Electric lights on an Electric Bike. Should be easy...
Complex question... So I went ahead and made a short video.
Much easier to explain that way.
Witt...check out this out... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/vie...p?f=31&t=21459
Inexpensive small wide-input range adjustable DC DC converter...I have one...haven't used it yet...got it from "Lyen" in California.
Possible DC/DC Step Down Converter/Regulator
That forum thread is really cool.
That was super geeky how he had pics of all those different uses. (Geeky is good, if you ask me.)
However, I'd feel nervous hooking something that small to my POWERFUL 48-Volt SLA battery pack.
I was thinking something more like this...
That way, I could power anything I wanted. If I could find a proper housing, I could use a car headlight. or I could hook up the car horn from a 1989 Buick Century. (That will get people to move out of the way!!)
I could put a damn GPS on my bike... Hell, it would run most car electronics that are light enough to mount on the bike. (That GPS would be kinda cool if the bike had more range.)
Snikies! I bet it's the reverse connector... WTF? I'm going to go and check it now.
Nope... That's not it either.
I can't find a single circuit that is interrupted by that switch. I wonder if my switch is bad??
Ok, just watched vid...
All you have to do is follow the wire from the throttle..
If it goes directly into the pie, then you have either another connector comin out of the pie with a two wire connector OR the pie just dead ends them inside the pie..
If that's the case, then carefully open the wire going from the throttle..
The wires are as follows....
Black...... common ground.
White..... Variable voltage from throttle.
Green..... 48v+ to lights on throttle.
Brown and Yellow... these are the wires connected TO the switch.
(they are not connected to anything but that switch)
I would just get a higher AH'd battery as the 4th battery..
(ex.. If they are 4 - 12ah batts, take one out and make it a 20ah batt)
Then all you have to do is wire 12v accessories though that switch..
If you don't want to mess with the throttle cable, buy a "switch clutch" and wire lights, horn an directionals to that.
In case you missed the video that I put up, here it is again.
(Mind you, my bike is pretty much torn apart in this video because I'm having a few things worked on and have mostly spare parts on the bike).
You will notice the switch clutch is hooked up to my 12v acc's..
12v 20ah lifepo5 to run those.
Yeah... Actually, I figured this out shortly after posting the video and manual on this thread. But couldn't post anything on it cuz the forum went down last night. I couldn't get to it anyway. ( I had a video to post and everything. I will paste the link below.)
Since the headlight button is on the throttle control (Which is lit up and therefore powered.) I assumed the wires coming from the switch already had a 5-Volt charge coming from them. Not the case. They were dead. I needed to use the 5-volt feed from the controller and add the wires from the switch into the loop. (As an interrupt.) (I used the diode testing mode on my multi-meter, and found the switch's circuit right away.)
So... To make a long story short. Here is my situation. The power isn't clean. It must spike when I hit the throttle. My light works like a charm, until I hit the throttle. Then it goes out.
The controller that they have integrated into the Magic Pie II is pretty damn crumby. By spring, I'm going to need an external controller. I have driven this motor for roughly 100 miles so far. (I have a computer on the bars.) This thing has shut down due to heat 3 times in that 100 miles. And it's freakin' November in Cincinnati. lol!
Oh... Here is that video of the light working.
PS - I mistakenly ran 53 volts through one of my two lights. (I had planned to put two on the bike.)
The flashlight didn't make it!
I seem to remember hearing someone say, "don't hook up the lights to the throttle connection...."
I wonder who that was?