. eZee Sprint GTS
. LI Bat. Phylion XH370-10J DC37.0V
. 1,050 miles ...10 months old
. After the first 200 miles the controller failed and I replaced it
. after replacing the controller everything worked fine. However, gradually the distance/time before the controller yellow and then red light came on kept getting shorter/sooner. My last ride in Sep. (before winter set in) only got me about 2 miles on the flat and then a 1/4 mile uphill before the red came on and sytems shut down. I was able to turn everything off for awhile and then go again but only for a short while.
. It appears that the bat still has 42 volts left when I test it both when I start and finish.
. I just charged the bat after being stored inside after 4 months. I tested 42V when I started, it took 25 minutes to charge....then it tested 42 V again after the charge was complete.
1. What is the expected life of lithium batteries?
2. Has anyone had a similar problem?
3. Could it possibly be another controller problem?
My next step will be shipping the battery/charger to the dealer (300 miles away) to have them do tests...
If your battery was at 42V after the two miles I'd suspect a problem with the controller again (or something else like a premature cut off from the battery BMS). If your battery had been empty it should have been around 36-37V, not 42V. You should be getting much more than two miles on a flat terrain. Cold temperature will shorten the range your battery can give, but I doubt it was that cold in sept. Is your bike still under warranty? If so, call the dealer immediately.
Many thx for your input.
I have contacted the dealer and am sending the battery/charger to him for extensive testing. He extended the battery warrentee several months ago when I first reported the problem. If the battery gets a clean bill of health, then we will go to the next step...controller, cut off, etc.
Thank you again.
Fully charged it should read 42.0 ( hot off the charger ) and left sitting overnight would likely be 41.x ... a short ride would have it resting at 40v but what you want to know is the voltage while it is plugged into the controller under load (accelerating, or going up hill ) .. gets trickly but tape the volt meter to the bike and test it out.. report back..
The BMS should cut out at 30v or so but that would be absolutely empty. not much left below 33v
When it quits, does the battery or controller feel hot/warm ?
Thx for the very good info and testing ideas. The battery and charger are currently in the mail to my dealer. He is going to do a full test on them and report back to me with results and suggested path forward. I hope it is as easy as a faulty BMS/battery replacement.
I will post the results when I hear from the dealer and go from there....