Sullalto

They read more like English as a 2nd(or more) language than a poor writer in their native language, to me. Especially since US measurements and currency aren't the first thing they write.


18 minute commute? I wouldn't worry. You'll probably sweat less taking 22 minutes to be leisurely, if that's your goal. If it's hot enough to sweat instantly, it doesn't matter.

Pack some baby wipes and a spare shirt in your backpack. Speaking of, get a rack, and put the backpack on that. I sweat a lot more with something on my back, due to less evaporative cooling. Walk out the door in a tshirt, get to school. Hang out for 15 minutes, let the sweat dry. Wipe down, change shirts.

Wear lighter fabric than denim if you aren't in shorts, or change your entire outfit as well.

SentinelAeon

You are right about english being my second language
Backpack is really bad for sweating, this summer i noticed that even when im completely dry everywhere else, i am sweaty in the area of lower back. I made a "secret chamber" in my backpack and added a thin block of frozen water crystals and it really helped. I even thought about adding a fan there but i just didnt have the time to do it properly.
I am glad that i have a winter ahead of me, its easy to ride in cold, as for the summer, i will really have to learn to drive slow.

Saving Hawaii

@SentinelAeon:

This is a bit off-topic but how exactly are you shifting? You should continue pedaling through the shift. Maybe lay off the pressure a bit. But you don't want to shift if you're not pedaling at the moment. Shift while you're pedaling.

SentinelAeon

That is how i do it, but like you said, i lay off the pressure a bit. Maybe with new casette and chain i will be able to shift better, right now if i dont lay off the pressure, the chain will skip.

SentinelAeon

Hello everyone,

I installed my new casette and chain. I got both of them for 31€ ( 37 dolars ). I bought shimano alivio hg-51 casette and KMC X8 93 chain. Tomorrow i will test the setup to see how it is.

Just for the fun of it i weighted my old and new casette and chain. My old casette was 375g ( 13.2 oz ), new one is 305g ( 10.7 oz), old chain was 277g (9.7 oz), new one is 335g ( 11.8 oz), but .. the new chain is also longer. So now i have to figure out how long should my chain be. I am following this guide, but this doesnt seem like very exact method, it could be like 2 teeth less or more:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9glAbAV3bM

SentinelAeon

You were right about the hub, something is very wrong. For instance, front wheelspinning is more smooth then rear one, and front one has 9 bearings on 1 side and 10 on the other, meaning 1 is missing ( rear has 9 on both sides ) and still it is better then a "complete" one. I literaly spent hours going back and forth between the axle woobling and between it barely moving ( it was basicly hard to turn with hand and u could feel it grinding, if u loosened it, u could feel tiny movement of axle ). In the end i somehow managed to do rear with no woobling and front with nano woobling. But straight away i can say there is a lot of improvement potential here. I cant tell you how much i feel that friction, even if i loosen the hub axle, the difference is huge. I do plan to get new hubs in the future but i am trying to figure out how much this will cost me. And i dont even want to think about placing all those spikes into a new hub :S