In the spirit of Darth Lefty's thread on aerodynamics. I would like to inform the forum about a matter knee and dear to my heart. Saddle position. Specifically, the fore-aft location of the saddle, relative to the handlebars. From many, many posts in the very forum, over the years, a number of you use this dimension to adjust how much weight is placed on your handlebars. Posters complaining about numb hands are routinely advised to scoot their saddles backwards and this will improve their body position and thus relieve their numb, unresponsive, fingers.
I'm not going to argue this point. What I will say is this: a bicycle has potentially adjustable handlebars, stems and saddles. The saddle adjustments were intended for the optimization of power transfer from your body to the pedals. Any effect on hand comfort is incidental, and consequently should not be relied on as a best practice for achieving said comfort. Especially if it compromises the primary reason for saddle adjustment. Hand numbness is best addressed by adjusting handlebar height.
As your pedal rotates through its 360* circle, the point of maximum power transfer is the 3 o'clock position with the pedal moving downward. You want the main shaft of your shin to be as nearly vertical as possible at this point. If you have your saddle shoved backward as far as it can go, especially since most saddles have an inch or more of setback already built in to the design... this can put you seriously out of pedal power contention. You just aren't getting all the efficiency you could. Worse, you are now stretching for the handlebars. You didn't go out and buy a shorter stem because you moved your saddle back, did you? Of course not. So you unconsciously scootch forward on the saddle to reach the bars and thus sit forward of the part of the saddle meant to receive your taint, and even the most well designed anatomic saddle on the market cannot always compensate for such gross abuses of application.
The vast majority of the readers of this forum are males over 5'8" in height. We are sitting 30" or more over the bottom brackets of bicycles with a 73* slope to the seat-tube. Our hip joints are well behind a vertical line drawn through the bottom bracket and even further behind a vertical line drawn through the pedal spindle of a pedal in the three o'clock forward position. When in doubt, do not further increase this distance without having a good reason why. Hand pain is NOT a good reason. Knee pain? Well, now you're talking, but, I submit, if knee's are aching, a decrease in the distance to the pedal is likely the thing to try first. KOPS- Knee Over Pedal Spindle. I'm a believer. Set your saddle height first, get your knee over the pedal spindle and then put your handle bars a comfortable distance away. I like mine so my middle finger can just reach the bars with my elbow on the nose of the saddle. This isn't scientific it just is a dimension I can transfer to other bikes I may ride. Handlebar height can be anything from seat height to 2" above seat height. This is with flat bars.
The important takeaway is that saddle position should be used to control your power delivery and knee comfort, and handlebar/stem adjustments should be used to control your upper body and hand comfort. If something hurts, don't be stoic. Fuss with your fit until the pain goes away. Commuting shouldn't cripple. That's all I've got. For now.