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  1. #1
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    Too Much Fender to Tire Clearance

    I just installed a Planet Bike 'Hardcore' 35mm fenders on the lady's new Surly Straggler. Due to the Straggler's ample front fork clearance, the bridge on the front fender leaves at least 30mm space between tire and fender. Since the bridge on the PB front fenders is semi-permanent (aluminum, and stamped into the plastic), I need some ideas on how to extend the bridge so the fender sits closer to the tire.

    Two other musings: why is it that all Planet Bike fenders never sit quite even, they all seem to have a diabolical twist to them. Second, why do the front and rear fenders never match how far they wrap around the tire (for example, the rear mudflap is at least 4 inches higher off the ground then the front mudflap).

  2. #2
    Senior Member gregjones's Avatar
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    It should be fairly easy to come up with something like this:

    Problem Solvers Fender Flute

  3. #3
    Senior Member Medic Zero's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbackman View Post
    I just installed a Planet Bike 'Hardcore' 35mm fenders on the lady's new Surly Straggler. Due to the Straggler's ample front fork clearance, the bridge on the front fender leaves at least 30mm space between tire and fender. Since the bridge on the PB front fenders is semi-permanent (aluminum, and stamped into the plastic), I need some ideas on how to extend the bridge so the fender sits closer to the tire.

    Two other musings: why is it that all Planet Bike fenders never sit quite even, they all seem to have a diabolical twist to them. Second, why do the front and rear fenders never match how far they wrap around the tire (for example, the rear mudflap is at least 4 inches higher off the ground then the front mudflap).

    This bugs me as well. I'm tempted to take a hair dryer to my girlfriends fenders to try and soften then bend them straight. Don't know if this will work.

    I see the Problem Solvers Fender Flute has been mentioned, another method is using some scrap aluminum or metal strapping material to fashion a sort of strut to bridge the gap between the fender and where you need to attach it. Some hardware stores sell scrap sheets of aluminum for very little.
    ISO: 22" GT Rebound frame, year 2000 model

  4. #4
    Thread Killer
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    Hey, I like the Flute! I did the bracet extension thing with a thin piece of rigid metal that just so happened to have a slot in the center and be the right length and width, but that was just a pack rat's luck! It works fine, and the bolts are probably corroded into place from many winters of road salt, so I'm not gonna mess with until it breaks at this point, but had I know of the Flute back then, I'd have happily spent money on one!
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

  5. #5
    xtrajack xtrajack's Avatar
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    I used 3 zip ties to reduce the clearance. I used one from the mounting bolt to the hanger on the fender, and one on each side of the fork leg to the hanger. The one from the bolt to hanger reduces the clearance and the ones from the fork legs keep the fender lined up over the tire.

    I didn't know about the Fender Flute when I installed my fenders.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbackman View Post
    ........Second, why do the front and rear fenders never match how far they wrap around the tire (for example, the rear mudflap is at least 4 inches higher off the ground then the front mudflap).
    The rear doesn't need to be as low.

  7. #7
    Junior Member
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    Wow, super helpful, thanks. I spent a few minutes trying to figure out how the flute would work, then I realized that it inserts underneath into the steerer tube. Genius. A little steep at ~$15 so first I'll try to fashion something from the hardware store. Not sure how important the curve is if inserting into steerer tube, but a little trial and error will get me there.

    Quote Originally Posted by gregjones View Post
    It should be fairly easy to come up with something like this:

    Problem Solvers Fender Flute

  8. #8
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    its only aesthetically an issue .. water cones off the highest point of the wheel, the center ..

    I have higher clearance under my mudguards intentionally so sticks and stuff wont be as likely to get stuck .

  9. #9
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    Okay, follow-up question. There is quite a bit of clearance between the bridge where the rear fender attaches and the tire, which seems that it would allow more room for water/grit to hit the front crank/drive train. Any solutions to get the fender closer to the tire? Is it important?

    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    its only aesthetically an issue .. water cones off the highest point of the wheel, the center ..

    I have higher clearance under my mudguards intentionally so sticks and stuff wont be as likely to get stuck .

  10. #10
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    the bottom tip, front edge of the rear mudguard , usually attaches to the Chainstay bridge, by the BB ,

    that takes care of the spray coming off the rear wheel quite nicely.

    If you have Horizontal front opening rear dropouts , you need space to get the wheel out

    though you could let the air out each time ..

    if you only take the wheel out to fix a flat with a tight fender line

    requires you to wait till the wheel is back in before inflating it again , then.

    Vertical dropouts are different. in that regard ..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-30-14 at 11:41 AM.

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