Just learned how to ride a bike... Which bike would you guys go for?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just learned how to ride a bike... Which bike would you guys go for?
Hey guys, after a couple of weeks of researching I narrowed it down to these two bikes:
Shift 1 - Trek Bicycle TREK SHIFT 1
Specialized Bicycle Components SPECIALIZED EXPEDITION
I'm a newbie rider, I am an adult. I wanted an upright riding position and a comfortable ride. These are two bikes I found that seems to be good for me (suggestions welcome).
Thanks!
Shift 1 - Trek Bicycle TREK SHIFT 1
Specialized Bicycle Components SPECIALIZED EXPEDITION
I'm a newbie rider, I am an adult. I wanted an upright riding position and a comfortable ride. These are two bikes I found that seems to be good for me (suggestions welcome).
Thanks!
#2
Banned
They are both aiming at the same market Niche .. Ford or Chevy ? Toyota or Kia ..
Here The guy with the SBI dealer franchise is in a Different town for Specialized
Vs Trek . the nearest one Sells the Shift , the Trek Pure is even more casual a stop with your feet flat
crank forward design - type.
Here The guy with the SBI dealer franchise is in a Different town for Specialized
Vs Trek . the nearest one Sells the Shift , the Trek Pure is even more casual a stop with your feet flat
crank forward design - type.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
They are both aiming at the same market Niche .. Ford or Chevy ? Toyota or Kia ..
Here The guy with the SBI dealer franchise is in a Different town for Specialized
Vs Trek . the nearest one Sells the Shift , the Trek Pure is even more casual a stop with your feet flat
crank forward design - type.
Here The guy with the SBI dealer franchise is in a Different town for Specialized
Vs Trek . the nearest one Sells the Shift , the Trek Pure is even more casual a stop with your feet flat
crank forward design - type.
Thanks
#5
Senior Member
Of the two bikes you picked out I would choose the Trek. Rigid fork. I didn't look further at anything else. Both bikes thrown together cost about the same as the better suspension forks (fork only, no rest of bike). I doubt that you will be flying down mountain slopes and the rigid fork has nothing but advantages for you.
#7
Senior Member
I would go the trek route but only because the other has shocks, they are 100% unnecessary outside of bumpy mountain biking. That and if you ever want a front rack or basket, you can basically forget about it. Fenders also are a pain, if not impossible, on most shock systems.
Upright is the way to ride if you are not a sporty cyclist. It's how the dutch do it for good reason.
Upright is the way to ride if you are not a sporty cyclist. It's how the dutch do it for good reason.
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I would go the trek route but only because the other has shocks, they are 100% unnecessary outside of bumpy mountain biking. That and if you ever want a front rack or basket, you can basically forget about it. Fenders also are a pain, if not impossible, on most shock systems.
Upright is the way to ride if you are not a sporty cyclist. It's how the dutch do it for good reason.
Upright is the way to ride if you are not a sporty cyclist. It's how the dutch do it for good reason.
Someone mentioned the "Pure" and that you stop with your feet flat.
What does that mean exactly?
If it means what I think it means, couldn't I get a smaller one of the other bikes and be able to put my feet flat on the ground?
I actually want to be able to do that as I am just starting out. I rode my wife's road bike and had a hell of a time. My feet couldn't reach the floor when I"m sitting!
#9
It's MY mountain
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mt.Diablo
Posts: 10,002
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4337 Post(s)
Liked 2,979 Times
in
1,616 Posts
Someone mentioned the "Pure" and that you stop with your feet flat.
What does that mean exactly?
If it means what I think it means, couldn't I get a smaller one of the other bikes and be able to put my feet flat on the ground?
I actually want to be able to do that as I am just starting out. I rode my wife's road bike and had a hell of a time. My feet couldn't reach the floor when I"m sitting!
What does that mean exactly?
If it means what I think it means, couldn't I get a smaller one of the other bikes and be able to put my feet flat on the ground?
I actually want to be able to do that as I am just starting out. I rode my wife's road bike and had a hell of a time. My feet couldn't reach the floor when I"m sitting!
#10
Senior Member
Definitely not a cyclist! Just want to ride leisurely for fun.
Someone mentioned the "Pure" and that you stop with your feet flat.
What does that mean exactly?
If it means what I think it means, couldn't I get a smaller one of the other bikes and be able to put my feet flat on the ground?
I actually want to be able to do that as I am just starting out. I rode my wife's road bike and had a hell of a time. My feet couldn't reach the floor when I"m sitting!
Someone mentioned the "Pure" and that you stop with your feet flat.
What does that mean exactly?
If it means what I think it means, couldn't I get a smaller one of the other bikes and be able to put my feet flat on the ground?
I actually want to be able to do that as I am just starting out. I rode my wife's road bike and had a hell of a time. My feet couldn't reach the floor when I"m sitting!
I also agree their suggestion of bike to get. You WANT a more relaxed upright bike. You don't end up with a sore back and have far better visibility(and you can relax, which is nice). While the efficiency is a little lower, it's not a lot. Unless you are in a race I'd not worry about efficiency anyway, it's about the ride and getting places, not the sport. Honestly I feel too many are influenced by sports cycling and think that's how it should be.
I however would prefer the Electra Amsterdam. But that's more utilitarian and made for hauling groceries home. If that's not something you are interested in, the Townie is a nice, and less expensive choice.
Amsterdam | Electra Bikes
#11
Senior Member
or a recumbent...
Can't beat a recumbent for comfort!
Can't beat a recumbent for comfort!
#13
Senior Member
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Northern Neck of Virginia
Posts: 316
Bikes: Some Raleighs,some Schwinns and an Azor
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
I just had the great fortune to finally sell my KHS version of that type of bike you asked about. I wanted an upright bike and it was what the LBS said I should get. They are not really upright bikes though. When I finally did get a real upright bike it was a revelation. I have used my real upright more in the past 8 weeks than I used that KHS in the past 8 years.
IMHO the need for flat footing a bike disappears pretty quickly, say in 50 miles of riding experience. If possible take a lot of test rides before you buy. Since you are new to riding it is very likely your wants and needs will change very quickly as you gain experience. Consider buying used as the new bike depreciation bite may be pretty painful when you want to upgrade your ride.
Typically for many of these types of posts I did not even answer your question. So l will say, if you must choose between the two, go for the Trek. The suspension front fork is pointless and actually a hindrance.
IMHO the need for flat footing a bike disappears pretty quickly, say in 50 miles of riding experience. If possible take a lot of test rides before you buy. Since you are new to riding it is very likely your wants and needs will change very quickly as you gain experience. Consider buying used as the new bike depreciation bite may be pretty painful when you want to upgrade your ride.
Typically for many of these types of posts I did not even answer your question. So l will say, if you must choose between the two, go for the Trek. The suspension front fork is pointless and actually a hindrance.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 3,209
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 139 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
20 Posts
What bike did you get that you consider an upright bike?
I agree that you will get used to not being able to put your feed down pretty quickly. If that is a must have feature, DoabloScott hit the nail on the head; buy a bike designed for flat footed. Otherwise you end up with improper geometry and not only less efficient ride, it will be more difficult on your knees.
Go the some bike stores and test ride bikes and compare and see what features you like. First and foremost rule is the bike *must* fit.
Welcome to the world of cycling!
I agree that you will get used to not being able to put your feed down pretty quickly. If that is a must have feature, DoabloScott hit the nail on the head; buy a bike designed for flat footed. Otherwise you end up with improper geometry and not only less efficient ride, it will be more difficult on your knees.
Go the some bike stores and test ride bikes and compare and see what features you like. First and foremost rule is the bike *must* fit.
Welcome to the world of cycling!
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Northern Neck of Virginia
Posts: 316
Bikes: Some Raleighs,some Schwinns and an Azor
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
Penguin, I got an Azor Kruisframe (Dutch) and really like it. I also have a Raleigh DL1 and a couple of conversions but I use the Kruisframe the most.
+1 on fit.
+1 on fit.
#17
Prefers Cicero
Like others I prefer the one without suspension (Trek). Suspension just adds weight and slows you down, and with the seat far back like that, most of your weight will be over the rear wheel and borne by your butt and feet, not your wrists, so there's no good reason to need front suspension.
Just to reiterate, those bikes have the seat far back so you can pedal without your knees being too bent, yet still reach the ground with both feet. Getting a steeper bike like your wife's with the saddle a bit more forward, but in a smaller size, would cramp your knees when pedalling and might lead to knee strain.
Just to reiterate, those bikes have the seat far back so you can pedal without your knees being too bent, yet still reach the ground with both feet. Getting a steeper bike like your wife's with the saddle a bit more forward, but in a smaller size, would cramp your knees when pedalling and might lead to knee strain.
Last edited by cooker; 08-03-14 at 11:20 AM.
#18
Prefers Cicero
To anticipate a couple of other newbie issues. Don't be too alarmed if whatever bike you get has toe overlap, where your toe touches the front tire during slow speed turns. Lots of bikes have that and you learn to manage/avoid it.
In general, try to "spin" faster in a lower gear rather than "mash" slowly in a high gear - better for the knees.
Don't get a really soft spongy bike seat or seat cover - they feel more comfortable, but they are more of a threat to your reproductive organs. A firmer saddle with your weight carried by the sitbones in your butt cheeks is best. If you're riding and you find yourself going numb "down there", pedal standing up for a minute or so, every so often to restore blood flow.
If you want some cushioning in the saddle, get one with springs underneath, not a gel top.
In general, try to "spin" faster in a lower gear rather than "mash" slowly in a high gear - better for the knees.
Don't get a really soft spongy bike seat or seat cover - they feel more comfortable, but they are more of a threat to your reproductive organs. A firmer saddle with your weight carried by the sitbones in your butt cheeks is best. If you're riding and you find yourself going numb "down there", pedal standing up for a minute or so, every so often to restore blood flow.
If you want some cushioning in the saddle, get one with springs underneath, not a gel top.
Last edited by cooker; 08-03-14 at 12:04 PM.
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: a town in New England
Posts: 20
Bikes: 1993(?) Cannondale H400, 2011 Cannondale Quick 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just learned how ...
Congratulations on learning how to ride a bike!
Between the two bikes that you short-listed, definitely go for the Trek for the reasons mentioned already. But, before buying that, consider that amongst "upright seating" style bikes, there can be a big difference between how one bike fits your body and the next bike fits your body, comfort-wise, based simply on the difference between various (non-drop) handlebar styles. "Flat bar" style might have you leaning fairly far forward and somewhat down, compared to a fully upright seating position enabled by swept-back handlebars. Wikipedia has a good article about handlebar styles, with lots of graphics.
In time, you may decide you want to replace some of the original parts on your bike, with different parts. For some parts, this is a low-labor-cost situation at your LBS, or maybe even DIY. But it is not a given that you could have your LBS replace one style of non-drop handlebars with another style, without also re-cabling the brakes and derailers, possibly requiring a mildly immodest expense.
So I suggest you find an LBS with a couple of different styles of non-drop, non-flat-bar handlebar bikes, whether new or already reconditioned, and try them out. You just might find something more comfortable for you, than even the best-fitting Trek flatbar bike. Possibly even Trek sells something like this, I don't follow the bike market, just recounting my own experience with my last 5 bikes. The most comfortably upright seating position was on the bike with the most swept-back handlebar... I gave up on that bike for other reasons.
Beyond getting a geometry, frame size and handlebar that will suit you best, tires are the remaining key to riding comfort. Best to get a bike that will accept tires such as 700x37 or wider, while still supporting clearance to add fenders (sooner or later.) Then, keep the tires pumped to a fairly low pressure: high enough to avoid pinch flats or wobbly handling, but low enough to keep you rolling comfortably over rough spots without jarring vibrations. (Rolling resistance is not a big factor at low speeds.) See Science and Bicycles 1: Tires and Pressure | Off The Beaten Path
Between the two bikes that you short-listed, definitely go for the Trek for the reasons mentioned already. But, before buying that, consider that amongst "upright seating" style bikes, there can be a big difference between how one bike fits your body and the next bike fits your body, comfort-wise, based simply on the difference between various (non-drop) handlebar styles. "Flat bar" style might have you leaning fairly far forward and somewhat down, compared to a fully upright seating position enabled by swept-back handlebars. Wikipedia has a good article about handlebar styles, with lots of graphics.
In time, you may decide you want to replace some of the original parts on your bike, with different parts. For some parts, this is a low-labor-cost situation at your LBS, or maybe even DIY. But it is not a given that you could have your LBS replace one style of non-drop handlebars with another style, without also re-cabling the brakes and derailers, possibly requiring a mildly immodest expense.
So I suggest you find an LBS with a couple of different styles of non-drop, non-flat-bar handlebar bikes, whether new or already reconditioned, and try them out. You just might find something more comfortable for you, than even the best-fitting Trek flatbar bike. Possibly even Trek sells something like this, I don't follow the bike market, just recounting my own experience with my last 5 bikes. The most comfortably upright seating position was on the bike with the most swept-back handlebar... I gave up on that bike for other reasons.
Beyond getting a geometry, frame size and handlebar that will suit you best, tires are the remaining key to riding comfort. Best to get a bike that will accept tires such as 700x37 or wider, while still supporting clearance to add fenders (sooner or later.) Then, keep the tires pumped to a fairly low pressure: high enough to avoid pinch flats or wobbly handling, but low enough to keep you rolling comfortably over rough spots without jarring vibrations. (Rolling resistance is not a big factor at low speeds.) See Science and Bicycles 1: Tires and Pressure | Off The Beaten Path
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bluescrn
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
0
03-08-15 05:43 AM