fietsbob

yea , now that the company has expanded to actually pursue the bike chain lube market place
which WD product was used, in the OP is unclear ..

fietsbob

actually the way derailleur bike chains are made now is different ..

now the roller rides on the edge of metal that was displaced
from the act of hot-punching out the hole, in the inner link plate.

true 9 is thinner than 8, but the bushing-less construction type is common to both.

tjspiel

There's not much consensus on chain maintenance. I've even heard that lubricants often do more harm than good since they attract dirt and grit. If I'm not mistaken some studies have shown that a clean unlubricated chain results in no loss of efficiency over a clean lubricated one.

Anyway, I doubt that using WD-40 is going to do much harm. I use a rust resistant chain on my winter bike and while it looks a lot better at the end of a season than a normal one it's still pretty much shot.

dynaryder

Depends on the commute. I wasn't a fan of the 10spd on my former cross bike because my commute was very hilly and had sections where I made frequent stops. So I was doing alot of shifting. OTOH,I prefer 9spd to 8spd when it comes to 11-34 cassettes because with 8spd the change from 2nd down to 1st is a pretty big jump in a megarange cassette.

tjspiel

I commute on a fixed gear, an 8 speed IGH, and a road bike with a 2 X 9 drivetrain. I'm seriously thinking of converting the road bike to a 2 x 10 with a compact double. While I happily commute on my fixed gear, I will say when it comes to geared bikes, yes there is an advantage to having more cogs on your cassette. Is it necessary? Absolutely not.

It's nice to have a wide range without a big jump between any of the gears. That's probably my biggest complaint about the Shimano IGH. The jump between 4th and 5th is too big. Now part of the problem is that if you're going to have a big jump like that it shouldn't be in the middle of the range. It would be less noticeable and more welcome even if the jump was between 1st and 2nd.

As for my road bike, converting to a compact double with a 10 speed cog instead of a 9 speed will provide my 50 year old body more options on any nasty hills I come across while still giving me even jumps between gears and without losing much on the top.

From a money perspective there's a definite advantage to being a bit behind cutting edge but I think we've reached a point where the cost savings has become a lot less than what it once was between 8 and 9 speed stuff. Not only that but there are fewer 8 speed choices. It's also gotten to the point where 10 speed is old news and the prices have come way down.

Again for commuting it probably doesn't matter a ton. If you're happy with your gearing options there is no reason to change.

dscheidt

You suggesting that the abused chain I just threw out was some relic from the bushing era? it wasn't. It was a perfectly modern KMC chain. The increase in bearing area for 9 to 8 speed chain is substantial. Increased bearing area means lower loads, which means longer life.

tjspiel

I guess I'm not sure. Do 8 speed chains have larger diameter pins or are the links just wider (use longer pins of the same diameter)? Most of the wear occurs where the inner link rotates on the pin. Longer pins and wider rollers aren't going to do much to help the chain last longer. In fact I could see where longer pins might actually make for weaker chains.

Take a look at how chains are put together:


I'm not endorsing this chain. It just came up early in the search.

And in case you're interested, someone did some endurance comparisons between 9 and 10 speed chains. The 10 speed chains laster longer.

Single speed chains last a long time because they're not getting torqued by derailleurs, are always running straight, and are not being spun around jockey wheels. It's not because they're inherently stronger.

zonatandem

Hot paraffin is what we've used for the past 300,000+miles on all our chains (since the early 1970s).
Have gotten up to 8,000 miles on 9 speed tandem chains without re-waxing.
However, we do live in a very dry climate (Arizona); although we have little rain, we have a big amount of blowing dust which can raise hell with chains that are using wet lubes.
Works for us!
Rudy and Kay/zonatandem

markjenn

Wow, someone comes up with EXACTLY the right answer.

- Mark

fietsbob

IDK did you look? you can see bushing's edges if they're there . i cant see a f'ing thing from here of your chain..


Marketing relegates Full bushing chains to IGH,& Single speeds after std 6 speed with spacing the chain pins
gave way to flush pins ..
and the side plates no taller than the rollers .. this>** .. Connex by Wippermann - Bicycle chains - Narrow Hub Gears - derailleur chains for narrow hub gears, bicycle chain, derailleur chain, mountain bike chain, bmx chain, racing bike chain, trekking bike, city bike, chain, gear system, 10-speed, 9-speed, 8-

got a 3/32" Bushed Whipperman on my R'off , replaced the R'off chain & it's lasted much longer

Merckx and so, forth used regina ORO , back then that was how chains were made . back then bushings ..

Sedis Brought in the more flexible bushingless derailleur chain , now thats nearly universal .

vs this **> Connex by Wippermann - Bicycle chains - 8-Speed - 8-speed derailleur chains, bicycle chain, derailleur chain, mountain bike chain, bmx chain, racing bike chain, trekking bike, city bike, chain, gear system, 10-speed, 9-speed, 8-speed, hub gear, singl

Six jours

As a Professional Bicycle Mechanic I am deeply offended at the thought of using WD-40 on a bicycle chain. If you care anything at all about your bicycle you will use bicycle-specific formulations. You can tell the good ones by their price tag: spend at least $30/ounce and you can be comforted by the knowledge that you are doing everything possible to preserve your noble steed.

Really good stuff, of course, is significantly more expensive and should come in a bottle with appropriate graphics and technical specifications that you don't necessarily need to understand but that you should at least memorize for discussion at the coffee stop.

All this applies, BTW, only for users of 11 speed chain. Users of ten (and fewer) speed chain can use whatever they want on their junky old clunkers. I don't really have time to discuss things with those losers.

-=(8)=-

After 40 years or so, WD is all I use on my quality rides. If I have a little spare time, once/twice a year, I will mix a little Marvel Mystery Oil in with it. The helps me get another 5 or 10 years out of the chain.

acidfast7

So far, on the SS, I've used

1. unused rapsöl (canola)
2. used cooking grease from steaks
3. some German "green" bicycle chain lubricant

the last worked the best

markjenn

BTW, if you want something that even the chain mfgs endorse and don't want to spend much, clean the chain with WD40 and then apply 90W gear oil. Maybe not the most convenient, but I doubt any commercial chain lubricant will do better in terms of chain wear.

- Mark