-=(8)=-

I couldn't find any Mr. Tuffy's at any shops in my town, but wanted something to reinforce a set of hi-feces Michelin Dynamics. Sort of like inflatable rim strips in stock form. So . . . I took two old tubes, chopped the stems off, flattened them out, then packed them in between the tire and inflatable tube. Not sure how the puncture protection will be, but seriously, the junky Michelins rode soooo much better I might do this to all of my tires

alan s 

I'll bite...what is hi-feces?

WestPablo

We've been using that trick for years in my neck of the woods!

-=(8)=-

wow . . . . a seatbelt? cool

Where are these woods??
Do you have any other cheap tricks ???
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MEversbergII

I was also contemplating electrical tape last night, but decided it wouldn't be tough enough. Gorilla tape, maybe.

So what's wrong with the Michelin Dynamics? I'm having good luck with my Lithions: Amazon.com : Michelin Lithion 2 Road Tire (Yellow, 700 x 23c) : Bike Tires : Sports & Outdoors

M.

jrickards

I have been slowly building some DIY studded tires for winter use (metal screws through the knobbies) and I was recommended to put an old tube between the tube to be inflated and the heads of the screws on the inside of the tire. I tried to do one better by using a Mr Tuffy tire liner but the tire liner (despite being the widest width available for a 26" MTB tire) was not wide enough to cover all of the heads of the screws. However, I don't have any old MTB tubes so it means I'll have to pay for a couple of MTB tubes.

On the other hand, I have an unused, and no plans to use it, Mr Tuffy tire liner (pair) and if there if there is anyone out there who'd like to trade a pair of used MTB tubes (a puncture is fine but no tears) for a free set of Mr Tuffy tire liners, PM me.

WestPablo

Many years ago here in Cleveland, we kids used to use tube remnant strips for liners, and we also used them once we developed a crack or hole in a Cruiser tire.

tarwheel 

You're obviously not a weight weenie.

Eric S.

I lined my tires with Gorilla tape a couple years ago. I went a year without flats on any of my bikes, so I thought I'd found gold. Then I did get some flats and wasn't convinced the tape had kept me rolling all that time. I was probably just lucky.

I may try the extra tube trick with my MTB commuter; it has 26x1.5 street tires so there should be some room in there.

-=(8)=-

I try to keep it under 50lbs, so I guess I am.

TransitBiker

This is a whole tube, or one that had its inner half cut away? I've been thinking that outer half of tube plus tyvek from shipping envelope would be an inexpensive alternative to a tire liner.

- Andy

-=(8)=-

The whole tube. So in essence, 3 layers of rubber before air
I tried duct tape, but it was too hard to get it threaded into the tire evenly and cleanly.
Again, the protection is yet to be seen, but the ride is so much better, I really think I might do this to all of my bikes

erig007

While at the junkyard i wonder if a kevlar belt could work as well. Since it is made of kevlar it is probably pretty efficient against puncture

-=(8)=-

That would be awesome!!!!!
Excellent!!!
A 50cc scooter belt would prolly slip right in there!!!!


One from a HD Fatboy for your fatbike

DiabloScott

One report I saw on tire liners was that Kevlar wasn't really all that great as a barrier - the reason Mr. Tuffys work is simply because of the extra thickness, so if 2 layers of tube is the same thickness as one layer of liner - it's probably just as good against most puncture risks including goatheads.

gsa103

Kevlar is pretty worthless against puncture. Kevlar is great for spreading force, but very weak against a pointed object that can go between the threads. There's a reason why bullet proof vests need a separate plate to stop knives.

Darth Lefty 

My grandad used to tell me rubber bands were made from chopped up old inner tubes...

TransitBiker

Kevlar drive belts may not be woven the same as kevlar woven for puncture resistance, so be careful with that, and maybe even test it if possible.

I think i'll swing by the local shop here and see if they have any expended 26 inch tubes & stockpile a few & see what ends up working long term. For now i'll leave the wheels/tires factory.

- Andy

TransitBiker

Some are. Otherwise they are made from plain latex or a synthetic compound. Most of the recycled tube elastics are used in packaging that i've seen. You can buy small amounts online here and there.

- Andy

wolfchild

Here's an idea..If you want ultimate puncture protection the just run double tire... For example: if you're running 26x2 tires then get some smaller size tires cut the bead off and use it to line the tire then put your tube in there...Yeah it will be heavy as hell and ride like ****, but good puncture protection. Personally I wouldn't do it and sacrifice the ride quality.
Or you could just split a garden hose and use it as a tire liner

wolfchild

That's exactly what I do. Why spend money on elastic bands when I can make them for free.

Darth Lefty 

Life has always sent me enough rubber bands; I think the only time I ever bought any was when I needed exactly the right size for strapping on a model airplane wing.

Papa Tom

>>>The last time I was in there, I asked for a new chain and the manager tried to sell me a whole new drivetrain.<<<<

Typically, when you replace a chain, it's a good idea to replace the cassette on your rear wheel, too. I don't think the bike shop was trying to rip you off, necessarily. It's just kind of standard to suggest that to a customer who comes in for a chain replacement.

eastbay71

Really? This is totally off topic but you've sucked me in. What is the possible risk that justifies this massive expense? I really don't see the return on investment. I don't see this as anything but a LBS taking advantage of a customer.

-=(8)=-

I guess this is a "new bike" thing . . .
On an old ten speed, with just 5, big thick cogs on the back, the chain and cluster might last for decades. I know Ive gotten bikes off craigslist that still have what Im sure are the original cogs and chain, but they last a long time.
On new bikes, with insane number of back cogs, 7-10(?!?!?) Everything is real thin and flimsy and the chain needs to bend in weird ways to reach certain cogs.
I got my first post-1986 geared bike ever the other day, a Trek 1000, and am surprised at the drive system. I can now see why a dealer would say that(changing chains and cogs) and think there might be some validity to it