Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Tubular Blues

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    86
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Tubular Blues

    I'm seriously thinking of going back to clinchers. I just rolled a tubular in a race this weekend - first lap. I had glued them with 4 coats to the rim, 3 to the tire and also sealed them but it still failed after a few races.

    This is not the first tubular incident I had. When I think about all the trouble they were to glue on, and the expense, combined with the fact that I don't feel confident on them - should I bag them?

    I have a good pair of Michelin Mud 2's and Maxxis Raze - which I practice with - but at my weight of 195 - I would need to run these at a fairly high pressure (around 50 psi) which has me bouncing all around the course.

    Damn - those Tubies run so nice but I'm asking myself, is it worth it?

    Any of you feel the same, or have some good clinchers to recommend?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    509
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Maybe try the glue and tape method as shown here https://cyclocrossworld.3dcartstores...orne_b_43.html

    Everytime I've tried to remove a tire glued this way it has been considerably harder than a tire held on with just glue.

  3. #3
    bf is my facebook. ljrichar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    1,148
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well, I've had 2 pinch flats in races so there's that. Some people are going tubeless which may be the best of both worlds.

  4. #4
    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Sacramento CA
    My Bikes
    Too Many
    Posts
    5,789
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm not convinced that tubeless are that good for cross. For the low pressures that we run there is more of a chance for burps.

    Back to your tubies; have you tried pressing them on with a broom handle? When the glue is fresh, deflate the tire and roll it on a broom handle to really get that inner section to seat. You can also have a shop do the gluing and see if you can watch.
    Last edited by Cynikal; 10-26-11 at 08:59 AM.
    I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC

  5. #5
    not a role model JeffS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    4,645
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Sounds like too much glue to me.

  6. #6
    Tiocfáidh ár Lá jfmckenna's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    The edge of b#
    My Bikes
    A whole bunch-a bikes.
    Posts
    5,414
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    it's not enough glue IMO. You need to glue the sh1t out of cross tubs. When you mount them if you don't have any glue squeeze out then it's not enough. I weigh 205 and never roll tubs. I did at first like your self but don't get frustrated and try it again. Also don't do the tape method it's not all that great. Just use glue and lots of it. Broom handle works but you can also just mount it on your bike and roll back and forth a bit. When done mounting pump them up to the pressures you plan on running but on the high side, maybe 35lbs. The tires I have mounted on now have been mounted for two years and I will literally have to pry them off with a screwdriver or some such lever and it usually ruins the base tape doing it.

    Also IDK what glue you are using but I use Mastik One and think it's the best out there.
    If you don't talk to your cat about catnip, who will? =^.^=

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,031
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    After you rolled your tires, did you look at them to see where the voids were?

    That's the secret, gluing them without voids. I agree with McKenna, you want glue squeezing out the sides. Stu Thorne doesn't use broom, just pumps them up high (i.e. 60-80psi) then rolls them with weight on them. Makes sense to me.

    Stretching the tires AFTER the first two coats of glue have dried really helps mounting them. Also, Zank's other trick of masking the brake surface with electrical tape really saves time. Belgie tape is optional IMO and may even make it more difficult to mount.

    Zank's method:
    http://www.embrocationmagazine.com/o...ng-cx-tubulars

    Once you get this stuff squared away, it's really not that much of a hassle. You do the first couple of coats on the tires, let 'em dry in a warm dry room overnight, stretch them on clean rims for an hour or so the next day, then get a quick couple of coats on the rims. Final coat on tires and rims then fire them on. Done.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,031
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    P.S. Mastik. Yes, there is a difference.
    http://www2.bsn.com/cycling/articles/cements.html

  9. #9
    Senior Member GrayJay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    EagleRiver AK
    Posts
    1,230
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by flargle View Post
    P.S. Mastik. Yes, there is a difference.
    http://www2.bsn.com/cycling/articles/cements.html
    Another good paper supporting that Vittoria mastik one is the strongest tubular adhesive available.
    http://engr.ku.edu/~kuktl/bicycle/Cusa1.pdf

    Another one of his papers found that tubular bond with carbon rims was only 75% as strong as aluminum rims. Always seems like I see more roll-offs with carbon rims.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •