Jeremy E.

I will commute a short distance on a gravel road, followed by 12 miles on a good highway, then about 4 miles city riding, and then reversed for the way back. May occasionally pick up groceries on way home.
I've never ridden a drop bar bike before.
I am willing to spend $500-$1200(including pedals, special shoes?, potential seat changes, LBS doing a fitting/tuning, lights/reflectors/fenders/racks, etc.), the closer to the $500 mark the better.
In my research I've come up with a list of what I think should be my preferences
1. Probably a cyclocross bike.
2. Disc Brakes.
3. Bikes Direct Bike(seems to be best value)
4. 2x10 or 2x11 gears with 34x50t or 36x46t compact crank(not a must but a preference)
5. 54-56cm (I am 5'10")
Things that I'm not sure about
1. Flat bar or drop bar? I've never rode a drop bar bike
2. Angle between seat and handlebars, I've noticed some are about the same level, and some have a much higher seat, I'm worried the higher seat will make it much less comfortable.
3. Should I get the special pedals/shoes that attach together but I can still walk in them?
Here are some bikes I'm considering
1.Save up to 60% off new Flat Bar Road Bikes - Gravity Liberty FB | Save up to 60% off new road bikes
2.Save up to 60% off new Disc Brake Road Bikes - Gravity Liberty 2 | Save up to 60% off new road bikes
3.Save up to 60% off Avid Disc Brake SRAM Apex Cyclocross | Cross Bikes - Motobecane Fantom Cross
4.Save Up to 60% Off Disc Brake Cross Bikes SRAM Rival Cyclocross | Cross Bikes, Road Bikes - Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro
#4 could break my budget and I wouldn't get it till November.

What do you guys think? Am I going about this the right way? Give it to me straight.

Grillparzer

The drop down handle bars are easy to get used to, so I wouldn't be that concerned about them. You'll figure them out in one ride and they offer more hand positions than a straight handle bar. The problem with the Bike Direct bikes is that you will probably have to have them tuned by an LBS before riding them. As you intend to have a fitting done as well that may not be an issue. Check out your local LBS's before purchasing one on line though, they may have models in stock that would work for you and it would allow you to do a test ride first. I use platform pedals, Crank Brother 5050's, for my eight and a half mile commute from Maryland down through D.C. and have nothing but praise for them, but it's a personal preference of mine. You can get more power out of clip less pedals as they allow you to pull the pedals up as well as push them down. Saddle height to handle bars is also a personal preference and can be dealt with when you do the fitting.

Since you have time before you make your purchase, I suggest doing searches for Bike Direct and the specific bikes you're interested in here on BF. People on the forum are incredible generous with their experience and advice. I know there is a long thread on Bike Direct and debates just about every aspect of dealing with them and their products. Before obligating yourself to a Bike Direct purchase, look at other manufacturer's products as well. There are a lot of good bikes out there that will fulfill your need. I ride a Surly Cross Check which would be a purchase on the upper end of or exceed your budget, but it's a great commuter bike.

kingston 

I agree with Grillparzer that you should go to a local shop. I don't have a problem with bikes direct, I just don't think it's a good option if you aren't a pretty decent mechanic; same thing with craigslist, where you can find some really great bikes in that price range.

RunForTheHills

The accessories may cost you more than you are planning. I bought a one and half year old Jamis Nova Sport a few weeks ago for $450 on Craigslist. It was about half of what a new one runs. It is aluminum and has disc brakes and a lower end Shimano groupset (2300?) that includes brifters with downtube handlebars. I have spent that much and more on accessories for it for commuting: A new saddle (Brooks Flyer $108), shorter stem ($54), adjustable seatpost ($63 - the stock one doesn't tilt), Topeak rack ($54) and trunk bag ($80), wheel with dynamo hub ($160) and dynamo lights ($240), new cassette and chain ($50), new pedals ($54), U-lock ($36), Schwalbe Mararthon Supreme tires ($130) and those are just the pricier items, there was a bunch miscellaneous stuff too: Pump, bottle cage, bell, mirror, saddle bag, tube, tools, etc. It did come with fenders, but not the mounting hardware for them. Hopefully I will have time to put it all together this weekend and get to use the bike.

Jeremy E.

Thanks for the info, my lbs only sells new bikes, and only 2 cyclocross bikes, the cheapest being $1000 for a 2014 trek crossrip, but I think the $900 motobecane above is much better, (over my only 2 days of research), so you more experienced people probably know much better than me. I'll definitely get them to fit/tune the bike after I assemble it.

bmthom.gis

Check if they can order 2014 or earlier from their supplier. With 2015s coming out they eill want to get rid of the 14 stuff.the thing about buying from your lbs is thry often offer up free tune ups for a period, free adjustments, discounts on accessories (for example, the shop i sometimes work at offers free tuneups for the first 90 days, free adjustments for life, 10% off accessories - and sometimes throwing in something as a way of discounting your initial purchase, as well as a points reward program so that ever 200 you spend you get 10 bucks off, so if you buy a 1000 bike, thats 50 bucks right there....a good reae light). Buying from bikes direct might seem cheaper but if you are less than 200 difference, you usually get better bang from your LBS

bmthom.gis

And to comment on Runforthehills, you don't need to spend nearly that much on accessories with a new bike. Use the stock tires until they crap out, you dont need a brooks saddle right away (I've been "needing" one for about a year now, hah), you certainly dont need dynamo hubs and lights. Chanes are all you "need" to get started are a bottle cage, a rack, a bag of some.kind, front and rear lights and maybe a set of clothes

bmthom.gis

Well...and a pump bc i am assuming you don't have one and a spare tube/tire levers and a way to inflate on the road. The rest of it...just wait until a part wears out and then replace it with what you want

NormanF

I'd spend a little more, get a Gravity Zilla monstercross and throw on some 29 X 2.0 tires on it.

You don't need expensive pedals/shoes. Wide platform pedals will be sufficient.

You need a good rear rack and a set of panniers or if you don't want to break your budget, Wald folding rear baskets will get you started on daily commuting rides.

Good luck!

Jeremy E.

The zilla seems more focused on trail riding I think, having to do very minimal gravel riding, with 12 highway miles each day, wouldn't skinnier tires and a lighter bike with more road bikish angles make more sense? Like the moto fantom cross disc, that's the one I'm leaning towards

RunForTheHills

That is true. I was just pointing out that you can blow the budget quickly, not that I am really on a budget. I just spent way too much on the Brompton and was trying to take it easy. Because I bought a used bike, the chain and cassette were worn and I wanted different gearing. I didn't like the tires the previous owner had put on it even though they are pretty new. The saddle that came on it was unbearable, but there are cheaper seats than Brooks. There are cheaper dynamo lights too, but I really liked the Edeluxe II I put on the Brompton, so I bought another one for this bike.

PaulRivers

It's true that for most people they can ride a bike that's one of two sizes in the bike size lineup if adjusted properly - like they could ride a 54cm or a 56cm and be fine with a decent fitting and adjustments. However, it's also true that the #1 mistake I personally see people make in buying a bike is buying the wrong size because "it's a good deal", or because the shop wants to sell them something in stock and they only have the wrong size in stock.

The cheapest way to go is a flat bar bike. At entry level, it's usually about half the cost to get a flat bar vs a road bike.
Decent Entry Level Flat Bar: $400
Decent Entry Level Road: $800
Decent Entry Level Cyclocross: $1,000

I think you're 100% right that if you're riding any actual dirt roads, you want to be able to accommodate a fatter tire. I've tried riding my 23c road bike on Iowan gravel roads, lol - it doesn't work for more than just crossing the road very awkwardly.

Generally you'll be a little faster on a road bike than a flat bar bike, but not hugely so. Your fitness level will make a bigger difference.

Some "road" bikes do come with cyclocross level clearance fyi - like the Specialized Sequoia.

I would ask why you want disc brakes - they are better if you're biking in the wet, but otherwise on a relatively skinny tire bike they don't make much of a difference. They add some cost, and hassle if they start squealling when wet or the slight rub most have (in my experience) is annoying to you.

I wouldn't worry about clipless pedals and shoes at your price range. They make maybe a small difference in riding power (it's debated a lot whether they really help, with studies of pro cyclists even), but I'd get decent flat pedals like these:
Robot Check

And I'd rather spend my money on faster rolling tires than clipless pedals and shoes - at your price range.

bmthom.gis

Don't misunderstand me...sounds like a super sweet setup and i am envious

Jeremy E.

It rains/snows pretty regularly here, and disc brakes just seem so much better, I found 9/16" primo super tenderizer pedals on Craigslist for $10, is the test for pedals just if they spin well? And is primo a good brand? I found the same pedals for $27 on amazon

RunForTheHills

I bought the MKS Lambda pedals and really like them. The Primo seems similar. If you don't like them, you are only out $10.

silentlysailing

I have a set of blue ones on my bike. I really like them for a platform. They take a lot of abuse. Also they grip my shoes really well. I wear worn out skate shoes while riding though. Over time the color has worn off a little in spots but not bad.

I know I personally avoided some pedals because they didn't spin well and were notchy. The other thing would just be to look and see if grease is leaking out of the bearings, nothing bent and no missing pins.

Jeremy E.

Thanks, I think I'll go take a look at em and probably pick em up

PennyTheDog

PaulR mentioned that you might not need disc brakes. I've never had them, so they might be awesome, but I ride all year in Minnesota with cantis and v-brakes, and I've always been happy with them. If you were flexible on the brakes, you'd have a lot more good options close to $500.

a1penguin

PaulRivers gives good advice about price expectations. I think that Bikes Direct offers decent value for $ in the higher end bikes. But there are enough stories about BD that I would pay my LBS the $ for bike assembly and check. On a lower end bike, that eats into your savings. Often your LBS will also provide some kind of free service after purchase and possibly a discount on accessories.

You might want to start out with a used flat bar bike from Craigslist and if you really like it and want more, sell that bike and purchase a road bike. Better than dripping a lot of cash on a bike to find that it doesn't suit you.

alathIN

This thread reminds me of the old saw: "The purpose of your first bike is to teach you what you want for your second bike."

My vote would be to pick up something on craigslist, go cheap on accessories, and commute for a while.
You will learn more about your needs in 1 week of actual commuting than you would in in a year of questions on bikeforum.

Regarding shoes/pedals combo:
I have had power grips Amazon.com : Power Grips Sport Pre-Assembled Strap/Pedal Kit, Black : Replacement Cycling Cleats : Sports & Outdoors on my commuter/errands bike for 6 years. (The amazon link is one that has the pedals and power grips together, but you can get the power grips separately and install them on most regular platform pedals too).
Don't get me wrong: I love my bike shoes and clipless pedals on my road bike. When I want to go fast and long, they're awesome.
But for everyday bike use, it's just a bit more hassle than I want to deal with multiple different pairs of shoes. The power grips get you about 70% of the benefit of clipless, and you can use whatever shoes you happen to be wearing. Works great for me.

I only started riding in the dark about 6 weeks ago, and for a quick solution I got some cheap flashlight mounts on amazon and a couple of cheap LED flashlights. I set one on strobe mode and the other on constant. That and red planet bike blinking rear lights have worked great for me. I intended this as a temporary set up, but it's working well enough I'm not very motivated to replace them. If someone steals these lights off my bike, I'm out about $20 and the set up is perfectly serviceable.

Didn't see on your list, but I just recently discovered the magic of fenders. This has transformed my experience of riding in the rain. Definitely worth looking in to.

path4

So true! The thing is that my second taught me what I want for my third bike. Compared with gas and parking or train pass, you are still saving money. Treat yourself well!

rumrunn6

I vote drop bars, that's a serious commute

Jeremy E.

I'll do drop bars,
I'm pretty sure cyclocross is the way to go, and hopefully I can just get 1 bike and like it.
I'm now looking into a few bikes with cantilever brakes aswell

path4

You already have some ideas for your 1st bike. You will certainly have more ideas leading to your 2nd, 3rd... But I see it as positive and healthy obsession.

PennyTheDog

If you're considering cantilever brakes, I think this looks like a nice one for the money from bikes direct:
Save up to 60% off new Cyclocross Road Bikes - Motobecane Fantom CX Clearance

They also have this steel touring bike that looks nice:
Save Up to 60% Off Touring Bikes | Commuting | Commuter Bikes | Motobecane Bikes - Gran Turismo for touring the country there is nothing better