bikingtotown

Planning on getting new bike before spring and retiring my old worn trek fx 7.1 into secondary bike for not so nice weather. Any input would help as I've never spent much on a new bike. I plan on having around 1000 $ budget as this bike will be my mode of transportation 5-8 miles to town on daily basis. I will be riding on all paved bike paths with some bumps at intersections and driveways. I was planning on the getting trek fx 7.4 because I thought maybe the carbon fork will help dampen some of bumps along the bike path... not sure if that is right though. Recommendations thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
- MAX

chephy

What are you hoping to get out of the upgrade, other than smoother travel over bumps? Or are you just looking for a new toy? (Not that that's not a valid reason! )

If you are looking for essentially the same type of bike you have now, just a bit nicer - you know, smoother, lighter etc. - moving up the model line of your current bike sounds like a smart thing. The Trek FX series has a solid reputation; they're good commuters/all-arounders. So if you're happy with your current bike, you should be happy with the upgrade. However, if you're looking to significantly change some aspects of your ride (make it a lot faster or a lot cushier), you might need to switch things up and look at different styles of bikes.

In my experience, a carbon fork will help quiet down the road "buzz" (the micro jolts) but won't help much with major bumps (the macro jolts). How bad are the bumps and how frequent? If your main objective is dampening them, you might want to look into wider tires and suspension forks. Of course, that'll slow you down on the smoother sections of the ride. From your description it doesn't sound like it's worth it since the bumps are relatively infrequent.

bikingtotown

Yes I was very happy with the trek 7.1 it introduced me to the faster smooth ride with less effort. Ive ridden it almost daily for five years when there's not snow on bike paths.. so I def feel I got my money's worth out of it. thinking of getting some knobby tires so I can take it over shallow snow and trails. There's not enough bumps to sacrifice speed. For new bike if I can find something faster with no less or possibly slightly more bump forgivness that would be ideal. Maybe I could see if I could get fatter tires my old fx had 35mmthe New 7.4 would have 32mm wonder if that would make the bumps that much worse.

downwinded

When I bought my bike the LBS gave me full MSRP for the tires that came on the bike in trade for Marathon Supremes in 35mm. They are folding bead and when run at 60psi frt and 65/70 rear should provide a fairly smooth ride for the commute you described. I like the carbon fork and the handlebars on the 7.4 help as well. None of this is a replacement for a suspension fork however, if you have liked the 7.1, the 7.4 is a very nice upgrade.

mconlonx

If you do go with the 7.4, see what the shop says about max tire size and then ask if they will swap tires out for you as part of the deal. I think you'll want at least 35, like your 7.1, but if that was too harsh, try the next tire size up, like a 37-38.

While you are at a shop test riding an FX 7.4, you might also check out the Dual Sport DS series, either an 8.4 or 8.5. Front suspension w/ lockout, wider, semi-knobby 38mm tires. That would mean more overall bump compliance, shallow snow and trail worthiness, but the penalty is weight which might impact "faster smooth ride with less effort." Although they weight difference between a 7.1 and even the 8.4 could very well be negligible. Ride your bike to the shop, then test ride the FX 7.4 and DS 8.4 back to back, see which one more suits your needs.

PS: I work in a Trek shop, so these are the models I know. Most brands have similar bikes at similar prices. I don't mean to push Trek exclusively, nor shill the brand...

bikingtotown

I went to all the different bike shops around town and found each one carrys their own different brand. Trek, giant, and De sol(haro). Definitely set on getting ridged frame hybrid. So im thinkin it's either 7.4 fx 750$, giant escape 1 650$, or de sol campus 202 for just 400$. of course they all think I should get their bike so im pretty torn. I really don't mind spending extra for quality that will perform well and last. I have list of specs if anyone has time to look and tell me what seems like the best buy.
TREX FX 7.4
Colors
Paramount Grey/Volt Green
Crystal White
Frameset


Frame
FX Alpha Gold Aluminum, DuoTrap S compatible, rack and fender mounts
Fork
Bontrager Nebula, carbon
Sizes
15, 17.5, 20, 22.5, 25"
Wheels


Front Hub
Formula FM21 alloy
Rear Hub
Shimano RM30 alloy
Rims
Bontrager TLR, 32-hole
Tires
Bontrager AW1 Hard-Case Lite, 700x32c
Drivetrain


Shifters
Shimano Acera M390, speed
Front derailleur
Shimano Acera
Rear derailleur
Shimano Deore
Crank
Shimano Acera M391, 48/36/26 w/chainguard
Cassette
Shimano HG20 11-32, 9 speed
Pedals
Nylon body w/alloy cage
Chain
KMC X9
Components


Saddle
Bontrager H1
Seatpost
Bontrager Nebula, 27.2mm
Handlebar
Bontrager Satellite Plus IsoZone, 31.8mm, 15mm rise
Stem
Bontrager Elite Blendr, w/computer & light mounts, 31.8mm, 7 degree
Headset
VP, semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
Brakeset
Tektro alloy linear-pull
Accessories


Grips
Bontrager Satellite IsoZone Plus, lock-on, ergonomic




GIANT ESCAPE 1
FRAME
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Colors Satin Charcoal/Blue, Satin White/Red
Frame ALUXX-grade aluminum
Fork Composite-grade composite, alloy steerer
Shock N/A
COMPONENTS
Handlebar Giant Sport, low rise, 31.8mm
Stem Giant Sport
Seatpost Giant Sport, 27.2mm
Saddle Giant Connect, Upright
Pedals Alloy w/resin cage
DRIVETRAIN
Shifters Shimano Alivio
Front Derailleur Shimano Acera
Rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio
Brakes Tektro, linear pull
Brake Levers Tektro
Giant Sport, 27.2mm
Saddle Giant Connect, Upright
Pedals Alloy w/resin cage
DRIVETRAIN
Shifters Shimano Alivio
Front Derailleur Shimano Acera
Rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio
Brakes Tektro, linear pull
Brake Levers Tektro
Cassette Shimano HG30 11x34, 9-speed
Chain KMC X9
Crankset Shimano Acera, 26/36/48
Bottom Bracket Shimano sealed
WHEELS
Rims Giant Alloy, double wall
Hubs Giant, 32h
Spokes Stainless Steel, 14g
Tires Giant S-X2, puncture protection,


DE SOL CAMPUS 202 400$
Frameset
Frame Campus 700c 6061 T6 oversized aluminum frame
Fork Rigid cromoly
Drivetrain
Cranks SR Suntour XCC 208, 48/38/28
Pedals Nylon City
Front Derailleur Shimano Altus
Rear Derailleur Shimano Altus
Derailleur Shifter Shimano EF-51, 8 speed
Freewheel/Cassette Shimano HG-31, 8 speed cassette, 11-32
Wheels
Tires Kenda Komfort Kruiser, 26 x 2.125"
Wheels/Rims Weinmann Zac 19 32h rims, alloy cassette hubs, stainless steel spokes
Hubs
Braking System
Brakes Alloy direct pull w/ linear spring
Brake Levers Shimano EF-51
Other Components
Grips/Tape City Dual density
Handle Bar Alloy riser bar, 25mm rise, 680mm width, 31.8mm clamp
Stem Forged alloy, 10 degree rise
Saddle Del Sol City
Seat Post Alloy micro adjust, 27.2 x 350mm

spare_wheel

The ~$1000 7.5 FX has a 10 speed road drive train that would make for a much better upgrade over the cobbled-together drive train on the 7.4 FX.

chephy

Looking at the specs, I wouldn't call De Sol Campus that much of an upgrade, exactly...

fietsbob

what is your favorite shop , what brands do they sell?

want a suspension fork thats Trek DS, not ? Fx , drop bars Cross Rip.

other brands likely break down To similar niches sus forks need a frame thats made around that travel .

Pricier bikes get more expensive parts..

bikingtotown

Do u think the cross rip would be a lot worse on bumps then a hybrid? That bike is looking really appealing. Yeah Id like to buy from the guy that is selling the de sol...I don't think that bike is the one I want but if I'm ever looking for mountain bike Ill def get it there. I've been going there for fixes and got some bikes there when I was younger. Such a good guy and place. he has barn w cats and collects tons of old antique bikes as well as sells new ones. Has some road bikes that look amazing said they're from Italy. He has fixed up my bike more then once and usually refuses to take my money. So I should prolly check see what other kind of hybrid he could get before I go get a trek from the guys that usually arnt very helpful and charge a lot to have work done..

jaxgtr

I have the CrossRip and it is a smooth riding bike. I also put a carbon post I had on it and it removes a lot of the aluminum road buzz.

bikingtotown

Nice bike it'd be perfect bike if I had balls to ride on road around here but there some sketchy ppl and sharp corners. I prolly have to get hybrid to deal with bike path bumps... I'm def sticking to a rigid fork though.

downwinded

The Crossrip will do the bike path bumps and rough pavement cracks/holes with no problem at all. Get some good folding bead tires and run them at a reduced air pressure. That is your suspension and it works. Really well.

mconlonx

The 7.5 is more like $1100 (over budget) -- with money saved buying the 7.4 (or other brand alternates listed), bike could be accessorized nicely for commuting.

The drivetrain is no more cobbled together than the one on the 7.4 -- for me it would come down to double crank vs. triple, and for OP intended use, triple would get the nod.

Tires are next size skinnier on the 7.5, which seems like the wrong direction considering the OP.

bikingtotown

Yeah if I'm gunna go that pricey for the 7.5 I would just go for the cross rip saw one in person at shop today looks really bad ass crossrip elite $ 1150 54 cm. not sure if it my size as I've never had road style bike before... They don't even have 7.4 in shop yet but they said there should be one soon..yeah can't forget acessories and prolly a tire change will cost a bit. Thinking I prolly have to go with 7.4 :/

bikingtotown

What are folding bead tires? Know any good models 32mm or up

jaxgtr

CrossRip is long in the top tube...go one size down. I normally ride a 54, but went with a 52 when I checked the frame demensions. Folding tires don't have a hard wire around the edge of the tire. a lot of tires come in a folding variety.

bikingtotown

So is the crossrip and that style bike comfortable to ride on a daily basis compared to the rigid hybrid? It seems it would be much more efficient riding but kinda wondering if it's more taxing day after day.

acidfast7

It depends on what you want. One of my colleagues upgraded from to CrossRip from a hybrid (crushed by a car in an accident) and regrets the decision. Now, he rides it everyday and complains that he wishes he'd bought a hybrid again (this is after 3 years). He actively wishes it would be crushed (again) or stolen.

He has a bike computer that's make it 50k miles of commuting, so he knows what he likes and had a moment of weakness when he really needed a bike. He felt like he was talked into it and went for the new shiny advnaced bike rather than what he wanted.

He's also older (58 or so) and actively runs. In his opinion, there's not a huge advantage for short daily commuting (under 20 miles total) or short tours (under 500 km).

Also, the position over the bars isn't so good in traffic (serious issue in the UK with it's clogged narrow streets.)

His words, not mine.

bikingtotown

Ok thanks yes good thought prolly less Turning radius w cross rip I like cars to clearly know which way I'm intending to go. I find myself swerving in front and behind waiting cars a lot..

spare_wheel

The 7.5 has an integrated tiagra 10 speed drive train (basically a 5700-level gruppo). The crossrip elite has a 9-speed drive train that is definite step down and the mix of acera, deore, and octalink crank on the 7.4 is clunky and low quality, imo.

spare_wheel

If you get a bike that fits both drop and flat bars can be comfortable over short/medium distances. Drops are definitely better for long distances or when riding into wind. You can run interruptor/cross levers if you want to use a drop as a commuter.

mconlonx

The only thing Tiagra on the 7.5 is the shifters (and flat bar at that) and crank -- the rest of the drivetrain is as bodged together as the Acera... meaning not junk, integrated Shimano drivetrain, etc. Not "clunky and low quality" specially comparing to components on the 7.1... I would also take Octalink over outboard bearing for nearly any situation where longevity is concerned. Also, Tiagra is not 5700 level, more like 4x00 level.

spare_wheel

I'm a bit of shimano wonk...and read their spec sheets religiously since it's often possible to buy "shimano spares" and build an expensive part for much less than list. For example, I recently bought ultegra R770 shifting mech spares for $50 and finished off the shifters with free deore parts from my coop ($50 bucks for the best 10 speed shifters shimano has ever made).

From the Trek web site:
Front derailleur Shimano Tiagra

Rear derailleur Shimano RD-R350-10 SS (black 10-speed rd-4600 -- see parts list in tech specs)
https://si.shimano.com/php/download.p...50-10-3624.pdf

[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="align: left"]Y5Y998010 B-Axle Assembly A[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: left"]2 Y556250D0 B-Tension Adjust Bolt A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]3 Y5Y498030 Stroke Adjust Screws (M4 x 13) & Plate A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]4 Y5XG98040 Cable Adjusting Bolt unit A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]5 Y5Y498020 Cable Fixing Plate & Bolt A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]6 Y5XG16100 Pulley Bolt A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]7 Y5TT98020 Tension & Guide Pulley Unit A[/TD]
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[TD="align: left"]8 Y5Y408000[/TD]
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[/TABLE]

https://www.shimano.com.au/media/tech...9830775436.pdf
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="align: left"]Y5XN98010 B-Axle Assembly B[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]2 Y556250B0 B-Tension Adjusting Screw (M4 x 13.5) B[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]3 Y5XH98020 Cable Fixing Bolt (M5 x 8.5) & Plate A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]4 Y5XH98030 Cable Adjusting Bolt Unit A A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]5 Y5X998020 Stroke Adjusting Screws (M4 x 11.5) & Plate A B[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]6 Y5UC14000 P-Seal Ring A A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]Y5VG14000 P-Tension Spring (SS-type) A[/TD]
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[TD="align: left"]Y5VG15000 P-Tension Spring (GS-type) A[/TD]
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[TD="align: left"]Y5XN98020 Outer Plate Assembly (SS-type)[/TD]
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[TD="align: left"]Y5XN98030 Outer Plate Assembly (GS-type)[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]* 9 Y5XH98120 Tension & Guide Pulley Set A[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]Y5XN08000 Inner Plate (SS-type)[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: left"]Y5XN09000 Inner Plate (GS-type)[/TD]
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[TD="align: left"]11 Y5V598140 Pulley

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[/TABLE]

I'm not concerned about outboard BB longevity (they last a long time for me). I just don't like the manufacturing quality and rigidity of every octalink crank I've tried.

RD-4600-SS/RD-350-10 are essentially identical to RD-5700-SS. Just a very slight modification of the inner/outerplate (but still interchangeable with a little effort).

bikingtotown

I'm not sure about any of the parts or if they're good or bad. but longevity without tune ups and repair is one of the most important to me and I would def upgrade to 7. 5 if it meant getting a few extra years out of it.. my 7.1 was tuned up once and short time later It was all loose and clicking again plus tires look pretty faded so figured it was time for a new improved one.