sportsfan266

I just got out of college and just started working full time. I figured riding a bike to work once in a while would be a good way to get some exercise. I had a cheap bike from Walmart in high school and I rented one from my college so I really don't know anything about bikes and what I should be looking for component wise. The LBS closest to me sells Specialized (also Raleigh, Nirve and Sun if anyone has any recommendations from those) and I've narrowed it down to the following 2 bikes (LBS has to order it from Specialized so I'm wondering which I should try first):

Specialized Sirrus Sport: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...s/sirrus-sport
Specialized Globe Work 1: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...k/work-1#specs

Ride is about 10-12 miles, 75% urban, 25% rural with few hills (live along the NC coast so it's mostly flat except the rural parts at the end)

As for equipment, I've got on my list to get a helmet, front/rear lights and somebody told me to get fenders and a bike kit for tools in case of a flat or punctured tire. Anything else you can think of?

Thanks for your help!

acidfast7

If you're going with one bike, the first thing I look for is fender and rack mounting points on the frame.

Both bikes have those, so either is great.

I would ride them around and see which feels more comfortable with the geometry and just bike it and start riding.

What you don't want is "analysis paralysis" where it takes months to make the decision.

I also like the flat bar versus drop bar.

I have three bikes in three locations (drop bar single-speed in the UK, city bike in Denmark and a flat bar MTB in the German alps.)

I like to them all equally and can switch in between quite easily.

Don't let people here talk you out of flat bars

no1mad 

I think I'd opt for the Sirrus for that kind of distance myself.

Regarding options from Raleigh, check out the Cadent and Misceo* lines.

*Not the Misceo Trail line with the front suspension.

zacster

The Sirrus line is generally pretty good. Of the two bikes, the Sirrus is 9 speed vs the 7 speed on the other. It also has a higher line of components on it. You really can't go wrong with it for the price. My wife's bike is a Vita, which is the women's specific model of the same bike. She loves it.

mstraus

I would go for the Sirrus for that lengthy commute - its a great bike. I looked at one myself and really liked it, but my commute is longer with a big climb so I decided I wanted drop bars (the Secteur is the closest equivalent with drop bars).

I think that the Sirrus has decent attachments for a rack or fenders, and I assume will be a livelier ride then the Globe.

Ultimately though, you need to get out and ride them both and pick the one you like best

mstraus

Lights are a must - I recommend them even in day to be safe on roads, particularly at dawn/dusk.

You need something for flats - I recommend a good mini-pump, spare tube, tire levers. Patch kit is good for emergency, but I personally change the tube if possible and try patching at home.

A bike tool is useful for adjustments if needed, but I rarely use it while not at home.

Do you have a secure place to store your bike at work? If not make sure to get a good lock.

Fenders are certainly nice to keep you and your bike clean and dry on wet roads, but depending on where you live and how often you will be on the road when the roads are wet (including day after rain, etc.) may be more or less important to you. If you will only be a fair weather bike commuter this may not be necessary for you.

Do you need to carry much with you to/from work? If so keep in mind a heavy load in a backpack may be uncomfortable, so you might consider a rack and panniers. This one is entirely a personal preference. I would start with a backpack and see if it bothers you or not.

Leisesturm

Lights during the daytime are not a must. Dawn/Dusk is another matter, they are extensions of night-time, if the majority of cars on the road have their lights on that is usually when I put my lights on. My fluorescent yellow bike jacket is as, or more visible, than any daytime headlight would be and does not use any of my batteries charge to do it. It must be said, most cyclists are not hit because the driver didn't see them! The driver very much saw the cyclist but either their judgment was faulty by dint of impairment or inexperience or temperament. Not a lot that one can do about that. I don't drive often, so when I do, I am acutely aware of just how much trust I am putting in the other drivers on the road! Seriously, if you thought about it you wouldn't get out on the road in neither a car or a bicycle! But people get in cars and drive 50 mph while traffic that is coming towards them also at 50 mph is doing it just a couple of feet away and only two yellow lines separate... .. OMG... I don't know of the air-bag or crumple zone that can protect you from a head on collision with a closing speed of 100mph. A driver will drive 20 or more miles like that and then take his bike out of the trunk to finish his trip. Now he has no oncoming traffic to deal with since he is well buffered by the cars on his left. Fear and trembling about the possibility of getting hit makes him festoon his bike and himself with all manner of active and passive lighting devices. And possibly video recording equipment... ... think about all that for a minute and tell me if a significant percentage of vehicular cyclists are acting rationally with respect to their approach to what they do.

H

Andy_K 

For a first bike, you definitely shouldn't get too hung up on components. High end components are nice to have, but they generally don't add much to the functionality of the bike. (Think of the car brand -- can't remember which one it is -- that advertises the satisfying sound of its door closing. High end bike components are like that.) That said, there is a point at the bottom of the spectrum that I would avoid on a bike that's going to see regular use, and 7-speed grip shifters (as seen on the Globe you linked to) are below that point. They're essentially disposable. The components on the Sirrus look pretty decent.

Personally I'd want drop bars for a commute of that length. The wrist angle feels better to me. That's a personal choice though.

Get a good U-lock, and don't go cheap on your bike pump. Portable pumps with a hose are much easier to use than those without. Lezyne Micro Floor Drive and Topeak Road Morph are good choices. You don't strictly need a floor pump at home, but it will make your life a lot easier.

Consider getting gloves, but don't feel like you need cycling-specific gloves. You can get something cheap at Harbor Freight or Home Depot. Gloves help with comfort and protect your hands in the event of a spill.

sportsfan266

Thanks for the feedback guys! Sounds like the Sirrus Sport will be the way to go. I was considering going up to the Sirrus Elite but that's a $200 difference and I probably wouldn't even figure out what the difference is riding it. (Might as well spend the extra money on accessories)

Anybody else about drop bars vs flat bars? I remember when I was in high school I had a flat bar bike and I would take it on 10 mile rides on a nearby bike path though that was a once in a while deal vs daily.

As for lights, I'd be biking around 7-8 and 5-6 so in the summer it might not be a big deal. I have a safety vest at work that I could wear to be more visible.

I don't really bring anything to/from work other than my lunch so I highly doubt I'd be carrying anything heavy.

Thanks for all the advice so far!

fietsbob

In addition to flat or drop divide , swapping flat bars for figure 8 bend trekking bars is another possibility .
as is fitting more comfortable grips/bar ends like Ergon.

remember a bike is a sum of the parts ,

and if what is on the bike on the sales floor is not what you like , it is not requirred to stay that way
want different bars ,different stem reach better tires , racks and fenders, just ask

point of sale changes are typically discounted vs getting them later , in cost.
+ there is trade in value, since the removed parts are still New.

I have adopted a replacement Hub dynamo wheel and wired LED lights .
so they light when the bike rolls .. and the battery doesnt go dead.

Andy_K 

It looks like the difference between the Sirrus Sport and the Sirrus Elite is that the Elite has a lighter frame and a carbon fork. The lighter frame you would probably never notice (I'd guess the difference is less than half a pound). You'd notice the carbon fork if you used skinny tires at high pressure, but there's really no reason to do that. Both come with 700x28 tires, and I'd guess that you can put 700x32 on there if you want. Fat tires do more to smooth out the road than a carbon fork.

I probably shouldn't even have introduced the flat bar issue. You generally get more value from a flat bar bike, and the only way to discover that you don't want one is by riding one a lot, and you might discover the opposite. Also, as fietsbob pointed out, there are other options with a flat bar setup if you find it's an issue.

sportsfan266

Just ordered a red Sirrus Sport (decided to just pick something before I thought too much about it). Thanks for all your help!

zacster

Good choice. Get a lock, gloves, and lights if you plan on riding in anything that resembles dark. Don't spend too much on the lights and gloves, but consider a heavy duty lock. A brand new bike is a tempting target. The rest, fenders, rack, upgrades to component can come later if you feel you need them. Also consider real riding clothes.

As I'm writing this I realize all of this is second nature to me to just have it.

Sirrus Rider

I may add he could do a drop bar conversion and have lower cost, aluminum version of the AWOL.

Sirrus Rider

You can do this with it.. Pair of Travel Agents to change the pull ratio to be compatible with Brifters an IRC intermediate front derailleur to handle the hybrid triple and a 31.8 Orgin 8 Compact alloy drop bars. Oh and a set of used 9 speed brifters.. Makes for a poor man's AWOL..

g0tr00t

Here is my "grocery list". This is what I have for my bikes (commuting/road):

1. Front light - NiteRider MiNewt 600
2. Rear light - Radbot 1000
3. Bottle holders x2
4. Mirror (my newest edition)
5. Seat Bag Alien-(this one is on my single speed rain bike)
6. Multi tool - Crank bros (each bike has 1 of these)
7. Computer - Bontrager Trip 2
8. Repair Kit - each bike has 1 of these
9. Tire liners RhinoDillos (these are on my rain bike. My Road Bike has Gatorskins)
10. Spare tube
11. Air pump - I bought this when I first started riding, but since I have gotten used to the Co2 cartridges, I only bring it to campgrounds or really long rides.
12. Stem Bag - FuelBelt FuelBox (just a small stem bag I keep batteries and small tools for adjusting the brakes, I also keep a pair of Bike Sleeves in there. In the winter it can go from the 30s to the 80s in 1 day....
13. Fenders - I added a pair of fenders to my rain bike and LOVE THEM.

Thats pretty much it for my "stuff". I have other "stuff", but this is my main gear for my bikes.

mstraus

Geometry would be pretty different then the AWOL still, no? Also no disc brakes, can't handle as large of tire, etc.

I think the Specialized TriCross is much closer to an aluminum AWOL then the Sirrus. Sirrus with drops would be closer to the Sectuer, no?

mstraus

Maybe I wasn't clear enough. Lights are a must if you ride at night (often required by law but also simply a safety thing). I would also HIGHLY recommend lights in the early and late part of the day, as it will be harder for others to see you as the sun gets lower in the sky. I don't think lights are must in the day, but I am starting to recommend them even in the day as in my observation its easier to notice bikes with a light. Its up to you though, and I agree mid day a bright hi vis jacket, etc is also very effective.

g0tr00t

I ride blinky lights during the day and solid at night. All it means is that I charge my light sooner....Just look at other riders coming at you, who do you see first during the day? The ones with lights on...