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Old 04-12-15, 10:50 AM
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Sorry if I led you astray on the rim manufacturer; I've just never seen a rim without something stamped as to manufacturer. IMO, keep the wheel centered in the frame; this should provide maximum tire size since you need clearance on both sides. Going to ES for advice was a good idea; those guys know tires. I've been able to use "normal" bike tires since my first build only goes 20 mph (faster ones in progress). Look at Chain Reaction Cycles for good prices; for instance 20" X 1.75 Schwalbe Marathon Plus (too small, I know) are only $32.
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Old 04-12-15, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 2old
Sorry if I led you astray on the rim manufacturer; I've just never seen a rim without something stamped as to manufacturer. IMO, keep the wheel centered in the frame; this should provide maximum tire size since you need clearance on both sides. Going to ES for advice was a good idea; those guys know tires. I've been able to use "normal" bike tires since my first build only goes 20 mph (faster ones in progress). Look at Chain Reaction Cycles for good prices; for instance 20" X 1.75 Schwalbe Marathon Plus (too small, I know) are only $32.
I'm confused by your comment. Are you suggesting that I get the Marathon Plus? I'm still trying to figure out if installing the Big Ben tires is doable. They seem to be the best for my needs (nice cushion, decent off-road performance and good for 50kmph).

BTW, the Marathon Plus are less than 26 USD on bike24.com, but shipping is 20 euro compared to 10 usd on CRC (it's door-to-door) shipping through DHL with bike24, though, plus CRC don't have Big Ben tires for 20 inch wheels.

edit: the sticker on the outside of the rim actually says 20 x 1.5 ALLIAGE (written in tiny letters). Nothing on them on the web. Must be generic rims. I'm pretty sure the manufacturer of the bike bought the wheel pre-built, as is usually the case with chinese hub motors. Sometimes the rims have double-walls, too, for extra strength because of the weight of the motor.

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Old 04-12-15, 11:09 AM
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BTW, I should go to the bike shop where I bought the bike and have them center the wheels anyway, before I install the new tires. That should completely solve the potential spokes problem, right?
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Old 04-12-15, 11:48 AM
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Wasn't suggesting you use the 20" X 1.75 tires, just showing what I thought were good prices. I always "need" extra things, so make my orders to CRC = $100 for free shipping (to the USA; don't know where you reside). Use the ES people for tires; i haven't investigated this consideration yet since haven't needed it. Good luck (and yes go to the bike shop).
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Old 04-12-15, 12:07 PM
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Guess you're out of luck since (I THINK) alliage means alloy in French. The rim width is the distance in mm from bead to bead (look up Sheldon brown for more than you ever want to know about rims and tires).
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Old 04-12-15, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 2old
Guess you're out of luck since (I THINK) alliage means alloy in French. The rim width is the distance in mm from bead to bead (look up Sheldon brown for more than you ever want to know about rims and tires).
Out of luck because I can't find anything about the rims, or because you think they're not good for 2" or 2.15" tires?
What are 'ES people' btw?
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Old 04-12-15, 01:47 PM
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Out of luck for determining the rim manufacturer. ES = Endless Sphere (website). Chinese (AFAIK) build rear wheels with the rim centered to the hub width which doesn't work since the freewheel/cassette makes the hub "asymmetrical". Knowing the rim inner width should allow you to discover the range of tire widths which are acceptable.
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Old 04-12-15, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 2old
Out of luck for determining the rim manufacturer. ES = Endless Sphere (website). Chinese (AFAIK) build rear wheels with the rim centered to the hub width which doesn't work since the freewheel/cassette makes the hub "asymmetrical". Knowing the rim inner width should allow you to discover the range of tire widths which are acceptable.
I understand. I'll ask there about the tires. Thank you very much.
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Old 04-12-15, 03:21 PM
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You guys have made this rocket science for no reason. The 2,0 inch tires will fit without issue. And the tougher tires might be the better consideration, for the sake of durability. There's no need to know about spoke adjustments when it's actually a simple tire change.
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Old 04-12-15, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tds101
You guys have made this rocket science for no reason. The 2,0 inch tires will fit without issue. And the tougher tires might be the better consideration, for the sake of durability. There's no need to know about spoke adjustments when it's actually a simple tire change.
Yes I already realized 2" will work even when the wheels stay as off center as they are right now. I would rather have the better offroad grip of the Big Ben though, hence the attention to details.

Anyone, I'll just order the Big Ben and I'll have the rims dished at a bike shop tomorrow, it couldn't hurt. Thanks everyone.

Update: Placed an order for Big Ben tires plus some accessories, including a spokes key if I ever need it. I'll update when they arrive. Thanks again.

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Old 04-12-15, 05:49 PM
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OK, here's my take. Put the tires on - they'll fit. Then go get the wheel "trued" at your bike shop. The wheels can become crooked when you ride them, and I've had it happen with the crappy spokes that were on the wheel. This is a risk of buying any inexpensive bike/ebike that uses cheaper parts. My bike had this issue, it was single walled rim.

As for speed, I've gone over 40mph going downhill on my bikes. I have Big Ben, GoodYear, and Maxxis tires. All have held up perfectly. My Lombardo minivelo currently has a flat, as the innertube is damaged at the air valve. I can't patch that.

Now, I'll be installing my Dillenger front wheel electric bike kit in a week or so. I'll be installing it on my 29er with the Big Ben's. I'm installing a 3 speed IGH in the rear wheel first. Single speed plus motor for me doesn't work, even if I average 18-20mph on flats under my own power. But, I'll get to test my tires durability this way. The bike has WTB branded wheels and they're solid! Double walled, great spokes, and easily handle a heavier rider - which I'll be until about mid summer.
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Old 04-13-15, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tds101
OK, here's my take. Put the tires on - they'll fit. Then go get the wheel "trued" at your bike shop. The wheels can become crooked when you ride them, and I've had it happen with the crappy spokes that were on the wheel. This is a risk of buying any inexpensive bike/ebike that uses cheaper parts. My bike had this issue, it was single walled rim.

As for speed, I've gone over 40mph going downhill on my bikes. I have Big Ben, GoodYear, and Maxxis tires. All have held up perfectly. My Lombardo minivelo currently has a flat, as the innertube is damaged at the air valve. I can't patch that.

Now, I'll be installing my Dillenger front wheel electric bike kit in a week or so. I'll be installing it on my 29er with the Big Ben's. I'm installing a 3 speed IGH in the rear wheel first. Single speed plus motor for me doesn't work, even if I average 18-20mph on flats under my own power. But, I'll get to test my tires durability this way. The bike has WTB branded wheels and they're solid! Double walled, great spokes, and easily handle a heavier rider - which I'll be until about mid summer.
Is your 29er a mountain bike?
Also, why not get the wheel dished before I install the tires? I think I'll have it wheeled as soon as I have the new tires in my hands, so the wheel won't have a chance to go off-center again. The bike shop where I got the bike won't like that I changed the tires myself, so I'd rather do it after they've dished the wheels.
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Old 04-13-15, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by YonathanZ
Is your 29er a mountain bike?
Also, why not get the wheel dished before I install the tires? I think I'll have it wheeled as soon as I have the new tires in my hands, so the wheel won't have a chance to go off-center again. The bike shop where I got the bike won't like that I changed the tires myself, so I'd rather do it after they've dished the wheels.
A 29er IS a mountain bike. And the wheel I'm installing is a 700c, which most bike shops will tell you won't fit a 29er. Too bad a 29er is actually a 700c. Heh,...

As for getting the wheel "trued", do it at your convenience. If the bike shop will give you flak for changing the tire, do it before you put the Schwalbe's on then. My point is there's really no reason to do one or the other first. Unless the tires rub,...then it's a priority.
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Old 04-14-15, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tds101
A 29er IS a mountain bike. And the wheel I'm installing is a 700c, which most bike shops will tell you won't fit a 29er. Too bad a 29er is actually a 700c. Heh,...

As for getting the wheel "trued", do it at your convenience. If the bike shop will give you flak for changing the tire, do it before you put the Schwalbe's on then. My point is there's really no reason to do one or the other first. Unless the tires rub,...then it's a priority.
Is it normal for wheels, under normal use, to go off-center, or is it a problem of not tightening the spokes right in the first place?
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Old 04-14-15, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by YonathanZ
Is it normal for wheels, under normal use, to go off-center, or is it a problem of not tightening the spokes right in the first place?
Yes, it is normal for the wheels to become unbalanced. It could be loose spokes, a spoke might break, etc, etc. All normal.
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Old 04-14-15, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by YonathanZ
Is it normal for wheels, under normal use, to go off-center, or is it a problem of not tightening the spokes right in the first place?
Bad build in the first place.

Generic chinese ebike hub/wheel builds tend to be built centered on the hub (which is off center in the frame) as mentioned, and do not have proper spoke tension. Worse, they need to be retensioned when bought, and again after a couple of rides. Once it is built properly and broken in, it should be relatively trouble free.

A well built wheel that isn't abused may never need spoke work, but the Chinese ones almost always do.
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Old 04-14-15, 02:08 PM
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Thanks.
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