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Thread: longer fenders?

  1. #1
    Member aidzbelty's Avatar
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    longer fenders?

    Can anyone recommend me longer full coverage fenders that would lessen bottom bracket splash?

    I have the Axiom Roadrunner LX Reflex full coverage fenders on my bike and it's doing great in protecting me from splashes, but on the bottom bracket of my bike - not so much as I keep getting crud all over it this winter and it will be a concern should I opt for a mid-drive motor conversion.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Buzzatronic's Avatar
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    Swap out the mud flaps for longer ones. I use Buddy Flaps on two of my bikes. http://www.buddyflaps.com

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    so busy... fatso's Avatar
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    I've used buddyflaps as well, they help a lot. Currently, I'm using a rear fender up front (Velo Orange Zepplin's) and am very happy with the result.

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    tsl
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    SKS P-Series Longboards. Available in black or silver, and widths of 35, 45, 50, 55 and 65mm.

    I always liked SKS P-series fenders, except for their length. For 2014, SKS combined the best features of the P-Series with the Longboard length. I spent $45 to try them. The front one reaches down to just below two inches from the road surface. It makes a tremendous difference. This winter, not only were my BB, crankset, chain, RD, and cassette the cleanest they've ever been (bearing in mind that clean is a relative term) but so were my feet. So there are two more sets on order for three-seasons use.

    Note: The rear fender is too long for me to use. I have to move my bikes around at home and at work standing up on their back wheel, "bike shop style". The rear longboard is too long to allow this. So essentially, I spend $45 for just a front fender. I still consider it a deal.
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    PatronSaintOfDiscBrakes dynaryder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsl View Post
    Note: The rear fender is too long for me to use. I have to move my bikes around at home and at work standing up on their back wheel, "bike shop style". The rear longboard is too long to allow this. So essentially, I spend $45 for just a front fender. I still consider it a deal.
    Just chop the end off the fender and replace with a longer mudflap.

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    tsl
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    Quote Originally Posted by dynaryder View Post
    Just chop the end off the fender and replace with a longer mudflap.
    Yeah, I could. But why bother when the existing rear fender's length is appropriate? Far easier to just leave the new one in the box.
    My two favorite things in life are libraries and bicycles. They both move people forward without wasting anything.
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    Member aidzbelty's Avatar
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    I saw the SKS P45 Longboards and I finally found what I needed! Thank you!

    A bit curious though, how long exactly are the P-series and the P Lonboards? Any pictures perhaps to compare?

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    Dog is my co-pilot 2manybikes's Avatar
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    Most of the dirt on the bike comes from the bottom of the front wheel. A flap that almost touches the ground is the best way to handle this. When the flap is this long it needs to be very flexible to go over things. Two layers of mtb innertube folded back onto it self and super glued together in spots is the best. One layer of tube won't work it goes back tho the shape of the tube. I have a few of these some 15 years old and some with 10,000 miles. The soft tube will go up over snow. NO need to drill holes in the fender just wrap the top of the flap with stiff wire and crimp it over on the edge of the fenders. This way it can be removed, changed, or repaired just by un-crimping the wire. Mine look pretty good. 2many photos to find one right now.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  9. #9
    tsl
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    Quote Originally Posted by aidzbelty View Post
    I saw the SKS P45 Longboards and I finally found what I needed! Thank you!

    A bit curious though, how long exactly are the P-series and the P Lonboards? Any pictures perhaps to compare?

    No pictures, but measuring the front fender, the older P-35 (the Euro-spec one which I think is longer than the US one) rides about 7 inches above the road. The front P-45 Longboard rides just under two inches above the road.
    My two favorite things in life are libraries and bicycles. They both move people forward without wasting anything.
    The perfect day: Riding a bike to the library.—Peter Golkin


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  10. #10
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    .

    Honjo's are stupid long too. Pricey, but really pretty!
    ISO: 22" GT Rebound frame, year 2000 model

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsl View Post
    SKS P-Series Longboards. Available in black or silver, and widths of 35, 45, 50, 55 and 65mm.

    I always liked SKS P-series fenders, except for their length. For 2014, SKS combined the best features of the P-Series with the Longboard length. I spent $45 to try them. The front one reaches down to just below two inches from the road surface. It makes a tremendous difference. This winter, not only were my BB, crankset, chain, RD, and cassette the cleanest they've ever been (bearing in mind that clean is a relative term) but so were my feet. So there are two more sets on order for three-seasons use.

    Note: The rear fender is too long for me to use. I have to move my bikes around at home and at work standing up on their back wheel, "bike shop style". The rear longboard is too long to allow this. So essentially, I spend $45 for just a front fender. I still consider it a deal.
    +1, these have the best coverage of any I have seen including the VO and Honjo. They also come in cream, and have that wonderful quick release for safety.
    Attachment 365567

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  12. #12
    aka Phil Jungels Wanderer's Avatar
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    Just pop rivet a 10 inch strip of rubber roofing material to the existing flaps. Works great, and any roofing co will give you a scrap big enough to last the rest of your life.

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  13. #13
    Senior Member rsacilotto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsl View Post
    SKS P-Series Longboards. Available in black or silver, and widths of 35, 45, 50, 55 and 65mm.

    I always liked SKS P-series fenders, except for their length. For 2014, SKS combined the best features of the P-Series with the Longboard length. I spent $45 to try them. The front one reaches down to just below two inches from the road surface. It makes a tremendous difference. This winter, not only were my BB, crankset, chain, RD, and cassette the cleanest they've ever been (bearing in mind that clean is a relative term) but so were my feet. So there are two more sets on order for three-seasons use.

    Note: The rear fender is too long for me to use. I have to move my bikes around at home and at work standing up on their back wheel, "bike shop style". The rear longboard is too long to allow this. So essentially, I spend $45 for just a front fender. I still consider it a deal.
    I added Planet Bike Cascadia mudflaps to my P45s, they work great.

  14. #14
    commuter and barbarian scroca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2manybikes View Post
    Most of the dirt on the bike comes from the bottom of the front wheel. A flap that almost touches the ground is the best way to handle this. When the flap is this long it needs to be very flexible to go over things. Two layers of mtb innertube folded back onto it self and super glued together in spots is the best. One layer of tube won't work it goes back tho the shape of the tube. I have a few of these some 15 years old and some with 10,000 miles. The soft tube will go up over snow. NO need to drill holes in the fender just wrap the top of the flap with stiff wire and crimp it over on the edge of the fenders. This way it can be removed, changed, or repaired just by un-crimping the wire. Mine look pretty good. 2many photos to find one right now.
    Would love to see photos when you get a chance. I think I get the glued innertube, but the wire crimping idea is a little vague for me. A picture may help.
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  15. #15
    Dog is my co-pilot 2manybikes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scroca View Post
    Would love to see photos when you get a chance. I think I get the glued innertube, but the wire crimping idea is a little vague for me. A picture may help.
    Also glue the edges and maybe a big x across the flaps when gluing them together. It's all you need. Of like rungs on a ladder. Also after glueing You can cut them to be even and a taper at the top. If you have to cut off some of the glued edge, just put some glue back in the two edges and glue it again. I like a rectangle with a taper on the top that gets down to the width of the fender. Found the photos

    fender wires 001a.jpgfender wires 002a.jpgfender wires 003a.jpgfender wires 004a.jpgfender wires 008a.jpgfender wires 011a.jpgfender wires 014a.jpgfender wires 019a.jpg

    Click on the photo to enlarge it.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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