2013/2014 Nashbar Steel Cyclocross Bike Review (Complete 105)
#51
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I had to jump in on this (I stumbled on this thread looking for something else relating to this bike). I bought one of these a couple years ago, intending to use it for commuting and gravel racing. My first race on it was Barry Roubaix in its stock configuration (with studded tires, because it was icy that year). I have slowly modified it with a Ritchey carbon fork (that's you're single biggest weight trimming right there...by almost 3 lbs...the stock steel fork is an absolute beast), flipped the drive train to SRAM Force (mostly because I just prefer SRAM to Shimano) and TRP CX 8.4 V's. During these upgrades, this bike has performed wonderfully in multiple Barry Roubaixs, Lowell 50s, Dirty Kanzas, and a bunch of other long distance gravel races.
Then last year at Dirty Kanza, it (not me) got run over by a truck. The frame was barely even scratched (steel is real), but since I had to buy new wheels and a front fork, I had a local frame builder convert it to disc wheels for me. In it's current incarnation, it's the stock frame, SRAM Force drive train, 50/34 Sram Rival cranks, TRP HyRd hydraulic disc brakes, Stan's Grail ZTR wheels, Ergon C3 carbon seat post and Salsa Cowbell bars. It gets nothing but rave reviews for its throwback looks. I think this bike, with a few modifications (obviously, I went a bit crazy) is one of the best deals out there...I just wish Nashbar would update it to disc brakes, stock. Despite having MUCH higher end bikes in my "stable", this is still me go to for everyday riding...it's just such a pleasure to ride.
Then last year at Dirty Kanza, it (not me) got run over by a truck. The frame was barely even scratched (steel is real), but since I had to buy new wheels and a front fork, I had a local frame builder convert it to disc wheels for me. In it's current incarnation, it's the stock frame, SRAM Force drive train, 50/34 Sram Rival cranks, TRP HyRd hydraulic disc brakes, Stan's Grail ZTR wheels, Ergon C3 carbon seat post and Salsa Cowbell bars. It gets nothing but rave reviews for its throwback looks. I think this bike, with a few modifications (obviously, I went a bit crazy) is one of the best deals out there...I just wish Nashbar would update it to disc brakes, stock. Despite having MUCH higher end bikes in my "stable", this is still me go to for everyday riding...it's just such a pleasure to ride.
Unfortunately I'm having to replace mine. I went down on the drive side one too many times and weakened the RD hanger too much. The Land Run mud a couple weeks ago was the final straw, sheared the hanger right off. Labor costs, locally, to braze on a new dropout will more than likely be equal to the cost of a new frame. Leaning heavily toward the Soma Double Cross.
#52
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I now have 5000+ commuting miles on my model. All of it is original except the brake pads which were replaced with stock pads and tires. it is 59cm I am 6'2" fits just right. Does double duty in cyclocross races in the fall for fun, I'm never near the front but heck they're fun. No issues with the bike or any of the components. Handles everything here in the NE just fine, running Gatorskins on it now for the commute.
#53
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Back from the dead...
Looking at this bike as a rain bike.
Someone higher up in this thread said there is no hole in the chainstay bridge. Are there any full coverage fenders that will work on this bike?
Will regular road wheels work on this bike? I have no idea if the Powertap wheel I have would work with cantilever brakes.
Looking at this bike as a rain bike.
Someone higher up in this thread said there is no hole in the chainstay bridge. Are there any full coverage fenders that will work on this bike?
Will regular road wheels work on this bike? I have no idea if the Powertap wheel I have would work with cantilever brakes.
There should be no reason road wheels don't work. Powertap wheels are just wheels with a different hub, aren't they? They're the same rims (where the canti brakes are) as any other wheel could be. If you have a narrower rim than the stock wheel that comes with the bike, you probably just need to close up the canti brake a bit to brink the pads closer to the rim.
#54
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It's now listed at $899, with 21% off today which would make it $710 + shipping. Looks like a pretty nice bike for the price, though I personally am not a fan of canti brakes. I prefer disc, or v-brakes second.
Last edited by PatrickGSR94; 04-01-16 at 08:09 AM.
#55
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Just ordered one today and feel so giddy! Reading this thread just made me even more excited.
It was on Sunday sale for $720 + tax and shipping (total $805), in case anyone's curious. Base price increased from 850 to 900 somewhere in the last two weeks.
Will probably swap the brake pads and tires right away. I've had some great no-puncture experience with Bontrager AW1 on my Trek FX 7.3 on Russian roads, but people also seem to like Continental GatorSkins a lot. Are they worth the additional $15 each, what do you think?
It was on Sunday sale for $720 + tax and shipping (total $805), in case anyone's curious. Base price increased from 850 to 900 somewhere in the last two weeks.
Will probably swap the brake pads and tires right away. I've had some great no-puncture experience with Bontrager AW1 on my Trek FX 7.3 on Russian roads, but people also seem to like Continental GatorSkins a lot. Are they worth the additional $15 each, what do you think?
#56
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I put gatorskins on mine and they work great. The Bontrangers would work just as well also.
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This bike has been awesome so far. The 105 shifting is second to none, and it's overall quite comfortable to ride. I just love it how there're no pesky decals on the frame and the bold red color highlighting the pure elegance of steel.
Will be installing the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires and some Kool Stops because the default brakes are not the greatest.
Really glad I've bought this bike.
Will be installing the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires and some Kool Stops because the default brakes are not the greatest.
Really glad I've bought this bike.
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Just put the first 4 miles on the bike and am really happy. I look forward commuting on it.
One thing i didnt like was the saddle. I may replace it if it continues to bother.
One thing i didnt like was the saddle. I may replace it if it continues to bother.
#61
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Seriously considering ordering this bike today. I'm 5'9", would a size 53 fit? Size 54 frame road bikes are usually spot on, so I don't know whether to go 53 or 56.
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I'm 5'9 and ride a 54cm. Personally, my cockpit length is 55cm, so I need a 56 with a 90mm stem, or a 54 with a 110mm stem.
Decide if you want smaller and agile, or stretched out and a touch less agile, then get the stem to give you the cockpit length you need.
Decide if you want smaller and agile, or stretched out and a touch less agile, then get the stem to give you the cockpit length you need.
#63
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My "true inseam" measures at 31.5" barefoot, and it looks like the standover height of the 53 cm is 31.1". Should I lean towards the 53 based on not being able to clear the standover of a 56?
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It does have a horizonal top tube, doesn't it? In that case, smaller is better. I like to use a seat post with some flex (Thudbuster or Specialized CG-R) (or see the bike picture at the top of the page) on that type of bike, but I can't get the seat low enough on a large frame. Food for thought. Either way, a longer seat post will give you a smoother ride.
My biggest problem with going a little large is I lock my elbows, making the handling a little twitchy. I should be able to have a slight bend in my elbows in the drops. Of course, it is easy to change a stem to make the reach a little longer or shorter (if you are close).
My inseam is 32, which gives me a 88mm seat height (from pedal center) and 64mm reach with my torso. 54mm actual top tube with 100mm stem is perfect (although sometime I still like to go 10mm shorter).
I think you'll be fine with the 53.
My biggest problem with going a little large is I lock my elbows, making the handling a little twitchy. I should be able to have a slight bend in my elbows in the drops. Of course, it is easy to change a stem to make the reach a little longer or shorter (if you are close).
My inseam is 32, which gives me a 88mm seat height (from pedal center) and 64mm reach with my torso. 54mm actual top tube with 100mm stem is perfect (although sometime I still like to go 10mm shorter).
I think you'll be fine with the 53.