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  1. #1
    Donating member Richard D's Avatar
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    Fixing a rear light to a rack

    Recent talk of racks reminds me -

    Has anyone come up with a neat and secure method of fixing a rear light to a Blackburn Rack? The supplied folded soft aluminium strip isn't ideal.

    Richard
    Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Hi Richard
    Achieve your goals: Attitude is everything:

  3. #3
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    Hi Richard
    Sorry about the above error.
    I use a topeak rack mule rack, it has a quick release reflector mount that works like a seat post clamp. It's really neat and works great, I removed the reflector and mounted my night rider tail light to the mount. Now I can easily change the lighting system from bike to bike or just remove it altogether. With no tools, and only takes about 1 minute to do.
    Pete
    Achieve your goals: Attitude is everything:

  4. #4
    The Flying Scot chewa's Avatar
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    Aug 2001
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    North Queensferry Scotland and London (and France)
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    Custom 531c fast tourer/audax, 1964 Flying Scot Continental, 1995 Cinelli Supercorsa, Holdsworth Mistral single speed, Dahon Speed 6 (folder), Micmo Sirocco
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    Meccano strip and a screw into the light body.
    plus je vois les hommes, plus j'admire les chiens

    1985 Custom built 531c Audax/fast tourer.
    1964 Flying Scot Continental
    1995 Cinelli Supercorsa
    1980s Holdsworth Mistral fixed
    2005 Dahon Speed 6 (folder)
    (YES I LIKE STEEL)
    2008 Viking Saratoga tandem
    2008 Micmo Sirocco Hybrid (aluminium!)
    2012 BTwin Rockrider 8.1

  5. #5
    Life is good RonH's Avatar
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    Jan 2001
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    Between Crystal River and Hernando, Florida, 6 miles west of the Withlacoochee Trail
    My Bikes
    I've had several since 1999 but have settled on my beloved 2001 Litespeed Tuscany and my latest, a 2013 Cannondale CAAD 10.
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    Richard,
    I went to a hardware store and bought a 1-1/4" wide x 1/8" thick x 3 feet long aluminum strip.
    I cut two pieces, one about 3" long and one about 6" long. I drilled holes to mount the 6" piece to the 3" piece to form a "T". Then I drilled holes to mount my lights. Afterward I bent the 3" strip so the top of the "T" was facing the rear. It's kinda hard to see in this picture.
    The two red lights are mounted to the 6" strip.
    The clear light (strobe) is mounted on the cheap metal piece you mentioned. I'm replacing it this weekend.

    Let me know if you need more details. Maybe I can make a drawing and post it.

    My bikes --> 2001 Litespeed Tuscany---2013 Cannondale CAAD 10 2 (5) "Racing Edition"

    Life is like a 10-speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use. ~ Charles Schultz

  6. #6
    Life is good RonH's Avatar
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    I've had several since 1999 but have settled on my beloved 2001 Litespeed Tuscany and my latest, a 2013 Cannondale CAAD 10.
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    Here is a simple drawing of how the light mount looks.
    My bikes --> 2001 Litespeed Tuscany---2013 Cannondale CAAD 10 2 (5) "Racing Edition"

    Life is like a 10-speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use. ~ Charles Schultz

  7. #7
    Sumanitu taka owaci LittleBigMan's Avatar
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    Is it possible to use a hose clamp and cable ties? I don't have a rack anymore, but I use the above combination to secure blinkies on my handlebars and on my seatpost.

    If there is a tubular area with a large enough diameter, attach a small hose clamp to it. Loop several cable ties through both the clamp and the blinkie. A section of rubber cut from an old tire tube, used as a sleeve for the cable ties, will secure the blinkie snugly and prevent the hose clamp from cutting into the cable ties.
    No worries

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    My Eclipse blinkie came with a very effective seatpost mounting, just a plastic hose-clip thing. They even threw in a spare to mount on another bike.

    You can fit lights onto fenders. SKS even have metallic strips to make electrical connections. Some LED blinkies come in fender-fitting form. See Busch & Muller for good models.

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