Just started riding on a set of Rubana flashes, I was recommended them by an employee at the local co-op and so far I really like them and they're dirt cheap.
The randonneur hypers were already a big improvement in comfort and no noticable speed difference compared to the skinny race tires. With the super motos, the comfort has increased even more with (for me) no discernable speed difference.
I commute on three different bikes and between them use 7 different kinds of tires. The "winter" bike uses 4 of those: A set of Nokian W240s for most of the winter, a combination of a Nokian W106 and a Marathon Winter for lighter ice and snow days, and a pair of beloved 20 year old Bianchi Grizzly cross terrain tires for non winter use. It'll be a sad day when those finally wear out.
The fixed gear has a 23mm Kenda Kaliente Pro on the rear, and a 25mm Vittoria Zaffiro Pro on the front. There is a reason for the different sizes (which I won't go into) and they're both good tires.
The road bike has a set of Michelin Pro Race 4s which is actually a not a bad commuting tire, - if you had an unlimited budget for tires. They're not cheap and they don't last.
I'm willing to spend money on decent tires but at the same time I'm somewhat budget minded which is why I have kind of an eclectic mix. I look for good deals on good tires. I'll happily settle for an unusual color or last year's model if means saving $20 per tire.
Recommendations in bike forums needs to be run through a filter. Everyone's situation is different and personal preference plays a huge role in what people like and what they don't. Tires especially are about trade offs.
For example, the roads and trails I ride on are pretty decent and we don't have goat heads around here. So I'm willing to give up a little in terms of flat protection in order to have better performance. I really want a great performing tire on my road bike but that means I don't commute on it all the time because otherwise I'd be spending a fortune on replacing tires. So the bike that sees most of my commuting miles has "training tires" on it which are more durable but don't ride as nice or quite as fast.
I could put a nice city tire on my winter bike for summer commutes but it doubles as my off-road bike so it gets off road tires. They're not ideal for commuting but they're not terrible either.
So my rule for tires is to look for something with some degree of flat protection and check reviews. I don't worry too much about what other people use for commuting because I already know that lots of people here want something different than I do.
Surly Endomorph front
Conti RK 29 rear (tubeless)
schwalbe marathon plus* (except the Brompton , it's Marathon Kevlar belt.)
622-47 & 406-47 on different bikes
25mm Specialized Armadillo's
I've had good luck with Vittoria Randonneurs as well, but don't like the tread pattern on them as well as the Contact2's. I'd run Top Contacts if they were available in a 28 or 32c.
Meantime on the weekender bike with far more supple fast tires, I have been getting ample opportunity to hone flat changing techniques.
My commute is 6 miles of urban streets. I have one simple consideration when I choose tires ---- cheap. performance doesn't matter in stop and go urban riding, and glass strewn streets keep life short. So why spend more dough than necessary.
So on an urban commute that takes a 20-25 minutes depending on lights and traffic, on poor pavement, what difference is a 1% effective weight savings going to mean. Not an awful lot. And not anything I'd pay a premium to realize.
However on the matter of wheels and tires the physics is different. What is the power required to get the wheel mass rotating, and what is the significance of wheel weight? Because rotating the wheel is the first thing to overcome, and only after this does the bike and rider weight pose resistance.
Just do this. Try increasing the weight of your wheel by a small amount = say 100g by tying a few bags of sand. Or you can try tying ankle weights. Make sure you increase the weight of the wheel nearest to the rim, since this is where the effect is most magnified. You will find that it makes a difference. Much more so than if you were to add a 100g bag of sand to your luggage (and hence the overall bike weight).
here or in any HS physics textbook) we can say that weight at the tread of the tire would count double vs frame weight, while the multiplier would decrease to near zero as we moved in toward the hub. I factored that (generously) when I doubled the weight of the tires in my rough example earlier.
As for the premise that weight in one part of the bike must be overcome first before other places count, that makes no sense at all.
So we agree that wheels count more, but we need to maintain some perspective. If we were talking about road bikes ridden long stretches on open roads, or engaged in alpine climbing, things like this would matter a bit more, but not for a 6 mile urban commute.