Yes, it's a battery.
Yes, it's a battery.
Sangesf: Checkout http://www.xtracycle.com/cargo-bicyc...o-bicycle.html I've ordered the ClassicCargo Kit as a result of AllenG's successful mind control experiment.
Is that the wideloader attachment or the longtail. Xtracycle's site could show better pictures.
The Big Dummy frame is made to use the Xtracycle accessories. The wideloader is the bar on the bottom (I have one for each side). I hauled a 60 pound box on there the other day. The long loader is the silver upright one.Quote:
Is that the wideloader attachment or the longtail.
I have about 1400 miles on it now. I had to have the display replaced this week. I got caught in a heavy rain storm and shorly thereafter it quit working. E+ sent a replacement right away.
your dispaly replaced under 1 year warranty or did you paid?
Warranty, no charge.
just a thought,
when you have any warranty issue,
can you deal directly with EMS or you must go through place shopwhere you bought?
I bought the complete bike right from them. We drove down test rode the bike and hauled it home. I called after hours on Monday night and they shipped the part out on Tuesday.
We just started rentals at out http://www.nlebike.com and are wondering if anyone can recommend a good Electeic scooter for our rentals.
write new thread about your rentals,
this thread is about E+ bike
I started to commute regularly on my E+
Jerking , what you call shuttering came back , obviously it has to do with software.
If you didn't ride Tidal Force you don't know how smooth ebike can be.
You just think that is normal behavour of ebike but it doesn't have to be.
Like TF shows you don't ahve to have jerk on applying throttle, you can have strong regen, you don't have to feel jerk on regen applying, you don't have to have jerking/shuttering at higher speed like E+ has.
Great to see another Big Dummy with the eplus kit on it! I got mine last September and been loving it ever since.
I agree with the pros and cons in your review. It's a great combination (eplus + BigDummy). Attached is a photo of my eplus WITHOUT the paniers parked next to my Chevy Volt. The changes I've had done include getting Alex Rims, and adding one of their Lithium Batteries. I generally try to avoid traffic if possible, but when I am riding on the roads I like to drop the hammer if I'm rolling along in traffic. On Thursday I was riding home for a stretch of road and was throttling toggling between 59 and 61 kmh (human + electric assisted of course).
One of the things I love about the combination is that when I want to haul stuff it gets the job done with the paniers, but when I want performance, I just remove the paniers wear a backpack and ROLL. I also have a child seat that I've been meaning to get hooked up so that I can ride to the park with one of my kids.
Oh yeah, and regarding the car - it's the best darn car I ever owned. If you like the "feel" of how an electric bike rides, you'll go crazy over an electric car. GO ELECTRIC!
...btw - one comment I might take exception to is the recharging time on the Nickel charger. My understanding is that the charger runs through a charging process and it'll take the same amount of time for it to run through this process regardless of how much juice is left in your battery.
For me, with pretty much ZERO charge left in the nickel battery, it takes about 4 hours for a complete charge. If my understanding of the charger is correct it would take this same 4 hours even if I had only 1/2 charge left. That might be what you're seeing, Mr Miro?
My own personal thoughts on the Lithium vs the Nickel is that the Lithium seems to have a bit of an extra kick in it. I've been told this is because Lithium, in general, has a more even power curve than the nickel, but I could swear I actually go at least 2-3 mph faster with the Lithium regardless of the power curve situation. I believe this so much, that I ride on the Nickel first, and then switch over to Lithium just before I get to a stretch of road where I have to keep up with the cars.
thank you for your comments.
Of course we E+ owners want to keep this thread alive, you never know why you will need other owners experiences if not only to claim warranty with factory,
how do you say what behavour of your E+ is normal or not normal - ONLY COMPARING WITH OTHER OWNERS IF YOU CANNOT RIDE ANOTHER E+ !!!
I cannot test ride other E+ to compare no way, no dealers, maybe thousends kilometers away.
That is wht this thread is so precious to me.
I would love you write more about how your E+ behaves.
When you cruse fast above 25m/hour, above say 35km/hour, do you feel any kind of jerking from the motor?
When you apply throttle do you feel jerk?
I am hopeless, is it only my E + which behaves this way?
It is THE most expensive kit money can buy, should we not require from it?
Thank you in advance
I have about 1900 miles on mine now. My replacement display failed after a few days so I got yet another from them. The first replacement was refurbished, which is fine if it works. After about 50 miles when turning it on all of the display lit up like it does for a test and then stuck there with everything lit up.
I got a trailer set up to tow behind now and a better set up for my spare battery using a wheel skewer so I can remove it easier if I don't need it.
impressive how much cargo can you houl on your bike.
Hope you are skinny, not overweight for poor motor.
But seriously - mechanically they are sturdy and precision built like tanks, just like TF and appear they use exactely same Japanese double wall bearings.
Problem appears to be software which governs everthing from regen to stepping pulses from inverters , what happens I guess:
pulses start to misstep at higher speeds causing this shuttering/coging/jerking. If something like hardware , loose connection, mechanical like wrongly positioned sensors /hall sensors?/sensing position of rotor were wrong
why it will not feel at lower speeds on my E+???
Obviously it it is software not really sophisticated enough,
programmer time is very expensive and EMS would never offer us any better MORE REFINED software.
forgot about battery charge .
Yes, it appears ,
several times I only tested E+ for couple of miles using bearly one bar on indicator and everytime after that it charged for more than 2 hours. Last stage of charge is always balancing and if you ride 2 miles or 20 miles everytime charger goes through that lengtly stage. 30 Nickel cells in series in your hub is not 10 LiPolymer cells in series on your Lipo battery which you bought from EMS. Just imagine internal resistance of 30 cells comparing with just 10 cells. No wonder your E+ goes 3miles/hour faster.
It should go at lest 4miles/h faster by my estimate.
Unless there is some restriction built into software I would say my E+ would have no problem to maintain 50kilomters/hour continously with NO pedalling if powered with high quality , very low internal impedance Lithium Iron Phosphate cells /like A123 cells/ which are so much safer than LPolymer BTW.
can you tell me about how your E+ behaves?
Especially jerks on applying throttle, jerks on regen breaking, any cogging/jerking/shuttering at higers speeds???
Hi Miro -
Even at top speeds my eplus is very smooth. There's no jerking, or sputtering. It's just complete silence, and a smooth ride.
BTW - for the top speed I am 225 lbs rolling down the road at 61 kmh (human + electric) so this Big Dummy/eplus are really working well.
One other thing I forgot to note, is that I also had the crankset replaced so I can pedal more effectively at higher speeds without spinning out. So my changes include:
1) Alex Rims DX32 - result = ride is much more solid underneath of me especially on bumps. As a result I feel like I can ride faster on the roads without getting tossed around by the bumps.
2) eplus lithium battery - result = range is doubled (because I also have the stock Nickel battery), and I feel more comfortable about dropping the hammer on the roads without thinking twice about conserving energy. It also "feels" like the lithium has slightly better acceleration and top speed. Not by much (maybe 2-3 mph), however, it's enough to tell a difference and set a preference in my mind. I'll use the lithium (for speed and acceleration) when I know my ride is going to entail ROADS where I need to go fast as opposed to bike paths where I need ride like a normal biker.
3) new crankset with 53 teeth - result = slightly better experience pedaling at top speeds VERSUS the factory crankset.
There are a few times when I wish I had the Tidal Force. Those times are mainly when I think about wanting to throw my ebike in the back of the car for an out of town trip (finding a car rack for the Big Dummy has been a pain), or take it on the metro, or carry it up to my office instead of locking it up downstairs. Overall though the Big Dummy/eplus has been a great experience.
BTW - for how I use my Big Dummy/eplus, I ride it to work 15 miles each way, on many (not all) days. I've ridden it to work in 10 degree weather with ice patches here and there, and at 100 degrees. It saves about $200-300/month in parking and "fuel" for the car.
thank you for answers,
EMS changed smallest sproket on my rear wheel with 11-tooth sprocket, 23 is standard on 750W bkies.
Front sprocet is standard on my bike.
But there is no way I could reach even 55km/h leave alone 60km/h on flat, even on good downhill slope I cannot reach 60km/h on level9.
The most I get on flat is 52km/h only momentarly, it is hard to maintain 50km/h but I can do it with crazy peddaling.
I rearly ride in level 9 , beacuse at speeds over 35-40km/h my E+ develops like sputtering/jerking.
Tell me when you apply regen braking do you feel like clicking?
Have you ever ridden TF bike???1000W TF??
jerking/sputtering occurs on my E+ only after battery is used 15-20% when second bar on battery guage start to blink.Motor jerks horribly like lost power for 1 sec every 2-3-4 seconds.
Before that my E+ is smooth like yours.
Are you sure you don't have anything like this behavour?