sunnyday

This is using 2 pieces of 1/16" thick plexiglass...that are each 18" wide x 36" long . They are attached together to make a 90 degree V shape . At the open end of the V shape , it is 26 " wide , which allows the handlebars , my head , my shoulder, my chest to all be protected from the headwinds. Im using 4 small steel L brackets to hold the 2 pieces of plexiglass together . It would have been more sturdy to go with 1/8" thick plexiglass , but then the weight would be double that of 1/16" thick . The 1/16" thick needed some lightweight aluminum strips to be fastened to the L brackets and the plexiglass. These aluminum strips are 12 " each long and I use 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. The windshield is now sturdy and still lightweight. My guess is the total weight fo this windshield is about 2-1/2 lbs. Everything is fastened together using self tapping screws.

Two things I learned. Its best to keep the protective film over the plexiglass until all drilling/ fabricating is finished . I mistakenly took off the protective film and the aluminum shavings from drilling made small scratchs on the plexiglass surfaces. Also, when drilling the self tapping screws, do not push to hard or the plexiglass will crack. Just let the screws self tap under moderate pressure.

zzzzz

wouldn't that create a lot of wind resistance?

sunnyday

I guess I will find out soon. Im hoping the smooth , flat and pointed surface will provide less wind resistance then having the wind hit my flat face, flat upper torso , shoulders/ arms.

I can always make the windshield smaller , mount it on the bike at a different angle, etc...in an attempt to get the best results....and if it doesnt help at all, I will just keep it off all the time.

Im just experimenting :**

SeizeTech

acetone is suposed to work as a solvent bonding agent for plexiglas, actually better than a glue because it disolves the plexiglass and makes it possible for 2 peices to become one. I'd experiment on two scrap pieces first, working with a clear solvent and doing a good job might require some practise

sunnyday

never knew that...thanks..

Sangesf

You can also use PVC glue

SeizeTech

or the solvent that acts as the reactive ingredient in PVC glue, MEK - Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Nasty stuff but definitely more reactive than acetone. Paint Supplier store like Cloverdale Paint sell it.

yopappamon

You could also heat one piece and bend it. elliminate the need for glue.

SeizeTech

thats the best advice so far. I am glad you mentioned it. thats definitely the way to give it a 'manufactured' look

sunnyday

I wonder whats the best / fastest and safest way to heat it .

SeizeTech

ideally, in an oven. the million dollar question is, will it fit?

SeizeTech

a hot air gun is so hot, it'll melt lead/tin solder but it might required a certain amount of finesse to heat it evenly and without scorching or damaging it somewhere

yopappamon

Fastest = blowtorch
Safest = oven
Best = heatgun

The best way is a strip heater that will heat a line that can be folded, but most people don't have those. A blow torch will work but it's very easy to burn the material. I use a heatgun. Weller paint stripping heat gun, if I remember right. I used it to bend pvc material to make battery cases. I would clamp the material to the edge of my stainless steel grill (it would be too small for a windshield), heat the line that was to bend, moving the heat gun back and forth until the material started to sag, then slowly help the material bend with your hand. When it was able to bend far enough (ususally bend it further than need, because it would want to spring back a little) stop heating and hold it in place or clamp another board to hold it, until it cooled.

edcastrovalley

There are some videos out there. Like this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUTNcQlHiho

SeizeTech

we used to heat the inside of an icefishing hut by having a bucket built into the wall,

then we would put a blow torch on the bucket. the whole idea was to create a safe heat exchange.

except in your case, you dont need to get into the structure with the windsheild, so maybe a hot air gun inside a temporary, yet fire safe, enclosure.

yopappamon

Here's an idea. Not sure if it would work. Take a metal pipe, lay the material over it where you want the bend, blow the heat gun down the pipe, and see if enough heat gets transfered to the material to bend it, if not maybe try a blow torch. might want to have a longer pipe if you use the blow torch. Would make for a clean bend if it works. or a 5 alarm fire if it didn't.

yopappamon

Found some pictures.

Philphine

just wanderin' around the forum and saw this. i'm really more from the alt-bike forum but i'm playing with the idea of electrifying one. don't know if this will work for you but...



it's an atv fairing i got off ebay. $15 plus shipping. it's just plastic and plexiglass so it's pretty light (the mounting hardware is kinda weighty though. this is for a semi-recumbent project so how it works with a different seating position i don't know. actually this is something i'm still building so i can't say how well it will work for this position either. the headlight is an added thing too (no hole. just an uncut front).

anyway, just thought i'd show it to you.