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  1. #1
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    Controller problem ?

    Hi all
    I have purchased a 200W 24V 12Ahr electric hub bike conversion kit.
    I connected the 2 batteries in series as instructed. I then went to plug the battery pack plug to the corresponding plug on the controller (no brand name or other details ex china) and the connectors sparked ??? as I pushed the plugs together. I then plugged the hub motor to the controller. Next I attempted to connect the throttle to the controller. When the terminals of each plug touched the motor went to full power.???. The throttle was free and not stuck in power position.
    Can anyone help?
    I have contacted the supplier but no rersponse yet

  2. #2
    Senior Member teamontherun's Avatar
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    It seems that your throttle is stuck in the on position internally or it is shorting to full throttle. I have heard of people getting water in their throttle and this happening. What type of kit is it? (brand/model).

    The spark is normal and only gets worse as you get more powerful kits.
    Only God Can Judge Me

  3. #3
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    Just a thought, plug everything in except the battery first. Then plug in the battery, see if that makes a difference.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by yopappamon View Post
    Just a thought, plug everything in except the battery first. Then plug in the battery, see if that makes a difference.
    Yeah, I agree. You should always make the battery the last thing to connect. That being said however, I don't think that's going to prove out to be the problem. I'm guessing you have ether a bad throttle or controller. I myself received a new controller back in December but I had no plans to use the bike during the winter so I didn't install it until last weekend. To my suprise it was a brand new defective controller. When I flip on the power switch the bike creeps without using the throttle and when you turn the throttle the bike stops dead. As soon as you let off the throttle it goes back to the creep again. I'm telling you all this to point out that a lot of brand new parts can be defective so don't ge t excited over it. You just need to keep after your supplier to make good with the parts. I hope you used your credit card so you have a way to grab the money back if he doesn't make good for you.

  5. #5
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    Thanks fellas
    I have tested the resistance across the 6 phase wires of the controller and three were low (2 no reading) Supplier has agreed to replace . I am now worried about the controller. Is there a test to check it out?

  6. #6
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    Testing a hall-effect throttle requires a 4.3 Volt DC power source and a Voltmeter. Apply 4.3 Volts DC positive to the throttles red wire and 4.3 Volts DC ground to the throttles black wire. Attach a Voltmeter between the black wire and the green or blue wire and twist or push the throttle. The Voltmeter should vary between zero and 3+ Volts. If the throttle has zero or low output Voltage that points towards a bad throttle.

    I used a 3AA battery holder that was about 4.8V iirc. Don't worry about the actual voltage (4-5V) just make sure you indentify positive, neg. and wiper wires (usually blue or greeen mine was yellow). Then wire it on the bike without runaway fears

    EDIT for re-reading - the controller I couldn't rule out other than it will only hook to usb when it has power. If you motor is good and throttle is wired properly, that only leaves the controller. They prob gave you proper wiring codes with your kit, but I can say with my Chinese controller the wires weren't the same colour as their manual, double check..
    Last edited by Chillboy; 05-12-10 at 07:26 AM.

  7. #7
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    Thx Chillboy

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