winter commuting bike setup
#26
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I run a dedicated winter bike with a very simple set-up.
Rigid mountain bike with nokian studded tires, fenders and to make it even more simple it is a single speed coaster brake.
I don't have to worry about brake lines, pads freezing or gear issues, lines freezing etc.
In the Dakota's it can get sub zero temps with black ice, snow storms, hail you name it...
I also have a rack trunk with extra clothes, etc and run plenty of lights.
With my simple set-up I actually enjoy winter cycling. I am pedaling along while cars won't start, getting stuck and having trouble getting up hills.
My commute time does take twice as long but it is a good workout.
Rigid mountain bike with nokian studded tires, fenders and to make it even more simple it is a single speed coaster brake.
I don't have to worry about brake lines, pads freezing or gear issues, lines freezing etc.
In the Dakota's it can get sub zero temps with black ice, snow storms, hail you name it...
I also have a rack trunk with extra clothes, etc and run plenty of lights.
With my simple set-up I actually enjoy winter cycling. I am pedaling along while cars won't start, getting stuck and having trouble getting up hills.
My commute time does take twice as long but it is a good workout.
#27
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Here on the cloudy shores of Lake Ontario, my winters are a bit warmer than yours, but generally snowier.
#28
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I run a dedicated winter bike with a very simple set-up.
Rigid mountain bike with nokian studded tires, fenders and to make it even more simple it is a single speed coaster brake.
I don't have to worry about brake lines, pads freezing or gear issues, lines freezing etc.
In the Dakota's it can get sub zero temps with black ice, snow storms, hail you name it...
I also have a rack trunk with extra clothes, etc and run plenty of lights.
With my simple set-up I actually enjoy winter cycling. I am pedaling along while cars won't start, getting stuck and having trouble getting up hills.
My commute time does take twice as long but it is a good workout.
Rigid mountain bike with nokian studded tires, fenders and to make it even more simple it is a single speed coaster brake.
I don't have to worry about brake lines, pads freezing or gear issues, lines freezing etc.
In the Dakota's it can get sub zero temps with black ice, snow storms, hail you name it...
I also have a rack trunk with extra clothes, etc and run plenty of lights.
With my simple set-up I actually enjoy winter cycling. I am pedaling along while cars won't start, getting stuck and having trouble getting up hills.
My commute time does take twice as long but it is a good workout.
#29
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My 520 is in pretty rough shape actually. Safe but frame needs a little loving. Ex wife Locked it up in an open air garage half block from the Pacific Ocean while I was on a 6 month deployment. It also served as my commuter there and the joke goes your dog will rust on the coast if you are patient. That not the reason shes my ex btw. Needless to say, there is rust and am planning on giving it the powder coat treatment. So, would you still recommend beating up another lower end bike with that in mind? If its going to trash a frame, I'd rather it not be my 520 since it has become like another appendage of mine. I am going to have as good of a look on the inside as I can once the bb is removed to make sure there isn't obvious structural issues but I don't anticipate any.
I'm sure the Wakota bridge will.be plowed - that is not optional. I just rode over the not-yet-finished Hastings bridge the other day. I checked Mn DOTs website first, to see if it was even possible to bike accross. There was a little blurb on the walking/bike path that will be available once the bridge is finished. The reason they stated as to why there even IS a path is compliance with the Americans with Disabilities Act! I'm sure compliance with the ADA includes snow removal.
#30
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Yeah, didn't mention the chain. On my route in the winter, I just have to consider chains as disposable. It's completely impossible to keep them clean - a brand new chain, halfway through my ride will be caked in a mud/salt mush. If it sits for 12 hours, the chain will be a solid mass and I've had to actually get down and flex the chain with my gloved hands to get it to move again.
I basically just keep throwing lube on it until I can clean it, which sometimes takes weeks. The chain takes a lot of wear during that time. Another reason why I like using 7/8 speed systems - not only do they tolerate dirt and grime and still shift, but the chains can be had for six bucks, and I WILL be buying more chains for it than for the summer bike.
I basically just keep throwing lube on it until I can clean it, which sometimes takes weeks. The chain takes a lot of wear during that time. Another reason why I like using 7/8 speed systems - not only do they tolerate dirt and grime and still shift, but the chains can be had for six bucks, and I WILL be buying more chains for it than for the summer bike.
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#31
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Please tell me where to find these $6 chains so I can stock up!
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#33
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Nashbar when they're on sale. I bought a wad of them a few years back, they are at $15 right now but they may go on sale. I think I paid $5.99 at the time. I did notice that for some reason chains across the board seemed to jump in price quite a bit a couple of years ago.
Sub $10 seems pretty achievable on eBay. Amazon has multiple 6/7/8 speed chains for between $8 and $11
Sub $10 seems pretty achievable on eBay. Amazon has multiple 6/7/8 speed chains for between $8 and $11
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#34
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No one else seems to have replied with the winter road conditions along your route so I will do my best to provide what I know about your route. My winter commute is in Cottage Grove. My only rides into Woodbury and Newport would be after the roads are plowed for weekend rides or errands that can wait until the roads have been cleared and mostly on the county roads that have wide shoulders. Also I don't ride often in South St. Paul so I don't know what the plowing is like there.
The Bridge sidewalk along I494 I think would be plowed to comply with ADA.
The trails in Newport are plowed but I don't know when they plow them after it snow and if the Bailey hill trail is one that is plowed. I know Woodbury does not plow all its trails and it takes 3-4 days before the trails are plowed after a big snow. The plows used to clear the snow on the trails do not clear down to the pavement and leave about a 1/2 inch of snow. After a few snow falls the trails are quite rudded. Also the road plows throw snow chunks onto the trails. Remember this is Minnesota, the snow does not melt on the trails until spring. If you are planning on riding the trails in the winter a MTB might be the the choice.
Washington County clears its roads shoulder to shoulder. In the past they would have the county roads cleared by 6am but last year it wasn't until about 9am that all the roads would cleared. Woodbury takes longer to clear its streets then Newport and it could be a couple of days before all the streets are plowed. Also consider that you rarely will be riding in fresh snow unless your commute is a 3am. Once cars start driving on the road the snow on the side of the road will become dirty and "greasy" and while it is still snowing the plows will only be plowing the roadway and not the shoulders and you will be riding though deeper and dirtier snow on the shoulder.
For tire choice I would now choose at tire like the Nokian Hakkapeliitta.
On time it would take I agree with the 1/3 more time to ride in winter over summer is a good gauge but it only applies if the roads are cleared of snow. If you are riding through snow your speed could be as slow as a walking pace.
One last thing never ever ride up or down on the road on Bailey hill if it is snowing or there is snow on the road. There are many car crashes on this part of Bailey Rd. every winter.
The Bridge sidewalk along I494 I think would be plowed to comply with ADA.
The trails in Newport are plowed but I don't know when they plow them after it snow and if the Bailey hill trail is one that is plowed. I know Woodbury does not plow all its trails and it takes 3-4 days before the trails are plowed after a big snow. The plows used to clear the snow on the trails do not clear down to the pavement and leave about a 1/2 inch of snow. After a few snow falls the trails are quite rudded. Also the road plows throw snow chunks onto the trails. Remember this is Minnesota, the snow does not melt on the trails until spring. If you are planning on riding the trails in the winter a MTB might be the the choice.
Washington County clears its roads shoulder to shoulder. In the past they would have the county roads cleared by 6am but last year it wasn't until about 9am that all the roads would cleared. Woodbury takes longer to clear its streets then Newport and it could be a couple of days before all the streets are plowed. Also consider that you rarely will be riding in fresh snow unless your commute is a 3am. Once cars start driving on the road the snow on the side of the road will become dirty and "greasy" and while it is still snowing the plows will only be plowing the roadway and not the shoulders and you will be riding though deeper and dirtier snow on the shoulder.
For tire choice I would now choose at tire like the Nokian Hakkapeliitta.
On time it would take I agree with the 1/3 more time to ride in winter over summer is a good gauge but it only applies if the roads are cleared of snow. If you are riding through snow your speed could be as slow as a walking pace.
One last thing never ever ride up or down on the road on Bailey hill if it is snowing or there is snow on the road. There are many car crashes on this part of Bailey Rd. every winter.
#35
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KMC Z82 8-speed chain $7.03 at Ribble. Be sure to change both "Currency" and "Destination" in the upper right.
It doesn't pay to buy overseas like this unless you're stocking up, since the shipping runs between $22 and $25. I place a big order every winter to cover all my anticipated maintenance needs for the next year. Chains, cassettes, tires, cables, brake pads, replacement outerwear and clothing--usually around $300 of stuff to cover all the bikes.
Since it arrives Express Mail Overnight signature-required, I have the order sent to work. Packages arriving from exotic locations (or at least from the UK) brings thrills to my co-workers. So there's entertainment value as well.
It doesn't pay to buy overseas like this unless you're stocking up, since the shipping runs between $22 and $25. I place a big order every winter to cover all my anticipated maintenance needs for the next year. Chains, cassettes, tires, cables, brake pads, replacement outerwear and clothing--usually around $300 of stuff to cover all the bikes.
Since it arrives Express Mail Overnight signature-required, I have the order sent to work. Packages arriving from exotic locations (or at least from the UK) brings thrills to my co-workers. So there's entertainment value as well.
Last edited by tsl; 09-01-13 at 06:13 PM. Reason: typoz
#36
Senior Member
Nashbar when they're on sale. I bought a wad of them a few years back, they are at $15 right now but they may go on sale. I think I paid $5.99 at the time. I did notice that for some reason chains across the board seemed to jump in price quite a bit a couple of years ago.
Sub $10 seems pretty achievable on eBay. Amazon has multiple 6/7/8 speed chains for between $8 and $11
Sub $10 seems pretty achievable on eBay. Amazon has multiple 6/7/8 speed chains for between $8 and $11
KMC Z82 8-speed chain $7.03 at Ribble. Be sure to change both "Currency" and "Destination" in the upper right.
It doesn't pay to buy overseas like this unless you're stocking up, since the shipping runs between $22 and $25. I place a big order every winter to cover all my anticipated maintenance needs for the next year. Chains, cassettes, tires, cables, brake pads, replacement outerwear and clothing--usually around $300 of stuff to cover all the bikes.
Since it arrives Express Mail Overnight signature-required, I have the order sent to work. Packages arriving from exotic locations (or at least from the UK) brings thrills to my co-workers. So there's entertainment value as well.
It doesn't pay to buy overseas like this unless you're stocking up, since the shipping runs between $22 and $25. I place a big order every winter to cover all my anticipated maintenance needs for the next year. Chains, cassettes, tires, cables, brake pads, replacement outerwear and clothing--usually around $300 of stuff to cover all the bikes.
Since it arrives Express Mail Overnight signature-required, I have the order sent to work. Packages arriving from exotic locations (or at least from the UK) brings thrills to my co-workers. So there's entertainment value as well.
#37
Senior Member
This is the worst - the paths get cleared, then crap from the road gets thrown onto them, and frozen into place. I had many days last winter when I had to deal with this on certain parts of my ride. Riding in my lowest granny gear, I could just barely power though the crap on my Mtn bike. I don't think I could have done it on a road bike.
#38
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No one else seems to have replied with the winter road conditions along your route so I will do my best to provide what I know about your route. My winter commute is in Cottage Grove. My only rides into Woodbury and Newport would be after the roads are plowed for weekend rides or errands that can wait until the roads have been cleared and mostly on the county roads that have wide shoulders. Also I don't ride often in South St. Paul so I don't know what the plowing is like there.
The Bridge sidewalk along I494 I think would be plowed to comply with ADA.
The trails in Newport are plowed but I don't know when they plow them after it snow and if the Bailey hill trail is one that is plowed. I know Woodbury does not plow all its trails and it takes 3-4 days before the trails are plowed after a big snow. The plows used to clear the snow on the trails do not clear down to the pavement and leave about a 1/2 inch of snow. After a few snow falls the trails are quite rudded. Also the road plows throw snow chunks onto the trails. Remember this is Minnesota, the snow does not melt on the trails until spring. If you are planning on riding the trails in the winter a MTB might be the the choice.
Washington County clears its roads shoulder to shoulder. In the past they would have the county roads cleared by 6am but last year it wasn't until about 9am that all the roads would cleared. Woodbury takes longer to clear its streets then Newport and it could be a couple of days before all the streets are plowed. Also consider that you rarely will be riding in fresh snow unless your commute is a 3am. Once cars start driving on the road the snow on the side of the road will become dirty and "greasy" and while it is still snowing the plows will only be plowing the roadway and not the shoulders and you will be riding though deeper and dirtier snow on the shoulder.
For tire choice I would now choose at tire like the Nokian Hakkapeliitta.
On time it would take I agree with the 1/3 more time to ride in winter over summer is a good gauge but it only applies if the roads are cleared of snow. If you are riding through snow your speed could be as slow as a walking pace.
One last thing never ever ride up or down on the road on Bailey hill if it is snowing or there is snow on the road. There are many car crashes on this part of Bailey Rd. every winter.
The Bridge sidewalk along I494 I think would be plowed to comply with ADA.
The trails in Newport are plowed but I don't know when they plow them after it snow and if the Bailey hill trail is one that is plowed. I know Woodbury does not plow all its trails and it takes 3-4 days before the trails are plowed after a big snow. The plows used to clear the snow on the trails do not clear down to the pavement and leave about a 1/2 inch of snow. After a few snow falls the trails are quite rudded. Also the road plows throw snow chunks onto the trails. Remember this is Minnesota, the snow does not melt on the trails until spring. If you are planning on riding the trails in the winter a MTB might be the the choice.
Washington County clears its roads shoulder to shoulder. In the past they would have the county roads cleared by 6am but last year it wasn't until about 9am that all the roads would cleared. Woodbury takes longer to clear its streets then Newport and it could be a couple of days before all the streets are plowed. Also consider that you rarely will be riding in fresh snow unless your commute is a 3am. Once cars start driving on the road the snow on the side of the road will become dirty and "greasy" and while it is still snowing the plows will only be plowing the roadway and not the shoulders and you will be riding though deeper and dirtier snow on the shoulder.
For tire choice I would now choose at tire like the Nokian Hakkapeliitta.
On time it would take I agree with the 1/3 more time to ride in winter over summer is a good gauge but it only applies if the roads are cleared of snow. If you are riding through snow your speed could be as slow as a walking pace.
One last thing never ever ride up or down on the road on Bailey hill if it is snowing or there is snow on the road. There are many car crashes on this part of Bailey Rd. every winter.
#39
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I finally gave up and bought some Nokian W240s for my winter bike. I used W106s for the first few years and they were great but they couldn't climb out of ruts (no studs on the sides).
I used Marathon Winters for one year then sold them. The tread blocks on the Marathons go just from side to side, so if you're powering up a hill with snow cover and the road is crowned (this is several miles of my route) then the rear tire slips sideways half a foot or more every time I apply power. This made it very difficult to ride. The reflective sidewall got very dirty and when I tried to clean it up it didn't clean up much and was only really reflective for the first month or so.
I used Marathon Winters for one year then sold them. The tread blocks on the Marathons go just from side to side, so if you're powering up a hill with snow cover and the road is crowned (this is several miles of my route) then the rear tire slips sideways half a foot or more every time I apply power. This made it very difficult to ride. The reflective sidewall got very dirty and when I tried to clean it up it didn't clean up much and was only really reflective for the first month or so.
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#40
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As you can tell, there are lots and lots of good suggestions, and which work best will be pretty specific to the conditions on your route and your riding style. I ride 10 miles each way on relatively flat, usually well-plowed streets and bike paths. I need to make significant changes to my route in the winter to avoid unplowed paths, and you may find you need to do the same.
The typical MN winter commuting day is cold and dry. You might only be commuting a couple times a winter when it is actually snowing. Your route may be frozen, soft, or slushy depending on local plowing standards. Whatever the conditions, I find that fenders and studded tires are mandatory. A mudflap on the front fender will help keep stuff off your drive train.
But even more important than the bike is the clothing. Almost any studded tire bike will get you there eventually, but you'll either be frozen or a hot sweaty mess without the right clothes. You may find that it is hard to keep a balance between being cold and overheating--the front zipper on your jacket will get a lot of use. I swear by Novara headwind jacket and pants from REI--they're great wind stoppers in front, and breathe in the back--and with smartwool long underwear bottoms and a regular long sleeved jersey on top I'm good to about 15 degrees. Lower than that it's more or thicker layers, especially on the bottom. I can't use googles; my eyeglasses always fog after a few miles. A helmet cover and a thin balaclava to start; a heavier balaclava for later.
You will need good, well-insulated boots--I use Salomon Tactile; others swear by Lake or Wolvhammer. If you use clipless pedals, consider either making them _very_ easy to unclip with, or changing to minclips or powergrips for the winter. Maybe change your cassette to one with lower gears/wider range in the winter, too. (I think that 10 speed rear ends are more likely to freeze up; I've never had a problem with my 7-speed cassette.)
Can't overemphasize lighting. Lots of folks run a bright "to-see" light and a blinking "be seen" light both front and rear.
It's better for your bike if you store it outside in an unheated garage, say, than it is to bring it in and out of the cold every day. But as others have said, you'll need to clean it more, and you'll run through chains at a prodigious rate, especially during spring thaws.
But it will be fun. Really, really, fun!
The typical MN winter commuting day is cold and dry. You might only be commuting a couple times a winter when it is actually snowing. Your route may be frozen, soft, or slushy depending on local plowing standards. Whatever the conditions, I find that fenders and studded tires are mandatory. A mudflap on the front fender will help keep stuff off your drive train.
But even more important than the bike is the clothing. Almost any studded tire bike will get you there eventually, but you'll either be frozen or a hot sweaty mess without the right clothes. You may find that it is hard to keep a balance between being cold and overheating--the front zipper on your jacket will get a lot of use. I swear by Novara headwind jacket and pants from REI--they're great wind stoppers in front, and breathe in the back--and with smartwool long underwear bottoms and a regular long sleeved jersey on top I'm good to about 15 degrees. Lower than that it's more or thicker layers, especially on the bottom. I can't use googles; my eyeglasses always fog after a few miles. A helmet cover and a thin balaclava to start; a heavier balaclava for later.
You will need good, well-insulated boots--I use Salomon Tactile; others swear by Lake or Wolvhammer. If you use clipless pedals, consider either making them _very_ easy to unclip with, or changing to minclips or powergrips for the winter. Maybe change your cassette to one with lower gears/wider range in the winter, too. (I think that 10 speed rear ends are more likely to freeze up; I've never had a problem with my 7-speed cassette.)
Can't overemphasize lighting. Lots of folks run a bright "to-see" light and a blinking "be seen" light both front and rear.
It's better for your bike if you store it outside in an unheated garage, say, than it is to bring it in and out of the cold every day. But as others have said, you'll need to clean it more, and you'll run through chains at a prodigious rate, especially during spring thaws.
But it will be fun. Really, really, fun!
#41
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As you can tell, there are lots and lots of good suggestions, and which work best will be pretty specific to the conditions on your route and your riding style. I ride 10 miles each way on relatively flat, usually well-plowed streets and bike paths. I need to make significant changes to my route in the winter to avoid unplowed paths, and you may find you need to do the same.
The typical MN winter commuting day is cold and dry. You might only be commuting a couple times a winter when it is actually snowing. Your route may be frozen, soft, or slushy depending on local plowing standards. Whatever the conditions, I find that fenders and studded tires are mandatory. A mudflap on the front fender will help keep stuff off your drive train.
But even more important than the bike is the clothing. Almost any studded tire bike will get you there eventually, but you'll either be frozen or a hot sweaty mess without the right clothes. You may find that it is hard to keep a balance between being cold and overheating--the front zipper on your jacket will get a lot of use. I swear by Novara headwind jacket and pants from REI--they're great wind stoppers in front, and breathe in the back--and with smartwool long underwear bottoms and a regular long sleeved jersey on top I'm good to about 15 degrees. Lower than that it's more or thicker layers, especially on the bottom. I can't use googles; my eyeglasses always fog after a few miles. A helmet cover and a thin balaclava to start; a heavier balaclava for later.
You will need good, well-insulated boots--I use Salomon Tactile; others swear by Lake or Wolvhammer. If you use clipless pedals, consider either making them _very_ easy to unclip with, or changing to minclips or powergrips for the winter. Maybe change your cassette to one with lower gears/wider range in the winter, too. (I think that 10 speed rear ends are more likely to freeze up; I've never had a problem with my 7-speed cassette.)
Can't overemphasize lighting. Lots of folks run a bright "to-see" light and a blinking "be seen" light both front and rear.
It's better for your bike if you store it outside in an unheated garage, say, than it is to bring it in and out of the cold every day. But as others have said, you'll need to clean it more, and you'll run through chains at a prodigious rate, especially during spring thaws.
But it will be fun. Really, really, fun!
The typical MN winter commuting day is cold and dry. You might only be commuting a couple times a winter when it is actually snowing. Your route may be frozen, soft, or slushy depending on local plowing standards. Whatever the conditions, I find that fenders and studded tires are mandatory. A mudflap on the front fender will help keep stuff off your drive train.
But even more important than the bike is the clothing. Almost any studded tire bike will get you there eventually, but you'll either be frozen or a hot sweaty mess without the right clothes. You may find that it is hard to keep a balance between being cold and overheating--the front zipper on your jacket will get a lot of use. I swear by Novara headwind jacket and pants from REI--they're great wind stoppers in front, and breathe in the back--and with smartwool long underwear bottoms and a regular long sleeved jersey on top I'm good to about 15 degrees. Lower than that it's more or thicker layers, especially on the bottom. I can't use googles; my eyeglasses always fog after a few miles. A helmet cover and a thin balaclava to start; a heavier balaclava for later.
You will need good, well-insulated boots--I use Salomon Tactile; others swear by Lake or Wolvhammer. If you use clipless pedals, consider either making them _very_ easy to unclip with, or changing to minclips or powergrips for the winter. Maybe change your cassette to one with lower gears/wider range in the winter, too. (I think that 10 speed rear ends are more likely to freeze up; I've never had a problem with my 7-speed cassette.)
Can't overemphasize lighting. Lots of folks run a bright "to-see" light and a blinking "be seen" light both front and rear.
It's better for your bike if you store it outside in an unheated garage, say, than it is to bring it in and out of the cold every day. But as others have said, you'll need to clean it more, and you'll run through chains at a prodigious rate, especially during spring thaws.
But it will be fun. Really, really, fun!
Btw, what is a balaclava?
#44
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The typical MN winter commuting day is cold and dry. You might only be commuting a couple times a winter when it is actually snowing. Your route may be frozen, soft, or slushy depending on local plowing standards. Whatever the conditions, I find that fenders and studded tires are mandatory.
Now, most of the time it isn't a big deal. A lot of snowfalls are less than a couple of inches and won't affect riding much. But if it's sleeting or snowing pretty hard, - regardless of how much snow is on the ground, you'll want something to protect your eyes. If you're riding against the wind that soft fluffy snowflake can sting pretty good when smacks against your eyeballs.
Where I will agree with you is that there are only a couple times a year on average where it's snowing hard enough that I'll need to find another way to work or home.
Last edited by tjspiel; 09-03-13 at 08:31 AM.
#46
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So I really like my MKS lambda pedals for commuting on with boots; they seriously rock:
#48
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#49
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Yeah the DA crank is overkill for a beater bike (so is the wheel set with XT hubs) but that's what I had in my parts bin, . The MKS lambda pedals offer so much room that you always have a positive platform for your shoes; they beat any other platform pedal I've tried and they even look good mounted on a DA crank, .