sunnyday

So I decide that today is the day im gonna test my electric bike out by putting at least 15 miles on it and trying to see how well the hub motor did going up the steepest road in my area...

so I first test to see top speed on flat road..and it is about 25 MPH...

I do a couple miles on fairly flat land..and then decide to descend the huge hilly road in my area....everything is working good....I get to the bottom of the steep highway and turn around...I start to go up the hill but see a crescent wrench laying on the ground...so I get off my bike and pick up the wrench...I get back on my bike and pedal a little and apply throttle..AND DAMN...NOTHING HAPPENS...I double check all connections..I felt the battery , BMS and controller , and nothing was hot....I check the 20 amp fuse
..its fine...I let the bike sit for a few minutes..try again..and nothing...so now im stuck pedalling my 260 lb ass and this 70 lb bike up a 1/2 mil stretch of inclined hiway that is about 20-30 degree grade steep...I was not happy !!!!LOL..

so , now I need help figuring out what is wrong...fuse is okay...all connections are good..battery still has over 52 volts in it...and the led battery monitor mounted on front of bike is showing the battery is full charged...I even tryed another throttle controller to see if the twist throttle went bad...but that wasnt it either..

ANY IDEAS WHAT HAPPENED ? controller problem..BMS problem, brushless motor problem ?

it was working great..and the moment I stopped giving the bike throttle for about 30 seconds...and then tryed to apply throttle again, nothing happened...

sunnyday

is there any way I can hook up direclty to the hub motor with the lifepo4 battery to see if the hub motor spins ? Or do I need the controller to be involved for the 3 phase sensor crap ?

yopappamon

No, it doesn't work like that. Make sure you have voltage going to the controller. Make sure the e-brake levers are not disabling the controller, maybe meter them at the controller connector.

sunnyday

I never hooked up the e brake levers....

the battery power indicator is showing a full charge coming off the controller..so voltage seems to be going to the controller...

yopappamon

Check that all connectors are seated well. Disconnect power from the controller, wait about a minute, then reconnect it and try it.

You can try to put a voltmeter on the motor leads, but it takes a little know how to know what to look for. It might show up as DC, it might show up as AC. I'm not sure how these controllers all put out power, but PWM outputs probably would show up as AC if the switching frequency is above a few hertz. Try it both ways, if you see a good sized voltage then the controller is probably working. If you don't see anything, that doesn't mean it isn't working, it could be that the PWM frequency is too high for the meter to pick up. I just don't know enough about them to tell you what to do there.

Is your system a pedal first controller?

sunnyday

no, this isnt pedal assist

the battery LED meter that connects to the controller is showing the battery is fully charged...

this damn thing was working perfectly for about 3 miles..and then as soon as I stopped for about 30 seconds and tryed to use it again, nothing at all happened...I didnt smell any smoke or here any odd noises.....

this has me perplexed...I checked all the connections...they are fine...

I know its not the battery...because the battery was at 50 volts, when I first got the bike..and it powered the bike fine...the battery is currently at 52 volts...

its either a BMS problem..or controller problem or something inside the hub motor is screwed up.

sunnyday

I do have a voltmeter....there has to be someway to test the controller and see if that is the problem ?

I dont think it is a BMS issue, because the battery indicator that is hooked to the controller shows me the battery is fully charged..

perhaps a sensor came loose inside the hub motor...

I just dont know.

sunnyday

pic of my controller...

it never got hot..or smoked..

yopappamon

A bad hall sensor in the motor would still have the motor do something, probably violent shakes or shudders.

sunnyday

is there a easy way for me to bypass the BMS on the battery...and just hook up the battery direct to the controller ?

if not...I guess I could just cut the 2 wires coming off the battery , before they enter the BMS..and then hook those 2 wires to the controller plug...to see if it works...if it did, then the BMS is bad...if not..then it has to be a bad controller or hub motor problem..

the damn thing is brand new...LOL...I would think if the controller went bad..there woulda been some smoke or a burning smell or the controller would have felt hot to the touch...none of that happened though.

sunnyday

well that kinda rules out the hub motor being a problem then..

I dont know why the controller would have went bad...this thing has less then 15 miles on it....

it was working perfect...and on mile 4, i stopped for 30 seconds..and then tryed to apply throttle and nothing would happen.

yopappamon

Don't bypass the BMS, just meter the output voltage to the controller when you try to move. If you still have a voltage feed to the controller, it's not the BMS. If the voltage drops off, then bypass it.

sunnyday

heres a wire schematic of my controller..its the first one on the right...

looks like I got a cheap ass Conhis controller

https://www.conhismotor.com/retail/manual/WDFC.pdf

sunnyday

Im not sure what you mean...

sunnyday

I just checked the voltage of the 3 seperate wires that come out of the controller and get connected to the 3 seperate wires of the rear hub motor....{ not the hall motor sensor plug that has 5 small wires in it **

the 3 seperate wires coming out of the controller are showing 52.6 volts...which is what the battery voltage is.....now, when I apply throttle , the voltage stays the same...on those 3 wires...

is that normal ?

I hate to buy a new controller, if its not a controller problem.

gotta be someway to test the controller and see if it is malfunctioning.

SeizeTech

yes, I agree with you. what you are seeing is inconclusive, If I was you I'd investigate further, look for something more obvious, have you dont a visual inspection on the inside of the control to see if any of the parts look fried or charred?