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  1. #26
    http://www.538.nl acidfast7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    You sure nobody invests in the NYSE in Europe?


    You are half my age, many shopping days before your 30 more Christmas remain ..





    One item TT when thinking ring lock mounts , i see they used the wrong , Back side ,IMO.
    Screen Shot 2014-03-31 at 21.34.40.jpg

    Screen Shot 2014-03-31 at 21.34.52.jpg
    Movimento 5 Stelle (M5S)
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  2. #27
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    precisely. it's bassackwards..

    I use the Axa Defender . the Koga folks have it right. front facing,

    Key on the left , security chain pin catch socket on the right.

    unless you are a hard core southpaw and dismount on the right side and lock up your bike on the left side.
    http://www.axa-stenman.com/en/bicycl...ocks/defender/
    +
    http://www.axa-stenman.com/en/bicycl...hains/rlc-140/
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-31-14 at 03:24 PM.

  3. #28
    http://www.538.nl acidfast7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    precisely. it's bassackwards..

    I use the Axa Defender . the Koga folks have it right. front facing,

    Key on the left , security chain pin catch socket on the right.

    unless you are a hard core southpaw and dismount on the right side and lock up your bike on the left side.
    i always assume the the TT makes more sense because the most torque would could exert on the lock to break it would be by peddling forward so it should be on the backside on the frame.

    i have a factory ring lock on my danish POS and i can't even tell you what side it's on. doesn't really matter as it's on the laying on the ground every morning
    Movimento 5 Stelle (M5S)
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  4. #29
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    1st thing to break would be the brass spoke nipples and so the spoke , nearest the ring hasp.

  5. #30
    Senior Member alan s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsl View Post
    Also comes in black.
    Didn't realize that. It seems Surly is hedging its bets on color a little now. Any idea what the build weighs in at? If it's in the upper 20s, that's pretty decent. Been contemplating a dropbar disc commuter recently.

  6. #31
    http://www.538.nl acidfast7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    1st thing to break would be the brass spoke nipples and so the spoke , nearest the ring hasp.
    also, when moving off the cyclepath and "parking" parallel to the building key of the left side makes most sense
    Movimento 5 Stelle (M5S)
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  7. #32
    tsl
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    Quote Originally Posted by alan s View Post
    Didn't realize that. It seems Surly is hedging its bets on color a little now. Any idea what the build weighs in at? If it's in the upper 20s, that's pretty decent. Been contemplating a dropbar disc commuter recently.
    Dunno. He and the bike are 1800 miles away from me. Why not join that forum and ask in the thread?

    New build - Straggler | Bicycling Magazine Forums
    My two favorite things in life are libraries and bicycles. They both move people forward without wasting anything.
    The perfect day: Riding a bike to the library.—Peter Golkin


    Lucky for me, I work at a library and bike to work.

  8. #33
    Senior Member PatrickGSR94's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsl View Post
    A friend of mine just sent pics of his new Surly Straggler build. It's not even dirty yet, but based on the few miles he has on it, he likes it a lot. He built it up with a Sora triple, BB7 brakes, Shimano Alfine dyno hub in front, B&M lights, Topeak Super Tourist disc rack, and SKS fenders. He's running 40mm tires on it now, planning on 28s for summer.

    If it turns out aluminum with rim brakes is in the cards for you, I'm very pleased with the Ribble Winter/Audax I built up last spring. I bought it because it was cheap, intending to replace it when I could afford better. It's so nice, I changed my plans. It's a keeper. The bare frame is $143, I also bought the $121 Deda Black Rain carbon fork with fender eyelets. Plan on $80 for trans-Atlantic air freight.

    It requires 57mm "long-reach" brake calipers, like Shimano BR-651. It fits 25mm Conti 4-Seasons under SKS P-35 fenders right out of the box. When I went up to 28mm 4-Seasons, I needed Reacharound Fender Brackets for the back.

    Ribble also has a very similar frame in Reynolds 525 for $242.
    Nice options there, thanks. And your friend's bike looks pretty good, too. I might go for the Tiagra 10-sp or something.

    Odd that frame you built up, it says it only takes up to 23mm tires, but you actually did fit 28's with fenders?

    Quote Originally Posted by john.b View Post
    Long Tom found a deal on an REI Novara Strada with the 20% member coupon (annual membership is a jackson).

    Your Most Recent Cycling-related Purchase

    Carbon fork and 105/FSA parts to start with, would probably be cheaper than starting to build up a frameset from the ground up.
    but but but.... I like putting stuff together!!

    Nice deal, though. My 2011 Z85 retailed for $1149 new I think, and I got it for 900 in 2012, with all 105 except FSA Vero crankset.
    2011 Felt Z85 105 | Ultegra | KMC | Selle Italia | Vuelta | Topeak
    90's-ish KHS Alite 1000 MTB, *hybridized*

  9. #34
    tsl
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94 View Post
    Odd that frame you built up, it says it only takes up to 23mm tires, but you actually did fit 28's with fenders?
    Yeah. I wrote them asking about it. They wrote back, "We only advise the size of tyres, as some manufacturers are slightly wider than normal which created some issues." Meaning they have a fudge factor built in. This is also why I specify the make and model I've stuffed in mine. YMMV with another tire.
    My two favorite things in life are libraries and bicycles. They both move people forward without wasting anything.
    The perfect day: Riding a bike to the library.—Peter Golkin


    Lucky for me, I work at a library and bike to work.

  10. #35
    another retro grouch Mr IGH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
    ...Best choice, I think, is to find a good vintage bike and mod as needed. Good platforms to work from include a rigid mtb or an old touring bike. You can mod those to your heart's (and wallet's) content.
    I agree, and if you don't want rim brakes there's always drums, here's my vintage Schwinn frame all pimped out. Another advantage is that it's not so attractive to thieves:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #36
    Senior Member bikemig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr IGH View Post
    I agree, and if you don't want rim brakes there's always drums, here's my vintage Schwinn frame all pimped out. Another advantage is that it's not so attractive to thieves:
    That's a heck of a bike, I like it. My all time fav commuter was a totally beat up Peugeot UO-8 that had a reasonable amount of rust (hey I figured that mild steel could take it) and nice parts; it got ripped off though so you never know.

    Old French bikes can make awesome commuters if you don't mind the weird threading.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94 View Post
    but but but.... I like putting stuff together!!
    Take it apart and put it back together?

    Sorry, I got nuthin...
    Quote Originally Posted by gaucho777 View Post
    I know people hate seeing bikes on cycling-related forums, so my apologies for that.
    No single raindrop considers itself responsible for the flood.

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