What controller to use with new batteries
Fit 48V Motor Wattage:200 Watts to 800 Watts, 600 Watts suggested
Voltage: 48 Volts
Capacity: 15 Amp Hours
Dimension: 270 ×270×75mm
Weight: 11.5 kg ( 25.4 lbs)
Charging Voltage: 61 Volts
Charging Current: <5 Amps
Rated Discharging Amperage: ≤15 Amps
Max Discharging Amperage: 30 Amps
Max Discharging Current: 60 Amps
Lifecycle of the whole pack: >85% capacity after 1000 cycles.
Lifecycle of single cell: >85% capacity after 1500 cycles, >70% capacity after 3000 cycles. (<1C discharge rate and <1C charge rate)
I have a Crystalyte Sparrow (brushed motor) rear wheel kit that I was running 36V's of SLA power.
Above are the specs on the 48V battery I just purchased.
Can anyone recommend a good suitable controller to use that's reasonably priced?
This is my first post and I didn't search the whole board over first. I would really appreciate a little feedback as it's getting warm and I'm excited to get my bike back on the road soon!
Here is the proper controller for it. It's 25 amps. That will probably work. It's $100.
Are you looking for a cheaper one? You have to be careful which one you get because you have a brushed motor and I don't know if you can just get any controller for it or not. I'd probably just get this one.
Well I was looking at $40-50 controllers but thought the Crystalyte was much more $.
I found that one for $20 less and I'd rather spend a little more on a brand I trust.
I'm well aware that most brushless controllers are not suitable but it's more the amperage
that confuses me and most of the specs on this lithium battery..
Would the 25amp version you've suggested, X-CT4825S, be better than the 30amp Crystalyte Sparrow model, X-CT4830S with the above battery? What difference will an extra 5amps make?
If I use the 25A model as suggested and Voltage X Amperage = Wattage
Then my output is equal to 1200W
iirc the hub motor rating is 1200W but this battery is rated up to 800W??
Should I look for a 15-20amp controller to better match this battery?
My most often ride is to work and back which is only about 20 minutes with a few hills.
I'd rather get max speed (within reason) than distance.
Yeah, a 20 amp battery would be better suited for the battery. The 25 amp might be okay though.
If it helps anyone else, I was advised that with my brushed motor I should go with one that will allow the higher amperage or I will have low torque. I guess my range will be much higher anyways going from SLA to LifePO4 lithium anyways and my main ride to work isn't all that far.
I think I'm going with a 30 amp controller.
I've got a brushed geared motor, with a 48V 20 amp controller (ecrazyman - Shenzen Sucteam off Ebay - around 40 dollars) - and I noticed that although the controller is nominally rated at 800 watts, I am able to pull over 1200 watts out of my battery with that controller! So it is worth checking with a wattsup or Turnigy meter, because you could inadvertently stress the battery at those wattage levels, thinking you were only pulling a max of 20 amps. Not sure how to limit the amperage though, as I don't think a CycleAnalyst will connect directly to those cheap brushed controllers.
Just judicious use of the throttle I guess.
Good to know about the cheaper controllers.
Does anyone have any experience with Kelly controllers?
They get mixed reviews with the bad ones on big controllers from what I've read today. And most seemed to be in the hookup sequence and a couple lg models.
I like the programability and heat and current protection, and I already have the serial to usb connector for the engine management in my car.
I'm thinking about a 12-48V 50 or 100amp controller set to about 50amps at startup and a little under 30 at full throttle where it can get hot under load (and go from there). I can use their 12-72V any amp controller but think I'll save the $40 because next logical upgrade would be a brushless hub and diff. controller.
But I'm waiting to hear back on transit times before I complete the checkout. Anyone have any experience with these Chinese controllers.
Here is the recommendation from Kelly Controllers;
The RS232 converter is required to establish the communication between the controller and the computer if you want to use KDS or KD controller.
We will suggest KDS48100(48V 100A peak 40A continuous) to you.You can limit the max motor current in GUI.
Here is what Crystalyte says about Morphs recommendation;
We sold 20A controllers with Sparrow for a year while we had 25A and 35A in testing. The 25 passed, so we obsoleted the 20 and replaced it with the 25. The 35 melted brush housings for enough testers that we never offered it in general availability. I don't think we ever tested a 30A, but Sparrow 3625 and 4825 are good products -- stable, reliable, good performers, and we don't plan to change anything.
EDIT Ordered ths Kelly controller http://www.kellycontroller.com/shop/...product_id=181
This weekend is projected record temps +20C. Hopefully the following weekend I'll be riding again Cammy battery has cleared Hong Kong customs today, left Shenzhen 2 days ago.
Last edited by Chillboy; 03-31-10 at 07:09 PM.
www.hobbyking.com has the ver1 Turnigy meter for $25., $30 shipped to Canada even! Just ordered it.
I'll def. want this if I decide on the Kelly controller and pretty handy, maybe the best $30 spent on the bike so far.
I have 5 analog ga's in my car, it's comforting to know you're operating smoothly...knowing when you're not is priceless
Last edited by Chillboy; 03-31-10 at 07:14 PM.
Contoller arrived today! Not too bad transit time of 8 days from the day I ordered direct from Kelly. It was delayed at least one day to get advice on which model. It is much smaller than I expected at 122x78x41mm.
Battery was in Canada this am too so I'm hoping it arrives tomorrow. Also tomorrow a machinest friend of mine is dropping by to take measurements to make me a good torque converter, I'm hoping he can start on a battery mount too
Prob riding again this weekend!! I'll post a pic or video when it's done, wish me luck!
The only bad thing I can say about Kelly so far isn't too bad but way too much communication. Don't email without more news.
I had 2 reps, one in USA and one in HK emailing me almost the same info like "received payment will ship asap" How about waitig another few hours and just send the tracking number. I should also let them know the link for tracking was wrong...but overall very good experience...as long as it works as it should when I get it all together. In their defence I let them know I was really reluctant to believe their transit time so A+ on beating the battery here.
I also told the USA rep that I thought it was a sham to have to buy a converter communicate with the serial port since they made the unit. I purchased the converter only and they threw in the cord without me asking. It's only $9. and prob cost them pennies but that adds a little to the service level imo.
Last edited by Chillboy; 04-05-10 at 05:35 PM.
Installing soon, lotsa trivial questions, reassurance...:)thx
Should I be using a contactor or solid state relay switch when I wire this up? I was planning to use a 40 amp fuse (was 30A fuse with old 36V sla) and also read that a solid state relay might be better than a contactor since the amperage isn't that high and they draw less pwr to operate and have a little delay (benefit over fuse as well). The controller outputs 40amp (prob running around 30A once setup) so I should use a relay or fuse?
If a relay is worth having, would someone take a look at this one (275 6 pole model) to see if it's what I need?
It's rated 25amp at 28V DC and I assume there's headroom for my requirements, full specs here - http://www.deltrol-controls.com/files/rel270.pdf
Also once I power the controller for the first time with the included resistor(s) it should be pulled from the line and not needed again? How long would the small resistors in the controller hold their power without a load? I've only precharged on a 1F cap, and the first time is the only time you need to use a resistor unless it's discharged for long storage.
Lastly I notice most people using single Anderson connectors. Is there a disconnect sequence after the controller has had power? Or any reason not to just use their storage battery connector with power and ground on one plug? I think I have a 175A grey one from a amplifier on a sub-box audio install from way back.
I want to get to the electrical wholesaler and stereo shop for some good multi-strand wiring today if I can make time. Is 8ga overkill for the motor? I'm hoping they have a roll of 10ga blk.
Thx for your input! If you notice I had my power switch on handlebars in pics section that's cuz I blew my old controller wiring it back up in a hurry and end of last season I had full on or off only. I won't get fooled again