A few beginner questions about bicycle
12-09-14, 01:22 PM
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A few beginner questions about bicycle
Hello, this is my first post on this forum, i wasn't sure where my topic would fit, if this is the wrong place, i hope the mods can move it to appropriate place.
I am using my bicycle everyday to go to college, it takes me about 18 minutes to get from my home to college. While in my free time i want my bike to be as fast as it can be ( not soo much about top speed, more about acceleration ), i also want it to be as efficient as possible because, especialy in hotter days, you can easily sweat and there is no shower in college, it is a pain to sit there for 6 hours if you are sweated allover. Meaning the less power i need to ride bicycle, the less i will sweat.
Right now i am using sort of a hybrid bicycle .. i bought a second hand author touring bicycle with steel frame and replaced it with mountain bike aluminium frame, not just for the weight, i also like the look of it. The frame is nothing special, basicly not much different then touring bicycle frame, a little wider maybe. Right now i am using tread-less tires - schwalbe kojak 26 x 2.0 tires. I like the tires, moving from 26 x 1.95 slightly treaded tires, the difference was quite big. The tires allow 4 bars, i never fill them that much though since i dont have an air pump with gauge and i dont want to risk it.
I would like to improve my bike in terms of achiving more speed with less efford. I have to mention that i already used the cheapest improvement there is - i am working on my fitnes.
There are several options to improve my bicycle, i read about it, and i have a few questions about it.
a) if i were to replace those 26x2.0 tires with 26x1.5 or 26x1.3 tires, how much of a difference would this alone provide ? I guess i wont improve the bike much with different material since kojak already has no treads.
b) I know that weight on wheels makes a bigimpact on performance, even more when weight is on the far end of wheel. If i were to replace the rim ( basicly i bought the cheapest they had in the store ) with something lighter, how much difference would it make ? Tire weight is less important in this case i think, because kojak is quite light as it is.
c) if i were to replace bicycle hub with a better one, how much difference it would make ? I do remember a while ago i set the hub to be less tight and the bike felt a lot "lighter" to drive. I couldnt leave it that was though, because if i tried to move the wheel left and right, i could fil there is a small gap and i guess that is not safe to drive.
d) the gear shifter is fine, it is quite old though. I was wondering if switching it to a better one will result in better performance
e) the last time i was at a bicycle shop they measured my chain and cassette and said it will need to be replaced because the they are both worn and the distance between links is therefor bigger then it should be. How much of a performance inpact does this have ? When riding a bike i can slightly feel this as i spin. Would better chain give me performance boost ?
I am sorry for such a long post but i am really keen to learn more about bicycles, since it is and will always be my main form of transportation. I did a lot of reading on the internet but i found some contradicting informations ... for instance wheel weight, some ppl say it affects ride a lot, others say it is like 0.1% performance boost when you lower weight of rims for 50%. I hope you can answer some of my questions and let me better understand what affects the bicycle ride most ( apart from obvious that is riders drag - aerodynamics, weight, fitnes, and so on ). Thank you in advance for your answers !
I am using my bicycle everyday to go to college, it takes me about 18 minutes to get from my home to college. While in my free time i want my bike to be as fast as it can be ( not soo much about top speed, more about acceleration ), i also want it to be as efficient as possible because, especialy in hotter days, you can easily sweat and there is no shower in college, it is a pain to sit there for 6 hours if you are sweated allover. Meaning the less power i need to ride bicycle, the less i will sweat.
Right now i am using sort of a hybrid bicycle .. i bought a second hand author touring bicycle with steel frame and replaced it with mountain bike aluminium frame, not just for the weight, i also like the look of it. The frame is nothing special, basicly not much different then touring bicycle frame, a little wider maybe. Right now i am using tread-less tires - schwalbe kojak 26 x 2.0 tires. I like the tires, moving from 26 x 1.95 slightly treaded tires, the difference was quite big. The tires allow 4 bars, i never fill them that much though since i dont have an air pump with gauge and i dont want to risk it.
I would like to improve my bike in terms of achiving more speed with less efford. I have to mention that i already used the cheapest improvement there is - i am working on my fitnes.
There are several options to improve my bicycle, i read about it, and i have a few questions about it.
a) if i were to replace those 26x2.0 tires with 26x1.5 or 26x1.3 tires, how much of a difference would this alone provide ? I guess i wont improve the bike much with different material since kojak already has no treads.
b) I know that weight on wheels makes a bigimpact on performance, even more when weight is on the far end of wheel. If i were to replace the rim ( basicly i bought the cheapest they had in the store ) with something lighter, how much difference would it make ? Tire weight is less important in this case i think, because kojak is quite light as it is.
c) if i were to replace bicycle hub with a better one, how much difference it would make ? I do remember a while ago i set the hub to be less tight and the bike felt a lot "lighter" to drive. I couldnt leave it that was though, because if i tried to move the wheel left and right, i could fil there is a small gap and i guess that is not safe to drive.
d) the gear shifter is fine, it is quite old though. I was wondering if switching it to a better one will result in better performance
e) the last time i was at a bicycle shop they measured my chain and cassette and said it will need to be replaced because the they are both worn and the distance between links is therefor bigger then it should be. How much of a performance inpact does this have ? When riding a bike i can slightly feel this as i spin. Would better chain give me performance boost ?
I am sorry for such a long post but i am really keen to learn more about bicycles, since it is and will always be my main form of transportation. I did a lot of reading on the internet but i found some contradicting informations ... for instance wheel weight, some ppl say it affects ride a lot, others say it is like 0.1% performance boost when you lower weight of rims for 50%. I hope you can answer some of my questions and let me better understand what affects the bicycle ride most ( apart from obvious that is riders drag - aerodynamics, weight, fitnes, and so on ). Thank you in advance for your answers !
12-09-14, 01:30 PM
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Get a used road bike with a compact double crank set (50 X 34 chain rings) and 700 X 23 tires..
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12-09-14, 02:08 PM
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what college has no shower? no gym? wutz your tuition like? bike sounds like a tank, get a road bike. don't replace the tires, replace the bike. don't replace the rims replace the bike. don't replace the hub replace the bike. don't switch the gear shifter, switch the bike. worn bike chains are fine until they start to skip. don't replace them, replace the bike.
... or ... what 10wheels said ...!
... or ... what 10wheels said ...!
12-09-14, 02:15 PM
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+1 on replace the bike. However, I'd still use your current bike for commuting (just replace whatever needs replacing, i.e., chain, etc.). I don't know what school you're attending, but every one I've known of was a hotbed for stolen bikes. If it has 2 wheels and can be ridden, someone will try to steal it. Hence my recommendation to keep riding your current bike (especially if you're locking it up for 6+ hours at a time. Get a good used road bike if you have somewhere safe to keep it, and ride it on weekends.
12-09-14, 02:27 PM
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> i want my bike to be as fast as it can be ( not soo much about top speed, more about acceleration )
Acceleration is all about weight, first in the wheels, then in the rest of the bike.
If you find yourself stopping and starting a lot, swtich to a lower gear as you come to a stop. You'll be able to accelerate faster once you start moving again, then quickly shift to a higher gear.
> in hotter days, you can easily sweat and there is no shower in college, it is a pain to sit there for 6 hours if you are sweated allover.
A couple solutions here. One is to shower right before your ride. If you shower right before you head out, you won't smell.
On a really hot ride, I usually go to the bathroom and change into a clean T-shirt, clean underwear, and clean socks. Just bring them in a backpack
Another solution one is wool socks. Sounds like the opposite of what you want, but wool wicks away sweat. Your feet will not be wet and gross at school. Wool shirts and underwear are available from SmartWool, but they're very expensive and don't last that long in my experience.
>The tires allow 4 bars, i never fill them that much though since i dont have an air pump with gauge and i dont want to risk it.
You might actually see an improvement keeping your tires at a lower inflation. Give it a try a few times. Higher pressure can actually make your tires slower.
I'm surprised you feel the Kojaks are slower than your tires with tread. What pressure were you running them at? You should try them again at the lower end of the recommended pressure.
The other comments are correct - if you want to spend the least amount of money to make your bike faster, you want a road bike. That is assuming you ride on pavement.
If you ride on gravel and dirt, you might want to stick with your hybrid.
One factor you are not considering is aerodynamics. On a hybrid, you are sitting upright, so your body catches a lot of wind. On a road bike, you lean forward, and there is less wind resistance ot slow you down.
a) if i were to replace those 26x2.0 tires with 26x1.5 or 26x1.3 tires, how much of a difference would this alone provide ? I guess i wont improve the bike much with different material since kojak already has no treads.
You might see some speed improvement with a 1.5 or 1.3 tire. Panaracer Pasela is a common choice. If you want to spend a lot, try Vitorria Randonneur Pro in 1.5: Randonneur Pro - Vittoria.com
b) I know that weight on wheels makes a bigimpact on performance, even more when weight is on the far end of wheel. If i were to replace the rim ( basicly i bought the cheapest they had in the store ) with something lighter, how much difference would it make ? Tire weight is less important in this case i think, because kojak is quite light as it is.
Tire weight is just as important, but you're right. Kojaks are light (especially the folding bead version).
You can get really light 26" wheels, but the cost will be more than your bike is worth. Again, road bike is the way to go. It won't be worth the price to upgrade in most cases.
If you're taking about buying rims and building wheels, that is a lot of effort and probably not something you want to tackle as a beginning rider. It's cool, but challenging!
c) if i were to replace bicycle hub with a better one, how much difference it would make ? I do remember a while ago i set the hub to be less tight and the bike felt a lot "lighter" to drive. I couldnt leave it that was though, because if i tried to move the wheel left and right, i could fil there is a small gap and i guess that is not safe to drive.
Hub weight is not a big issue since it's not rotating near the ends of the wheel.
But your comment about making them less tight helping your ride concerns me. Did a bike mechanic install these wheels, and are they new?
If they are old, the hubs might need new grease. The grease in the hubs can get old and harden, or leak out, making the bike feel sluggish.
d) the gear shifter is fine, it is quite old though. I was wondering if switching it to a better one will result in better performance
It will only improve the smoothness of shifting. you can drop a lot of money on an expensive shifter/derailleur, but the weight you save won't be much.
e) the last time i was at a bicycle shop they measured my chain and cassette and said it will need to be replaced because the they are both worn and the distance between links is therefor bigger then it should be. How much of a performance inpact does this have ? When riding a bike i can slightly feel this as i spin. Would better chain give me performance boost ?
Huge!!! Do this immediately. A worn-out, dirty chain will make your bike feel slow and it will shift poorly.
A worn cassette will make your shifting poor
Replacing a chain and cassette is a good learners DIY project. You will need a few tools, but a new chain and cassette should only cost around $30 if you go for the cheap options.
You should also learn to remove and clean your chain every few weeks. This will greatly improve performance and make it last longer.
Acceleration is all about weight, first in the wheels, then in the rest of the bike.
If you find yourself stopping and starting a lot, swtich to a lower gear as you come to a stop. You'll be able to accelerate faster once you start moving again, then quickly shift to a higher gear.
> in hotter days, you can easily sweat and there is no shower in college, it is a pain to sit there for 6 hours if you are sweated allover.
A couple solutions here. One is to shower right before your ride. If you shower right before you head out, you won't smell.
On a really hot ride, I usually go to the bathroom and change into a clean T-shirt, clean underwear, and clean socks. Just bring them in a backpack
Another solution one is wool socks. Sounds like the opposite of what you want, but wool wicks away sweat. Your feet will not be wet and gross at school. Wool shirts and underwear are available from SmartWool, but they're very expensive and don't last that long in my experience.
>The tires allow 4 bars, i never fill them that much though since i dont have an air pump with gauge and i dont want to risk it.
You might actually see an improvement keeping your tires at a lower inflation. Give it a try a few times. Higher pressure can actually make your tires slower.
I'm surprised you feel the Kojaks are slower than your tires with tread. What pressure were you running them at? You should try them again at the lower end of the recommended pressure.
The other comments are correct - if you want to spend the least amount of money to make your bike faster, you want a road bike. That is assuming you ride on pavement.
If you ride on gravel and dirt, you might want to stick with your hybrid.
One factor you are not considering is aerodynamics. On a hybrid, you are sitting upright, so your body catches a lot of wind. On a road bike, you lean forward, and there is less wind resistance ot slow you down.
a) if i were to replace those 26x2.0 tires with 26x1.5 or 26x1.3 tires, how much of a difference would this alone provide ? I guess i wont improve the bike much with different material since kojak already has no treads.
You might see some speed improvement with a 1.5 or 1.3 tire. Panaracer Pasela is a common choice. If you want to spend a lot, try Vitorria Randonneur Pro in 1.5: Randonneur Pro - Vittoria.com
b) I know that weight on wheels makes a bigimpact on performance, even more when weight is on the far end of wheel. If i were to replace the rim ( basicly i bought the cheapest they had in the store ) with something lighter, how much difference would it make ? Tire weight is less important in this case i think, because kojak is quite light as it is.
Tire weight is just as important, but you're right. Kojaks are light (especially the folding bead version).
You can get really light 26" wheels, but the cost will be more than your bike is worth. Again, road bike is the way to go. It won't be worth the price to upgrade in most cases.
If you're taking about buying rims and building wheels, that is a lot of effort and probably not something you want to tackle as a beginning rider. It's cool, but challenging!
c) if i were to replace bicycle hub with a better one, how much difference it would make ? I do remember a while ago i set the hub to be less tight and the bike felt a lot "lighter" to drive. I couldnt leave it that was though, because if i tried to move the wheel left and right, i could fil there is a small gap and i guess that is not safe to drive.
Hub weight is not a big issue since it's not rotating near the ends of the wheel.
But your comment about making them less tight helping your ride concerns me. Did a bike mechanic install these wheels, and are they new?
If they are old, the hubs might need new grease. The grease in the hubs can get old and harden, or leak out, making the bike feel sluggish.
d) the gear shifter is fine, it is quite old though. I was wondering if switching it to a better one will result in better performance
It will only improve the smoothness of shifting. you can drop a lot of money on an expensive shifter/derailleur, but the weight you save won't be much.
e) the last time i was at a bicycle shop they measured my chain and cassette and said it will need to be replaced because the they are both worn and the distance between links is therefor bigger then it should be. How much of a performance inpact does this have ? When riding a bike i can slightly feel this as i spin. Would better chain give me performance boost ?
Huge!!! Do this immediately. A worn-out, dirty chain will make your bike feel slow and it will shift poorly.
A worn cassette will make your shifting poor
Replacing a chain and cassette is a good learners DIY project. You will need a few tools, but a new chain and cassette should only cost around $30 if you go for the cheap options.
You should also learn to remove and clean your chain every few weeks. This will greatly improve performance and make it last longer.
Last edited by Pukeskywalker; 12-09-14 at 02:33 PM.
12-09-14, 05:06 PM
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First,if the chain and cassette are worn they need to be replaced,this will def effect how the bike shifts. Next,you need to get a proper pump with gauge and experiment with your tire pressure,Kojaks are excellent tires.
Where are you located? Many colleges have co-op/bike kitchens on campus or near by who can show you how to swap your chain and cassette so you don't have to pay a shop to do it.
Where are you located? Many colleges have co-op/bike kitchens on campus or near by who can show you how to swap your chain and cassette so you don't have to pay a shop to do it.
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12-09-14, 06:46 PM
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Thank you so much for all the answers, you are wonderfull !
I did skip a few details in my first post because i was afraid if it was to long, no one will read it.
I am attending a computer science college and we don't have a shower or gym there. Fortunately i am quite atypical student in our college, i am doing lots of sports so i sweat less since i am used to it, i don't need a shower, but everything that makes a ride easier is welcome, especially in the summer. For my current bike i am not afraid when i park in front of college, there are cameras and its very visible area. That said, i do not trust the cameras enough that i would buy and park an expensive bike there, scott montana was stolen from me years ago and i never want to go through this again.
I am quite handy with tools, i like to learn new things, i fixed most of the things on my bike myself and put it completely apart for lubrication many times, with the help of online guides ( i would never be able to properly setup the gearshifter without those
). I do plan to buy a new casette and chain, not soo much for performance but for fear that it will damage the chainring aswell. I will install it myself ofcourse, with some online help that is
I forgot to mention that i am on a tight budget and am looking for cheap improvemenets, buying a new bike is not an option. Road bike would be a suicide on my road to college, even with wide Kojak tires my biking skills are sometimes tested. My path to college consists of pavement ( Asphalt ) which on some parts is quite damaged, some holes are impossible to miss, part of the road goes over gravel ( on some parts that deep gravel feels like quicksand ) . I know that a bike without forward suspension would have better performance, but i had a back operation years back and forward suspension really helps me reduce shock ( amazingly when i tried full suspension bike it didnt help me, i think it made it worse because of all the up and downs ). Road bike also has a very low handlebars, that is no good for my back. I also like the way my bike looks, if you ask me this looks crazy good:
https://gallery.photo.net/photo/12128790-lg.jpg
pukeskywalker: I do remember that mechanic once filled my tires to 4 bars, it was amazing. I felt like there was no friction at all. I really have to get an air pump with gauge, they are sold for as low as 10 euros ( ~ 13 dolars ). And about slicker kojak tires ... i would be glad to go to 1.5 or even 1.3. What i am afraid of is reading online that tests proved that 25mm tires are faster then 23mm. Something about less deformation. But does this apply to such huge width as 1.5 vs 2.0 ? About kojak tires you misunderstood me. I said that 2.0 kojaks are a LOT faster then knoby tires 1.95 i had before. And even those knobby tires came from a touring bike so they were barely knobby. The only thing i regret about Kojaks is that i go so slow into corners now. Before i was going into corners at full speed ( with old tires and with kojaks ) until one time in front of a hardware store i went into a 90 degree angle, to much speed, tilted the bike to much, it was very slick tarmack and since it was a hardware store i am pretty sure it was oily too. And now i cant forget about the fall and feel like even in the slightest corner tires will lose grip and i will fall. I always had the feeling that 1.5 tire was a lot faster then 2.0 and 1.0 was faster then 1.5 . When i was talking about hub and gear shifter, i didnt mean their weight. I meant that if i got a better hub and gear shifter then maybe it would produce
less friction and therefor improve performance. As for the hubs, if i tighten them to their maximum, the wheel would barely spin. Right now i have it set the way that
wheel moves normaly but is stable at the same time ( no left/right movement ), the wheel will spin for a long time when i spin it, but if i make it less tight it will spin even longer but there will be some left/right movement. I guess if i bought more expensive hub there would be less friction. I greased it myself a few weeks ago, and i installed it the same way i saw a bike mechanic do it. Hub is not new, most things are probably 15 years old. Since i barely changed anything, i have to say i am quite lucky for it to work as well as it does. That bike is a part of me, i never go anywhere without it. Were it not for running ( jogging ), i probably wouldnt know how to walk anymore
I know that right now i am asking you to help me build a 10 ton truck, that will also be able to race against formula 1. Its impossible. What i want to do is make small changes that will help at least a little, and try to learn as much as i can about bicycles, how to fix them, etc.
I did skip a few details in my first post because i was afraid if it was to long, no one will read it.
I am attending a computer science college and we don't have a shower or gym there. Fortunately i am quite atypical student in our college, i am doing lots of sports so i sweat less since i am used to it, i don't need a shower, but everything that makes a ride easier is welcome, especially in the summer. For my current bike i am not afraid when i park in front of college, there are cameras and its very visible area. That said, i do not trust the cameras enough that i would buy and park an expensive bike there, scott montana was stolen from me years ago and i never want to go through this again.
I am quite handy with tools, i like to learn new things, i fixed most of the things on my bike myself and put it completely apart for lubrication many times, with the help of online guides ( i would never be able to properly setup the gearshifter without those
). I do plan to buy a new casette and chain, not soo much for performance but for fear that it will damage the chainring aswell. I will install it myself ofcourse, with some online help that is I forgot to mention that i am on a tight budget and am looking for cheap improvemenets, buying a new bike is not an option. Road bike would be a suicide on my road to college, even with wide Kojak tires my biking skills are sometimes tested. My path to college consists of pavement ( Asphalt ) which on some parts is quite damaged, some holes are impossible to miss, part of the road goes over gravel ( on some parts that deep gravel feels like quicksand ) . I know that a bike without forward suspension would have better performance, but i had a back operation years back and forward suspension really helps me reduce shock ( amazingly when i tried full suspension bike it didnt help me, i think it made it worse because of all the up and downs ). Road bike also has a very low handlebars, that is no good for my back. I also like the way my bike looks, if you ask me this looks crazy good:
https://gallery.photo.net/photo/12128790-lg.jpg
pukeskywalker: I do remember that mechanic once filled my tires to 4 bars, it was amazing. I felt like there was no friction at all. I really have to get an air pump with gauge, they are sold for as low as 10 euros ( ~ 13 dolars ). And about slicker kojak tires ... i would be glad to go to 1.5 or even 1.3. What i am afraid of is reading online that tests proved that 25mm tires are faster then 23mm. Something about less deformation. But does this apply to such huge width as 1.5 vs 2.0 ? About kojak tires you misunderstood me. I said that 2.0 kojaks are a LOT faster then knoby tires 1.95 i had before. And even those knobby tires came from a touring bike so they were barely knobby. The only thing i regret about Kojaks is that i go so slow into corners now. Before i was going into corners at full speed ( with old tires and with kojaks ) until one time in front of a hardware store i went into a 90 degree angle, to much speed, tilted the bike to much, it was very slick tarmack and since it was a hardware store i am pretty sure it was oily too. And now i cant forget about the fall and feel like even in the slightest corner tires will lose grip and i will fall. I always had the feeling that 1.5 tire was a lot faster then 2.0 and 1.0 was faster then 1.5 . When i was talking about hub and gear shifter, i didnt mean their weight. I meant that if i got a better hub and gear shifter then maybe it would produce
less friction and therefor improve performance. As for the hubs, if i tighten them to their maximum, the wheel would barely spin. Right now i have it set the way that
wheel moves normaly but is stable at the same time ( no left/right movement ), the wheel will spin for a long time when i spin it, but if i make it less tight it will spin even longer but there will be some left/right movement. I guess if i bought more expensive hub there would be less friction. I greased it myself a few weeks ago, and i installed it the same way i saw a bike mechanic do it. Hub is not new, most things are probably 15 years old. Since i barely changed anything, i have to say i am quite lucky for it to work as well as it does. That bike is a part of me, i never go anywhere without it. Were it not for running ( jogging ), i probably wouldnt know how to walk anymore
I know that right now i am asking you to help me build a 10 ton truck, that will also be able to race against formula 1. Its impossible. What i want to do is make small changes that will help at least a little, and try to learn as much as i can about bicycles, how to fix them, etc.
12-09-14, 07:42 PM
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18 mins: how much time can you save? 1..2mins?
Acceleration takes a lot of effort and should be minimised if you are aiming for a low-impact commute.
Your current bike and tyres are fine for college commuting. Keep your chain maintained and lubed.
Upgrade your pump.
Acceleration takes a lot of effort and should be minimised if you are aiming for a low-impact commute.
Your current bike and tyres are fine for college commuting. Keep your chain maintained and lubed.
Upgrade your pump.
12-09-14, 08:49 PM
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Can you post a picture of your bike? Might trigger some suggestions or ideas. I still don't really have a good sense of what you are riding.
For a generic mountain bike, to make it quicker on the road, my list of inexpensive changes is:
- $0. Lower stem so bars are below saddle by a couple inches. This puts you in a more powerful position (angle of hips) and a more aerodynamic position (starts mattering around 15 mph)
- $0. Take a hacksaw and narrow the bars, so your hands are only as far apart as your shoulders, or even a little less. Aero advantage.
- $5-10. Add bar ends that you find used at your local bike co-op. Even more aero position.
- $0. Inflate tires correctly. Kind of a trial and error thing but when I was commuting on my mtb with 1.5" street tires, I usually used at least 80 psi. I liked the tires fairly hard.
- $5. Buy a spoke wrench of the correct size and true/tension your wheels. Straight, tight wheels just ride better and feel faster, and I think they might actually be (quicker).
- $0. Accelerate out of the saddle, in the right gear. Something like 36 x 16 with 26" wheels and a strong guy standing on the pedals should make the bike scoot, unless it is a real pig.
- $10. Add toe clips and straps, from the used bin at the co-op. Foot retention makes a big difference and even loose straps are better than nothing.
- $10. If your chain is worn, install a new one, a 7-8 speed chain is cheap and with luck your cassette isn't too worn. If the new chain skips on the old cassette then put the old chain back on until you can find a "newish" cassette. I'm a big fan of buying stuff used.
Edit: ah, I see the picture of your bike now. Shift spacers and flip stem to get your bar lower, cut bar narrower, do everything else I mentioned, and if that isn't fast enough, buy a road bike - you should be able to sell your mtb for enough to find an okay older road bike from craigslist.
For a generic mountain bike, to make it quicker on the road, my list of inexpensive changes is:
- $0. Lower stem so bars are below saddle by a couple inches. This puts you in a more powerful position (angle of hips) and a more aerodynamic position (starts mattering around 15 mph)
- $0. Take a hacksaw and narrow the bars, so your hands are only as far apart as your shoulders, or even a little less. Aero advantage.
- $5-10. Add bar ends that you find used at your local bike co-op. Even more aero position.
- $0. Inflate tires correctly. Kind of a trial and error thing but when I was commuting on my mtb with 1.5" street tires, I usually used at least 80 psi. I liked the tires fairly hard.
- $5. Buy a spoke wrench of the correct size and true/tension your wheels. Straight, tight wheels just ride better and feel faster, and I think they might actually be (quicker).
- $0. Accelerate out of the saddle, in the right gear. Something like 36 x 16 with 26" wheels and a strong guy standing on the pedals should make the bike scoot, unless it is a real pig.
- $10. Add toe clips and straps, from the used bin at the co-op. Foot retention makes a big difference and even loose straps are better than nothing.
- $10. If your chain is worn, install a new one, a 7-8 speed chain is cheap and with luck your cassette isn't too worn. If the new chain skips on the old cassette then put the old chain back on until you can find a "newish" cassette. I'm a big fan of buying stuff used.
Edit: ah, I see the picture of your bike now. Shift spacers and flip stem to get your bar lower, cut bar narrower, do everything else I mentioned, and if that isn't fast enough, buy a road bike - you should be able to sell your mtb for enough to find an okay older road bike from craigslist.
Last edited by jyl; 12-10-14 at 12:13 AM.
12-09-14, 10:46 PM
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Not to be a naysayer, but are you making the wrong tradeoof? How much time do you want to shave off your 18 minutes? First question I have is how much of your sweating is coming from expending energy cycling and how much is coming from being outside? Perhaps if you use a lower gear and pedal slower, you will expend less energy and will not sweat as much. If you had a decent road bike, it might become a target for thieves at school.
That's a nice looking bike! Ah, you have a mountain bike, not a hybrid. The suspension fork might slow you down a bit. Does that fork have a lockout which will make it more like a fixed fork? Looks like the tires are slicks. Knobby tires will be slower. Get s decent floor pump and pump your tires up closer to maximum allowed pressure. That should help reduce rolling resistance. I agree with the others that you may not see mich benefit sinking a lot of $ into that bike. You might be able to find a more road like hybrid used.
Have you gone to any bike stores and looked at hybrid bikes and test ridden any of them? That will give you some idea of how much a new bike costs and how much faster it might be. You could also test ride a road bike, too. Look at the price tags to become familiar with the cost of bikes so that you can make good decisions on how to spend money. For example, if you were to put $400 into your existing mountain bike, you might have been better off purchasing a new $400 hybrid.
I don't know where you live and what the local craigslist (if any) looks like. If you find some craigslist bikes, people here will offer advice. You might be able to find a half way decent vintage 10 year old road bike for $200. Not sure what your budget is.
You've received a lot of advice, but there's still homework for you to do before you can make the best decision. Keep coming back and asking more questions as you learn more. The folks in this forum are friendly and helpful.
That's a nice looking bike! Ah, you have a mountain bike, not a hybrid. The suspension fork might slow you down a bit. Does that fork have a lockout which will make it more like a fixed fork? Looks like the tires are slicks. Knobby tires will be slower. Get s decent floor pump and pump your tires up closer to maximum allowed pressure. That should help reduce rolling resistance. I agree with the others that you may not see mich benefit sinking a lot of $ into that bike. You might be able to find a more road like hybrid used.
Have you gone to any bike stores and looked at hybrid bikes and test ridden any of them? That will give you some idea of how much a new bike costs and how much faster it might be. You could also test ride a road bike, too. Look at the price tags to become familiar with the cost of bikes so that you can make good decisions on how to spend money. For example, if you were to put $400 into your existing mountain bike, you might have been better off purchasing a new $400 hybrid.
I don't know where you live and what the local craigslist (if any) looks like. If you find some craigslist bikes, people here will offer advice. You might be able to find a half way decent vintage 10 year old road bike for $200. Not sure what your budget is.
You've received a lot of advice, but there's still homework for you to do before you can make the best decision. Keep coming back and asking more questions as you learn more. The folks in this forum are friendly and helpful.
12-10-14, 07:33 AM
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Again thank you for the replies,
The picture of a bike i posted is not my bike, i just wanted to show you a bike that i think looks pretty neat with slick tires. If i had that bike i wouldnt be thinking about the upgrade i think
No, sadly i am on a much tighter budget, currently all earnings go to a bank account so i can get a place to live after i graduate from college. So i am looking at small upgrades. I love buying second hand things too, all my computers are built from second hand components. I saw certain things are quite cheap second hand here, for instance i could get a nice handlebar for 5 dolars and it is probably 3 times lighter then my steel one.
My bike is a sad looking one compared to the one i posted. But still it feels quite fast. I am not looking for certain amount of minutes to shave off, i am just looking for an improvement. This is similar to overclocking a computer, i dont look for certain amount of performance gain, i just try to get as much performance as i can get out.
First 3 things i will do ASAP are replace the chain, replace the casette and get a new pump with gauge for that high pressure.
Here are some pictures of my bike, the first one is with knobby tires and the second one is with kojaks i have right now. I really have to get 1.3 or 1.5 tires because those 2.0 look ridiculous.
The picture of a bike i posted is not my bike, i just wanted to show you a bike that i think looks pretty neat with slick tires. If i had that bike i wouldnt be thinking about the upgrade i think
No, sadly i am on a much tighter budget, currently all earnings go to a bank account so i can get a place to live after i graduate from college. So i am looking at small upgrades. I love buying second hand things too, all my computers are built from second hand components. I saw certain things are quite cheap second hand here, for instance i could get a nice handlebar for 5 dolars and it is probably 3 times lighter then my steel one.
My bike is a sad looking one compared to the one i posted. But still it feels quite fast. I am not looking for certain amount of minutes to shave off, i am just looking for an improvement. This is similar to overclocking a computer, i dont look for certain amount of performance gain, i just try to get as much performance as i can get out.
First 3 things i will do ASAP are replace the chain, replace the casette and get a new pump with gauge for that high pressure.
Here are some pictures of my bike, the first one is with knobby tires and the second one is with kojaks i have right now. I really have to get 1.3 or 1.5 tires because those 2.0 look ridiculous.
12-10-14, 07:58 AM
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jyl has some good suggestion, do you know for sure the chain and cassettes are worn? Getting a decent pump is a good idea
what is your ride like? 18 mins is not very far at all, even if you are doing a vertical climb
I would stay away from suspension bikes, they are heavier and more service required
you can lighten the bike a bit by making it a single gear, but only if your trip is relatively flat
what is your ride like? 18 mins is not very far at all, even if you are doing a vertical climb
I would stay away from suspension bikes, they are heavier and more service required
you can lighten the bike a bit by making it a single gear, but only if your trip is relatively flat
12-10-14, 09:13 AM
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Ah, I did misunderstand about your tires. Sounds like the Kojaks were a good choice.
I've read the same studies about 25mm vs 23mm and don't know if it applies to 2.0+ tires. I know when I put 1.5's (panaracer paselas) on my wife's bike, she thought they felt really fast. On the other hand, I went from 28mm tires to a 40mm/30mm (Schwalbe Marathon Supreme) on a touring bike and they feel just as fast as 28's (and much more comfortable). Remember that cushy tires will be good for your back pains too.
> The only thing i regret about Kojaks is that i go so slow into corners now. Before i was going into corners at full speed ( with old tires and with kojaks ) until one time in front of a hardware store i went into a 90 degree angle, to much speed, tilted the bike to much
I don't ride like that. I took a bad fall doing the same thing once and stopped. Someone else probably knows more than me about tread and cornering. However, I will throw in that knobbies might be worse at cornering on pavement in wet conditions.
> When i was talking about hub and gear shifter, i didnt mean their weight. I meant that if i got a better hub and gear shifter then maybe it would produce
Ah, understood. You can definitely decrease drive-train friction if both your hubs, derailleur, and chain are cleaned and well-greased.
Another thing to consider is the derailleur adjustment. If it is placing your chain in a spot between two gears, there will be added friction. Needs to be properly aligned so that shifting is smooth. You should never heard your chain rubbing on anything when you're not shifting. (like the front derailluer for instance.
> As for the hubs, if i tighten them to their maximum, the wheel would barely spin. Right now i have it set the way that wheel moves normaly but is stable at the same time ( no left/right movement ), the wheel will spin for a long time when i spin it, but if i make it less tight it will spin even longer but there will be some left/right movement.
Something is VERY wrong about that. All hubs should have nuts on them that prevent any moving part of the hub from touching the bike frame. You should be able to tighten your axles any amount and still have the wheel spinning freely and with no left/right movement.
I'm guessing you or someone else was messing with the hubs and did not put them back together correctly. This is probably something you want to take to a bike shop.
>I know that right now i am asking you to help me build a 10 ton truck, that will also be able to race against formula 1. Its impossible. What i want to do is make small changes that will help at least a little, and try to learn as much as i can about bicycles, how to fix them, etc.
You are wise beyond your experience level. Took me years and lots of money before I realized that. Now I have several bikes that each do something better than the others.
You can definitely make this bike faster, and you know the obvious first moves
1. Fix the hubs!!
2. New Chain
3. Clean cassette... maybe new cassette
4. Get the tire pressure thing right
I've read the same studies about 25mm vs 23mm and don't know if it applies to 2.0+ tires. I know when I put 1.5's (panaracer paselas) on my wife's bike, she thought they felt really fast. On the other hand, I went from 28mm tires to a 40mm/30mm (Schwalbe Marathon Supreme) on a touring bike and they feel just as fast as 28's (and much more comfortable). Remember that cushy tires will be good for your back pains too.
> The only thing i regret about Kojaks is that i go so slow into corners now. Before i was going into corners at full speed ( with old tires and with kojaks ) until one time in front of a hardware store i went into a 90 degree angle, to much speed, tilted the bike to much
I don't ride like that. I took a bad fall doing the same thing once and stopped. Someone else probably knows more than me about tread and cornering. However, I will throw in that knobbies might be worse at cornering on pavement in wet conditions.
> When i was talking about hub and gear shifter, i didnt mean their weight. I meant that if i got a better hub and gear shifter then maybe it would produce
Ah, understood. You can definitely decrease drive-train friction if both your hubs, derailleur, and chain are cleaned and well-greased.
Another thing to consider is the derailleur adjustment. If it is placing your chain in a spot between two gears, there will be added friction. Needs to be properly aligned so that shifting is smooth. You should never heard your chain rubbing on anything when you're not shifting. (like the front derailluer for instance.
> As for the hubs, if i tighten them to their maximum, the wheel would barely spin. Right now i have it set the way that wheel moves normaly but is stable at the same time ( no left/right movement ), the wheel will spin for a long time when i spin it, but if i make it less tight it will spin even longer but there will be some left/right movement.
Something is VERY wrong about that. All hubs should have nuts on them that prevent any moving part of the hub from touching the bike frame. You should be able to tighten your axles any amount and still have the wheel spinning freely and with no left/right movement.
I'm guessing you or someone else was messing with the hubs and did not put them back together correctly. This is probably something you want to take to a bike shop.
>I know that right now i am asking you to help me build a 10 ton truck, that will also be able to race against formula 1. Its impossible. What i want to do is make small changes that will help at least a little, and try to learn as much as i can about bicycles, how to fix them, etc.
You are wise beyond your experience level. Took me years and lots of money before I realized that. Now I have several bikes that each do something better than the others.
You can definitely make this bike faster, and you know the obvious first moves
1. Fix the hubs!!
2. New Chain
3. Clean cassette... maybe new cassette
4. Get the tire pressure thing right
Last edited by Pukeskywalker; 12-10-14 at 09:55 AM.
12-10-14, 09:33 AM
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The fork is probably your main hurdle to reducing weight after that. Not the tires. I don't think switching to 1.5 is worth your money if you have Kojaks. Some might disagree. (I also disagree with you on the looks -- the fat tires look cool to me).
If I had your bike, I would go Mosso fork + 1x9 drivetrain. It would cost about $80 USD to do that, and you'd have a fairly lighter bike. Mosso forks are on ebay for about $65. They are ~700g, which is probably 1/2 or 1/3 of the fork you have on there.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bi-King-MOSS...-/151337916912
(a white version is available too)
Rigid + Aluminum fork is a harsher ride. That's where your 2.0 Kojaks come in. Keeping tires that large will give you cushion on a bumpy road. Depending on how bad you back problem is, this might be a worthwhile upgrade.
1x9 drive-train would just look cool on your bike and shave a few grams. You have a punk rock bike. I'd put some stickers on it too. Urban beater style
Last edited by Pukeskywalker; 12-10-14 at 10:00 AM.
12-10-14, 04:12 PM
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Came across this build today. Dude with a Mosso fork got his aluminum MTB down to 20.2 lbs (also converted to 1x drive in the front)
WW 1x10 build finally complete, sub 21lbs for less than $900- Mtbr.com
WW 1x10 build finally complete, sub 21lbs for less than $900- Mtbr.com
12-10-14, 06:32 PM
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qclabrat: 2 seperate bike mechanics measure it with their tool and said that my chain and casette are worn, i was shocked when he told me how longer my chain is now then when it was in good condition. Also he said i should replace it as soon as possible to prevent any damage to chainring, which he said is much more expensive then casette and chain. My road to college is mostly flat with maybe 1 or 2 mild vertical climbs. About the gears, right now i have 3 rings at front and 8 rings at the back ( i dont know how they are called ). When i have it on 2 at front and i press very hard, the chain will go to a smaller ring ( its not pleasant, very loud ). I dont have a problem with that when im using the 3rd ring ( biggest ) at front. Luckily i have no problem changing gears so far, its quite smooth, using grip shifts, cant go without them. I did notice though that when i accelerate very hard, sometimes i skip a ring on purpose, because the difference between rings is soo small that i figured i waste more time shifting then i do pedaling. I dont think my techniques is that bad, i think i shift fast and use minimum amount of time not pedaling. But like i said, the difference between those rings is just to small. I was wondering if there is a casette with less rings and with bigger size difference. I understand for mountain bikes its important to have this but for me its mostly annoying. I have to figure that out asap, since casette is the first thing i will buy. Also the chain, with soo many parts, there is probably lots of friction and i am wondering if i get a better chain, will i feel the difference ( in performance i mean, not in my wallet 
). Btw i ordered a pump with a gauge. Its 1 cilinder, very cheap one, but for starters it will do. I will have to be carefull though when going towards 4 bars .. because if that gauge is off even a little, there will be a big bang.
Pukeskywalker: I remember looking at those hubs a while back and while no moving part is touching the bike frame, there is a non moving part of the hub that is touching the frame, and next to it is a moving part. And when i press that thing really hard ( but i am talking really hard here, basicly i feel if i pushed more i would break the thing ), that moving and non moving part press together. The way it is constructed i dont see any way to avoid this. Could it be that this hub is so cheap that it has no mechanism to prevent that ?
About the gear shifter, as i said it is shifting fine, there is some rubbing when i have chain on highest ring behind and on highest ring in front but u heard this should be avoided anyway because chain will be at an angle. But otherwise there is no rubbing, i took time to align it so it wont rub. But there is 1 thing that worries me, my gear shifter. If i look from behind it is bent, at least i think it is. if i put it on biggest ring front and 6th smallest ring back, the line between casette and chainring is completely in line. But then when i look at the part of gear shifter with 2 small clogs, it is moved to the left. Might be worth fixing it, this surely cant be good for performance of the bike.
That is 1 neat looking fork ! I will have to think about going no suspension though, my school m8 sometimes ride to college with me, her bike has wide MTB tires but no front suspension and it is terrible. There are a couple of places hard to avoid where, at my speed i think i would bend the rim or puncture the tire. Maybe if i did a compromise to get as light as possible suspended fork and set it to be as stiff as possible. But ofcourse this wont be the same what with extra weight and energy going into a spring. Will have to think about it. I didnt know that weight is so important that every kg counts. I often go to a grocery shop on my way home and i fill my pack with things and i cant feel any difference at all. But yeah lighter fork is a must, especially there is another part that will be added in the future and i have to compensate
I am glad you find my bike "groovy". I do plan to make it look better when i fix the necesary things. I was thinking about repainting it, white frame with almost everything else black and maybe add some "tatooes". One thing that stands out though if you look at it is my seat. It is extremely high. I am 1.8 m tall and should probably have a bigger frame. Or maybe lift the handlebars a tiny bit to compensate.
Allright i will start looking for good deals on casette and chain. It would probably best if i got those 2 parts new and not second hand because of the wear. I could check some used chains and casettes maybe if i had that measuring tool with me to see the condition, i could make such a piece out of wood or aluminium i have at home. But about other parts i think i should try to get second hand because some parts are very cheap, maybe 1/4 the price of a new part.
Again thank you for all the help, i will go search for parts now
). Btw i ordered a pump with a gauge. Its 1 cilinder, very cheap one, but for starters it will do. I will have to be carefull though when going towards 4 bars .. because if that gauge is off even a little, there will be a big bang. Pukeskywalker: I remember looking at those hubs a while back and while no moving part is touching the bike frame, there is a non moving part of the hub that is touching the frame, and next to it is a moving part. And when i press that thing really hard ( but i am talking really hard here, basicly i feel if i pushed more i would break the thing ), that moving and non moving part press together. The way it is constructed i dont see any way to avoid this. Could it be that this hub is so cheap that it has no mechanism to prevent that ?
About the gear shifter, as i said it is shifting fine, there is some rubbing when i have chain on highest ring behind and on highest ring in front but u heard this should be avoided anyway because chain will be at an angle. But otherwise there is no rubbing, i took time to align it so it wont rub. But there is 1 thing that worries me, my gear shifter. If i look from behind it is bent, at least i think it is. if i put it on biggest ring front and 6th smallest ring back, the line between casette and chainring is completely in line. But then when i look at the part of gear shifter with 2 small clogs, it is moved to the left. Might be worth fixing it, this surely cant be good for performance of the bike.
That is 1 neat looking fork ! I will have to think about going no suspension though, my school m8 sometimes ride to college with me, her bike has wide MTB tires but no front suspension and it is terrible. There are a couple of places hard to avoid where, at my speed i think i would bend the rim or puncture the tire. Maybe if i did a compromise to get as light as possible suspended fork and set it to be as stiff as possible. But ofcourse this wont be the same what with extra weight and energy going into a spring. Will have to think about it. I didnt know that weight is so important that every kg counts. I often go to a grocery shop on my way home and i fill my pack with things and i cant feel any difference at all. But yeah lighter fork is a must, especially there is another part that will be added in the future and i have to compensate
I am glad you find my bike "groovy". I do plan to make it look better when i fix the necesary things. I was thinking about repainting it, white frame with almost everything else black and maybe add some "tatooes". One thing that stands out though if you look at it is my seat. It is extremely high. I am 1.8 m tall and should probably have a bigger frame. Or maybe lift the handlebars a tiny bit to compensate.
Allright i will start looking for good deals on casette and chain. It would probably best if i got those 2 parts new and not second hand because of the wear. I could check some used chains and casettes maybe if i had that measuring tool with me to see the condition, i could make such a piece out of wood or aluminium i have at home. But about other parts i think i should try to get second hand because some parts are very cheap, maybe 1/4 the price of a new part.
Again thank you for all the help, i will go search for parts now
12-10-14, 07:07 PM
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Skinny tires are not going to magically make that into a performance bike. First,you need to get the worn out parts replaced. Next,I'd suggest ditching that suspension fork for a rigid one. You'll save alot of weight,and you won't be losing as much power to the fork's bobbing(doesn't look like you have a lockout on that fork). Again,if there's a co-op around you,you can get that done for a reasonable price.
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C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Dahon Speed Pro TT,Brompton S6L/S2E-X
12-10-14, 09:25 PM
#18
Senior Member
Maybe you should spend more time learning how to write properly than fixing up your bike. You know, spelling, punctuation, capitalization.
12-11-14, 02:22 AM
#19
contiuniously variable
No shower in college....... can't even.
- Andy
- Andy
12-12-14, 03:25 PM
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I checked the casette prices and they are somewhat lower than i expected. I have got a few choices to pick from so i will need some help.
under 12€:
- Shimano CSHG20 7
- Shimano CSHG20 7
- Shimano CSHG30 7
under 17€:
- Shimano Tourney 7
- Shimano CSHG30 8
- Sram PG-820 8
- Shimano MFTZ21 7
under 20€:
- Shimano alivio CSHG40 8
- Shimano CSHG50 7
- Shimano MFTZ31 7
Allright this are sub 20€ casettes i can get in my country. Are any of these any good ? I have 8 gear shifter but i added those with 7 cogs too because i basicly never use the biggest cog and i could just block the shifter from going there ... casettes with 7 cogs are lighter and cheaper. No point looking for the chain until i know which casette to buy.
under 12€:
- Shimano CSHG20 7
- Shimano CSHG20 7
- Shimano CSHG30 7
under 17€:
- Shimano Tourney 7
- Shimano CSHG30 8
- Sram PG-820 8
- Shimano MFTZ21 7
under 20€:
- Shimano alivio CSHG40 8
- Shimano CSHG50 7
- Shimano MFTZ31 7
Allright this are sub 20€ casettes i can get in my country. Are any of these any good ? I have 8 gear shifter but i added those with 7 cogs too because i basicly never use the biggest cog and i could just block the shifter from going there ... casettes with 7 cogs are lighter and cheaper. No point looking for the chain until i know which casette to buy.
12-12-14, 03:38 PM
#21
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Its an MTB .. on the street it will be slower than you wish .. 
But It sounds like its fast enough to get out of control in Corners
a slick tread tire will roll easier.. and that suspension fork will also hold you back ..
Live with the speed you can realistically muster till you buy a different Bike with speed-efficiency in mind.
But It sounds like its fast enough to get out of control in Corners
a slick tread tire will roll easier.. and that suspension fork will also hold you back ..
Live with the speed you can realistically muster till you buy a different Bike with speed-efficiency in mind.
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-12-14 at 03:43 PM.
12-13-14, 04:22 AM
#22
Senior Member
Coming late into the conversation, however I have been in your position in the past. Looking at the pictures of your bike, it seems to me the bike is too small for you, and really should be replaced if it were to be used for many years as a regular commuter and pleasure bike.
Some of the speed issues very well could be related to the way your body is positioned on the bike. From the pictures it looks like your body must be leaned over with much weight on the hands. The seat is tilted down to make the crotch more comfortable, but that puts more weight on the hands, and requires you to constantly push yourself back on the seat to keep from sliding off the front of the seat. This adds up to an inefficient body position that is wasting energy. You could go much faster with less effort on a bike that is the correct size for your body. Replace the bike.
If your budget prevents replacing the bike, then do the minimal amount of work to it so that it is functional, and save up money to buy a replacement that fits correctly. It may take a long time to find a good used bike that fits right, but it will make a very big difference.
Some of the speed issues very well could be related to the way your body is positioned on the bike. From the pictures it looks like your body must be leaned over with much weight on the hands. The seat is tilted down to make the crotch more comfortable, but that puts more weight on the hands, and requires you to constantly push yourself back on the seat to keep from sliding off the front of the seat. This adds up to an inefficient body position that is wasting energy. You could go much faster with less effort on a bike that is the correct size for your body. Replace the bike.
If your budget prevents replacing the bike, then do the minimal amount of work to it so that it is functional, and save up money to buy a replacement that fits correctly. It may take a long time to find a good used bike that fits right, but it will make a very big difference.
12-13-14, 03:03 PM
#23
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I was afraid of that. I did check the charts and by MTB standards my frame just barely fits my height ( my height: 1.8m - 5' 11'' ) but by touring/road standards the frame is to small. That is why i wanted to buy new forks and new handlebar to lift the front end a bit so it will be closer to my seat height.
Would it be possible to just replace the frame and keep the rest ? Shifter, tires, breaks, etc. ? I have to replace my chain and casette very soon because they are both very worn, but i would hate to buy them if i am going to throw them away 6 months later. That is why i am in favor of upgrading rather then buying a new bike because if i start saving today for a new bike i wont be able to go to college with bike for quite some time, because it will fail soon unless i replace chain and cassette, while if i slowly upgrade/improve the bike i can still use it.
As for performance, i think to some extend i was misunderstood. I do not want roadbike performance, i dont have the money nor the road to use it. But since i like this bike and its nice to drive, i was looking at ways to improve it further. A bit like adding a better exhaust to your car to make it sound better and maybe gain a horse power or two. You wouldnt go out and buy a ferrari instead because of that ..
Would it be possible to just replace the frame and keep the rest ? Shifter, tires, breaks, etc. ? I have to replace my chain and casette very soon because they are both very worn, but i would hate to buy them if i am going to throw them away 6 months later. That is why i am in favor of upgrading rather then buying a new bike because if i start saving today for a new bike i wont be able to go to college with bike for quite some time, because it will fail soon unless i replace chain and cassette, while if i slowly upgrade/improve the bike i can still use it.
As for performance, i think to some extend i was misunderstood. I do not want roadbike performance, i dont have the money nor the road to use it. But since i like this bike and its nice to drive, i was looking at ways to improve it further. A bit like adding a better exhaust to your car to make it sound better and maybe gain a horse power or two. You wouldnt go out and buy a ferrari instead because of that ..
Last edited by SentinelAeon; 12-13-14 at 03:06 PM.
12-14-14, 10:16 AM
#24
Senior Member
A wise man once said, a pig with lipstick, is still a pig.
When I was in your shoes many years ago, and had an old 1 speed bike as my only transportation, I hatched a plan. Do the minimal repairs to the bike myself to keep it running and usable for the daily 8 mile commute to school and 3 miles to work, skip eating on Saturdays other than what people would give me, and save that money for a year and buy a bike that fit and had gears. Well a year later with $300usd I bought a top of the line mountain bike from a guy who had owned it since new and was in excellent condition. It was mechanically fine, had excellent components and still serves as an errand runner to this day. I have not had to replace any of the components on the bike other than the chain, tubes, tires as they wore out.
Some of the money for that bike came from collecting pop cans on weekends after the high school kids would dump their beer cans on the roads or in the back of parking lots. That money averaged 10 bucks a week! The point is, create a plan that will solve the size problem and the performance desires at the same time, then stick to it. You will be amazed how quickly money can accumulate when there is a plan in place and a need to make it happen.
One more thing, I looked every week for used bikes just in case a super deal came about and I had enough money to buy it. A benefit to the constant vigilance on the used market is it taught me what was a good deal, and what was not, what was junk, and what was a treasure. I still buy certain bike stuff like this.
When I was in your shoes many years ago, and had an old 1 speed bike as my only transportation, I hatched a plan. Do the minimal repairs to the bike myself to keep it running and usable for the daily 8 mile commute to school and 3 miles to work, skip eating on Saturdays other than what people would give me, and save that money for a year and buy a bike that fit and had gears. Well a year later with $300usd I bought a top of the line mountain bike from a guy who had owned it since new and was in excellent condition. It was mechanically fine, had excellent components and still serves as an errand runner to this day. I have not had to replace any of the components on the bike other than the chain, tubes, tires as they wore out.
Some of the money for that bike came from collecting pop cans on weekends after the high school kids would dump their beer cans on the roads or in the back of parking lots. That money averaged 10 bucks a week! The point is, create a plan that will solve the size problem and the performance desires at the same time, then stick to it. You will be amazed how quickly money can accumulate when there is a plan in place and a need to make it happen.
One more thing, I looked every week for used bikes just in case a super deal came about and I had enough money to buy it. A benefit to the constant vigilance on the used market is it taught me what was a good deal, and what was not, what was junk, and what was a treasure. I still buy certain bike stuff like this.
12-14-14, 04:10 PM
#25
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I thought about the whole thing a bit and decided what the next course of action will be.
I ordered SHIMANO Alivio HG-51 casette and KMC X8 93 chain. I will have to check my chain rings also because i was looking at them today while driving and i have a feeling there were twisted a bit ( going left-right ). After that i plan to get second hand handlebar stem and handlebar, i saw some great deals, ppl practicly giving them away at 5€ ( ~ 7 dolars ) and some nice looking ones and light also. I plan to get an adjustable handlebar stem to make handlebars the same height as my seat. I will be on the lookout for some light forks in the meanwhile, but really only if i get some crazy deal. I will also be on the lookout for a new bigger frame, i will keep the 26 tires though. I will try to sell some of my gear too to compensate, i have another univega alpina frame somewhere ( same size as white one ), some nice looking alivio break levers and gear shifters.
Btw i am trying to imagine going to college with road bike and it kind of makes me smile. You know i broke my seat on that road a few months back ? I think i better stick to this bike and do what needs to be done. A newer picture of my baby
I ordered SHIMANO Alivio HG-51 casette and KMC X8 93 chain. I will have to check my chain rings also because i was looking at them today while driving and i have a feeling there were twisted a bit ( going left-right ). After that i plan to get second hand handlebar stem and handlebar, i saw some great deals, ppl practicly giving them away at 5€ ( ~ 7 dolars ) and some nice looking ones and light also. I plan to get an adjustable handlebar stem to make handlebars the same height as my seat. I will be on the lookout for some light forks in the meanwhile, but really only if i get some crazy deal. I will also be on the lookout for a new bigger frame, i will keep the 26 tires though. I will try to sell some of my gear too to compensate, i have another univega alpina frame somewhere ( same size as white one ), some nice looking alivio break levers and gear shifters.
Btw i am trying to imagine going to college with road bike and it kind of makes me smile. You know i broke my seat on that road a few months back ? I think i better stick to this bike and do what needs to be done. A newer picture of my baby