Anyone ever break their own valve stem?
10-17-11, 05:24 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Florida
Posts: 1,581
Bikes: 2017 Kona TI, 2016 Bike Friday Haul-A-Day, 2015 Bike Friday New World Tourist (for sale), 2011 Mezzo D9, 2004 Marin Mount Vision Pro - for now :)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 103 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
10-17-11, 05:32 AM
#27
Galveston County Texas
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In The Wind
Posts: 33,223
Bikes: 02 GTO, 2011 Magnum
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1350 Post(s)
Liked 1,245 Times
in
623 Posts
Valve strain is common and can be especially bad when using a small hand pump when you are on the road. With a tire levers or some similar object you can actually avoid valve strain quite easily. Simply stack the lever(s) on the ground and as you pump it takes away the strain. You can see an example here.
__________________
Fred "The Real Fred"
Fred "The Real Fred"
10-19-11, 07:37 PM
#28
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 469
Bikes: Lotus Odyssey - Shogun 400 - '75 Raleigh Tourist - Raleigh Grand Prix - Gitane Tour de France- Schwinn Le Tour - Univega Maxima Sport (winter bike) Trek 950
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
One morning after pumping up as I was delicately spinning the knurled bit I unexpectely sneezed.
See title of thread
See title of thread
10-20-11, 12:01 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Gaseous Cloud around Uranus
Posts: 3,741
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
7 Posts
I use Schrader valves......I don't think I'm strong enough to pull a tube through that little hole....
10-20-11, 05:53 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 273
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yeah, I've seen heated arguments on BF over which is the best valve: Schrader vs. Presta. I've mostly dealt with Presta lately though my 4-5 usable bikes are about half and half schrader/presta (The bike I've been riding the most lately actually has a Schrader setup on the back wheel and a Presta setup on the front). I've learned to deal with presta valves successfully (and it would be a bit of a hassle/expense to change everything over to schrader at this point) but if I could snap my fingers and have eveything I have be schrader (and without the possibility of giving up rim integrity in the skinnier rims) I would. I've never torn a schrader valve out, nor have I ever even feared that to be a possibility of happening.
10-23-11, 07:22 PM
#31
$ sudo shift
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Diego, California USA
Posts: 144
Bikes: 2008 Dahon Curve SL | Some type of 20-inch foldie
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The reason why I broke the valve stem was not due to pressure or leaning of the pump. But due to the thread catching the pump head somehow and me pulling on it with too much force.
Comparing Schwalbe Tube to Innova Tube by sudoshift, on Flickr
Recently replaced the tires and tubes with Schwalbes and I notice no resistance with the new Schrader Schwalbe valve stem. The Topeak Road Morph pops on and off with ease.
I DID brake my Curve SL's presta valve stem thin wirey piece due to pumping with a short topeak pump and weird angle. Lazyness did that one. But the valve still works and even at its shortened length can still pump air into tire. Moral of the story is don't let me pump your tires haha.
Comparing Schwalbe Tube to Innova Tube by sudoshift, on Flickr
Recently replaced the tires and tubes with Schwalbes and I notice no resistance with the new Schrader Schwalbe valve stem. The Topeak Road Morph pops on and off with ease.
I DID brake my Curve SL's presta valve stem thin wirey piece due to pumping with a short topeak pump and weird angle. Lazyness did that one. But the valve still works and even at its shortened length can still pump air into tire. Moral of the story is don't let me pump your tires haha.
10-23-11, 08:20 PM
#32
Senior Member
Presta is better. If for no other reason than you don't have to pump against a spring to fill the tire.
J.
J.
10-25-11, 04:28 AM
#33
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Foat Wuth, Tx
Posts: 3
Bikes: Specialized TriCross, Civia Bryant
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Somehow I managed to do that while putting the chuck on the valve, not just pulling it off. So after having it happen on 2 different bikes (front & back tires), I've started cutting a square out of the ruined tube, make a small hole in it & putting it around the valve like a tire boot. Didn't feel any burrs around the hole in the rims, but figured it couldn't hurt anything...and now to jinx myself...so far I've been lucky and it hasn't happened again (yet).
10-25-11, 09:40 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,687
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1126 Post(s)
Liked 253 Times
in
204 Posts
Tube manufactures are not making the interface between the tube and the valve as strong as they use to so they can save a penny or two. In that pursuit of cheapness the valves do rip easier. In response to that problem pump manufactures have slowly been rolling out more and more mini and semi mini pumps with a hose so as to remove the stress a direct connect pump places on the valve. The best hose semi mini pump on the market for the money is by far the Topeak Road Morph G; I have that pump and the Lyzene and I find the Topeak to be the more efficient for pumping air, though the Lyzine looks nicer and is a bit lighter.
10-25-11, 11:12 AM
#35
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
Yup, happened to me last night.
I put a new wheel (with dynamo hub, and and new LED lights) and new tube and tire on my son's bike. Pumping up the front wheel changed the way the bike was leaning, and it fell over before I could grab it or get the pump off. Brand new tube, the little screwie on top of the presta valve broke off, and it's totaled.
I looked around for someone to blame it on, but found only myself.
I put a new wheel (with dynamo hub, and and new LED lights) and new tube and tire on my son's bike. Pumping up the front wheel changed the way the bike was leaning, and it fell over before I could grab it or get the pump off. Brand new tube, the little screwie on top of the presta valve broke off, and it's totaled.
I looked around for someone to blame it on, but found only myself.
10-25-11, 02:22 PM
#36
Senior Member
The way I solved this pretty much for me is to take all my pumps and convert their heads over to the Silca head like this:
I've never damaged a presto valve with these in all the decades I've been using them. Whenever I've used any of the pumps that have flip levers to lock them, I have had problems and broken valves.
That said, I also only ride tubulars now and they all have valve cores than can be replaced in the unlikely event I ever broke one.
J.
I've never damaged a presto valve with these in all the decades I've been using them. Whenever I've used any of the pumps that have flip levers to lock them, I have had problems and broken valves.
That said, I also only ride tubulars now and they all have valve cores than can be replaced in the unlikely event I ever broke one.
J.
