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Old 08-27-08, 09:32 AM   #1
robtown
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Just ordered Bionx PL350 HS

I pulled the trigger and sent my money to NYCEWheels yesterday. I paid an extra $100 for the High Speed kit that's supposed to raise the limit 5mph. I believe that gives me a 385rpm motor. If I can maintain about 23mph on level ground (vice 20) that should suffice.
I intend to install on my cyclocross bike (700c wheels). The dropouts are only 132.5mm - so I'm hoping they can stretch 2.5mm for the wheel. Worst case may require a new frame.
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Old 09-24-08, 12:36 PM   #2
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The kit finally arrived today. I ended up getting the throttle version - black control panel. I'll ride the cross bike in tomorrow and install the Bionx for the trip home
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Old 09-24-08, 01:49 PM   #3
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Sounds like the same setup as mine - a cyclocross with a 132.5 dropout and 700c wheels. The 132.5 dropouts I believe are meant to be used with either 130 or 135mm axel wheels. My bike started out with a 130mm axel wheel and is now using 135mm axel wheel.

My experience between using the PL250 and the PL500HS is that on flat ground at highest assist, my top speed went from 25 to 32. That's at 90% effort.

I generally ride around 23-24 mph. I only go faster if it's safer to do so. Holes and bumps come up faster. Don't take the turns too fast. Although I haven't slipped yet, I can easily see that happening if you try to gun it to beat the yellow on a left turn and hit a patch of sand or man hole cover (esp when wet).

That extra $100 or so for the HS kit is worth every penny!
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Old 09-25-08, 11:12 PM   #4
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Sounds like the same setup as mine - a cyclocross with a 132.5 dropout and 700c wheels. The 132.5 dropouts I believe are meant to be used with either 130 or 135mm axel wheels. My bike started out with a 130mm axel wheel and is now using 135mm axel wheel.

My experience between using the PL250 and the PL500HS is that on flat ground at highest assist, my top speed went from 25 to 32. That's at 90% effort.

I generally ride around 23-24 mph. I only go faster if it's safer to do so. Holes and bumps come up faster. Don't take the turns too fast. Although I haven't slipped yet, I can easily see that happening if you try to gun it to beat the yellow on a left turn and hit a patch of sand or man hole cover (esp when wet).

That extra $100 or so for the HS kit is worth every penny!
I did an 8 mile run down our MUP (very nice & straight) on my commute to the LBS. A number of issues popped up. First, 15mph seemed like 20mph (and the odometer said 6.5 miles not 8 miles). Second, and more important, it was very hard to get the assist to kick in. I had to put 150% or more of my normal effort in get assistance. When it kicked in it was impressive - especially on settings 3 & 4. I haven't tried any codes yet. I wonder if some of the issue is the wheel indicator is not properly facing down.

The LBS owner thought the bike was way over 50 lbs - and if feels that way to lift it. Before the kit it was a solid 27 lbs. With the kit and an empty rear trunk - the LBS weighed it at 46 lbs. With a rack and Brooks saddle that's not bad.
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Old 09-26-08, 12:43 PM   #5
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I did an 8 mile run down our MUP (very nice & straight) on my commute to the LBS. A number of issues popped up. First, 15mph seemed like 20mph (and the odometer said 6.5 miles not 8 miles). Second, and more important, it was very hard to get the assist to kick in. I had to put 150% or more of my normal effort in get assistance. When it kicked in it was impressive - especially on settings 3 & 4. I haven't tried any codes yet. I wonder if some of the issue is the wheel indicator is not properly facing down.

The LBS owner thought the bike was way over 50 lbs - and if feels that way to lift it. Before the kit it was a solid 27 lbs. With the kit and an empty rear trunk - the LBS weighed it at 46 lbs. With a rack and Brooks saddle that's not bad.
That wheel indicator (the notch?) needs to point down in order to differentiate pedalling effort vs bumps on the path. If it's not pointing down, you would have to pedal harder for the sensor to pick it up. And some orientations won't even pick up your pedalling effort. Assist 1 is barely noticeable, but it is signficant if you measure it. Most of the time, I use assist 3. If not, I use 2. I think I only used assist 4 two or three times so far.

Regarding the speed being off, you may want to make sure that the wheel size is set correctly.

The heavy bike takes getting used to. But I'm ok with it because I can still lift it onto the bus rack!
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Old 09-27-08, 09:49 AM   #6
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Here it is. I have to get an alternate brake pickup that will work with my road brake levers. 46 lbs!



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Old 09-27-08, 10:59 AM   #7
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Mine is 50 pounds. Must be my kickstand.

What are you using for a freewheel? And what's the cog count for both the freewheel and crankset?

Make sure you torque the rear axle bolts and recheck them periodically.
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Old 09-27-08, 02:26 PM   #8
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Mine is 50 pounds. Must be my kickstand.

What are you using for a freewheel? And what's the cog count for both the freewheel and crankset?

Make sure you torque the rear axle bolts and recheck them periodically.
Post some pictures of your setup! I got the freewheel from Harris Cylcery - a MegaRange Shimano 11-27T seven speed. It's got a new design that makes the 11T possible - it's very smooth and quiet.
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Old 09-28-08, 08:43 AM   #9
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what size tires are you using? My front is 23c 120psi tires but the rear is 32c 80 psi because of the extra unsprung weight of the wheel.

Where did you get the light mount for the front light?

Nice yellow cable housing.

My curb weight is 48lbs. You have pretty much what I have on the bike- rack, fenders, f/r lights, no stand, etc. It must be the frame. I have a steel frame.
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Old 09-28-08, 03:01 PM   #10
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what size tires are you using? My front is 23c 120psi tires but the rear is 32c 80 psi because of the extra unsprung weight of the wheel.

Where did you get the light mount for the front light?

Nice yellow cable housing.

My curb weight is 48lbs. You have pretty much what I have on the bike- rack, fenders, f/r lights, no stand, etc. It must be the frame. I have a steel frame.
I'm running 700 x 35c at about 70 psi. The light is a focused halogen that came in a kit with rear light, brackets and bottle generator from VeloOrange.com. The light is on a bracket attached to the fork where caliper brakes would mount. I'm using mini-V brakes. The light isn't connected yet - it was a good price and I wanted to see how good it'd work. The yellow cabling was from a Jagwire kit. It was a nightmare to cut and install end caps on. The ends splayed and the cable housing thread was a mess. It does look good.
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Old 09-28-08, 07:25 PM   #11
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hmm.. did the bionx wheel have holes for a presta valve? Mine had shraeder valve hole.
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Old 09-30-08, 03:49 PM   #12
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hmm.. did the bionx wheel have holes for a presta valve? Mine had shraeder valve hole.
I'm pretty sure it's presta, at least that's what I installed.

I ran her yesterday at levels 2 & 3 for 17 miles. The battery meter dropped to 1/3 full. I hope that's not accurate because I expect closer to 30 miles on a charge.
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Old 09-30-08, 09:09 PM   #13
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You can install presta tubes in shrader holes, but much better to install a pair of Wheel Master alloy stem savers.. The wider 700C rims can be drilled to accomodate shrader valve stems without weakening the rim, so that's what the rim manufacturers do. Here's what they look like...

http://cgi.ebay.com/BIKE-BICYCLE-PRE...d=p3286.c0.m14

I installed these but first modified them with a small hand file. I shaped the lip to conform to the inside curve of the rim. They install before lining the inside of the rim with cloth rim tape.
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Old 10-01-08, 10:06 AM   #14
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I'm pretty sure it's presta, at least that's what I installed.

I ran her yesterday at levels 2 & 3 for 17 miles. The battery meter dropped to 1/3 full. I hope that's not accurate because I expect closer to 30 miles on a charge.
I did a test on mine when i first got it. I got 45 miles using level 3. I measured it all the way until the meter was empty (even the last half bar). However, i didn't ride it that hard and didn't go very fast (kept it under 25 for the most part).

You should be able to get another 10 miles at least if you ride until the half bar (ie dot) is gone. If you don't like taking it that low, it's ok to run it until you're down to the half bar.
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Old 10-01-08, 10:10 AM   #15
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You can install presta tubes in shrader holes, but much better to install a pair of Wheel Master alloy stem savers.. The wider 700C rims can be drilled to accomodate shrader valve stems without weakening the rim, so that's what the rim manufacturers do. Here's what they look like...

http://cgi.ebay.com/BIKE-BICYCLE-PRE...d=p3286.c0.m14

I installed these but first modified them with a small hand file. I shaped the lip to conform to the inside curve of the rim. They install before lining the inside of the rim with cloth rim tape.
So these things prevent the stem from being cut by the valve hole's edge? Does it also allow you to use presta valves? I'd rather use presta value tube for the rear so my spare tube can be used for either tire.
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Old 10-01-08, 01:42 PM   #16
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The stem savers convert the hole to presta only. They are just a pair of bushings that acts to reduce the hole size to permit only the presta valve.
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