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Old 07-27-14, 07:26 PM   #1
oreome78
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Mounting Rack Issue

Hi All!

I was wondering if anyone could help me. I have an Axiom MK Journey Uni_Fit rear rack Robot Check

and have been unsuccessfully trying to mount it to a 26" schwinn sidewinder.

My issue is with the eyelets on the bike itself. A 5mm threaded bolt that came with the kit(as well as the 1 used for the water bottle mount) is to small for the eyelet thread and a 6mm will turn once, but is obviously too big. I'm also concerned about the clearance between the gear and the eyelet as displayed below.

Can anyone give me any assistance in successfully mounting ANYTHING on this rack. The manual doesn't disclose the size and I'm at a stale mate and ready to give up :-( Thanks in advance


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Old 07-27-14, 07:42 PM   #2
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You might want to have your local Bike Shop (LBS) try to chase those threads with an M5 or an M6 tap if the M5 tap doesn't fit.

The screw doesn't have to stick out much at all. This may be a case where you remove the rear wheel, mount up the rack and them carefully hacksaw off the protruding part of the bolt close to the dropout and then carefully file the end smooth before remounting the wheel. You could also mark it with something like a magic marker, remove it cut, file and remount just to help reduce the chance of scratching your frame.
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Old 07-27-14, 08:23 PM   #3
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Deleted after rereading the OP.

Last edited by SwampDude; 07-27-14 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 07-27-14, 09:23 PM   #4
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Yea, threading it in (with wheel off in this case) then trimming the excess off has worked for me on different things. There may be some over-spray in the threads causing difficulty to grab? If it turns once, then it may be grabbing unevenly. Have you also tried just the screw by itself?

Also, if you do trim the end of the screw down, i reccomend a good rasp (metal file) vs a hacksaw. Sawing can cause sharp edges, while rasps were designed to leave a smooth surface.

Keep us posted!

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Old 07-27-14, 10:00 PM   #5
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threads are covered in paint and need chasing out with a tap.
Leave some thread standing out, maybe 0.5 - 1 turn. Make sure you account for washers
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Old 07-28-14, 05:27 AM   #6
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Thanks everyone!!! I'll work on it after work today. I'm going to call schwinn to confirm the size of the thread :-) The 5mm sits loose inside the thread so i know it's to small...it may be the 6mm and just needs chasing! THANKS! I'll let you know how it goes!
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Old 07-28-14, 08:44 AM   #7
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well after speaking with schwin they are telling me that the thread is an M5 x 0.5 x12 i've been using a M5 .8 pitch... would that make a huge difference and cause my problem?
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Old 07-28-14, 10:44 AM   #8
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.. work with the Bike shop ..

5mmx 0.8 thread per MM is a standard used everywhere.. 6mm standard is 1 thread per mm .
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Old 07-28-14, 11:43 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by oreome78 View Post
well after speaking with schwin they are telling me that the thread is an M5 x 0.5 x12 i've been using a M5 .8 pitch... would that make a huge difference and cause my problem?
Yep! They have the same diameter, but the threads don't have the same pitch. M5x0.5 is a fine thread- the threads are closer together than on M5x.08, which is considered a course thread.
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Old 07-31-14, 02:19 AM   #10
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well after speaking with schwin they are telling me that the thread is an M5 x 0.5 x12 i've been using a M5 .8 pitch... would that make a huge difference and cause my problem?
Time to get some screws that match the thread pattern on your frame.

I'm fortunate that my ride came with everything all ready attached. In a pinch, you can always go to the hardware store & they will likely have what you need, although they may not have the hex head.

- Andy
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Old 07-31-14, 08:39 AM   #11
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Got it! Thanks everyone

THANKS EVERYONE!
I actually called schwinn back because the size they gave me seemed unlikely. My 2nd rep told me it was standard M6. I tried the m6 previously and it would go in but only 1 turn. The bolts that came with my rack had M5 so I went to home depot and picked up the 6mm tap and cleared out the bike eyelet as well as enlarged the rack to 6mm.

Everything went smoothly :-) I'm ready to go for my test run after work tonight! :-) The end game was just to get something for a cheap bike to throw my chest waders and wading boots in so I can hit Ohiopyle and some other fisheries this weekend!

Thanks for all your help! I'm hopeful everything stays together for the ride tonight!


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Old 07-31-14, 01:30 PM   #12
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THANKS EVERYONE!
I actually called schwinn back because the size they gave me seemed unlikely. My 2nd rep told me it was standard M6. I tried the m6 previously and it would go in but only 1 turn. The bolts that came with my rack had M5 so I went to home depot and picked up the 6mm tap and cleared out the bike eyelet as well as enlarged the rack to 6mm.

Everything went smoothly :-) I'm ready to go for my test run after work tonight! :-) The end game was just to get something for a cheap bike to throw my chest waders and wading boots in so I can hit Ohiopyle and some other fisheries this weekend!

Thanks for all your help! I'm hopeful everything stays together for the ride tonight!


Nice! Enjoy your fishing!

- Andy
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Old 07-31-14, 02:30 PM   #13
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put a flat washer under the bolt head of = thickness to the bolt overrun(your arrow), and it will stop flush to the inside face.

longer top struts would let you level the rack top ,, a typical bike shop has a bin full of them ..

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Old 07-31-14, 04:35 PM   #14
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^^^What he said. Just one more washer should do the trick.
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Old 07-31-14, 07:50 PM   #15
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longer top struts would let you level the rack top ,, a typical bike shop has a bin full of them ..
I used a 700 rack on a 26" bike and had the same top slope.

Fixed with a seat clamp/rack mount combo. From Axiom, I think. Problem Solvers also offers one.

Worked GREAT!!!
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Old 08-01-14, 09:15 AM   #16
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lower angle .. as the size of the frame is smaller the distance to the mounting points on the chainstay mounting bolt get longer the struts need to increase

those widgets onto the seatpost do move the mounting point Up. if the frame already uses a separate seat post clamp band, not one brazed on .


those upper struts.. stabilize the ones to the dropout eyelet are supporting the weight , generally..
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