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  1. #1
    Senior Member nashvillwill's Avatar
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    How do I fully lube/clean?

    Hi guys/gals. I have a day off and plan to spend it doing a full over on my ride. But I will show my newbieness here by saying that I don't even know where to start. What all do I need to lube? I keep my chain clean, but I don't lube a lot of other parts. So here is a Multi part question. BTW, my bike is a 2010 Globe Vienna 3 Disc http://http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2010&Brand=Specialized&Model=Vienna+3+Disc&Type=bike#.UN5yvb-9JaC

    What all do I need to lube?
    Is there a checklist of things to hit?
    Are there things I don't need to lube since my bike has certain modern parts like sealed hubs and such?
    Is there a certain type of lube to hit certain parts with?
    Anything to avoid?


    Im sure Sheldon Brown has a page on this, but i like to hear various opinions. I've spent a little time wrenching on my bike, but never really given her a full over clean and lube. I hope you guys can point me in the right direction.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    In the right lane gerv's Avatar
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    If the weather is pretty dry, I'd recommend Finish Line Dry. Actually, it's even pretty good after light rains.


  3. #3
    Captain Big Ring tractorlegs's Avatar
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    I use Nashbar Dry Lube on the chain weekly. It doesn't attract dirt and the drivetrain stays clean. I've never lubed anything else, pivots or cables or anything else - but I'm probably crazy. If you don't mind a dirty dirt-magnet bike, TriFlow is a good lube too but it attracts grit and grime and gives you chain tats.
    Quote Originally Posted by I-Like-To-Bike
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Worknomore's Avatar
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    I thoroughly wash my chain in agitated mineral spirits, hang and blow off link by link with compressed air. I then lube with home made pro link consisting of 90wt synthetic gear lube greatly thinned with mineral spirits with a precision needle oiler. http://www.mcmaster.com/#needle-oilers/=kswivu. somewhat tedious and time consuming but my drive train stays clean attracting very little crud since I apply very little lube in the right place. My drivetrain lasts a long time and I ride a lot on dirt roads.
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  5. #5
    ouate de phoque dramiscram's Avatar
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    I brush all the dirt with a smouth nylon brush, and lub de drive-train with a spray syntetic lub (Mr. Wrench) I've already put 12000 kms on the bike in the last two years with no mechanical problems.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member nashvillwill's Avatar
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    Maybe I wasn't very clear. I'm not talking about the drivetrain. I'm talking about cables and hubs and frame parts and whatnot. Any suggestions there?

  7. #7
    Captain Big Ring tractorlegs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Worknomore View Post
    I thoroughly wash my chain in agitated mineral spirits, hang and blow off link by link with compressed air. I then lube with home made pro link consisting of 90wt synthetic gear lube greatly thinned with mineral spirits with a precision needle oiler. http://www.mcmaster.com/#needle-oilers/=kswivu. somewhat tedious and time consuming but my drive train stays clean attracting very little crud since I apply very little lube in the right place. My drivetrain lasts a long time and I ride a lot on dirt roads.
    Wow! That's a lot of work for a chain!
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  8. #8
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    Quote Originally Posted by tractorlegs View Post
    I use Nashbar Dry Lube on the chain weekly. It doesn't attract dirt and the drivetrain stays clean. I've never lubed anything else, pivots or cables or anything else - but I'm probably crazy. If you don't mind a dirty dirt-magnet bike, TriFlow is a good lube too but it attracts grit and grime and gives you chain tats.
    I use triflow on my chains and they stay pretty clean... but i'm not adding lube every week.. more like every few months
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashvillwill View Post
    Maybe I wasn't very clear. I'm not talking about the drivetrain. I'm talking about cables and hubs and frame parts and whatnot. Any suggestions there?
    It was clear to me, it looked like they were responding to the wrong question.

    The only thing I do on a regular basis is the derailleur, cogs and chainrings. While you do the chain, these parts accumulate a lot of crud. I don't do cables unless they start getting stuck, in which case I replace them. Hubs and BBs only need to be done if they are loose ball bearings, and I wouldn't do that without a quick lesson on the proper way to open them up and more importantly put them back together and properly adjust them.

    Take a rag to the cogs, working it between them. Use a toothbrush for the hard to reach areas. Some of us use citrus cleaner, some use mineral spirits. There are bike specific cleaners too from Pedros and Finish Line. Use whatever you feel comfortable with. Let everything dry thoroughly.

    Really the thing that gets the most dirty are the derailleur pulley wheels. Take the chain off and thoroughly clean them including inside the roller bearing. Apply waterproof grease to the bearing when putting it back together. Every time you do the chain give the pulleys a wipe.

    I clean the frame with a damp cloth or paper towels making sure not to grind the dirt into the paint, and dry it off. I wipe my caliper brakes down also. If you are mountain biking through mud you can use a garden hose to wash the whole thing off and then dry. That sounds drastic but clean water is a lot better than the dirty water it's already been through. Just don't force the water into the bearings.
    Last edited by zacster; 12-29-12 at 10:49 AM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Worknomore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashvillwill View Post
    Maybe I wasn't very clear. I'm not talking about the drivetrain. I'm talking about cables and hubs and frame parts and whatnot. Any suggestions there?
    Derailleur, brake, shifter pivots get lubed with the same home made brew maybe every other drive train service. Cables once a season. Hubs get repacked once a season on the commuter, less often on the other bikes. The steel frame bike gets a frame-saver treatment every few years. I don't ride too much in the rain but went I do my service increases. I keep all threaded fasteners get greased or anti seized any time they are dissembled (very important).
    Last edited by Worknomore; 12-29-12 at 11:04 AM.
    Litespeed Blue Ridge, Serotta Colorado CRL, Cannondale Delta-V, Bacchetta Ti-Aero

  11. #11
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    It depends what tools you have available, I think. It may not be the cheapest way to go about things, but I've always just bought the tools I need for anything I've needed to do, largely because I've enjoyed the process of learning how to do repairs myself. So if you have a bunch of bike tools or are willing to buy them, I'd say...

    1. Take off the wheels.
    2. Remove the chain. Watch a youtube video on how to do it. There are a few ways chains are connected, and you'll have to figure out which one you have (it's very easy if your chain has a master link).
    3. Remove the cassette from the back wheel. That takes a "cassette removal tool," a monkey wrench, and a "chain whip." It's easy with the tools, and you can find videos on youtube.
    (4. I've never done this because I'm too lazy. But you could take the chain rings off. I think you just need a screwdriver. I always just end up cleaning off the chain rings while they're on the bike.)
    5. Throw the chain, cassette, and chain rings in a bath of degreaser. Let it sit for a few minutes, and then scrub them. Then rinse them off and dry them.
    6. Wash the bike thoroughly in soapy water, and pay extra attention to the derailleurs. Rinse the soap off. Let the bike dry.
    7. Lube the derailleurs and brakes with chain oil. Wipe off the excess.
    8. Reassemble everything. Oil the chain. Done!

  12. #12
    Team Water Andy_K's Avatar
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  13. #13
    Fork and spoon operator
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    Oh, and cleaning and lubing the cables is easy by itself, but it requires adjusting the derailleurs and brakes afterwards. So cleaning cables and adjusting brakes/derailleurs sort of go together naturally. I wait until I need to either adjust them, or I feel the parts sticking, and then do those two tasks together.

  14. #14
    Fork and spoon operator
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    Oh, and last thing: adjusting the brakes sort of goes together naturally with truing the wheels, since you can't get a good brake adjustment with a wheel that isn't true. So I usually do those tasks together too.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Worknomore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tractorlegs View Post
    Wow! That's a lot of work for a chain!
    I suppose it is but to me worth the effort. I absolutely hate a dirty drive train and mine stays clean for a long time.
    Litespeed Blue Ridge, Serotta Colorado CRL, Cannondale Delta-V, Bacchetta Ti-Aero

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