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Old 10-23-11, 05:42 PM   #1
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Tubular Blues

I'm seriously thinking of going back to clinchers. I just rolled a tubular in a race this weekend - first lap. I had glued them with 4 coats to the rim, 3 to the tire and also sealed them but it still failed after a few races.

This is not the first tubular incident I had. When I think about all the trouble they were to glue on, and the expense, combined with the fact that I don't feel confident on them - should I bag them?

I have a good pair of Michelin Mud 2's and Maxxis Raze - which I practice with - but at my weight of 195 - I would need to run these at a fairly high pressure (around 50 psi) which has me bouncing all around the course.

Damn - those Tubies run so nice but I'm asking myself, is it worth it?

Any of you feel the same, or have some good clinchers to recommend?
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Old 10-23-11, 06:12 PM   #2
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Maybe try the glue and tape method as shown here https://cyclocrossworld.3dcartstores...orne_b_43.html

Everytime I've tried to remove a tire glued this way it has been considerably harder than a tire held on with just glue.
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Old 10-25-11, 07:26 AM   #3
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Well, I've had 2 pinch flats in races so there's that. Some people are going tubeless which may be the best of both worlds.
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Old 10-25-11, 08:08 AM   #4
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I'm not convinced that tubeless are that good for cross. For the low pressures that we run there is more of a chance for burps.

Back to your tubies; have you tried pressing them on with a broom handle? When the glue is fresh, deflate the tire and roll it on a broom handle to really get that inner section to seat. You can also have a shop do the gluing and see if you can watch.

Last edited by Cynikal; 10-26-11 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 10-25-11, 09:23 PM   #5
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Sounds like too much glue to me.
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Old 10-28-11, 09:06 AM   #6
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it's not enough glue IMO. You need to glue the sh1t out of cross tubs. When you mount them if you don't have any glue squeeze out then it's not enough. I weigh 205 and never roll tubs. I did at first like your self but don't get frustrated and try it again. Also don't do the tape method it's not all that great. Just use glue and lots of it. Broom handle works but you can also just mount it on your bike and roll back and forth a bit. When done mounting pump them up to the pressures you plan on running but on the high side, maybe 35lbs. The tires I have mounted on now have been mounted for two years and I will literally have to pry them off with a screwdriver or some such lever and it usually ruins the base tape doing it.

Also IDK what glue you are using but I use Mastik One and think it's the best out there.
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Old 10-29-11, 08:19 AM   #7
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After you rolled your tires, did you look at them to see where the voids were?

That's the secret, gluing them without voids. I agree with McKenna, you want glue squeezing out the sides. Stu Thorne doesn't use broom, just pumps them up high (i.e. 60-80psi) then rolls them with weight on them. Makes sense to me.

Stretching the tires AFTER the first two coats of glue have dried really helps mounting them. Also, Zank's other trick of masking the brake surface with electrical tape really saves time. Belgie tape is optional IMO and may even make it more difficult to mount.

Zank's method:

Once you get this stuff squared away, it's really not that much of a hassle. You do the first couple of coats on the tires, let 'em dry in a warm dry room overnight, stretch them on clean rims for an hour or so the next day, then get a quick couple of coats on the rims. Final coat on tires and rims then fire them on. Done.
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Old 10-29-11, 08:21 AM   #8
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P.S. Mastik. Yes, there is a difference.
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Old 10-31-11, 01:55 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by flargle View Post
P.S. Mastik. Yes, there is a difference.
Another good paper supporting that Vittoria mastik one is the strongest tubular adhesive available.

Another one of his papers found that tubular bond with carbon rims was only 75% as strong as aluminum rims. Always seems like I see more roll-offs with carbon rims.
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