Looking for hybrid pedals: platform + clipless
12-22-13, 12:33 AM
#26
bill nyecycles
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Make life easier-----get a pedal wrench.
I like those a lot. They are slick when damp, worse when wet. I used nail polish (cheap source of black enamel) to paint the platform side perimeter and sprinkled fine play sand on it, enough to have to catch what falls off. Paint a few patches on a paper plate and sprinkle sand on the paint to get an idea of how much to use. It works great. I don't know how long it lasts, I just did it bit ago.
Once they get used a bit the platform will stop on the down side as the bearings break in. It's no problem to either flip it with your toe or wait a crank revolution and you're on the platform. Most all of the time I use clips and I like it a lot that the clip side is usually up.
There.........................two major complaints of the A530 fixed.
Shoes, most of the mountain shoes work with SPD's. I have a pair for inclimate weather. I usually use a pair like these SPD road shoes, although not this years version and I can't remember the Model (around $80). Shimano shows the pair with the A600----don't worry, I used them with a pile of pedals that aren't A600s and they are fine. They a bunch lighter than my MTB shoes. Like light weight pistons for the motor!!
Once they get used a bit the platform will stop on the down side as the bearings break in. It's no problem to either flip it with your toe or wait a crank revolution and you're on the platform. Most all of the time I use clips and I like it a lot that the clip side is usually up.
There.........................two major complaints of the A530 fixed.
Shoes, most of the mountain shoes work with SPD's. I have a pair for inclimate weather. I usually use a pair like these SPD road shoes, although not this years version and I can't remember the Model (around $80). Shimano shows the pair with the A600----don't worry, I used them with a pile of pedals that aren't A600s and they are fine. They a bunch lighter than my MTB shoes. Like light weight pistons for the motor!!
as for shoes I think I'm leaning more towards something like these: https://bontrager.com/model/10989
or these https://www.pearlizumi.com/content/pe...-15113002.html
there are a few Shimano shoes, the CT-70, 45, and 40 that I like too, but is the "Click'r" cleat system different than the SPD system that works with the pedals I got?
12-22-13, 02:40 AM
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If you do not anticipate a lot of walking, SH-M087 is a good choice. Sole is fairly rigid, so walking is not peasant thing. I own one pair. I had SH-MT43 in my hands. It's a piece of rag with a sole. They do not arouse confidence, they look good only on the photos.
12-22-13, 03:22 AM
#28
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
I would give my vote to the M324 and the M424 is also a very decent double sided pedal for clipless or regular shoes because of the binding and it is good for off roading where you want to be able to clip in from either die quickly.
Have been using the M324 and various clones like the Wellgo for a long time and have been nothing but pleased... it is not hard to clip in and if you miss the clip in when you start you can still pedal comfortably until you spin the pedal. They also work quite well with barefoot shoes which I wear all the time in the summer.
As for shoes, a decent mtb shoe will recess the cleat and be a little more flexible than a road shoe... my touring shoes have a recessed cleat and are very comfortable to walk in as they are even more flexible. They are a half size bigger as I tend to wear a heavier sock with them and use them in cooler weather as well as in the nicer months.
Have been using the M324 and various clones like the Wellgo for a long time and have been nothing but pleased... it is not hard to clip in and if you miss the clip in when you start you can still pedal comfortably until you spin the pedal. They also work quite well with barefoot shoes which I wear all the time in the summer.
As for shoes, a decent mtb shoe will recess the cleat and be a little more flexible than a road shoe... my touring shoes have a recessed cleat and are very comfortable to walk in as they are even more flexible. They are a half size bigger as I tend to wear a heavier sock with them and use them in cooler weather as well as in the nicer months.
12-22-13, 07:38 AM
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Another company owned by Shimano…..Pearl Izumi makes some great shoes. I have wide feet, usually wear a 4E and was concerned my shoe choices were to be limited. I tried on a pair of Pearl Izumis at REI and they fit great. Mountain bike shoes, great fit, look like everyday hiking shoes, and are easy to walk in.
12-22-13, 07:43 AM
#30
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Aye. Picking one up tomorrow at the LBS.
Yeah I'm not worried about them being slick. I'll make it work. I don't ride with so much pressure to make my feet slip I don't think either. I'm a short light guy anyway. (5'5", 130 lbs).
as for shoes I think I'm leaning more towards something like these: https://bontrager.com/model/10989
or these https://www.pearlizumi.com/content/pe...-15113002.html
there are a few Shimano shoes, the CT-70, 45, and 40 that I like too, but is the "Click'r" cleat system different than the SPD system that works with the pedals I got?
Yeah I'm not worried about them being slick. I'll make it work. I don't ride with so much pressure to make my feet slip I don't think either. I'm a short light guy anyway. (5'5", 130 lbs).
as for shoes I think I'm leaning more towards something like these: https://bontrager.com/model/10989
or these https://www.pearlizumi.com/content/pe...-15113002.html
there are a few Shimano shoes, the CT-70, 45, and 40 that I like too, but is the "Click'r" cleat system different than the SPD system that works with the pedals I got?
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12-22-13, 07:52 AM
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Oh, also, do I need any special tools to put pedals on? I've never switched pedals before.
12-22-13, 11:31 AM
#32
bill nyecycles
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Another company owned by Shimano…..Pearl Izumi makes some great shoes. I have wide feet, usually wear a 4E and was concerned my shoe choices were to be limited. I tried on a pair of Pearl Izumis at REI and they fit great. Mountain bike shoes, great fit, look like everyday hiking shoes, and are easy to walk in.
Does REI pricematch Amazon?
I didn't see anyone mention the most important bit for someone who's never removed pedals -- the left pedal has left hand threading: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...-4-pw-5-hcw-16
Questions: Which is the left side and which is the right side? If I had to guess - I'd say you go by looking at the bike head-on from the front? So the left would be the drive side?
12-22-13, 11:44 AM
#33
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going to one LBS today to see if they have the Bontrager ones I posted. If not, I'll head to REI to see if they have the Pearl Izumis.
Does REI pricematch Amazon?
Thanks for this.
Questions: Which is the left side and which is the right side? If I had to guess - I'd say you go by looking at the bike head-on from the front? So the left would be the drive side?
Does REI pricematch Amazon?
Thanks for this.
Questions: Which is the left side and which is the right side? If I had to guess - I'd say you go by looking at the bike head-on from the front? So the left would be the drive side?
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12-22-13, 12:17 PM
#34
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I got this wrench that works on pedals and cassettes. Much easier than a 15mm combination wrench with the narrower profile and longer handle.
12-22-13, 01:28 PM
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Shoes depend on your expected use. If you do longish rides and then need to walk around a bunch, go for SPD shoes with recessed clips like the Shimanos listed above, or Pearl Izumis if you don't mind, or want, garish (IMO) colors. If you do shortish rides and need noncycling shoes afterwards, use the platform side of the pedals. If you use the same bike for long recreational rides with little walking, you may want shoes that have a stiffer sole and are therefore less comfortable to walk a lot in.
And, btw, remember that the left-footed pedal has left-handed threads (righty-loosey, lefty-tighty).
And, btw, remember that the left-footed pedal has left-handed threads (righty-loosey, lefty-tighty).
01-03-14, 02:40 PM
#37
bill nyecycles
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Ok so my shoes finally came in yesterday and I put the cleats on them and using the door frame got on the bike to figure out how to clip in and out before actually going for a ride.
is it normal to have to give a pretty good umph to get them to engage in the back? i also found it difficult to release them as well. it definitely required a vigorous twist of my ankle/leg. i loosened the tension screw on the back of the cage to basically its minimum and am having this difficulty still. didn't feel like i could get it to engaged at all when the tension was turned up how they came out of the box.
am i doing something wrong? do they just need to be worked in?
is it normal to have to give a pretty good umph to get them to engage in the back? i also found it difficult to release them as well. it definitely required a vigorous twist of my ankle/leg. i loosened the tension screw on the back of the cage to basically its minimum and am having this difficulty still. didn't feel like i could get it to engaged at all when the tension was turned up how they came out of the box.
am i doing something wrong? do they just need to be worked in?
01-03-14, 02:51 PM
#38
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are there spring tension adjustment screws , ? , back them off..
Nyet.. its like looking down at your own feet & shoes.
If I had to guess - I'd say you go by looking at the bike head-on from the front? So the left would be the drive side?
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-03-14 at 02:57 PM.
01-03-14, 10:28 PM
#40
bill nyecycles
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Ok so my shoes finally came in yesterday and I put the cleats on them and using the door frame got on the bike to figure out how to clip in and out before actually going for a ride.
is it normal to have to give a pretty good umph to get them to engage in the back? i also found it difficult to release them as well. it definitely required a vigorous twist of my ankle/leg. i loosened the tension screw on the back of the cage to basically its minimum and am having this difficulty still. didn't feel like i could get it to engaged at all when the tension was turned up how they came out of the box.
am i doing something wrong? do they just need to be worked in?
is it normal to have to give a pretty good umph to get them to engage in the back? i also found it difficult to release them as well. it definitely required a vigorous twist of my ankle/leg. i loosened the tension screw on the back of the cage to basically its minimum and am having this difficulty still. didn't feel like i could get it to engaged at all when the tension was turned up how they came out of the box.
am i doing something wrong? do they just need to be worked in?
