blastro

I commute about 7 miles a day. Bike is a Marin San Rafael (https://www.marinbikes.com/2008/us/bi...SAN-RAFAEL.jpg).

The roads in my city (Providence RI) being torn up all over the place, to the point where I have engaged the shock, which robs my pedaling force. When it is not engaged the ride on the aluminum frame is pretty stiff. I am big guy (5'11", 250) plus a bag for work so I am feeling every bump.

I am thinking about getting a bike that is a little more suited to strictly commuting, but I have some questions for the experts, one of which I am decidedly not.

1) Would a steel frame be a better ride?

2) Are disc brakes an advantage?

3) I don't think a single speed is going to work given the hills in PVD and my weight. However, I am intrigued by internal hubs. Are they worth it?

4) I am used to the rise bar but the width is a liability in traffic. Drops scare me (how am I going to grab the brake in time?) a little bit, should I be thinking about a flat bar?

5) Am I leaving out important considerations?

I park the bike outside during the day, but the area is pretty safe so I don't need to go super cheap. I've been looking at Surly, All City Jamis, Kona but may try to find a local shop to assemble.

fietsbob

I like my Bike Friday Pocket Llama *, equipped as it is with a Rohloff Hub , disc brakes,
front hub dynamo, LED Head and Taillights..

Figure 8 bend trekking bars, are quite grip shift friendly [R'off uses a 2 cable pull-pull gripshifter]

*heavy rider upgrade ..

As observed before tell me what brands are sold in your local bike shops?
do you have a favorite shop in town?

Good/or less is often the local assembly work, and service after the sale./ not the brand per se ..

blastro

There are just a few shops, mostly catering to the very high end or low end, not so much for commuters. Although I ride year round, bike commuting is not that big in the Northeast as, say, the west coast (USA I mean).

tsl

Possibly not.

Good frames--no matter what their material--ride well. Cheap frames--no matter what their material--ride cheap. It's design that matters more than material. My two commuters are aluminum. One of them rides as well as my titanium club bike. The harshest riding bike in my fleet? Reynolds 853 steel.

Sensibly-sized and sensibly-inflated tires make more difference than frame material, IME. See: Tire Drop

Finally, how you ride makes a huge difference. If you just plop yourself on the saddle like a living room chair, you're going to feel every bump push the bike up against your weight, and feel yourself crash down against the saddle when the bike drops into potholes. It's hard on you, and hard on the bike.

Your legs and arms make a superior suspension system because they're connected to your brain, which allows proactive use rather than just reactive movement in bike suspension systems.

Knees and elbows bent, lift yourself off the saddle only an inch or two and let the bumps push the bike up to you. Let the bike drop into potholes by only its own weight. Viewed from the side as you speed on by, your head, butt and everything in between should cruise along in a nice, straight, level line, while the bike tracks the bumps and potholes beneath you. Arms and legs keep the two connected and copacetic.

Only if you routinely ride in the wet and snow. Otherwise, stick with lighter, cheaper rim brakes. For occasional rain use--like in mis-judging the forecast--Kool-Stop's salmon-colored brake pads are just fine. My all-seasons, all-conditions commuter has disc brakes. My other three bikes--including my three-seasons commuter--don't.

I've never owned an IGH, so I'll pass.

A drop bar bike should be fitted to you so that your default, most-comfortable, ride-there-97%-of-the-time position is on the lever hoods, with the levers right at your fingertips. If that position is higher and/or closer than the fashionistas dictate, so be it. All my bikes--including my rain and snow bike--are drop bar.

Rack and fender mounts.

Lighting systems--possibly a dynamo hub.

Pay attention to wheels. You never want to call the boss to say you're running late or won't be in at all because you broke a spoke on your bicycle. (This applies to tires and flats as well.)

If you're building up the bike (and it seems you are), get custom wheels, hand-built, and specified for your weight and riding conditions. My four-seasons commuter came with cheap-azz wheels. It was 8,000 miles of hell before I could afford new ones. The new ones are 32-spoke, three-cross laced to wider (24mm) rims with eyeletted spoke holes, and I went with a dynamo hub in front to power the lights. Pure heaven. Four years and 7,000 miles later, they've never needed truing, let alone spoke replacement. For you, consider 36 or 40 spokes in the rear.

no1mad 

I'll add to what has already been stated.

If you haven't tried drop bars before and concerned about hand placement for braking, you can install interrupter levers. This allows you to activate the brakes from the hoods, the hooks, and the top.

Also, as to the width of the flat/riser bar being a disadvantage in traffic, you could always cut them down a bit. Just slide your controls in a little at a time until you find a spot you like and then make your cut.

Jaywalk3r

In principle, yes. In real world use, other factors will have a bigger effect on ride quality.

Yes. Disk brakes work well in wet weather, while rim brake performance is significantly reduced. The need to stop quickly from time to time doesn't go away just because it's raining.

A good IGH will be reliable, more durable than derailer gears, and can be shifted while stopped.

Experiment and find what you like. You can always cut a bit off each end of your current bar to make it narrower. Try a little bit at a time, though, because you can't put the material back on if you go too far.

Fenders, a rack, and quality street tires.

rms13

All I can add is that I recently got a Surly Cross Check for my commuter and love it. Very comfortable on chewed up/always under construction city streets that I commute on. The stock drop bars are pretty wide and flare out so you might not like that. I usually take the lane when riding and don't try to split lanes in between traffic so I'm not concerned about width. I also second the recommendation of coming out of the saddle when going over bumps, pot holes and train tracks, it makes a huge difference.

And for how utilitarian the bike is, I took it out on a group ride yesterday and I was 2nd of 7 guys the whole ride with my steel frame, rack on the back and 700x32 cross tires on it while every other guy had much more expensive light Cannondale, Bianchi, Fuji and Specialized road bikes with 700x23 tires and carbon fiber bottle cages

fietsbob

well if a suggested brand is not available where you shop , are you going to drive out of the area to get it?
to get service after the sale you will have to go back to that particular shop.

Better to consider the brands represented by your favorite Retail shop..
(a handfull of big factories make several brands for different Importers)

Ask what other models they can Order through their suppliers
if you dont find the one you seek sitting on the sales floor when you walk in.

they may have sold the same bike last week, just have not restocked it.

most every brand has a Hybrid .. Trek has 2 lines
one made around having a Suspension Fork, the other to have a shorter regular fork.



so limiting to Type .. Wheel size preference drop or straight bars ?

Example : Cyclocross is the drop bar type *, hybrid is the straight bar type . same sort of 700c wider wheel-type.

* though top end of this category will be for CX Racing and lack places for racks and Mudguards to fit.

Disc brake fittings are coming on many of this type.

lots of people like 700c 32 or 37 ~ ish wheel types..

so Sturmey Archer or Shimano Alfine disc IGH in a Hybrid , may be what you would like ..
No Idea if any of the unstated bike brand companies have any in their line up.
since you declined to say .

all else get something close to what you like then change the parts over
that you dont find as is.
they are largely interchangeable ..

brand is on the frame the rest is made by someone else.

rms13

a lot of the bikes you are looking at are available on line as frames/framesets so you can always buy that and have a LBS build it up for you.

blastro

I don't know much about wheels at all. What is the advantage of custom wheels relative to the ride? Where does one go to get custom wheels made? About what do they cost?

rms13

https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...x&cPath=86_235

tsl

Off-the-rack wheels generally fall in two categories--those for racers, and those for the "average" rider. At 250, you're above average. And commuting is also above average in the wear and tear department.

The advantage to hand-built custom wheels is that the builder can rely on his experience, knowledge and expertise to select each individual part that goes into your wheels. They'll be strong enough to roll along over anything.

That factory set I wrote about above, they were constantly going out of true and breaking spokes. I even bent the rims on a pothole once. Another time they cracked and spokes started pulling through. They just weren't up to the daily rigors of urban commuting. And I weigh only 175. After suffering through several warranty replacements, I got smart.

Working with the builder at my LBS, we selected wider rims to fit wider tires. The rims are stronger too and have reinforcing eyelets in the spoke holes. Spokes are 32 DT Swiss Competition laced 3-cross with brass nipples. Brass nipples won't corrode to either the spoke or the rim. I ride straight through salt season, so corrosion-resistance is important to me. I went with the Shimano Alfine dynamo hub up front, and Velocity Road Disc hub in back. They've been absolutely bulletproof. I routinely carry 50-60 pounds of groceries on the back, putting overall weight up towards your range. Never a complaint.

Ask around at LBSs in your area and with other riders in your area about who is a good wheelbuilder. There's nearly always someone at an LBS who can build a set. The question is how skilled are they? That's where references come in. There are some internet builders too, but I don't know enough about any single one to make a recommendation.

Semi-custom, consider Handspun Wheels. You order through any LBS with a QBP account (nearly every LBS buys from QBP) and they're shipped to your LBS. They have stock wheels online and a way to specify your own. Price quote comes from your LBS.

Taking a quick look, I found these that could work for you: WE7246 with an Alfine dynamo hub for the front, and the WE7247. Both use the Velocity Dyad 24mm rim in black with reflective film, and 32 DT Comp spokes with brass nipples. These are essentially similar to what I bought. My rims are a slightly different model (now discontinued) and I used a road hub for derailleur gearing.

As for cost, the wheels on my four-seasons commuter were about $750 for the set, including disc brake rotors, which were about $100 right there as I recall.. The set on my three-seasons commuter were $385. I have a $600 set on my Ti club ride bike. My other bike suffers with factory builds.

fietsbob

Why do you feel a need to overspend right in the beginning?



be realistic, head to your favorite bike shop, talk directly to them.

sonatageek

Having never had the pleasure of nice custom built wheels, sometimes cheap off the shelf can get the job done. I have been running a set of Vuelta Zerolite mountain wheels for 6000 plus miles of rough roads and bumpy trails and they are still straight. I am about 190 pounds and carry another 5-15 pounds of stuff on a regular basis. The hubs are low end loose bearing Shimano and after the last service I am seeing a bit of pitting.

I spent more on the tires (I HATE flats) and so far this has been an effective low cost solution.

tsl

Fietsbob, clean your glasses. He said custom, not carbon. In fact, you're the first in this thread to use the C word.

bikemig 

Hard to beat a vintage mtb for commuting. They're relatively cheap and have stout wheels. I'd pick one up from CL and do whatever changes you need to make so that it is suitable for commuting.

fietsbob

Ok correction Noted.. & removed.. edit..

Then to offer , 'handSpun' is in a room at the MN warehouse Of QBP. They dont sell direct,
still have to go through channels , LBS.

asking how much is a custom wheel ? OK how much does dinner in a restaurant cost?
same thing, gotta look at the Menu first..

Commuting ,They, wheels , will be a consumable , might be better to get something pragmatic,

trash a wheel it wont set you back a wad .. if worried, get a spare rear wheel to replace,
to get to work the next day..

Yea Ive got some nice wheels , last bikes bought, came with them..
doubt the OP is in the Rohloff hub wheel Price-range .. Happened on a couple deals,
that I jumped on..

[$3600 trekking bike that isnt even imported to the US, used, shipped from NC owner for $2k,
bare hub retails for 75%+ Of that]

Ozonation

How much are you looking to spend?

blastro

Good question. I spent $500 on my Marin and considered that expensive in 2008. After 5 years of commuting and parts replacement, I am thinking more in the just south of $2000 range. However, there is a LOT of crime in my city so I need to be mindful of that as well.

One of the reasons that I commute it that I have to pay my workplace for parking, about $800/yr. Add to that the cost of fuel and I might be able to justify the cost. I still need a car mind you.

fietsbob

Top of the range: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...eries/8_6_ds/#

$1,369.99

Or same SRP,
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes.../soho_deluxe/#

IGH, Belt drive..

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...ss/fx/7_7_fx/#

carbon frame @ $2k

neil

I feel like, custom-wheel wise, that I'd only be looking at going that route if you have a history of wheel problems. I would, however, make sure I bought from a reputable LBS, and specifically ask them to check the spoke tension. Also, definitely 36 spoke.

On your original questions:
1 - There may be a small difference in vibration, but no matter what metal you're riding, the frame isn't going to soak up much shock from bad roads.

2 - I've never been a disc brake owner, though I've ridden rental bikes with them. I'm not terribly convinced of their value in normal commuting applications (though I have wished I had them when my bike's been loaded for touring or hauling), but depending on your riding style, you may like them. For the record, I'm a little over 200lbs, and carry a fairly heavy pannier (maybe 20lbs) as part of my normal routine.

3 - I have no experience at all with internal hubs, but am also intrigued. Like the wheels, though, I would think of this as a "if it ain't broke..." type of extra.

4 - If you're riding so close to vehicles that the width of your handlebars is a problem, you should probably be less aggressive. There's so many handlebar options out there...if I were building a custom bike, I'd probably be looking at bullhorns or possibly trekking bars. I've gotten used to drops, and am not sure why you'd have trouble reaching the brakes. I usually ride on the brake hoods, so they're right there, and I also have interrupter levers if I'm using the flats.

blastro

Thanks for your comments neil. All of the comment on this thread have been helpful.

Spending a lot of time on this board over the last week, here's what I am thinking...

- The more I look the more is seems like the disks are not a no-brainer. Worth trying, but not essential. Have also read good stuff about cantilever brakes...

- AN IGH is kind of the same. Try it, but not essential.

- Steel is better suited to my needs.

- On test rides I really need to spend time with the drops. I had them as a teen and never since - time for a second look.

- Pannier and fender stays are essential. I put so much weight on the back tire, I think it's gotta be front panniers, preferably with a messenger type bag to carry my laptop and cables etc. Don't judge me because I like beer! :-)

Other takeaways...

- On my current bike I am rocking Continentals which have reduces my flats drastically. Will really pay attention to the wheels I am getting into.

- The local LBS is key. I gotta visit them all, and I have turned up a couple that I was unaware of so will be making the rounds.


Narrow streets, buses, cars two abreast - its easy to get in a tight spot. Look, this is Rhode Island. Come drive here, you'll see. No hands free law, people are free to text or talk and drive. I have seen drivers with iPads leaning on the steering wheel!.

blastro

Sorry for resurrecting this old post, but the search continues.

I have visited all of the local shops and then some. I've ridden a bunch of bikes. Kind of amazing how some of some of these shops are not at all concerned about requested features or sizing, just basically wanting to sell me what's on the sales floor.

The choice now is between three bikes. A Jamis Aurora, Surly Cross Check or Surly Cross Check single speed. The drops and bar end shifters will take some getting used to. The single speed with the flat(ish) bar just felt great, and I totally get the attraction of single speed. Really fun.

The trouble is, what's best for the long term? Can I deal with the single speed on my commute? Will I miss gears? Should I get the drops and add brake interrupters? I'm really flummoxed.

What do you all think?

rms13

I own a geared Cross Check and another fixed gear and I used to own a cheap single speed. I commuted on the single speed for about 6 months. It was fine but I can completely avoid any big hills on my commute. If you have hills you can't avoid it might suck. It's hard to get one gear ratio that is good for steep hills and cruising flats so you might end up walking it up hills (which is fine).

My Cross Check is not my primary commuter and utility bike. I bought it as a complete but I have switched out the bar end shifters for Retroshift and I added cross lever interrupters at the same time. In about a month of riding every day with this set up I've used the cross levers maybe 3 times and I could easily live without them but they were $20 and I paid my LBS to install everything so I figured I would just add that to the work. They charged me about $90 for the work and the parts were about $150 all in so keep those things in mind. If you don't want bar ends and you want interrupters maybe get a bike that has them.

tsl

The thing is that until you give it a go, you can't know what works best for you, long term. We've each just taken a stab at it to start, and learned what we like and don't like, what works for us, and what doesn't work for us. Not only are the details different for everyone here, but so are many of the generalities. It's all pretty personal.

I was pretty wrong about myself across the board when I started out. I didn't think I'd ride more than back and forth to work (4 miles R/T to one job and 6 miles R/T to the other at the time). I didn't think I'd ride very fast. I didn't think I'd ride in the rain, let alone the snow. I didn't think I'd ever give up my backpack. I didn't think I'd ever wear special cycling clothes.

I was wrong about myself on every one of those points. Yet, it turned out all right in the end. All you can do is make your best guess, and give it whirl.

You can find any number of opinions here, and any number of experiences to guide you, but the bottom line is that we only know what works for us. Just as you can't know yet what works for you, neither can we.

If you're finding the single-speed fun, then that may work out for you. There are lots of people here who commute on single-speeds and fixies. Gears? Who needs stinkin' gears? Well, me for one.

Personally, I like drops, but I know they're not for everyone. But if you do go with drops, forget about interrupter levers. Those were popular back in the 70s as a means to introduce drop bars to Americans who had never seen such a thing before and didn't know how to use them. They're still popular with those who don't have their bike set up properly.

The key to success with drop bars is to use the lever hoods as your default position on the bars. The bike should be fitted and adjusted so that this is your most comfortable position, not the bar tops. Then, you won't need interrupter levers, since you won't be riding the bar tops. If that position places the bars higher and closer than the fashion police dictate, eff 'em.

If the hoods are uncomfortable, they're in the wrong place.