Is this racing road bike fine for commuting?
#26
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People Do .. theft While at school is something to reduce in possibility, by having Good Locks ..
Yours looks really expensive.. can you cope with its theft ,or would you be better off with something Cheaper that will be serviceable and less top shelf.
Yours looks really expensive.. can you cope with its theft ,or would you be better off with something Cheaper that will be serviceable and less top shelf.
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I wouldn't do a 15 mile commute on a klunker.
Your bike will be just fine. I wouldn't use anything less. You could probably figure out how to squeeze a rack onto if you wish, but backpacks also work fine.
Make sure you have flat resistant tires, a few spare tubes, and know how to change them. Most people can mount tires without tools, and with some practice, also dismount them.
As others have mentioned, make sure it is locked up securely.
Good luck
Your bike will be just fine. I wouldn't use anything less. You could probably figure out how to squeeze a rack onto if you wish, but backpacks also work fine.
Make sure you have flat resistant tires, a few spare tubes, and know how to change them. Most people can mount tires without tools, and with some practice, also dismount them.
As others have mentioned, make sure it is locked up securely.
Good luck
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Your bike doesn't look exceptionally valuable, but you could build up a "beater" in the $300 range, even less, that would serve you well.
Or, check out the Velo Cheap contest on this site (and past years contests).
Or, check out the Velo Cheap contest on this site (and past years contests).
#31
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I got this bike from a good (older) friend who wanted me to start biking more so he gave it to me for 450 with pedals and clips. So technically it is not a huge financial loss. Most commute friendly bikes I see are about 1k. Would it be cheaper to just get a wider tires for the bike? I will for sure look up good ways to lock up my bike, because I will be away from it most days for a few hours.
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Without turning this into an argument, I will add in my thoughts on this and some background on my commute/bike/gear.
My commute is 8.5 miles each way on a mix of multi user paths and roads with bike lanes and a few roads without. I have a few options when it comes to my route so that I can avoid traffic if needed. I ride one of two fixed gear track bikes, or a fat bike depending on the conditions. I am able to lock my bike up where it is protected from most of the conditions and is under 24 hour surveillance. I ride just about every day to work if possible. The exception so far has been rain. I will not ride to work in the rain as there really is nowhere for me to dry out my clothes. If it is clear when I go in and supposed to rain on my way home that is fine. I use a messenger bag to carry my work clothes, dinner, grooming stuff, lock, etc. I do not run any type of permanent fenders or racks. I have an SKS X3 Xtra Dry seat post mounted "fender" that I can only use on one of the bikes since the other has an aero seat post. I do not, and will never use a pannier on any type of bike that I own. They just are not for me or my riding style.
Bike - the bike you posted is absolutely fine to commute to work on. I would highly suggest taking it out for a few rides that are at least half the distance that you will be riding on your commute to check the fit of the bike and your riding position. Find out what works for you as far as clothing as well. Not sure what your location is, but this could play a huge part in your decision to ride.
Gear - get a decent multi tool, a patch kit, tire lever set, a small pump or CO2 set, and some spare tubes. You will want to learn how to change a flat, or at least patch it if you have the time. There are several tutorials on YouTube. Try it on your own before you start commuting. Just deflate your current tube, pull it, and put it back in.
Lights - depending on your commute time, you will want a good set of lights. I run a blinker during the day front and rear. I opt for USB charging as there are no batteries to replace, and charging is for the most part readily available. Cygolite Dash 320 up front that has a daytime blink mode that is bright enough to see in the sun, and a Cygolite HotShot Micro on the back. I also have used the Serfas Thunderbolt front and rear.
Lock - invest in a good U lock. A cable lock is just asking for your bike to be stolen. I use a Kryptonite U lock all the time and will not use anything less than this lock, like a cable lock. I would also evaluate the area where the bike will be locked up. Are there other options, possibly a more secure location?
Messenger bag - these are not for everyone. I absolutely love mine and won't use anything else. I tried using my Jansport backpack once and it was horrible. For the best messenger bag, Messenger Bags & Laptop Bags | Footwear & Apparel | Chrome Industries is the place to go. I have a Metropolis and a Citizen Night (reflective). Expensive, but a lifetime warranty, waterproof, comfortable, and so many options from bag style to design. You can also have them make you a custom bag. As for long rides with a full messenger bag, I have done them. Several 40-50 mile rides, in the summer/fall with a full messenger bag. Once you get used to it being there, you hardly notice it. I like these bags due to the side load strap that prevents the bag from shifting all over your back and sliding around. In a full sprint, the bag barely moves on my back and that is a HUGE necessity when riding. Now, for your back sweating.....it will sweat with a messenger bag on it. I rode home from work tonight and it was 27F. After my 8.5 mile ride home, my back was a bit damp where the bag goes. Again, something you get used to. Put anything on your back, especially in the summer, be it a messenger or back pack, and you will get the sweat back.
Route - you will need to find the best route and see how long it takes you to get where you are going. Not every day will be the same. Some days you will feel like you could do the Tour De France, and others will feel like your wheels are square and made out of cement. Get a good idea of how long it will actually take you to ride at a pace that you are comfortable with. Allow for detours, and potential mechanical issues like a flat, chain issue, etc. Google Maps can offer a nice overview of potential routes for you to take so utilize that if you can.
My best suggestion is that you find what works for you, and go with that. OP - check your PM's.
My commute is 8.5 miles each way on a mix of multi user paths and roads with bike lanes and a few roads without. I have a few options when it comes to my route so that I can avoid traffic if needed. I ride one of two fixed gear track bikes, or a fat bike depending on the conditions. I am able to lock my bike up where it is protected from most of the conditions and is under 24 hour surveillance. I ride just about every day to work if possible. The exception so far has been rain. I will not ride to work in the rain as there really is nowhere for me to dry out my clothes. If it is clear when I go in and supposed to rain on my way home that is fine. I use a messenger bag to carry my work clothes, dinner, grooming stuff, lock, etc. I do not run any type of permanent fenders or racks. I have an SKS X3 Xtra Dry seat post mounted "fender" that I can only use on one of the bikes since the other has an aero seat post. I do not, and will never use a pannier on any type of bike that I own. They just are not for me or my riding style.
Bike - the bike you posted is absolutely fine to commute to work on. I would highly suggest taking it out for a few rides that are at least half the distance that you will be riding on your commute to check the fit of the bike and your riding position. Find out what works for you as far as clothing as well. Not sure what your location is, but this could play a huge part in your decision to ride.
Gear - get a decent multi tool, a patch kit, tire lever set, a small pump or CO2 set, and some spare tubes. You will want to learn how to change a flat, or at least patch it if you have the time. There are several tutorials on YouTube. Try it on your own before you start commuting. Just deflate your current tube, pull it, and put it back in.
Lights - depending on your commute time, you will want a good set of lights. I run a blinker during the day front and rear. I opt for USB charging as there are no batteries to replace, and charging is for the most part readily available. Cygolite Dash 320 up front that has a daytime blink mode that is bright enough to see in the sun, and a Cygolite HotShot Micro on the back. I also have used the Serfas Thunderbolt front and rear.
Lock - invest in a good U lock. A cable lock is just asking for your bike to be stolen. I use a Kryptonite U lock all the time and will not use anything less than this lock, like a cable lock. I would also evaluate the area where the bike will be locked up. Are there other options, possibly a more secure location?
Messenger bag - these are not for everyone. I absolutely love mine and won't use anything else. I tried using my Jansport backpack once and it was horrible. For the best messenger bag, Messenger Bags & Laptop Bags | Footwear & Apparel | Chrome Industries is the place to go. I have a Metropolis and a Citizen Night (reflective). Expensive, but a lifetime warranty, waterproof, comfortable, and so many options from bag style to design. You can also have them make you a custom bag. As for long rides with a full messenger bag, I have done them. Several 40-50 mile rides, in the summer/fall with a full messenger bag. Once you get used to it being there, you hardly notice it. I like these bags due to the side load strap that prevents the bag from shifting all over your back and sliding around. In a full sprint, the bag barely moves on my back and that is a HUGE necessity when riding. Now, for your back sweating.....it will sweat with a messenger bag on it. I rode home from work tonight and it was 27F. After my 8.5 mile ride home, my back was a bit damp where the bag goes. Again, something you get used to. Put anything on your back, especially in the summer, be it a messenger or back pack, and you will get the sweat back.
Route - you will need to find the best route and see how long it takes you to get where you are going. Not every day will be the same. Some days you will feel like you could do the Tour De France, and others will feel like your wheels are square and made out of cement. Get a good idea of how long it will actually take you to ride at a pace that you are comfortable with. Allow for detours, and potential mechanical issues like a flat, chain issue, etc. Google Maps can offer a nice overview of potential routes for you to take so utilize that if you can.
My best suggestion is that you find what works for you, and go with that. OP - check your PM's.
#33
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I'd only ride that for lockup commuting at a school if they have those bike boxes there. Bike rack rash will eat up that beautiful bike and theft is a very grave concern at most schools.
Looks like a 2001 Trek 2300, pretty nice ride! I'd be tempted to look for a cheaper beater and save that for weekend pleasure rides.
Looks like a 2001 Trek 2300, pretty nice ride! I'd be tempted to look for a cheaper beater and save that for weekend pleasure rides.
#34
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First, you can commute on anything. But like life itself, everything's a compromise. A racing bike will get you there, but it won't carry your stuff for you and it won't keep you clean in the wet. I use mine on days when everything I need to carry fits in pockets and the roads are clean and dry. Those are some of my most enjoyable commutes.
If you're going to use it every day in all weather (What's your location anyway?) then be prepared to become tired of being the pack mule, and tired of being muddy on rainy and snowy days. That's when a different bike--one that will take a luggage rack and fenders really shines.
IMHO, your current bike is fine to start out, and for nice weather. If that's all you need, then you don't need to change a thing. If you start thinking about foul weather or moving the load from your back to the bike, it's time to start thinking about a second bike.
Second, learn to how to fix a flat and get the required tools and stuff to do it on the road before you start commuting. You're halfway there with the tool bag and frame pump. You'll need at minimum, tire levers and a couple of spare tubes. Add a patch kit for just in case. Nothing says "Loser" quite like arriving late because you had a flat on your bicycle. So prepare, learn, and practice now.
Third, get a good U-lock and keep using your cable lock to supplement it. College campuses are prime hunting grounds for bike thieves. Use both kinds of locks every time you lock up.
Fourth, find a different bike shop--one that takes you seriously.
Finally, have fun.
If you're going to use it every day in all weather (What's your location anyway?) then be prepared to become tired of being the pack mule, and tired of being muddy on rainy and snowy days. That's when a different bike--one that will take a luggage rack and fenders really shines.
IMHO, your current bike is fine to start out, and for nice weather. If that's all you need, then you don't need to change a thing. If you start thinking about foul weather or moving the load from your back to the bike, it's time to start thinking about a second bike.
Second, learn to how to fix a flat and get the required tools and stuff to do it on the road before you start commuting. You're halfway there with the tool bag and frame pump. You'll need at minimum, tire levers and a couple of spare tubes. Add a patch kit for just in case. Nothing says "Loser" quite like arriving late because you had a flat on your bicycle. So prepare, learn, and practice now.
Third, get a good U-lock and keep using your cable lock to supplement it. College campuses are prime hunting grounds for bike thieves. Use both kinds of locks every time you lock up.
Fourth, find a different bike shop--one that takes you seriously.
Finally, have fun.
#35
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I commute and rotate between 2 bikes, a be-fendered mountain-bike based commuter with a back rack and folding baskets, and a road bike sans fenders or rack. When I had just a more upright commuter I found a backpack unbearable. But on my road bike with me leaning forward, I find that a backpack works well with the straps left long so it rests on the small of my back and stands kind of upright so there is plenty of air circulating on my back. I'm on my fourth backpack of various design and this has worked for me. Also in traffic I like to ride up higher on the crossbar so I had secondary handbrakes put on up there.
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Looks like a nice bike. My concerns are the same as what others have expressed: theft and backpacks. I wear a backpack sometimes on a 4 mile commute and I cannot stand it.
#37
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If you have any concerns about theft I would not commute on that bike. But do get a bike that looks like a beater, setup nice with fenders and a rack. Using a backpack is ok for an hour or so, lot's of folks do just that, and I did last season - just keep the weight minimal. Also, I let my backpack ride very low on my hips, not high on my back. Made a huge difference when bent over the bars.
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FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
#38
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For a 30 mile round trip commute, I think that bike is preferable to most dedicated commuter bikes, which tend to be more upright and slow. It will serve you well.
Regarding various concerns raised, see below.
Theft: the cable lock you have is inadequate. However, the niceness of your bicycle does not make it a particular target. Bicycle thieves are usually pretty indiscriminate. Anything that's not adequately secured is vulnerable. Hold onto your cable lock, and supplement it with a good U-Lock or equivalent. I use an Abus Bordo these days - it's a flexible lock made up of several jointed segments of strong steel bar. It's more flexible than a U-Lock and at least as secure. But it is also very expensive at $100+. You will use the U-Lock (or Bordo, or heavy chain lock) to secure the rear wheel of the bike to the post you are locking to, and use your cable lock to secure the front wheel to the frame. If you are able to bring your bike inside and keep it in a safe location, that's the best possible solution. But that might not be an option.
Fenders: there are a number of different clip-on fenders available that will easily attach to your bike. SKS Race Blades and Planet Bike Speed-EZ fenders are decent options. Full fenders do give better protection from spray, but I find clip-on fenders are good enough. The main problem weakness of clip-ons is that no fender extending past the front of the fork crown means you can get sprayed in your face or chest as water coming off the top of the wheel gets blown backwards. This is annoying, but when it's raining that much you really need a rain jacket anyway.
Bag: there's a lot of love in these parts for the rack and panniers approach, but that's not universal. After a decade of commuting by bike, I've found that I mostly prefer carrying the weight on my own back. Panniers are just too annoying to deal with for me. The large majority of bike commuters - the ones who don't post to Bike Forums but just get on a bike and ride to work - wear backpacks. The biggest problem with wearing some kind of bag or pack is that you will probably end up with a sweaty back and shoulders during the warmer months. Probably the only real solution to this, if being sweaty for a while is either too uncomfortable or socially unacceptable at your destination, is to change shirts when you arrive. A messenger bag is a decent option, but I happen to think a backpack designed for riding is better - more comfortable and more stable. These days there are a lot of cycling backpacks available. I'm using a Timbuk2 Swig and like it a lot.
Basically, I would say to give it a shot and good luck!
Regarding various concerns raised, see below.
Theft: the cable lock you have is inadequate. However, the niceness of your bicycle does not make it a particular target. Bicycle thieves are usually pretty indiscriminate. Anything that's not adequately secured is vulnerable. Hold onto your cable lock, and supplement it with a good U-Lock or equivalent. I use an Abus Bordo these days - it's a flexible lock made up of several jointed segments of strong steel bar. It's more flexible than a U-Lock and at least as secure. But it is also very expensive at $100+. You will use the U-Lock (or Bordo, or heavy chain lock) to secure the rear wheel of the bike to the post you are locking to, and use your cable lock to secure the front wheel to the frame. If you are able to bring your bike inside and keep it in a safe location, that's the best possible solution. But that might not be an option.
Fenders: there are a number of different clip-on fenders available that will easily attach to your bike. SKS Race Blades and Planet Bike Speed-EZ fenders are decent options. Full fenders do give better protection from spray, but I find clip-on fenders are good enough. The main problem weakness of clip-ons is that no fender extending past the front of the fork crown means you can get sprayed in your face or chest as water coming off the top of the wheel gets blown backwards. This is annoying, but when it's raining that much you really need a rain jacket anyway.
Bag: there's a lot of love in these parts for the rack and panniers approach, but that's not universal. After a decade of commuting by bike, I've found that I mostly prefer carrying the weight on my own back. Panniers are just too annoying to deal with for me. The large majority of bike commuters - the ones who don't post to Bike Forums but just get on a bike and ride to work - wear backpacks. The biggest problem with wearing some kind of bag or pack is that you will probably end up with a sweaty back and shoulders during the warmer months. Probably the only real solution to this, if being sweaty for a while is either too uncomfortable or socially unacceptable at your destination, is to change shirts when you arrive. A messenger bag is a decent option, but I happen to think a backpack designed for riding is better - more comfortable and more stable. These days there are a lot of cycling backpacks available. I'm using a Timbuk2 Swig and like it a lot.
Basically, I would say to give it a shot and good luck!
#39
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Is it time for beater bike recommendations yet?
Most cities will have nice old road bikes for cheap. This one's been up for $200 for a couple of days, might be able to snag it for 150. That's the kind of action I'd go for.
Most cities will have nice old road bikes for cheap. This one's been up for $200 for a couple of days, might be able to snag it for 150. That's the kind of action I'd go for.
#40
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So I am very new to cycling in general but about 2 years ago I bought a road bike so I could get into shape, but I have not been actively biking. I have had probably 15 rides of around 10-40 miles each.
Anyways, I would like to start using this bike to cycle to school. I will be riding with a messenger bag and that is probably it.
I don't know what tools I need to buy or anything. But I plan to learn how to do this all before Jan 17th when college starts back up.
I am curious since this bike is meant for racing if it can also be used for commuting? Will having a pack with the extremely aggressive handle bar position be a problem? The commute to school will be around 15 miles each way.
I will atatch a photo but whenever I go to a bike shop to buy something and get advice they assume I cycle a lot due to the nice bike but when I ask questions like, how do you change a tire they don't seem to be very helpful thinking I am joking...but I am not.
Here is a picture of the bike. How can I start making this into a commuter?
Anyways, I would like to start using this bike to cycle to school. I will be riding with a messenger bag and that is probably it.
I don't know what tools I need to buy or anything. But I plan to learn how to do this all before Jan 17th when college starts back up.
I am curious since this bike is meant for racing if it can also be used for commuting? Will having a pack with the extremely aggressive handle bar position be a problem? The commute to school will be around 15 miles each way.
I will atatch a photo but whenever I go to a bike shop to buy something and get advice they assume I cycle a lot due to the nice bike but when I ask questions like, how do you change a tire they don't seem to be very helpful thinking I am joking...but I am not.
Here is a picture of the bike. How can I start making this into a commuter?
I also have a small frame mini-pump.
You will need to get a better lock and a good locking strategy, that is a nice bike you have and you wouldn't;t want to see that go, that would be a big target. I am lucky I can store mine in my office.
Last edited by GeneO; 12-21-14 at 11:27 PM.
#41
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If your bike doesn't have fender mounts like these:
Then you can still mount specialized full fenders like PDW and Crud that will work. If you want to install a rack,there are ones like this that mount from the brake caliper to the axle.
Then you can still mount specialized full fenders like PDW and Crud that will work. If you want to install a rack,there are ones like this that mount from the brake caliper to the axle.
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#45
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Regarding various concerns raised, see below.
Theft: the cable lock you have is inadequate. However, the niceness of your bicycle does not make it a particular target. Bicycle thieves are usually pretty indiscriminate. Anything that's not adequately secured is vulnerable. Hold onto your cable lock, and supplement it with a good U-Lock or equivalent. I use an Abus Bordo these days - it's a flexible lock made up of several jointed segments of strong steel bar. It's more flexible than a U-Lock and at least as secure. But it is also very expensive at $100+. You will use the U-Lock (or Bordo, or heavy chain lock) to secure the rear wheel of the bike to the post you are locking to, and use your cable lock to secure the front wheel to the frame. If you are able to bring your bike inside and keep it in a safe location, that's the best possible solution. But that might not be an option.
.........
Basically, I would say to give it a shot and good luck!
Theft: the cable lock you have is inadequate. However, the niceness of your bicycle does not make it a particular target. Bicycle thieves are usually pretty indiscriminate. Anything that's not adequately secured is vulnerable. Hold onto your cable lock, and supplement it with a good U-Lock or equivalent. I use an Abus Bordo these days - it's a flexible lock made up of several jointed segments of strong steel bar. It's more flexible than a U-Lock and at least as secure. But it is also very expensive at $100+. You will use the U-Lock (or Bordo, or heavy chain lock) to secure the rear wheel of the bike to the post you are locking to, and use your cable lock to secure the front wheel to the frame. If you are able to bring your bike inside and keep it in a safe location, that's the best possible solution. But that might not be an option.
.........
Basically, I would say to give it a shot and good luck!
#46
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Should work just fine. I have bike commuted dozens of times on a road bike like that, with a messenger bag. Even done it for a 30 mile morning training ride. As long as you have a comfortable bag. I'm sure there are ones out there that aren't the best. I can hold well over 10 lbs of stuff, even on a long ride like that. You'll be fine.
#47
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The key to the messenger bag being comfortable is packing it correctly and distributing the weight evenly. The bag I use has a specific place for a U lock that is places the lock in an easy to access area that is not against the body so it is not banging your back up. Once you get the logistics of the bag and your stuff down, the commute, the security of your bike, and riding in or with traffic, the commute should be pretty fun.
#48
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I have a 30 mile round trip commute and I have used both a rack with a trunk bag as well as a backpack to carry my necessities. When I was using the hybrid with an upright, laid-back ride I preferred the rack to the backpack. Now that I'm using a cyclocross bike with drops on it to commute, I prefer the backpack. On the hybrid, the front to rear balance of the bike didn't make much of a difference so, having the rack on the back didn't throw me off too much. There was also a lot more weight in the front end of the hybrid due to it having an aluminum, rather than a carbon fork. With the rack and trunk on the cyclocross, the bike felt strange in turns with a heavy back end and a very, very light front end.
I'm using a Camelbak H.A.W.G. NV pack and it's very comfortable. I do not use the reservoir (3L) on my commute. I haven't had a chance to do a longer ride than my commute, so I'm not sure how comfortable the pack will be on say a 50 or 100 mile ride, but for the commute it's great.
I'm using a Camelbak H.A.W.G. NV pack and it's very comfortable. I do not use the reservoir (3L) on my commute. I haven't had a chance to do a longer ride than my commute, so I'm not sure how comfortable the pack will be on say a 50 or 100 mile ride, but for the commute it's great.
#49
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SKS Raceblade Long Fender Set - 23mm
460 gms!
I prefer these even though my two commuters have fender mounts because traditional fenders are ridiculously heavy.