequate amounts of light and thumb their noses at MagicShines for being "shoddy"... or they think 50 lumens a bit too bright for comfort and thumb their noses at MagicShines for being 'overkill'. I don't get it. I really don't.

H
I prefer to have something that has a failure rate of much less than 1 out of 3. I'd rather have much less light & more reliability.
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Old 06-06-11, 03:44 PM
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Seriously it isn't rocket science. Batteries are very standard in voltage and fairly standard in capacity. LED emitters exist in only a handful of sizes/outputs. If two different manufacturers each use the same Cree emitter, put it in a 17mm reflector and power it with 3X AAA... you aren't going to get 250 lumens out of one and only 50 out of the other. I don't have to own a Bell light to know how it does. I own an Ascent 4x AAA headlight. Actually I own three of them, they are that cheap. They remain on the bikes that I ride as backups and the MagicShine gets moved to the bike that is actually being ridden. Before I got the MagicShine I would gang two of the Ascents together sometimes... ... you know... its ok not to know that it gets better than 100 lumens and you don't have to do unspeakable things with your body in sketchy parts of town to get the money... what is sad is that some want to dismiss out of hand anything more useful than what they've got going. A lockblock is a nifty piece of kit but it is not superior to an O-ring for sheer speed and economy. BTW just so you all don't think I drink Geomorange juice for breakfast, I have to observe that anyone can put a P7 emitter in an aluminum housing that is ~2?mm in diameter, power it with 2x 18650 for voltage and 2x more for runtime, contract with a Chinese factory for a low MSRP, and, voila, a (ersatz) MagicShine. I think Gemini lights are like that. MagicShine happens to be what I used specifically to get enough light to see with at night at a price point that I was comfortable with. YMMDV.

H
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Old 06-06-11, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by daveF
I prefer to have something that has a failure rate of much less than 1 out of 3. I'd rather have much less light & more reliability.
I was well aware of the battery issue so I only purchased the MagicShine lighthead and sourced batteries separately. I'd rather have much more light and deal with reliability issues with backup units, etc.

H
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Old 06-06-11, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Leisesturm
I was well aware of the battery issue so I only purchased the MagicShine lighthead and sourced batteries separately. I'd rather have much more light and deal with reliability issues with backup units, etc.

H
Batteries haven't been the only issue.
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Old 06-06-11, 04:43 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Leisesturm
That Zombie Scorcher in traffic is no brighter and no more distinctive than any other automobile headlight. If you want to stand out or be identified as 'special' put a flasher on or better still put your backup 1/2 watt in flash mode. My backup light runs in flash mode full time whether or not the Magicshine is running. I save the MagicShine for the dead zones without streetlights or the runs between towns.

H
Sorry, I don't do half watt garbage. I run twin Dinotte's up front. You can buy an awful lot of $20- $50 lights or you can bite the bullet and buy just one. I chose the latter path and never looked back.
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Old 06-06-11, 05:00 PM
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Last fall I bought a Cateye HL-EL350. All I can say is... meh. It's okay, but I wouldn't want to rely on it while going down a dark trail. I wanted a light without an external battery pack, and it fits that bill nicely. It uses 4 AA batteries, and of course I use rechargeables. I mounted it on the fork crown and it gives definition to potholes, so it's sufficient for my city commute. It only has one mode... steady.

My backup light is a PB Blaze 1W. It sure is an attention getter on its SuperFlash mode, but there's no way I'd rely on it to see by. Combined with my Cateye I think I'm sufficiently lit up to "be seen", but I often feel that things could be brighter to "see by".

I also use one of these front-facing and one of these rear-facing button battery lights on my helmet. I buy them by the dozen because I often end up giving them away to cyclists that I encounter who lack lights. Better than nothing, and makes them legal.

Ideally I would like to replace my Cateye with a dynohub and a nice light to take its place on the fork crown, and I'd still use the handlebar-mounted PB for a backup blinkie.

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Old 06-06-11, 05:27 PM
  #32  
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I use the Cateye EL-610. I have added a dynamo hub and light in case the EL- 610 quits. The cost was not a thought. Safety was the rule. I just saved up until I could handle it. The Cateye has low, high, and strobe. Cagers see me and give me a modicum of respect. Still have to be vigilant.
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Old 06-06-11, 07:46 PM
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I had a Cateye HL-EL350 for a while, back when it was new and improved with 1,500 candlepower several years ago. It did provide a small bright beam that made it hard to see in the areas outside the small bright beam, and served as a carrying case for batteries for the L2D that replaced it. I'd hate to go back to using the Cateye as my only light, especially since I gave it to a friend! You could get 2 or 3 AA led flashlights and some batteries for the cost of the Cateye, and be able to see better too.
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Old 06-06-11, 08:22 PM
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Here is what the worthless Bell LED looks like!

The fence is about sixty feet.

And I have no clue how long the batteries have been in it,
several months?

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Old 06-07-11, 04:02 AM
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The first time headlight buyer is faced with two choices. 1.) purchase an expensive but perfect lighting system. or 2.) purchase multiple cheap lighting systems (replacing them as they crap out) and getting frustrated till you break down and purchase the expensive but perfect lighting system you should have got to start with. Guess which choice ends up being more economical?
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Old 06-07-11, 05:59 AM
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Agreed, check the thread on lights under $50 in the Electronics forum. There are some excellent LED flashlights that run on AA rechargeable batteries that you can buy for very reasonable costs. I've got a Fenix LD20 that costs a little more than that, but is very bright and has been totally reliable during 4 years of use.

You can spend anywhere from $20 to $500+ on front lights. The more expensive lights will provide more brightness and better run times, but you can get very effective lighting for minimal bucks.
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Old 06-07-11, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tarwheel
You can spend anywhere from $20 to $500+ on front lights. The more expensive lights will provide more brightness and better run times, but you can get very effective lighting for minimal bucks.
More brightness (a wider light pattern that shines well in front of even the fastest rider), better run times, connectors you can count on (no sudden outages just as you are descending), better mounts (that won't break when you crash or drop the bike), better battery setups (pulling batteries out every time you need a charge will wear out the battery holder in no time), more reliable in wet conditions, just about every aspect of the system will function better and last longer.
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Old 06-07-11, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gear
The first time headlight buyer is faced with two choices. 1.) purchase an expensive but perfect lighting system. or 2.) purchase multiple cheap lighting systems (replacing them as they crap out) and getting frustrated till you break down and purchase the expensive but perfect lighting system you should have got to start with. Guess which choice ends up being more economical?
A listing of all the poor quality lights we've purchased after making choice 2 might make a good thread topic, wouldn't it?
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Old 06-07-11, 07:41 AM
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See my post on this thread, post # 6
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...st-Buy-for-50-.

< $50 for both head and taillight. Downside: 3 weeks delivery.
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Old 06-07-11, 09:06 AM
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My minewt minis work really well, about $90 each. Wouldn't ride with anything less.
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Old 06-07-11, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by gear
The first time headlight buyer is faced with two choices. 1.) purchase an expensive but perfect lighting system. or 2.) purchase multiple cheap lighting systems (replacing them as they crap out) and getting frustrated till you break down and purchase the expensive but perfect lighting system you should have got to start with. Guess which choice ends up being more economical?
lol, totally... :-)

My other two favorites:

1. They seem to have taken a look at bike light prices, and decided that to "get a good deal" they're not willing to pay more than 20% less than the least expensive light they saw.

2. When people recommend cheap lights that require constantly replacing their parts and technical know-how to the new and inexperienced commuter. Posts are usually filled with lots of adjectives - "This light only cost me $50 - shipped! And all I have to do is order replacement cables every 6 months, but they're only $5 from this special link, and replace them using a screwdriver and a soldering gun, and sure they go out every time I hit a bump but it's not a big deal, I just stop 5 or 6 times on my commute to open up the light and re-seat the batteries, and getting the magic unicorn dust every 2 months to recharge the batteries isn't a big deal you just have to fight a dragon but that's easy, besides everyone has a welding shop in their basement like I do right?".
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Old 06-07-11, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tarwheel
You can spend anywhere from $20 to $500+ on front lights. The more expensive lights will provide more brightness and better run times, but you can get very effective lighting for minimal bucks.
Originally Posted by gear
More brightness (a wider light pattern that shines well in front of even the fastest rider), better run times, connectors you can count on (no sudden outages just as you are descending), better mounts (that won't break when you crash or drop the bike), better battery setups (pulling batteries out every time you need a charge will wear out the battery holder in no time), more reliable in wet conditions, just about every aspect of the system will function better and last longer.
The Smart light my SO brought over from England and the NiteRider Classic I bought from Performance Bike are "better" lights. For less, lots less than half the cost my MagicShine spanks them both. Soundly. There is no guarantee that spending more money will get you a better light. It might, but it is not an automatic truism. The LED version of the NiteRider costs $562 and is not quite as bright as a MS. You guys are nutz if you think I can spend more money for a headlight than the bike it is throwing photons for! Spending $20 is one thing, spending $100 is quite another. How many lumens do you get out of a car headlight? Need I say more?

H
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Old 06-07-11, 08:15 PM
  #43  
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I have a 'P7' light from DealExtreme.com and a Planet bike 3W 'blinkie' headlight. I think most people would be happy with the P7 light, although on high the runtime is a bit low. I use it on medium because that's all I need. The blinkie is my 'be seen' headlight and I use it in strobe mode.
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Old 06-07-11, 08:47 PM
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So, where would a Lumotec IQ Cyo T fit into all of this? It is only rated at 40 lumens on the pavement -- this is now sounding like a "bad" deal, since it doesn't throw a few hundred lumens onto the pavement. Can someone enlighten me? I was under the impression I was getting a decent commuter light with this hub dynamo powered light. Ruh roh!
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Old 06-07-11, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jpatkinson
So, where would a Lumotec IQ Cyo T fit into all of this? It is only rated at 40 lumens on the pavement -- this is now sounding like a "bad" deal, since it doesn't throw a few hundred lumens onto the pavement. Can someone enlighten me? I was under the impression I was getting a decent commuter light with this hub dynamo powered light. Ruh roh!
It's rated at 40-60 lux, depending on your model. Lux is an entirely different measurement of light than lumens. I believe it's 200-300 lumens.
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Old 06-07-11, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Leisesturm
The Smart light my SO brought over from England and the NiteRider Classic I bought from Performance Bike are "better" lights. For less, lots less than half the cost my MagicShine spanks them both. Soundly. There is no guarantee that spending more money will get you a better light. It might, but it is not an automatic truism. The LED version of the NiteRider costs $562 and is not quite as bright as a MS. You guys are nutz if you think I can spend more money for a headlight than the bike it is throwing photons for! Spending $20 is one thing, spending $100 is quite another.
I see. So...in your opinion, the ability to see where you're going - not worth more than $20. Yes?

I mean personally, being able to see in front of my is worth more. But you know, I don't like breaking arms and collarbones, and don't like crashing into things. Some people are into that sort of stuff.

Originally Posted by Leisesturm
How many lumens do you get out of a car headlight? Need I say more?
Yes, you probably should say more, as that makes no sense at all.

P.S. Well, the truth is that if you're only biking on well lits streets you don't really need a light, so a $20 light that lets others see you is fine. It's when the streets aren't very well lit, where you're trying to fill in the gaps between lights while your eyes have adjusted to oncoming car headlights or even just streetlights that it's a problem. Lighting is very strange - intermittent lighting is what's the worst. Complete lighting or no lighting at all requires a less powerful light.
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Old 06-07-11, 10:16 PM
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I use these work great and use 4AA in the EL530 and the tail uses 2 AA
https://www.lickbike.com/productpage....=%273334-00%27
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Old 06-07-11, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulRivers
Lighting is very strange - intermittent lighting is what's the worst. Complete lighting or no lighting at all requires a less powerful light.
This is why I don't like street lighting in general; it tends to be a half-measure with high glare and big dark patches. When I'm riding the backroads, the Bell Radian is plenty, but in town I often have to click on the extra headlight and sometimes the helmet light to deal with the shadowed areas.
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Old 06-07-11, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Leisesturm
How many lumens do you get out of a car headlight? Need I say more?
1550 Lumens for the average car headlight x 2 on low beam. . You don't need to say more, we know you're uninformed :-).
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Old 06-08-11, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by CCrew
1550 Lumens for the average car headlight x 2 on low beam. . You don't need to say more, we know you're uninformed :-).
If you weren't so occupied trying to be a smartarse you would realize we are on the same side of the argument. A MagicShine does not cost $20. So by owning one, as well as the NiteRider Classic ($200). I think I have proven beyond any doubt that I put a priority on seeing at night. And asking about car headlight output was an attempt to get cyclists to get out of the "less is more" mindset and instead dream bigger than 1/2 watt Planet Bikes etc.

H
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